Making filler harder

[jdiven]

I have been experimenting with making filler, HobbyLite in this case, firmer so a good corner or edge can be

shaped  I have mixed various strengths of Tile Bond II to the filler in small amounts to make a thick paste.  Even full strength works and makes a very solid mass when dried which is easy to sand or file. Adhesion to wood also seems to improve.  Painting is no problem, but have not tried stains. 

[hornet]

I have used a filler called plastibond (2 part) I was successfully able to mix a stain (Feast Watson) into the filler before applying it. The results were quite good.

[Tuffarts]

Airplane dope (the stuff used to stretch tissue paper over balsa frames) mixed with talcum powder (plain non scented), makes a thin paste that drys to a rock hard finish.

It is good for small gaps or large surfaces that you want a painted surface.

[Canute]

Tuff, you just described most bottled sanding sealers. No reason they couldn't also double up as filler. I like it!

[ulrich]

I have mixed Wood Glue and Elmers Wood Filler for a stronger bond - it works well, but will not stain propperly.

Ulrich

[Canute]

The wood glue prevents staining, essentially sealing the wood. If you want stained wood, do it before doing any glue ups. You may have to apply pre-conditioner, especially before staining basswood.

[normanh]

Polyester car body filler?

 

 

Norman

[Canute]

Is that stainable? I've used the red stuff on plastic, works well. But, it was getting painted after it dried and sanded. Painted up well..

[JerseyCity Frankie]

Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty comes to mind. Its got "hard" right in its tittle. Its a dry powder with infinite shelf life, mix as you need it, with water, dries in three hours. Sandable drillable can be cast in molds, won't flake off. And it is very hard, harder than plaster or wood filler.

[normanh]

Resin fillers like car body fillers wont be stainable because they are impervious and not meant to be finished in the way.

 

Norman