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    Central Florida
  • Interests
    Model building, metal detecting

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  1. I have the drive train all set up and ready for installation, when I get around to putting it in, but I aint at that stage quite yet.
  2. Happy New Year to you and family as well, yep I have been cat scratch busy the last week or so, but I try to spend at least an hour a day on which ever build I'm doing at the time. Now sometimes I will spend the whole hour just looking at the build and trying to decide if I want to build a certain area like suggested by the instructions or do I want to modify or change it LOL.
  3. I have the first layer of planking done on the hull with just a bit of cleaning up to do on her. Dumas provides a couple of templates to use to cut the bow and stern blocks from some hard wood or at the very least hard balsa for the nose and rear of the boat. Once glue dries, you have to sand down the blocks to form the contour of the hull.
  4. I started the first layer of planking with the balsa strips. I did what I usually do to most kits and that is to take scrap pieces of wood and beef up the frames, which are 1/8" plywood in order to make them 1/4" which gives me a wider surface to lay the planking as well as more of a gluing surface.
  5. I'm wanting to know what is the best glue for plastic model boats and ships especially those that are built for Radio Control/water use? Anyone have any ideas, I remember the old Testers and Tamiya model airplane glues that I assume were outlawed because of glue sniffers­čśť
  6. $533.00 usd ainht a bad price for that kit and at 50 inches, she'll be a biggun for sure.
  7. Thanks for the heads up James, this is going to be an awesome kit, from the pics this is going to be one of the most detailed kits of the Biz around. Any idea what the asking price will be?
  8. Welcome to the forums, rigging is one of my favorite parts of the build because it makes a tall ship a tall ship and has such a dramatic effect once completed. There are numerous rigging books on the market, which will help you out.
  9. I'm loving that wood deck, she's looking beautiful!
  10. There should be enough room for the motor and the prop. I ordered a Graupner 600 motor for her. It looks like it is going pretty well right now, but one thing I have learned in my old age is, ( for every positive action, there is always a negative reaction and I'm sure there will be one here, but it hasn't shown itself yet.
  11. I'm replacing the two pieces (K7 & K6), which goes on the bottom of the stern and K6 is supposed to be removeable to allow access to the rudder arm, but since I'm making a new access panel on the top, this is no longer needed. So I'm replaces these two pieces with a solid piece of plywood. My main issue was to make sure I was going to have enough clearance between the prop and the rudder since I was moving the rudder forward about 1/2".

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to ÔÇťAdvance Ship Modeling Through ResearchÔÇŁ. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.´╗┐´╗┐

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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