jack.aubrey Posted November 10, 2014 Author #31 Posted November 10, 2014 Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 May 2007. And this is the Santisima Trinidad after I have terminated the second planking. I had to spend three hours with sandpaper, and in very few places with some colored filler ... before to achieve this result but I think it is satisfactory. The photos have been taken before the application of the oil. For this reason the color of the wood is not fully enjoyable. With the oil it looks much better. Now I have to wait two or three days to allow the oil to dry and the next activity will be the istallation of the whales .... But to do this I need to think a way to curve properly the strips for the whales (mm. 2 x 4). I'm thinking to adopt the following method: build some woodden blocks of the right shape of the curves and lock the strips (kept in water and ammonium for sometime) in the between. But I need also time to do some other tests with steamers and/or a candle. There are also special pliers. After I will decide. Bye to the next time ..... yvesvidal, gieb8688, GuntherMT and 1 other 4 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 10, 2014 Author #32 Posted November 10, 2014 Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 As anticipated in my previous message I have prepared some jigs to curve the strips I have to use for the whales. The whales are made of african walnut of mm. 2x4 and are very hard. The following photo shows one of the jigs I have done. The jig consists of two parts, that I call male and female. There is also an example of the strips obtained. The thickness of the jig can accept three strips at a time. Every whale is made of up to three stripes. I proceed as follows: - soak in water and ammonia for 24 hours three strips; - preadapt the soaked strips to the curve by working with a candle; - block these strips between the male and the female components of the jig; - with some rope and adhesive tape, keep together the male and the female; - leave the strips to dry for 24 hours; - in the meantime I soak in water and ammonia three other strips. As you can see the stripes are curved in the right way and, most important, they maintain the desired shape. The installation at this point is only a matter of patience: - take care to glue the stripes in the proper position on the hull (this is particularly important for the first of the three); - once the whale is done, level the stripes with sandpaper. Initially I used the vinyl glue but I wasn't satisfied, so I tryed with the cyan glue and I found this method perfect. I had some problems with the quality of the stripes, mainly for differences in the color and in size. I have solved the differences in size with sandpaper but I haven't a same solution for the color. I think I will adopt one of the followinf two solutions: - use mordant color for wood to uniform the colors or - use black enamel to color the whales. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #34 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 The next photos are done after the installation of some wales on the starboard side. I have decided to finish this side before attacking the larboard one. Please note the noticeable color differences of the wales. WackoWolf 1 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #35 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 In the meantime I am preparing and installing the wales of the startboard side, I made another interesting activity. In the previous photos of the hull you have probably noticed that the sternpost, the stemson and the keel are not there. In the may shipment of the magazine these pieces are included. Unfortunately, after a quick review of this material I found them of poor quality: I was expecting some kind of solid wood and I found'em made of plywood !! Also the cut wasn't perpendicular !! I decided this was unacceptable for me and so I have used this material as a sample to reproduce my own pieces. Obviously they are all made with solid mahogany wood. I then mounted the sternpost and the keel in the proper position on the hull. At the moment I have not yet installed the stemson because I have to finish the whales before. But the piece is ready. The following image shows the stemson ready for the installation. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #36 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 The following two pictures show the same detail of the sternpost and part of the keel. The second was made some seconds after the first. For the second photo I used the flash. Note the difference in color ... they seem two different models ! WackoWolf and GuntherMT 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #37 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Sun May 27, 2007 And here are two other images taken in the same day. I like particularly the second one. Note that I have applied the danish oil in the lower part of the hull. THE OIL ! I have to say that this oil is simply fantastic. Once it is dryed perfectly (3-5 days) the appearance of the wood is very, very nice. Compare these photos with the same without the oil and you will discover the difference ! I'm honestly thinking not to use the varnish as final painting and, instead, to apply another coating of this oil. Has anyone soggestions / experiences regarding this idea ? Any comment is well accepted. WackoWolf and yvesvidal 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #38 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 The starboard side of my Santìsima Trinidad is now completed. In addition to the wales, made with walnut, there are, in the topmost side of the hull, some veneer stripes of mahogany. WackoWolf, yvesvidal and le débutant 3 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #39 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 Three more detailed images of the starboard side of my Santìsima Trinidad. In these images you can easily see that the whales have been coloured. Normally they should be black but I have decided to use a different method. Instead of using an acrylic black paint I have used a powder for coloring wood to be diluted in water. I think its name is mordant but I am not 100% sure. This powder is available to simulate several kind of woods. I have choosen the ebony type. As you know ebony is practically black. I have applied this liquid with a paintbrush for three times in order to fill as much as possible the color. Finally I have applied another color (mahogany) for a fourth time. The result is a very dark brown, close to black, that I like very much. Now I'm working in the same way on the larboard side. yvesvidal, cristikc, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote
yvesvidal Posted November 11, 2014 #40 Posted November 11, 2014 Beautiful result Jack. That oil really transforms the wood. I agree with you that there is no need to varnish anything. Yves Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #41 Posted November 11, 2014 Beautiful result Jack. That oil really transforms the wood. I agree with you that there is no need to varnish anything. Yves Hi Yves, while building this model I discovered for the first time this oil and I have always used it in my more recent models such as the St.Trinidad's Cross section and the Soleil Royal. I like very much it and I appreciate the fact that it is totally absorbed by the wood and, unlike varnish of every kind, you can continue to use the vinyl glue to add new things to the surface treated with it. Regards, Jack. yvesvidal 1 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #42 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 PS: at the moment of writing I have received a new shipment (month of june) of material and instructions. I have discovered that the last wale, the one close to the waterline is not complete: I have to install another strip in the position of the arrow of the second photo and to continue the wale towards the poop. This is an interesting curve to do !! I am also modifying the stemson in order to have it made of three pieces, more similar as it was in reality. One of these pieces is showed in the first photo. WackoWolf 1 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #43 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 June 5th, 2007. Finally I have finished to install the wales. Both sides are done ... and as usually, the second side done is resulting the better. The importance of the experience ... As you can see I have completed the lower wales in the stern area with the critical curve near the sternpost. WackoWolf and yvesvidal 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 11, 2014 Author #44 Posted November 11, 2014 Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 After the wales I am now working on some details on the hull. The first image shows some kind of reinforcements that were installed on the vessel in the proximity of what should be the waist (the waist was not present on the S.S.Trinidad because she was a four decker, but it's very common in the two deckers). I have now to glue the last pieces of these reinforcements but I'm now soaking the strips, so I need another one or two days before having terminated this activity. The remaining images are some details of the bow, with the stemson in evidence. I'm working on the small deck where will start the bowsprit. In evidence the two half cylinders near the doors. I think everybody knows what they are ..... (the toilets) GuntherMT, yvesvidal, WackoWolf and 2 others 5 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 12, 2014 Author #45 Posted November 12, 2014 This model represents my return to active shipmodeling after 40 years of inactivity . . Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 These three images are showing the model as it was yesterday, June 23. They show the overall model. With respect of my previous messages I have done some new activities that I will show and explain better in the next messages, that will follow soon. gieb8688 and GuntherMT 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 12, 2014 Author #46 Posted November 12, 2014 Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 As promised I'm back to show more details on the work done ..... Here I will show the results of my work in the stem area. During these activities I accidentally broke a piece of the stemson, just near the figurehead should be installed. The reason of this accident was due to the wrong direction of the wood fibres, that made the piece fragile. To repair the mistake I had to: - glue the broken piece - plank in the right direction some strips of mahogany (1x5mm.) - level the three strips in ramin (the quasi-white wood) and install three new strips over them. After that the piece is fully repaired and strong enough. The only problem is that now it is two millimeters wider. In the last photo it is possible to see also the now finished lateral reinforcements of the wales in the middle of the hull. yvesvidal, CaptainSteve, cristikc and 2 others 5 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 12, 2014 Author #47 Posted November 12, 2014 Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 The next three photos show the work done in another area of the hull. In practice I have installed the planksheer all around the sides of the hull. The plaksheer is done with a strip of mahogany of mm. 2x7 and, once installed, it lays not as a straight line, but as a very, very large curve. In order to install it properly I have adopted the following technique: - I have applied on the surface to be glued, for the 90% the vynilic Pattex Express - In the remaining 10%, at the two extremities and in the middle, I have used the Super Attack Gel. - I have then positioned the plaksheer in the proper position with the large curve, - I hold it for some seconds in order to have the cyan-acrilate gel dry and ... the piece was installed. - Wait then for a couple of hours and the installation can be refined with sandpaper, ect. The only exception is the two planksheers in the forecastle area. Here the curve was more sensible and it wasn't possible to force the strips in the right position. Here the planksheer is made up of three pieces. I had to refine the results a little bit more but I am satisfied. WackoWolf, GuntherMT and yvesvidal 3 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 12, 2014 Author #48 Posted November 12, 2014 Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 Then, as last activity done, I have started to paint the lower part of the hull. In the attached image the area below the blue line. I the past the area was coated with danish oil that now is totally dry. In this area I don't foresee further activities, with the exception of the installation of the rudder. So, in my mind, it was time to do something. I used then a transparent matt varnish with two main objectives: 1) fill as much as possible the invisible slits (I hope this is the right word) 2) protect the lower part of the hull from any possible accidental damage Working on this activity I have done a quite strange experience. In practice I have applied the same paint, practically in the same moment, over two different types of wood, both coated previously with oil: 1) sapele and 2) walnut. The result was that the day after the coat of varnish, I found it completely dry over the sapele wood and absolutely wet over the walnut !! It took four additional days to dry over the walnut !! I can't explain this fact. Has anyone tasted the same experience ? Please note in the image the new stand. I had to build it when the keel clanper was no further usable on this model. It is very, very stable and, if needed, can be clamped to the workbench. Also the lateral wale reinforcements are clearly visible here. WackoWolf, le débutant, CaptainSteve and 3 others 6 Quote
le débutant Posted November 12, 2014 #49 Posted November 12, 2014 Very nice work. I am interested to no wich product you use for getting a nice wood like that.(for your keel,the name please) Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 12, 2014 Author #50 Posted November 12, 2014 (edited) Very nice work. I am interested to no wich product you use for getting a nice wood like that.(for your keel,the name please) It is an italian product, the image shows the technical description. It is in Italian language . . I apologize. Jack. Edited November 12, 2014 by jack.aubrey Quote
le débutant Posted November 12, 2014 #51 Posted November 12, 2014 Thanks for the info. I will find something similar or equal close to were i live. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #52 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 Back yesterday from my Tuscany trip in Pisa and Leghorn, but .... The training ship "Amerigo Vespucci" was offshore .... bad weather .... clouds and wind .... no baths were possible at all. In the meantime I received four new issues of the magazine and the work on Santisima Trinidad can be resumed. Lot of small things to do .. with lot of patience. Next I will: - build the rudder - continue to work on the bow - terminate the forecastle - apply the last planksheers on the poop deck. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #53 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 First activity after my (short) holiday was this one. In practice a very simple detail on the bow. I don't know the name of this piece. They are two holes in each side of the hull, with their reinforcements, from which the anchors were raised or lowered. The difficulty here was to drill the hole considering the two levels of wood. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #54 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 The next two photos are documenting another activity, this one much more long and difficult of the previous: the construction of the fiferail with its timber heads. I hope fiferail is the proper name. I've found it on "The 100-gun ship Victory", a book from John McKay, Conway Maritime Press. I took about 3 hours to cut the timber heads and to sand them properly. In addition I had to use my Dremel tool to adapt the size of the square holes in the fiferail and in the underneath planksheer. I consider the final result as very, very good. Then I have coated the fiferail and the timber heads with transparent paint. Next I will try to refine better the heads. To complete the forecastle I need now to prepare 18 additional heads, 9 per each side and to fix them on the forecastle planksheer. A very ..... boring job ! le débutant and WackoWolf 2 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #55 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 Here are some images of the last activity, on the poop area. Here I have finally terminated to install all the planksheers, with the same tecnique explained sometime ago. In addition I'm now working to prepare the transom to receive the decorations. I have no idea how the work will proceed in this area because I have not yet received material and instructions bu I know the final result should be very similar to the first attached image. This is not my model, it's an image from a forum member that kindly sent me some photos of his model. WackoWolf 1 Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #56 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 Five new photos of the work done yesterday afternoon. I have built and installed 18 new timber heads in the forecastle. It seems easy but in practice I spent more or less 3 hours around them. I started from a plank of walnut of 4x4mm. Each head is 6mm long. When the 18 pieces were ready I drill all of them in order to insert and glue a pivot. In practice a nail of brass. Then I drill 18 holes on the planksheer in the proper position and finally I have fixed the timber heads into them. As glue I used Super Attack. That's all for now. Regards. Jan R, cristikc, le débutant and 1 other 4 Quote
WackoWolf Posted November 13, 2014 #57 Posted November 13, 2014 She is getting better and better in every new update. Thank you for sharing this, Please keep the updates and Pictures coming. Quote Wacko Joe Go MSW :)
jack.aubrey Posted November 13, 2014 Author #58 Posted November 13, 2014 She is getting better and better in every new update. Thank you for sharing this, Please keep the updates and Pictures coming. Thanks for your comment, it's a pleasure for me . . Jack. Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 Here is a sequence of images of the starboard side, fore and aft. The activity here performed was the installation of the gun frames, made of (I believe) anodyzed aluminium, in the quarterdeck. I had to adapt the gunport holes with a file but the result is very satisfactory. In the first photo, the green circle in the extreme right higlights the square hole ready for the istallation of the cathead. I had to use the cyanacrylate. It's the only glue useful in this situation: fast, clean and strong. The real work will start in the underneath decks !!!! Here the frames are different and I have to adapt many holes to align them to the wales. I made some trials and the proper tool is the Dremel with a milling cutter and a lot of patience. I also think that before proceeding with the frames installation it should be better to paint the area with some coats of transparent paint. Also a coat of black in the refined holes. In this latter case I will need some days to complete this task and resume the frames. CaptainSteve, GuntherMT and WackoWolf 3 Quote
le débutant Posted November 13, 2014 #59 Posted November 13, 2014 I wich for my next build to look half of your and i will be satisfied. Fantastic job.Bravo. Quote
jack.aubrey Posted November 14, 2014 Author #60 Posted November 14, 2014 Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 Last, an image of the rudder, partially finished. Quote
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