HMS Victory by challenger86 - Corel - 1:98 scale

[challenger86]

Started going over the instructions and list of materials before I begin this great ship.

[Erik the Red]

Hope it goes well.  I should receive a just started 1:98 Sergal Victory.  It should come in mail next week.  It looks as if I will need to replace the top gun deck on the model.  I have been reading the HMS Victory by Edt - 1:96 POB.  If you haven't seen this build, I believe you should.

[challenger86]

Ok thanks, I'll take a peek!

[challenger86]

Started yesterday sanding and fitting pieces on the keel. A couple of pics on the progress.

[JPett]

Ahoy challenger86  

 

She sure is a fine kit 

 

Looks great so far. 

 

I had a small issue with B14. There are some posts in my log if your interested (link in my signature) 

 

Good luck with your build. I have it tagged and look forward to your progress 

[challenger86]

Worked a couple of hours today, placed parts 26 (the long boards, that go under the first decking) and the one piece of decking, just to fit, no gluing just yet.

[dragzz]

this a great kit just make sure that u look over  the same stuff two times just to be sure  take all the time u need to get it right lots of help on the msw if u need it

[challenger86]

Thanks Dragzz, I will. Actually today, I studied how to shape the bow and stern fillers. Looks like a little bit of work there.

[dragzz]

robert are u talking about the frist deck beeing to high at the bow or the sec deck  post a pic of it the way it is as just dry fit it so we can what happening might be a bit of better help ok

Edited December 9, 2014 by dragzz

[challenger86]

Here's my top deck, I don't have the deck beams in just yet but just placing this here to see what kind of sanding I need for each slot for the ribs. What I'm not sure of is at the bow, it appears the deck won't be sitting nice due to ribs 1, 2, and 3 seem too high, then the deck will not even sit on rib 4 as designed. Should I sand down those 3 last ribs or am I missing something?

Edited December 10, 2014 by challenger86

[dragzz]

i see what u mean now looks like to me 1 2 3 ribs need to be sanded to bring it down a bit did u match 1 2 3 ribs to the plans see what it says there dont sand them till u know what to do with them bit of a hard call to make 

[challenger86]

Yup, that's it, the three are out by almost 1/8".

[challenger86]

I sanded ribs 1, 2 and 3 by just over 1/16", looks a lot better now as a dry fit....

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert

 

It does look better. I was writing something just as you posted 

 

I was concerned because you have not yet installed parts 28 which will raise the deck 2.5mm (3/32") in the center of Bulkheads 4 - 10. which is very close to what you were seeing. Part 26 does need to taper off as it connects to the bulkhead so I think you are good. I was just going to suggest installing them before sanding 

Edited December 10, 2014 by JPett

[challenger86]

Thanks JP, yes I cut my deck beams tonight and placed them on the ribs. My pic doesn't show them but the deck is sitting on it.

Here's a top view..

Edited December 10, 2014 by challenger86

[dragzz]

looks better now good work so far

[challenger86]

My bow fillers, lots of sanding indeed, have a little bit left on them, just trying them out for size.

Edited December 12, 2014 by challenger86

[challenger86]

Had some great side chats with JPett and Dragzz, I'm taking my ship off my current Amati clamp and going to build a solid structure to keep the keel straight and to make the hull pretty strong...stay tuned, I'll post pics of the progress tomorrow.

[challenger86]

Here's my new keel jig, off to the races now....

[dragzz]

here one more thing that u can do is to take your plans to a place that photocopy the plans just in case u need to cut them that what i did it will help in the later parts of the build. but for now u are doing a good job there keep up the great work robert i will be watching lol  . ps i wish my work bench was that clean lol

Edited December 14, 2014 by dragzz

[challenger86]

Spent a couple hours tonight planking the lower deck. Procrastinating on my stern fillers, going to be some work there.

[challenger86]

So, the stern fillers. Looks like I would need to sand #29 almost all off, so just wondering why these pieces are that much "off"? When I put the fillers at the stern, doesn't seem like using them will help. I have to leave room for the two planking boards to wrap around and reach the stern, without impending where the rudder assembly would be.

Anyone else appear to have this issue?

Suggestions, recommendations are welcome.

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert  

 

As I too am struggling with this I can only offer what I have chosen. I have come to the conclusion that the first layer of planking on the stern where it meets the keel post will need to be almost completely sanded away. 

 

I found this through queries in my log and confirmed it by comparing the rudder thickness to the keel thickness. Depending on how far forward you were able to mount B14, you may even have to sand down most of the second layer to allow for the upper section of the keel post to be exposed. I have a bit of an issue here. I am considering adding the Keel Post as an additional piece of wood and pushing the rudder position back a bit should my current efforts fail here. I would however prefer not to take this route .

 

I will be following along to see how you handle this. Where some see a problem others just see a challenge. Good Luck  

[challenger86]

Thanks JPett, I was considering the same thing, but hopefully it doesn't change the profile of the stern / rudder too much, aligning with the upper part of the stern, on parts 22,23,&24 and all that goes with it thereafter.

 

Pushing it out by 2-3 mm should not make a big impact, which is what is almost required here.

 

Another option is to sand down #14 quite a bit (possibly #13, 12 as well) so the natural curve on the stern can be achieve, perhaps not even needing a big filler to complete the nice symmetrical curve.

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=247879

 

Here is my post on this. If I add 2mm to the rear and then reduce the rudder 1mm I am only 1mm off which should not effect the stern gallery. 

 

Even if you could sand the bulkheads enough to allow the planks to make that curve without the fillers it would be way too much and really change the shape of the ship. You might be right in that sanding the fillers down even more then I did might be the correct solution. I will let you know that  how much I sanded the filler getting the planks to make that curve pushed the wood pretty close to its limit. More sanding will only make this more difficult. See the third pic in this post 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=248055

Edited December 21, 2014 by JPett

[challenger86]

By the way, this is my sanding workhorse! Love it.

Edited December 23, 2014 by challenger86

[challenger86]

So, I sanded one filler for the stern (using my workhorse), but I feel I still need to add filler on top of this filler to meet up with bulkhead #14.

Once it's close, then I think I'll sand it all together, making a nice curve around to where it should meet up just shy of the rudder. That way, the planks can wrap around and taper off to the keel.

I think that's the plan.

 

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert  

 

Before you add anything to the top of your filler look at plate 4 image E. Parts 50 and 51 mount below bulkhead 22. They will come all the way down past, and cover that flat on the top of the keel post which your are already above with your filler . 

[challenger86]

Jpett, that may mean #14 needs about 1/4 to 3/8 taken off the top so 51 can sit on top of it. Looks like it makes sense.

 

However, after studying F on plate 4, appears there's a hollowed out area so the the rudder fits up into it, where now I think 50 and 51 sit adjacent to the fillers, and protrude away from the stern. If I look at plate 3, E and F show the filler and 14 not too far from #22's slot.

 

Then, studying plate 2, C again, there's actually a gap between 22 and 50, about 4 mm.

Edited December 28, 2014 by challenger86

[JPett]

Ahoy Robert

 

I am not seeing that at all and apologize if my last post lead you to this 

 

You are correct that " there's a hollowed out area so the the rudder fits up into it" shown in F on plate 4. It is made by parts 50 and 51 which do not sit on top of 14, but behind it and are mounted (stacked) to the bottom of Bulkhead 22. . 

 

I did a mock up of the stern a while back. Here is a pic. I hope it helps. I added some text