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Posted

I'm amazed on how quickly you have progressed so far, you must be working long hours on the build.

 

You seem to have it all under control at the moment and the build looks good.

 

Thanks Glenn, I try to get into the workshop for an hour or two in the late evenings but must admit most of my weekends are in the workshop at the moment.

I do expect things to slow down as i get back to my usual weekend chores, also look at making good what's done, IE, filing, sanding, squaring up & making good the gunports etc etc. :)

The problem at the moment is this modelling game is so damn addictive. :D

Posted

You are on the right track Robert !

 

I'm using balsa filler and that works just great.

Try to get the hull with the second planking so smooth if you can otherwise you've got problems with the copperplates.

I keep a close eye to your work !

 

Sjors

Posted

You are on the right track Robert !

 

I'm using balsa filler and that works just great.

Try to get the hull with the second planking so smooth if you can otherwise you've got problems with the copperplates.

I keep a close eye to your work !

 

Sjors

 

Oh yes, the dreaded copper platting, I'll take your advice on board sjors and have that hull as smooth as a babies bottom :D

Posted

Thanks David, I'm sitting here with a smile on my face as she seems to be cleaning up quite well :)

I've been looking at the Wales and it seems the position of these is critically important, now the plans show me quite clearly starboard & port positions but I can't seem to find anything showing the Bow, as the planks sweep around the Bow the position could be out by as much as 5mm.

 

Am I missing something?

Posted

As smooth as a babies bottom, I'll be priming with some more filling and rubbing down before copper plating, now I'm going to do a little decking.

My initial thoughts are the black card used to simulate caulking is to thick, I can see myself moving to 160gm card after this intial planking run.

 

 

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Posted

GreetingS Robert

Well there you go, smoothing the hull was never going to be a prob after seeing the previous photo. Good luck with your deck planking and your choice of caulking which as you know can make a big difference to the look of the ship, as can the choice of varnish. Just enjoy your build....DAVID

Posted

Wow,

 

Congrats Robert !!!!!

Very, very nice !

You can be proud of your self !

That is smooth.......

The copper plates should be no problem now !

But as I say before...take your time with it.

I'm proud of you  :D  :D

 

Sjors

Posted

Hello Robert

I followed Shipyard Sid's advice and used Evostick for the Copper Plating which I found was better then ca. I did use ca for some tiles with a more complex bend, shape.

Glenn (UK)

Posted

 Sjors, Thanks for your kind words of encouragement :) David, as you know I did do a little experiment with the planking and found using black card was my preferred method, however having just completed the middle gun deck I'm leaning towards reducing the card size to 160gm, we'll see how this comes out and then decide.

Glenn, I'll take a close look at the copper plate method a little later, thanks for the tip i'ts much appreciated  ;)

 

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This is before sanding.

 

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Posted

Crisp and clean planking Robert.

Are you putting some treenails on it or do you leave it like this ?

 

Sjors

 

Sjors, this question has been haunting me from day one and the decision has to be made now!!

 

I'll sleep on it, do some research on it and decide before moving on, or I should say before covering it up, as this first set of  deck planking is ideal for having a go at tree nails as it's hardly seen, if seen at all. :)

Posted
Posted

After careful consideration I've decided not to tree-nail the decking. 

So I've moved on and fixed into place the camber beams, glued and pinned down the gun deck (445).

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Lined up and glued into place the inner bulwark gunport patterns(275) making sure the alignment top, bottom and sides are good.

 

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Lined the 8 gunports without lids and continued with planking the hull as far as i could go on one side.

 

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This is where we get problem no 2 as those guns just about fit through the gunports, they're definitely to low which means either the deck needs to be raised by at least 2mm (I think it'll be a complete disaster trying to rip it out and raise it from the camber beams, don't want to do that) to get away with it, or we put false axles on all the gun carrieges on that deck raising them up by 2mm. Eeeeek

 

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It's looking like i'll have to put in a false deck of at least 2mm.

 

 

Posted (edited)

Greetings Robert

If the guns are not central in the inner bulwarks you can centralize them by trimming and lowering or raising the the bulwarks. It all gets planked over. But the guns should be central in the apertures on the hull with no problem at all. So are the inner and outer apertures level, as that might show were the prob is, and it may be easy to sort. Just had another luck and I may be wrong but is it possible to lower the inner ports and tip the gun barrels upward ? Regards . DAVID

Edited by Shipyard sid
Posted

All I did after the deck was planked was add a strip of wood to the front wheels of the gun carriages which centralised the cannon nicely.

 

The strips I added are not visible as I made the same dimensions as each wheel. I think some other builder simply added an additional planking strip along the bulwark edge that did the same thing.

Glenn (UK)

Posted

Robert

 

The inner and outer Bulwarks should be adjusted as Shipyard Sid pointed out.

 

After doing this I found further work was needed. My solution to the problem of centralizing the guns in the gun ports is as follows. Dry fit the wheels and gun barrels to the carriages after glueing in the stool bed, DO NOT glue on the Quoin (Chock) just sit it in position under a gun barrel, then test fit a gun to one of the ports and adjust the chock in or out until the gun is central. Do this in a number of the gunports until you are satisfied with the positioning, note the chock position on the stool bed and only then should the chocks be glued in place.

 

Hope this helps

Gary

Posted

So i've been looking at this gunport lining job in front of me and realizing that this is going to be a long tedious and repetitive job I'm going to make up the first 30 cannons as well.

so the idea is, do a few linings then do a few cannons and so on just to brake the work up a bit.

 

After frigging around with  trying to put a cannon frame together i decided to knock up a quick jig precisely for this job.

 

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I think the photos are self explanatory..

 

 

Posted

Hello Robert

Maybe you could patent that jig, it looks rather good. Yes the work on the canons and rigging them is really fiddly. I don't know about the frigging bit, there's lots of that during the frigging rigging, mark my words. Any way good luck with the guns. Try to enjoy it. DAVID

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