medic Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share #31 Posted December 27, 2015 Thanks for the heads up guys, will post results Cheers Medic Bobstrake 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZyXuz Posted December 30, 2015 Share #32 Posted December 30, 2015 Brilliant works on the planking, Medic! Hope to see your next update soon! Happy new year medic and Bobstrake 2 Quote Visit My Blog! http://malaysiamodelship.blogspot.com/ Previous Build: HMS Race Horse (Sergal) Current Build: HMS Unicorn (Corel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medic Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share #33 Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) Thanks mate, Please take some of the credit along with AndyW. I'm using your build logs as my reference. Got to say as this is my very first build I'm spending a lot of time scratching my head and thinking "how the" did they do that? Hope to post again this weekend feel free to comment and guide me. Right back everyone with a big Happy New Years to you and yours. Cheers Medic Edited December 31, 2015 by medic ZyXuz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted December 31, 2015 Share #34 Posted December 31, 2015 Beautiful job on the planking, I can see one issue an it bugged me no end as it's difficult to overcome. I think the position and number of the forward bullheads are wrong. Nothing to do with your build, cracking job, it's a fault with the kit, just it leaves a severe angle over the frame to the beak. I only see it because it was one of the frustrations that made it go back in the box for 10 years. That was when I decided to get aggressive with the sandpaper, then carefully applied where required some filler then put a third layer of planking on, just to give to my eye a better sweep. This in turn gave a better radius for the Wales. This in the end caused no end of issues to overcome. Do your cut outs on the bulwarks before you varnish. If I was doing this again, I would enlarge them slightly and line them. As in insert a small wood frame contrasting the walnut. Helps finish the edges and contrast works well on a natural finished model. I would suggest a satin varnish, I use ronseal yacht varnish enhances all the wood, three light coats gives enough depth of lustre. The way I look at it is we are not building a historically accurate version of the ship, think I mentioned feel it was a strange choice on the part of the company to build. Brief account of what I know about her beginnings, is that she was a captured 3 masted French Frigate. Apparently she was the wrong size or gun compliment to be classed as a frigate in the RN, so they changed her class and removed a mast. searched for ages trying to find more detailed information . What I am trying to say is enjoy the build, it will look splendid when finished I have no doubt medic 1 Quote Current Build HMS Racehorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medic Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share #35 Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) Thanks John / Andy, Happy for the support, I was thinking of just applying one coat of varnish on the hull prior to cutting the gunports (yeah I know no guns) but my nautical vocabulary is somewhat limited, hopefully to protect the planking from dirt and marking etc. What do you think, is the raw sanded timber at significant risk of marking? Or is this just a waste of time? Cheers Medic Edited December 31, 2015 by medic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted January 1, 2016 Share #36 Posted January 1, 2016 Not so much marking but will help seal it against staining. Myself I completed all the deck fittings, you want your glues to be absorbed and add strength, so unless I'm wrong I don't see any harm in giving the outer hull a protective coat. medic 1 Quote Current Build HMS Racehorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medic Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share #37 Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Thanks Andy, The chance of a stain when I'm handling it, or my kids grotty little fingers is making me edgy. I'll post the result over the weekend. Cheers Medic Edited January 2, 2016 by medic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medic Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share #38 Posted January 3, 2016 So I've applied a single coat of a combination stain/satin varnish more to protect finish against dirty marks and stains while I'm continuing work. Once I've cut the gun ports I intend putting a couple more coats on the hull. I've now moved onto the deck and have used an 8b pencil on the edges of the planks to highlight joints. My question now is what is the best way to finish the deck off when I varnish? I'm thinking sanding will just leave grey smears. Is there an alternative? In terms of the finished product most of the decks I've been looking at seem to have a clear varnish without any stain pigment. Is this correct or should I go with something very light? Cheers Medic Laurence_B and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted January 3, 2016 Share #39 Posted January 3, 2016 I used straight satin yacht varnish for both hull and deck. Reason being I wasn't wanting to weather or create more authenticity but just enhance the beauty of the wood. medic 1 Quote Current Build HMS Racehorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted February 9, 2016 Share #40 Posted February 9, 2016 Hi mate you still building? Hope to have updates on mine at the weekend. Quote Current Build HMS Racehorse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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