what is the best way to produce realistic water and waves

[shipworker]

I just completed the Revell kit USS Constitution 1:96 scale. What a fun build that was! I built it under full sail and thought that a dry dock case wouldn't look good. so what can I use to make it  look realistic?  And is it fairly easy to do on a large scale?   thanks for the help!

[S.Coleman]

I don't think you can get much closer than " realistic water" can you! Might have to have a peep at my local store some. Thanks

[Mahuna]

There are some limitations with this product that you should be aware of.  I used it to form a 'pond' for a bird carving I created, and found that:

 

1.  If the product is used to form a layer more than 1/4" deep, it shrinks and cracks when curing.  My 'pond' wound up concave rather than flat.

2.  It reacts to some metals.  I used steel wool to simulate underwater plant life, and after several days the 'water' turned milky white.

 

Neither of these should be issues for a ship model diorama if you're only using a thin coating over a neutral base.

 

Frank

[druxey]

There are excellent methods described by Justin Camerata in his book: see the SeaWatch Books website.

[guillemot]

My solution, on my Scottish Maid was to use a sheet of Lime - Basswood on t'other side of the pond - gesso it and get stuck in with artists' Acrylics.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3255-sottish-maid-by-fraser-halls-1839-clipper-schooner-18th-scale/page-4

On smaller models I've used both Milliput and also Plasticene - which is surprisingly permanent.

[jbelwood]

Beware using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. A close model railroading friend used this product covering a

2' x 4' harbor scene. Within 15 minutes of placing three beautiful waterline boats on top of the "water" they were

permanently stuck in place. The product does not cure to a rock hard finish.

 

John Elwood

[wefalck]

The cheapest and probably most permanent (after carving the sea from wood) is the use of plaster of Paris mixed with some wallpaper glue. Apply it in several layers to build up waves. The piece then can be sealed with woodfiller before being painted using e.g. acrylics. Breaking crests etc. can be modelled using a mixture of sugar(!) and acrylic gel or thick wallpaper glue. Finally glossy acrylic varnish is applied where the water would be shiny or acrylic gel is dabbed on where the water is disturbed e.g. by a gust of wind.

[Louie da fly]

There was also a very worthwhile discussion of this subject in an earlier thread at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3952-dioramas-water-related-photos-hints-tips-and-videos/ . Might be of help.