HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Bomber_County - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - First Build

[Bomber_County]

So here we go, first ship, first wooden ship build wish me luck. 
 

Got to say from the get go, what a wonderful kit. The hull fitted together perfectly and the instructions were amazing. I did refer very briefly to the YouTube log quoted on the Vanguard site. Coming from the plastic modelling world, I wish all manufacturers would adopt Vanguards vision. 
 

This is how far I am along, the only slight problem I had was with the keel keys but spares were supplied. May I suggest add a few more on the sheet for prudence. Time to clean down the ship building area and look forward to the next session. 
 

Please if you see anything untoward or problematic issues I’ve built in, please feel free to flag them.

 

 

 

 

 

[Knocklouder]

Good luck on your journey,  you can't go wrong with Vanguard Models.  Check the logs for the Sherbourne, they will answer most of your questions,  and Vanguard Models  will answer all your questions . 

Happy New Year,  and best of luck .

Knocklouder 😁 

[chris watton]

1 hour ago, Bomber_County said:

the only slight problem I had was with the keel keys but spares were supplied. May I suggest add a few more on the sheet for prudence. Time to clean down the ship building area and look forward to the next session. 

Looking good!

 

I just checked the amount of 'Keys' on the 2mm MDF sheet, and there are a total of 8, with only 5 required, so you should have 3 extra

 

[Bomber_County]

3 hours ago, Knocklouder said:

Good luck on your journey,  you can't go wrong with Vanguard Models.  Check the logs for the Sherbourne, they will answer most of your questions,  and Vanguard Models  will answer all your questions . 

Happy New Year,  and best of luck .

Knocklouder 😁 

Thanks Bob and happy new year. I’m really enjoying the build and the kit stunning.

[Bomber_County]

3 hours ago, chris watton said:

Looking good!

 

I just checked the amount of 'Keys' on the 2mm MDF sheet, and there are a total of 8, with only 5 required, so you should have 3 extra

 

Thanks Chris, I was a little heavy handed 🫤 with three of the keys so just had enough with the spares. A couple more spare’s maybe help some people. 
Stunning kit and the instructions are brilliant.

[Danny_CZ]

You will catch up to me in no time, you can learn from my mistakes as well. The instructions are good but here is what I would add on top of instructions that is next few steps:

 

1. sand the stern frames before you put them on

2. make sure the false deck is glued flat where the companion way gonna sit

3. bevel stern counter and transom

4. really sand down the stern area of false keel as later it will have 2 layers of planks which need to be the same thickness as the fully assembled keel

5. with the keel parts on, dry fit the outer keel patterns as well and mark where they outline as this is where your second layer of planking need to slot into (I am now fixing my Sherbourne so it does fit).

 

 

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

Danny

[Bomber_County]

9 hours ago, Danny_CZ said:

You will catch up to me in no time, you can learn from my mistakes as well. The instructions are good but here is what I would add on top of instructions that is next few steps:

 

1. sand the stern frames before you put them on

2. make sure the false deck is glued flat where the companion way gonna sit

3. bevel stern counter and transom

4. really sand down the stern area of false keel as later it will have 2 layers of planks which need to be the same thickness as the fully assembled keel

5. with the keel parts on, dry fit the outer keel patterns as well and mark where they outline as this is where your second layer of planking need to slot into (I am now fixing my Sherbourne so it does fit).

 

 

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

Danny

Thanks Danny, I’ll have a gander and good to have a heads on some aspects. Having both shipbuilding and my plastic modelling it’s going to be a spilt between them, it will also allow PVA to set. Also with this bitter weather the garage is too cold to do any bulkhead sanding ready for first planking.

[James H]

12 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Thanks Chris, I was a little heavy handed 🫤 with three of the keys so just had enough with the spares. A couple more spare’s maybe help some people. 
Stunning kit and the instructions are brilliant.

 

If you ever lose any pegs, just cut them from the sheet yourself? That's what I inevitably do if I lose any while building the prototypes. 

[ruifac]

I just built a Sherbourne myself and it is a great first ship build for sure. The instructions are very detailed and materials very well design to help the beguinner from the start.

 

Just don't rush, enjoy the process and you will be fine 🙂

[0gri]

Best of British for your build,love the nickname,Per ardua ad astra

[Bomber_County]

4 hours ago, James H said:

 

If you ever lose any pegs, just cut them from the sheet yourself? That's what I inevitably do if I lose any while building the prototypes. 

That was my first thought when putting the last one in. I’m a real magpie in storing left over plastic and now timber for just an event or a bit of scratch building.

[Bomber_County]

3 hours ago, ruifac said:

I just built a Sherbourne myself and it is a great first ship build for sure. The instructions are very detailed and materials very well design to help the beguinner from the start.

 

Just don't rush, enjoy the process and you will be fine 🙂

Enjoying it tremendously. Having my other modelling activities it is good to alternate, it also gives time for adhesives or paint to set.

[Bomber_County]

3 hours ago, 0gri said:

Best of British for your build,love the nickname,Per ardua ad astra

Thought someone would see that. 
 

I was born in the centre of 3 Group operations, my grandfather even supplied bread to a number of airfields. My school was on an airfield perimeter. In Lincolnshire there were something around 42 airfields, all active, so hence bomber county. Also over 55,000 member lost their lives, so to those heroes……

[Bomber_County]

Just thinking ahead here, the lower part of the hull is to be painted white / off white. Thinking about authenticity a number of completed log pictures I have seen almost eradicate the planking lines of that part of the hull. In reality albeit with no actual pictures etc surely a witness of the planking would be in evidence.

 

Pulling from weathering aircraft and AFV’s, many of the substructures are normally / partially visible.

 

In full size shipbuilding what would the lower plankings be coated in?

 

Probably showing my inexperience here so please correct me. 

 

 

 

 

[Danny_CZ]

It depends on what you want:

Is it historical accuracy (difficult as we really don't know for sure and many things changed over years) or model like replica what you like (whatever you desire, be it no paint to shiny finish or matt, whatever you like)

My personal opinion is do it so as much of natural wood is visible which means I will probably not paint the hull white at all an go for possibly just few red gunports and ochre yellow on bulwarks and black outline various parts of ship.

As for weathering - yes it can be good, but then I feel it should be weathered everywhere which I feel can take away from the model. On contrary you can make a model which would be made as actual model before they build the actual ship, which would naturally be not weathered.

We have ideas how things should be and we have three options:

1. "pre-build" model (it was required before they made the actual ship)
2. replica of real ship
3. something that is reasonably accurate yet pleasing to the eye

Hope this helps and take everything with grain of salt as I am no expert by any means, just somebody who came from plastic modelling and observed a lot of builds and read lot of opinions

Danny
 

[palmerit]

1 hour ago, Bomber_County said:

a number of completed log pictures I have seen almost eradicate the planking lines of that part of the hull

For some of us, that was out of necessity 🙂 

 

Sherbourne was my first model with real planking and that first attempt was absolute garbage. 1/2 strip planks, 1/2 wood filler with tons of sanding. Lots of coats of paint just to hide my sins. 

Edited Saturday at 07:13 PM by palmerit

[Bomber_County]

16 hours ago, Danny_CZ said:

It depends on what you want:

Is it historical accuracy (difficult as we really don't know for sure and many things changed over years) or model like replica what you like (whatever you desire, be it no paint to shiny finish or matt, whatever you like)

My personal opinion is do it so as much of natural wood is visible which means I will probably not paint the hull white at all an go for possibly just few red gunports and ochre yellow on bulwarks and black outline various parts of ship.

As for weathering - yes it can be good, but then I feel it should be weathered everywhere which I feel can take away from the model. On contrary you can make a model which would be made as actual model before they build the actual ship, which would naturally be not weathered.

We have ideas how things should be and we have three options:

1. "pre-build" model (it was required before they made the actual ship)
2. replica of real ship
3. something that is reasonably accurate yet pleasing to the eye

Hope this helps and take everything with grain of salt as I am no expert by any means, just somebody who came from plastic modelling and observed a lot of builds and read lot of opinions

Danny
 

Thanks Danny, some food for thought.

[Bomber_County]

15 hours ago, palmerit said:

For some of us, that was out of necessity 🙂 

 

Sherbourne was my first model with real planking and that first attempt was absolute garbage. 1/2 strip planks, 1/2 wood filler with tons of sanding. Lots of coats of paint just to hide my sins. 

I will probably be in that situation soon. In my mind some semblance of timber planking ought to be visible. I’ll update you when I get the second planking on.

[Bomber_County]

Quick update, getting close first planking………