Swift by adivedog - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - First build

[adivedog]

Thanks a lot Keith,  that's a great compliment, I appreciate it.

 

Am starting on the bulkheads and have found I need to do a little sanding and fitting so it will fit right. didn't realize I'd have to sand off some of the aft deck and some of the sides of the deck.

 

I  just put some pva on the aft section of the bulwark, then will try to set the rest.  The main thing now is to cut the bow section so it's right.

[themadchemist]

One suggestion was given, which am glad I did, from IIRC CaptHarv, was to replace the kits plywood bulwarks with solid sheet basswood. I did so and found them to take shape better, as the ply was old and brittle (remember I was doing the old kit).  Plywood by design is less flexible though. 

 

I found the solid 3" by 2' sheets at hobby lobby for $2 (I actually grabbed several thicknesses, as you can never have too much wood on hand, IIRC the bulwarks are 1/16" though) also hobby lobby has where you can sign up for 40% coupon, which you can use on your phone (worth doing as it get's you 40% off on your highest item and I think can be used once per day. They cut easily with an exacto and I just used the kit piece to trace them.

 

After shaping they only required tape to secure them, I used some of the OR rubber bands with hooks to hold them upright as their PVA dried. Shaping required a bit more securing ( I saw you looked at my log and thanks for the likes, I always take lots of clamping and restraining pics as I find it to be quite the task at times) After gluing and making sure the stern is aligned, then cut your stem end a bit over. You can fine tune its length by taping the second side on and testing their fit at the stem. then cut them to fit against each other symmetrically. An easy way to get that line for cutting the first is by running a piece of masking tape down the center of the keel line up onto the bulwarks and use that as a guide for marking, that is once the first ones glued in.

I feared this task worse then planking because of that cut, but by biggest asset was having well shaped bulwarks, I'd highly recommend the solid sheet.

[adivedog]

Keith, I already have some basswood sheets I got at Menards. I have been thinking about trying that. Won't be working on it until tomorrow, so will see then.

Will probably cut one out to see how that goes ?   I was able to shape the ones with the kit, but think they would be difficult to cut at the bow. I also made a template of the bow with a piece of the basswood,  that will fit at the bow to mark the mid line. I'll attach a picture tomorrow morning. Haven't tried it yet, was waiting for the glue dry.

[adivedog]

I did wind up having to cut new bulwarks out of basswood.  I got in a hurry  the other morning, didn't double check every thing and misscut the bow on the bulwark.

 

Now have both bulwarks done.

 

 

Test fit of the larboard bulwark

 

 

 

While waiting for the glue to dry I noticed the hull planking on the inside of the lower decks needed to be stained.

 

 

I think I'm going to plank the inside and outside of the bulwarks next. Then do the transom and lower transom.

[themadchemist]

I like that colour of deck stain, and your right, it kinda gives it that working vessel feel. I don't know if I'd change it. Are you considering going for the weather detail look or thinking about it?

There are some great modelers that have some great techniques here on MSW if your think about going that way. I'm sure any would field questions.
 
Just take a look at Franks HMAT Supply encrusted with barnicles
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/133-hmat-supply-by-riverboat-jotikacaldercraft-164th-scale/page-2?hl=+hmat +supply

or Matti's staining paint effects on his Vasa
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1815-wasan-1628-by-nazgul-billing-boats-vasa-175/

 

That first picture really show off her curves. The beauty of a shear line. Nicely done my friend.

[adivedog]

Thanks Keith,  I'm leaning toward just leaving as is.  First, I do like the color of the stain, just didn't like where the stain absorbed in a few places and made it too dark, two, I don't really want to redo the whole deck. Since this is my first build, figure it's all part of the learning experience.

 

[HIPEXEC]

Nice work. It looks very familiar to me since it was my forst build. Keep up the good work

[russ]

John:

I would leave the deck as is. It has character.

 

Russ

[themadchemist]

John

From the locations of the discoloring I wonder if it was adhesive related as it seems to be near edges. The color is perfect though and the staining makes it look weathered to me. I like it.

 

The bigger question is, do you like it. If so I'd leave it. Wood has natural variation and stains in spots. If you consider that water runoff is directed to the middle and out to the scuppers, all water from the bow would run towards the front deckhouse wall, pool, then run out and around the sides, So to me it looks like the places of the weathered look are in places to be expected. Also realize much of the deck will be broken up with deck fixtures in place and the effect will lessen as she progresses.

 

Either way, I vote leave it, as I think it gives character.

[adivedog]

Thanks Rich

 

Russ, I decided to leave the deck as is.   I want it to look like the work boat it was, not just a wall flower   Thanks for checking back

 

Keith, could be. 

[adivedog]

I finished planking the bulwarks yesterday. Since its a compound bend the planks didn't want to lay against the bulwarks, I had to keep adding clamps as I used pva .

 

When I was sitting back looking at it, I thought it looked kind of humorous.  No rubber bands here.

 

 

[themadchemist]

Humorous but necessary. There's some pretty sharp bends planking the inner bulwarks, but the thinner stuff will conform if retrained, which I believe you have managed.

One can never have TOO MANY clamps in this hobby...or too many varieties.

[adivedog]

So true, in fact think there are a few more I could use.

[russ]

Getting the run of the planks on the bulwarks is necessary. If it is not done right, you can tell. The eye will catch it. Good job with the clamps.

 

Russ

[adivedog]

Thanks Russ, just keep learning so much everyday I work on it.

[adivedog]

Haven't gotten a lot done the last few days. But thought I catch up on what I have got done.

 

Got the lower stern done with the African walnut.  I bonded some of the thin planking to the inside of each piece and stained same as deck. I beveled the outer edges for a better fit, then sanded the outside flush.

 

 

Made new deck stringers. I stained the originals a color I didn't like. Did a lateral bend and am letting it form.

 

 

Got the hatch coamings on today.

 

 

Put together the ladders for the lower decks and stained them English Oak.

 

 

I'll finish up the stringers next. Then not sure what after that.  Since the Ryder Cup starts tomorrow morning, may not get much done. 

 

 

[adivedog]

After watching all my teams lose this weekend, I decided to get back on the build today to take my mind off of the losses.

 

Started by gluing in the ladders. Then the stern step. Finished gluing the stringers in. Now here comes the but. According to the plans, the layout and the pictures the stringers go all the way along the deck. If you were going to put in a deck the same thickness as the stringer I can see that, but the scuppers are there to drain the water coming over the bulwarks while at sea and for rain in port. So to me the scupper have to be at deck height. Looking at the plans and the ratio, the decks would have 4-6" of water on them before going out the scuppers.

 

I cut the stringers at the edges of the first and last scupper and beveled for drainage. My question now is, how to finish it ?

 

 

 

Here are two small beveled pieces of stringer between scuppers, then add timberheads ( futtocks ) ? above

 

 

Or leave out pieces of stringer and just go from the deck.

 

I still have to do some finish work on the scuppers, but these will give you an idea.

 

 

Also ran into problems with the stern brackets. They didn't fit right, so had to make two new ones out of some scrap wood left over from the dinghy. Then I'll stain them.

[themadchemist]

The stern knees NEVER fit.  

 and the scupper issue is a huge kit flaw, the kits full of them. I like what you did. I also liked PopJack's solution of filling them out.

 

Looks good John.

[adivedog]

Thanks Keith, I read they use to put lead in the scuppers. I took some lead solder and took a hammer to it to get it thin and tried to fit in scuppers, but I think they'd be more work than they are worth.

[themadchemist]

most pipe was lead, even the romans used lead piping. That's why leads symbol is Pb which is Latin - Plumbum, from which the word plumbing is derived. The lead lining is correct as I understand and would be a nice touch. I've seen other simulate the lead lined drain holes and scuppers.

[adivedog]

I may work on that some more later, it does sound like a nice touch though.

[giantdog]

I've just started my first build (Swift of course) so have been reading the build logs and have a daft question.

 

Really struggling to get my head around planking (I'm so nervous about starting that bit)

So here goes.

 

I notice that the stern of the false keel hasn't been thinned down, I don't think anyone has?

 

So, a cross section of the finished hull would be :-

 

2nd planking =            0.6mm

1st layer of planking = 1.5mm

False keel =                 4mm

1st layer of planking = 1.5mm

2nd planking =             0.6mm

 

that makes 8.2 mm total thickness? 

 

The stern post is only 4mm thick.

 

Have I got that right?

Is that how it will be?

Will you not see the ends of the layers of planking?

 

Sorry if I've really got this mixed up.

[themadchemist]

Hey g-dog

 

You have it right, if you check my build log (hyperlinked in the sig), you will see I had to narrow the keel line considerably from about 1/2 way back. I think Gabe had issues with this and one side extends out, IIRC, as you mention.

 

Its best (IMHO) to 1st plank her, fit the keel/stem/stern posts (for the reason you mention), then 2nd plank. 

 

Also its good to be a bit nervous, but don't let it overwhelm you. Once you get the hang of it, planking can be a JOY. I find it very relaxing. 

[giantdog]

Hey g-dog

 

You have it right, if you check my build log (hyperlinked in the sig), you will see I had to narrow the keel line considerably from about 1/2 way back. I think Gabe had issues with this and one side extends out, IIRC, as you mention.

 

Its best (IMHO) to 1st plank her, fit the keel/stem/stern posts (for the reason you mention), then 2nd plank. 

 

Also its good to be a bit nervous, but don't let it overwhelm you. Once you get the hang of it, planking can be a JOY. I find it very relaxing. 

yours is one of the build logs in my favourite list, I'm just trying to find the bit where you talk about thinning the false keel down.

 

As I sat reading and thinking tonight it just occurred to me that the math doesn't work out.

[giantdog]

I noticed on the bow that you (themadchemist) sanded the false keel into a 'knife edge' and planked over it.

[adivedog]

Hi Giantdog, you are right about the false keel.

 

I was the same way about the planking, but it was easier than I expected once I got started.

 

I used my dremel to bevel the false keel back to about frame 7. After the fact wish I had when ahead and beveled all the way back and went ahead and thinned the stern. ( which I did after the first planking was on )

 

Your math on the planking is right. If you plank first like I did, then you can sand the false keel down then. I also thought long and hard about the second planking. Whether to put the keel on before or after the planking. Most have put the keel on before. I'm going to put the second planking on before the keel and see how that works.

 

Keith put in a rabbet on his to fit the second layer in, which would work also. I'm hoping with the second layer on, I can then sand the false keel down and the put on the keel. Hopefully, it will look right with the plankng being under the keel.

 

That's one of the things in this kit AL really messed up on. They should have had a thicker keel, at least 6mm. I bought a piece of 1/4 " oak, and cut the keel pieces out with a band saw. Was going to stain it and use that, but decided to use the original keel.

 

I've been slacking off this week, but should get back on finishing the second layer tomorrow. Then we'll see how it looks.

 

Good luck with your build, will be glad to help in any way I can. There are a lot of swift logs and a lot of people that will help when you need it. You'll find out you will be spending a lot of time just sitting and pondering what to do sometimes, that's part of the build to.

[adivedog]

Also, yes the bow does need to be beveled also.

 

Would use wood glue whenever possible, it's a lot easier to get loose if you need to have a "do over'.  I've had to take of several mistakes and re do them.

Some of the parts can't be clamped so you'll have to use ca.

[adivedog]

Keith, any progress on moving to the garage yet ?

[adivedog]

Finally, getting back on the Swift.

 

Made and installed the new stern knees. After reading one of the logs about the knees being too narrow to drill the eye bolt holes, I made them 3.5 mm wide.

 

The bulwark planking doesn't really fit with the worn look I'm going for, but will have time to worry about that later.

 

Also, made new stern pin rails. ( not installed yet )

 

 

Today have been working on the second layer of planking. I think this is harder than the first planking.

The planks are so thin, they are a bear to work with. I finally started using scissors to cut them, then lightly sand to size.

 

Started the first garboard with tape to hold in place, then went to an old travel iron I had in a drawer. I ordered a sealing iron from Amazon, but it may not be here for a week. Should have went ahead and paid for the 2nd day delivery. But the iron is working out. If you used ca glue on the planks it would be easier to install, but I want to use pva, in case I have to remove one.

 

 

Process of second planking. Am doing a plank on each side to try to keep it looking the same on both sides.

Now, I see why none of the Swift build logs had much on the process of putting on the 2nd planking.

 

 

As Keith talked about, applying the glue then using a heating iron to push on the planks and get the glue to set up quickly is the answer. I'm sure others have talked about it on some other builds but only checked the Swift logs. Or maybe others did talk about it and I just didn't pay attention. ?   Which is very possible

 

 

[adivedog]

I was going to use this iron, but it was too much trouble to keep hot.