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Posted

HI All,

 

I am thinking of getting a band-saw, however need some advice from users and owners

 

Option 1, from a number of supplier

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-hbs205n-bandsaw

 

Option 2 again from a number of suppliers

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-hbs250n-bandsaw

 

 

The the 3rd option the Proxxon

http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27172.php?list

 

looking at the review of the proxxon it looks like it would do the job, but it is small and has no fence.

 

More than willing to look at other options that i have missed.

 

cheers

ian

Ian

 

Still Sane? who knows, who cares

 

Current Build Panart deck section

Posted

Ian,

 

Have you checked out your local building supply or home renovation store? I know in North America, they usually have a selection of hand and bench power tools that may suit your purposes.

 

On the other hand, I have heard some good things about the Proxxon from other member here in various posts. Best thing I can say is do your research, find the best model that will do the job and is in the right price range.

Carl
 
 
Completed builds: AL Bluenose II 1:75  Gallery
                              Amati Hannah SIB 1:300  Gallery
 
Current Build: Bluenose II - SIB - unknown scale

Posted (edited)

Proxxon is probably the only option for a livingroom modellers, where the bandsaw is fitted to the table and stored in the shelf later on...

Other saws are larger.

 

I have proxxon one, it is really good, precise and easy to setup. But a bit louder then I expected - the plastic case acts like a resonator. See http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5807-proxxon-micro-mbs-240e-band-saw-review/for details.

Lack of a fence is disappointing though..

Edited by Mike Y
Posted (edited)

The common size for benchtop bandsaws seems to be 9 inch.  There are many models available.  You may not be happy with one smaller than this.  Check your big box hardware outlets and on line for this size.  With a strong enough motor, you should be able to resaw from 2 inch stock.  If you are going to use it to cut out patterns, you can cut tight turns with a 1/8" blade. I was disappointed when the 1/16" blades were discontinued.  If scroll cutting is to be your main purpose,  you might wish to look at Carter Products -Band Saw Stabilizer® Guide System for Scroll Cutting.  If it looks like something you would use, buy a 9 inch bandsaw that will match one of the available stabilizer models.  Over here, 59 1/2" is the common blade size for a 9 inch saw.  It is probably wise to pick a model that uses a readily availble blade size.

Since a bandsaw cuts in a constant downward direction, there is no vibration or chatter of a work piece as with a scroll saw or jigsaw.

Some models may be noisy, but most probably are not.  The issue is probably moot, since you would not hear it over the noise from the shopvac collecting the wood dust anyway.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

For me it does scroll cutting better than a scroll saw.  No vibration.

With 3-4 tpi the finish is rough, so leave it proud and finish to the line with sanding.

 

Now for some out of left field stuff.

 

Sanding:

For a fast job of it a disc or belt sander is the more common tool, but neither are good for inside curves and both sand perpendicular to the grain.

A sanding drum will sand with the grain,  sand at a tangent - better control - and with a small enough drum do most inside curves.

 

There is at least one post here about using a drill press to mount drums overhead.

There are spindle sanders, but I don't know if 1) the up/down movement can be turned off.  2) if they will mount different sized drums.

 

I made my own spindle sanding table and can use different diameter drums - 3/4" to 3".  I have a 1/4" ply table top with a cutout diameter to match the drum diameter.   My drums use normal 8 x 11 sandpaper as stock.  I do not see that these drums are still being sold.

The motor came from Grainger. The box is 3/4" ply (because I over engineer everything).  The motor mounting is an Erector Set sort of rig using steel bracing for 2x4's and such for home construction. Sound dampening using free samples of Armstrong kitchen flooring. 

The hard part was matching the motor shaft to the drum mounts.  My Unimat lathe - using pieces from a cold rolled steel rod - bore for female - turn for male - drill and tap for set screws.

If you have access to a full sized wood lathe,  a hard wood like Rock Mable can be glued to a central shaft and turned to any desired diameter. The shaft matching your motor shaft  so that there is a uniformity in the mount.  The turned Maple drum would be true and not be out of round - like some rubber drums that use a squeezing action the hold a sanding sleeve.

The sandpaper can be attached using contact cement - cloth backed sanding medium lasts longer.  It is a hassle to remove. Naptha will undo Weldbond contact cement, but it still needs scraping off.  I have not found an absolute solvent for it.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Peewee. my first bandsaw was the same size as the PROXXON.

then I bought another a little more. It is wonderful. near my house, there is a manufactures saw blades. (much cheaper than PROXXON) you can put more wider or narrower leaves. Your first option seems like a good idea.

the size difference in the two machines is very low. but much mayores.creo benefits is the most important tool at the workshop. one saludo.cabrapente

 

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Edited by cabrapente

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