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Anyone else seen these cool weathering pigments? (Moved by moderator)


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It's the same as the Tamiya, with the exception of thier (Tamiya's) weathering sticks - meaning they don't have glue and you don't need glue unless going for a specific look. As a build up of dust, soot (from guns, etc.), or dirt I just put the pastels on with a brush. When I do armor kits, I mix the pastels in with white glue to replicate mud. Rust can be very easily copied with pastels - I get the proper color and mix it with a bit of water and use a brush (the smaller, the better) and apply it that way. Sometimes mulitple applications are needed, but it works great. I will try to post a pic of my Tiger tank later if I can remember. Of course, if you don't seal it, then be careful of how you touch it - and as we all know, sealing changes the color and original look. That's why I apply it last most times.

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have just purchased some products from http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/mig-pigments/ and some flory, http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes washes, as i intend to weather my 1/200 Bismarck, like everything else i have purchased extra to this kit, i have no idea how to use, but will show my progress as the build progresses

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  • 2 months later...

There are many ways to approach weathering...... Typically I will work all of the finish coats of a painted subject in something solvent based. This way I can go back over later with washes or highlighting in water based paints.... As for using the pastel chalks, which I love, they need something to grab, so a good coat of 'flat' airbrushed on, then use the ground pastel chalks. As has been noted, you can use the ground pastel chalk mixed into a medium...be it paint or thinned glue to create much heavier textures....this can be used for built up mud, rust, algae, etc.....

 

You must be delicate when sealing these with the final spray of gloss or semi-gloss as it tends to 'mute' the effect somewhat.....experiment and you will soon develop a technique that you like. A local craft or art store usually has the large box selection with a broad range of colors for a reasonable price, and the chalk sticks will last a very long time if only used as weathering agents !

Edited by JPZ66

Joe Zappa

 

Member, Nautical Research Guild & Puget Sound Ship Modelers

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JPZ66,

 

Can you post any images of your weathering work please?

 

Mike.

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build.

HMS Triton cross section 1:32.

Shelved awaiting improved skills:

Chuck"s Cheerful.

Current build.

Tender Avos.

HM cutter Alert.

 

 

:

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M,

 

Sadly, I have no pictures at the moment and all of my modeling projects, tools and supplies are packed away. I will see if I can find some older photos and post...

 

Once I get moved and all set up in the new shop, I will definately revisit this topic with new photos for posting here.

 

 

- Joe

Joe Zappa

 

Member, Nautical Research Guild & Puget Sound Ship Modelers

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Thank Joe. I look forward to seeing your pictures in due course.

 

Mike.

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build.

HMS Triton cross section 1:32.

Shelved awaiting improved skills:

Chuck"s Cheerful.

Current build.

Tender Avos.

HM cutter Alert.

 

 

:

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Hi all...

 

in my "plastic era" I used to weather the models with the color pigments of Artitec. It always worked out extremley good. Artitec is a dutch manufacturer of resin models with really nice modell ships mostly in the popular modeltrain-scale 1:87 / H0.

 

http://www.artitec.nl/index.php/de/bausaetze/category/h0-ships

 

Cheerio

 

Max

Next: Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde by Euro Model 1:47

 

Finished: Half Moon Corel;  HMY Royal Caroline Panart; HMB Endeavour Occre 1:54; Fregatte Berlin, Corel, 1:40

 

 

A life without dogs is possible... but worth to live?

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