Byrnes Rope Walk

[Ulises Victoria]

Meredith... yes... I am very happy with my machine also. I think my failure in making thicker ropes starting with thin threads was because I tried to make A BIG LOT of single stranded per spool rope, and I just got tired of it and didn't keep my attention into making perfect rope. I see that less is better . I will keep experimenting with this using smaller batches. In the meantime, I am very happy with my results using several strands of threads per spool.

[Meredith]

I tend to hand wrap my spools - at the experimental stage - mostly only 50 wraps - until I am satisfied and want to make a bulk lot of a particular thread up. So I did 100 wraps on the spool - but nothing more yet - easy to keep focussed at 50 wraps

[BANYAN]

I tend to hand wrap my spools - at the experimental stage - mostly only 50 wraps - until I am satisfied and want to make a bulk lot of a particular thread up. So I did 100 wraps on the spool - but nothing more yet - easy to keep focussed at 50 wraps

Hand wrap????  Meredith you are a glutton for punishment.  I hope to get back to some rope making very soon .

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Meredith]

I used the drill first time around - but with 50 wraps - it takes moments by hand - not a chore at all! And I can control how tight/loose the thread is wrapped.  For small experiements with 40 or 50 wraps - its quicker by hand

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Meredith and Ulises,

 

I have spent the last several days creating an inventory of all of the rope I will need for the 3/16" scale Bellona 74. Then I can join you in experimenting with how to create a LH or RH rope of a given diameter, and know how big of an inventory I will need to create of each size. You keep me inspired at the possibilities of Jim's machine.

 

Mark

[SJSoane]

Hi everyone,

 

More experiments. I am showing DMC cotton size 50 on the left, and linen on the right. The linen does not lay up nearly as well as the cotton.

 

Interestingly, I made the linen with 3 strands on each supply bobbin right hand (CW on the ropewalk), and it looked better than another I made CWW which was moe uneven and lumpy. But when I tried CW on one strand on each bobbin, it failed altogether. The strands unwound, then wrapped up in strange ways and broke. I wonder why it works so much better with multiple strands.

 

I don't see a pattern yet in how many strands make how large a rope.

The linen is .010 off the spool; laid up 6 strands it makes a rope .28 in diameter; and laid up 9 strands it is .035. I need to do more experiments to see a pattern.

 

Does someone know of a supplier of DMC egyptian cotton in the US in various sizes?

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

 

[fnkershner]

Well yesterday was out first local club meeting since we recieved our Rope Walk. We spent lots of time tinkering. The most notable discovery is how hard it is the see the lay of the result. You need a macro lens or magnifying hood. To get a better handle on it I took one of the supply spools and changed the color. This made a world of difference. It was much easier to see if you had the right tension or not. I also discoverd another extreme way to determine the correct tension - if the winding is occuring inside the appeture of the Die stand you have the take up tension correct. If you have the motor turning to quickly you will find the join getting closer to the spools. Also with a macro lens I found that the die was too large.

 

Mark - I like the lay of the rope in your pictures. Can you tell me what size die you used for these? So far all I have used is the pre drilled die that came with the machine.

 

Can someone explain the value or purpose of being able to turn the large knurled knob on the Left side of the supply wheel? As mentioned above I have used a belt to make it stationary. By the way it is not necessary to buy another belt. If you bought an extra set of belts from Jim you will find that the largest belt works well to hold this wheel still.

[BANYAN]

Hi Floyd,

 

Mate, agree the difficulty of seeing the lay-up point especially with lighter coloured thread; with black thread I find I can see the form-up point easier against the polished aluminium but cannot see how well it is laying up.  I have a couple of coloured bits of card (flat finish) I have cut to width and bent into 'U' shapes to place in the top of the channel between the two holes to enable me to see the lay-up point a little more easily.  This is one area I think Jim could make an enhancement    Perhaps adding a magnifying glass with a articulating arm (from a third hand?) may assist.  I have one of those ring lights around a larger magnifying lens type desk-light I have recently started using so I will experiment with that also.

 

I am assuming you are referring to the friction wheel and not the centre/core line spool feeder.  The idea with the friction wheel is to let the motor and larger diameter whorl plate spin up to speed forming a basic twist in the feed threads before applying friction (by holding it still).  At that point the whorl spools themselvs start to spin and lay up the rope.  If you hold it still from the get-go you may be applying too much pressure to the lines and the motor?  I think Jim may be best placed to answer this though.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Floyd,

 

The die size makes a big difference and is a challenge to thread tightly. I have drilled a .025" and .035" to add to the .04" that came. I struggle to get all threads through when it is 6 or 9 threads. I tried supergluing the group in order to thread it all through, but that is larger than the combined threads by far. I suspect that I am still using too large a die opening, mainly because of the threading issue. Anyone have good ideas about how to thread it when it is tight?

 

I haven't figured out why I would ever let go of the large knob. letting it spin a bit doesn't do anything for adjusting while making rope. Still much to learn!

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[BANYAN]

Hi Mark, according to Jim the freewheeling is only until the motor and whorls come up to speed; from that point on it should be held stopped while making rope.

 

WRT to the die; after much similar frustration I stummbled on a 'trick' which is to get two of the threads through (reasonably easy), then wet the area behind the die on the feed side (I use spit ) and lay/place the damp end of the third at that spot (the damp holds the third end in place and pull it through with the other two.  Works for me

 

cheers

 

Pat

[GLakie]

I'm wondering after seeing no posts here in 2 years, if anyone has figured out the problem with the belts stretching and causing uneven or lumpy rope. I had a thought the other day about it, and wondered if removing the belts, when not in use, might solve that problem, or if there was another fix.

[BANYAN]

Hi, I have given up with trying to preserve those horrid belts which I think are the main cause of many of the issues experienced.  I am currently in the process of trying to find better belts or even converting to timing or V belts but that will entail new pulleys to suit.

 

cheers

 

Pat