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Greek Galiot by Robert V802 - Amati


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You picked a model that will give you some interesting moments.  I built this model years ago when I still had a full head of hair.  But I will be glad to give you any advise you need if my feeble memory can remember. 

David B

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Question - With a bluff bow, how does one stop the clinker hull effect ?  After 5 planks down from the deck, the problem is here.  I have noticed on some bluff bow models it appears that 5 or 6 planks are almost horizontal from the deck down and then it appears that remainder of the planks go from the keel up and run almost vertical at the bow. Will this help ?

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This is one of the interesting parts.  The planks are straight run for the top ones.  What I did was literally make card templates for the rest.  Since there are no stealers you will have to bend and shape every plank to fit.  It will take some practice but if you like the end result you did it right. Check out the English Long Boat Logs and they will give you a good idea of what I am describing.

David B.

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Hi Robert. I wish you to have a nice journey making this model.

See the drawing from the book "Planking model ships" by Richard Mansir, to see how the planks should be in 

sequence...This is what I meant, when I wrote you for  "some cuts close to the edges".

I suggest to follow David's method with card templates.

Thanks

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Robert one of the rules in planking is the type or design of a hull. If you can get a copy of Monfeldt's book on ship modeling he can show you the different ways it was done depending on the area and time. Many of the mediterranean vessels were built without stealers. They were built with the hull planking first and the frame and supports were put in later. In Europe it was frame first then the planking was added. This is the reason for the straight run of planking. If my memory is correct your kit is single planked. I wish I could find the photos I took all those years ago to show what I am talking about. That is why I suggested going to look at the English Longboats. To further your research Google galleys and check out the results. The end result will be your choice and what you are happy and satisfied with. Satisfaction and enjoyment in your work is the greatest and most important rule of all. If you are having a good time that is all that counts.

David B

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a whole day alone yesterday to work, talk about luck ! Bulwarks are done but I have a couple of questions.

 

First, are the red inner bulwarks continued right up to the bowsprit or do they stop at the front bulkhead ? I can not tell from the pics.

 

Second, did you use the precut plywood railing atop the bulwarks or scratch it.  My curve at the top of the bulwark seems a little too curvy and the plywood to stiff.  Can one soak ply like solid wood ?

 

Third, those "clamps" that go from the top rail to the wale - how does one go about setting up the spacing so it all fits.  Instructions show these clamps installed in step "V" but the top rail in put on in step "F"  Any ideas ?

 

Anyway - here are some new pics:

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Hi Robert. Sorry but it's been a long time ago that I built the model and  I haven't kept the manual neither the model... 
But just now I remembered a friend of mine that he had built the same model and he had post photos of her construction in another forum (I think here as well but in MSW 1.0)
Take a look at his photos in the below link and I hope you find some answers.
Edited by Thanasis
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If memory serves me correctly i used red all the way to the bow.  You are doing well.  Be careful when you start buiding up the bow some of those shapes can be confusing.

David B

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