HMS Victory by Glenn-UK - Caldercraft - 1/72

[Glenn-UK]

Yesterday with another day looking after the grandkids so only managed an 1 hour build time, hope to spend more time working on ship today.

 

I estimate I'm about halfway through the first planking, and hopefully should be getting the near the end by next weekend.

 

It's not my finest piece of work but given its primary function to provide a firm base for the 2nd planking I'm not too worried, and as has been said by others, no one can see the imperfections, use of wood fill, etc. On the positive side I've have learnt a lot from this task and now I'm actually enjoying the repetitive nature of this task.

 

Stern end to date

 

Picture taking of starboard side, I have moved away from but joint and mid point, and I'm now shaping and joining near the bow end

 

Port side - You will note I have an area to fill, the gap at the widest will take two planks, and it is quiet an easy infill

 

Bow end to date

Edited February 2, 2014 by Glennard

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Glenn,

 

Looks like you're doing just fine and you're absolutely correct, this first planking is to give you the correct hull shape and form a foundation for the second planking which needs to be perfectly smooth.  Wood filler and sanding, sanding, sanding are your friends once you've finished the first planking.  Take your time, get it right, and your second planking will go on beautifully.

 

Patrick

[Glenn-UK]

Had a good evening working on the ship tonight and finished the first planking, except for two very small filler bits; now comes many hours of sanding and filling to get a really smooth surface ready for 2nd planking.

 

As I got about 10 planks from keelson I found it better to start working back up from keelson.

 

Starboard side, you can see the very small gap near stern by blue pin to be filled.

 

Port side, small filler piece needed near clamp at stern.

 

Bow, you can see I have put a bit of filler on the port side already.

 

Stern

 

I have enjoyed this task which has taken two weeks to complete, but I'm glad its time to move on from gluing and pinning the planks. Not sure when I will be able to start the sanding as I have a busy weekend with family, but will hopefully get a couple of hours ship time, fingers crossed.

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn.

 

Congratulations on getting your first planking done; it looks great.  Have you decided what you are going to do in order to not have any pin holes in the upper second planking?  I for one didn't use any pins but did the entire upper  second planking with CA cement and did not have any problems.  I did use pins where the planking was destined to be covered with copper.  Keep it up; you have come along beautifully.  Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

I've not really thought too much about the 2nd planking. I was not intending to use pins above the copper. I was thinking maybe using map pins to hold the 2nd planking in place with the pin only going in to the 1st planking and using the map pin edge for added support. I will probably use a mixture of ca and super phalic glue.

[Glenn-UK]

I have been able to get into workshop today to start the sanding and filling of 1st plank. Due to number of photos, will split over two posts.

 

HMS Victory in front of the map of the world waiting for the first sanding to commence.

 

Thanks to a tip from Shipyard Sid I glued a strip taken from circular sander course disk to a small block of wood- worked a treat - thanks Dave.

 

Removed excess ready for stern keelson, to be fitted after 2nd planking.

 

Sanding at stern

 

Sanding at bow

 

 

Sanding at amidships

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn..

 

You're definitely on your way.. The second planking is going to be a lark compared to the first.  You now have a neat base to apply the second planking strips and before you know it you'll be counting copper plates.  You seem to be working quickly considering the time schedule you mentioned.  It's hard to keep out of the shipyard once you see the results taking place.  I'll be looking for additional progress as I'm interested to watch you do what many of us have already done. Good luck,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

After the first sanding I used plenty of filler in key areas so I can get a nice smooth shape once I complete the sanding process.

 

After some initial sanding decided I need to add some filler for bow gun port strips as can be seen from this photo.

 

Added plenty filler for bow gun port strips, excess can be removed when sanded smooth.

 

Bow needs plenty of filler as there are a few areas which needed building up, again plenty of filler added so I can sand smooth and true.

 

Amidships filler added

 

Stern filler added

[ZyXuz]

nice start Glenn.

after more sanding the filler, your 2nd planking shouldn't have much problem.

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Glenn

Were is your ship????? Is it behind the filler ???????. Or is it snowing in Scarborough ??? Good luck with your second planking. One thing I did find is that CA does not like filler a lot. Keep up the good work and take your time, as we hear a lot it's not a race! You have a couple of years to go. Enjoy it .. DAVID

Edited February 8, 2014 by Shipyard sid

[Glenn-UK]

Hello

I take Dave's point, the idea of using plenty of filler is that when sanded away it should only be retained in the key areas.

 

I have being able to do some more sanding, and also getting stern down to 3mm depth at edge of beading line.

 

Stern

 

Amidships

 

Bow

[Shipyard sid]

Hello again Glenn

A bit of early advice. I know it is a bit early but take care when you fit the second planking, you get the vertical area of the stern were the stern post links on to ( part 58 ) nice and flat and not concaved or the sternpost will not fit flush up, and you will end up with a gap between the two. It is easily done when concentrating on the planking itself . DAVID

[muggebigge]

[muggebigge]

Dont forgett to fit the stern fashia before second planking.You can see in my picture the second layer ends upp there,Hope you understand what i mean

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Muggebigge

Many thanks for your picture. I was aware I needed to fit the quarter gallery parts before the start of the second planking and I also plan to plank the deck area as per the instructions in the manual. I will also be dry fitting the keelson and stern post to made sure everything is straight and gap free.

 

When I do start the second planking I will follow the lead of David and Patrick and plank down to water line and then plank up from keel to water line, as I do like the look of this and I think will also help when the copper tiles are ready to be fitted.

[Glenn-UK]

Moved on to quarter gallery dry assembly last night, as thought this was going to be a relatively simple job, maybe a bit fiddly, but I was going to take my time to get the key components correctly positioned before gluing.

 

Seems this going to be a bit more problematic that I first expected.

 

When I offered up the stern fascia inner skin (374) I noticed the outer stern extensions were showing in the upper outer window frames. I thought I would have to do some hard filing to make sure the windows were clear, not great but workable.

 

After the first dry fit I then noticed the quarter gallery pattern tab would not fit in the stern fascia inner skin (374) slots. On further investigation I finally noticed that both the outer stern extensions were warped at the top. This must have happened as the glue dried when the gun port strip was added.

 

To overcome this I have made some filler blocks which helps maintain the correct spacing, see photo below. They are not glued in, so when the stern fascia inner skin (374) is finally fitted in position they can be removed before strips 371 an 372 are glued in position. Its not ideal, but I think it will now be OK.

 

Top view showing the warp

End view

 

Secondly I noticed the instructions for the fitting of top quarter gallery pattern (215) and main quarter gallery inside pattern (373) is not 100% correct. The instructions state  top quarter gallery pattern (215) tabs should locate in the slots on gun port strip (270) and also in the top slots of the main quarter gallery inside pattern (373).

 

This is clearly not possible due to the depth of the tabs on top quarter gallery pattern (215). I will use the slots on gun port strip (270) as a guide for positioning main quarter gallery inside pattern (373).

 

Hopefully tonight I will now be in a position to dry fit stern fascia inner skin (374) and main quarter gallery inside patterns (373).

 

[Glenn-UK]

Happy to report after leaving the packing pieces in for over 24 hours, I have been able to finally fit stern fascia panel without any windows obstructed by the stern extensions.

 

Checked position of the inside patterns and upper and lower stern counters, all looks good.

 

Night out tomorrow so will probably fit the inside patterns on Thursday / Friday.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Continued working on the quarter gallery assembly tonight, found this to be quite an easy assembly, and didn't break the corners off the stern fascia panel - result.

Here are some pictures, enjoy.

 

Starboard side

 

Port side, part 215 added

 

Port side, part 216 added

 

Port side, part 217 added

 

Port side, part 218 & 219 added

 

Whilst quarter gallery glue is drying I started looking at middle deck planking. Decided to use a 4 butt pattern for this deck, not sure if it is really necessary, but I think its better to start as I mean to go on.

 

Centre line added

Initial dry placement of first 85mm strips

Edited February 13, 2014 by Glennard

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn...Nice shots of your progress.  I have a suggestion you may want to consider regardingthe deck planking.  I used a magic marker with a soft fabric tip to line one edge and one end of each plank.  You do this by lightly running the marker along the edge or side making sure not to get any ink on any of the large surface.  This will result in a very nice deck that appears to have been caulked.  I have enclosed a picture of how it looks on my boat.  I hope you don't mind me sticking my 2 cents in but I think you'll be happier with a deck that looks caulked..

jerry

Edited February 13, 2014 by Jerry

[Shipyard sid]

Hello Glenn

Yep things are really moving on , and things are looking very good. You are correct there's no need to use the four butt shift, as none of the deck at all is visible, but it is good practice. Keep up the good work and enjoy it. DAVID

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

As far as I can tell opinion seems to be divided, I did experiment with using a pencil to blackened edges and I also tried using black thread between planks on some test pieces last year. The pencil gave the best result. Others have advised against adding caulking effects. I think it's a matter of personal preference and I'm still undecided.

[Jerry]

Well, you may want to try it on this deck because, as David pointed out, this deck will never be seen.  Check out my pic again...I used magic marker which you haven't tried yet.  of course, as you mentioned, you may not want to do any of this.  Have a good night in merry old....

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

Your deck planking looks very nice, and I can appreciate your caulking effect does looks good. You make a very good point, food for thought.

[Glenn-UK]

Quick update, without pictures. Stern counter upper edge bevelled and then glued in place and held with clamps. Will check in morning that it has stuck properly. Also planked middle gun deck, using 4 shift butt pattern, didn't need to use this method but wanted to try it out large scale before I tackle the other decks.

 

Only side entry ports still left to plank. I didn't add any caulking effects due to location of this planking and still not sure which way I want to go when I start to plank the other decks.

 

Very limited time over weekend day looking after grandkids and the I also have to get up all the carpets and laminate flooring from upstairs  and then paint the skirting boards because we are having new carpets fitted first thing Monday morning.

[Glenn-UK]

No access to workshop area, but can add some pictures from last night.

 

Upper stern counter fitted and clamped

 

Start of middle deck planking

 

Middle deck planking completed, exception side entry ports

 

Stern counter once glue dry and clamps removed

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn.

 

You are making very speedy progress and your work is to be commended.  I do have one comment, however.  You apparently chose not to do a 4 butt process on the deck and of course that's your choice.  I see that you did a 5 butt deck lay.  I was just wondering what made you change your mind.  Also, I hope you decided to use some type of caulking as, with the risk of being too critical, will make your deck look more dimensional.  I know you may be unhappy with my friendly critism but I feel the deck a you have done it looks a bit too plain.  You have my picture above; it is a true 4 butt pattern with a caulking simulated with the use of a magic marker.  But as I said the choice is yours.  I hope you won't find me too critical but I can only tell you how I feel.  Take care.

Jerry

[Rich.F]

Looking great, I have only just been allowed to open mine and make a very slow start, Ie open the box i have only had it for a 4months,, oh well.

 

But you have a fantastic start

 

Rich

[Patrick Haw]

Glenn,

 

You're doing great and your planking looks great.  Caulking is a matter of taste and I went without marking any caulking on my Victory and I'm happy with it. My personal preference.  It's your ship, you get to decide what works for you.

 

Just to clear up any misunderstanding, what you have with your deck planking is actually a perfect four butt shift system, done according to Page 10 of the instruction manual.  A four butt shift means that the end of every fifth plank is aligned athwartships, separated by a four plank shift.  So you have: plank end - plank - plank - plank - plank - plank end.  The picture that Jerry sent you shows that he actually used a three butt shift system for his decks, but as everyone here says, every builder gets to decide what works for them and I don't think Jerry's choice of a three butt system takes anything away from his build.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Patrick

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

I believe I have fitted the middle deck using the 4 butt shift pattern. The first plank is set at 0mm and each full length plank fitted measures 85mm long. Each subsequent plank is then offset by 34mm. Thus the 2nd plank starts at 34mm, the 3rd plank starts at 68mm, the 4th plank starts at 102mm (or 17mm) and the 5th plank starts at 136mm (or 51mm). This means the 6th plank restarts the sequence at 0mm (136mm + 34mm = 170mm = 2 x 85 mm), QED.

 

This means there are 4 planks between each 0mm reference point. I have checked my planking and it does conform to the above description. I decided not to bother adding caulking effects to this planking layer as it is pretty much hidden from view, I just wanted to try the 4 butt shift pattern out on a large test area where the end result would not matter too much if I made  a complete hash of it. I have tried many different methods to simulate caulking and if I do decide to go down that route then the method I have liked the best is the use of  a HB pencil down 1 edge of each join.

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Patrick, I must admit I did begin to wonder if I had made a mistake but  you have confirmed what I had also rechecked, Many thanks; 3 or 4 butt shift patterns are most common and I agree build to what feels right to you.

Edited February 15, 2014 by Glennard