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Tuffarts

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  1. Tuffarts
    Good job on the treenailing, I use 1 mm dowel for treenails, which fit straight into the drawplate as is. But bamboo is no problem to strip down if you mount a blade in a vice and pull the skewer over the blade kinda thing, should be easy to do safely as the blade will be fixed position and you can pull away from it at all times. One Question, is the Smily face on the gun port an added extra. I don't think they were around until the 1960's when 'T'shirts told you to Smile.
  2. Tuffarts
    Thanks for the comment, and I tried building drunk as instructed and the scalpel becomes more dangerous the drunker you get.
  3. Tuffarts
    A small update on the state of the cannons. I have taken Monkeyman's suggestion and cut the top of the gun carriages, and cut extra 'steps' into the sides. I have also cut the back out to simulate the rear axle. Here is a photo of the carriage with the practice cannon (that is painted black), on the deck. this is the new red that I am going to finish carriages in. The eye bolts and rings were made with .03 wire and painted black, I still need to finish painting the red. The size looks a lot better next to the gun port. I have been playing with the wire to try to make small hooks but the smallest I can make is about 2.5 mm, so I think I am going to just put the breaching rope on the cannons, as the other ropes with their hooks, single and double blocks, they would be too small for me to make look convincing and uniform. But I will put the eyebolts on the carriages and the walls for them. as well as eyebolts for stowing cannon. For now I am still working through these cannons and pumps before I can move on with the model.
  4. Tuffarts
    The 'steps' are used to change the elevation of the weapon. 2 sailors use crowbars to lift the cannon using the steps as fulcrum points, the officer in charge of the cannon moves the quoin {the cake shaped piece with a handle}. I have been looking around the net and found a picture that shows the elevation of the cannon and gun port. It is an English ship, but would be similar, the carriage comes to halfway up the port, which makes my carriages too tall. This is a great suggestion and may save my carriages. So much for the pre painting I had done, I will need to totally rethink the cannons. Hopefully I can fix the mamoli carriages, if not I will need to source more correct carriages.
  5. Tuffarts
    I have found these chisels to be both cheap and good quality. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/trumpeter/tr-09923 there are others in the range also
  6. Tuffarts
    I got some shots of the cannon on deck, this is my trial cannon so the finish is not what I will end up with. The cannon will be black. The eyebolts are too large, and I may make the back wheels a little smaller yet. The cannon looks to be a tight squeeze next to the hull, but other viewing angles it looks smallish. Still playing with cannons for now and working on the rig to attach them to the deck. Pumps are still to be done yet.
  7. Tuffarts
    You can dust things with talc before masking to make it easier to remove after long time
  8. Tuffarts
    http://www.bnamodelworld.com/scale-hardware/shw-rivt-04-b Here is some brass rivets in .04 mm .016in head, 3 mm long, .03 mm .012in shaft They are also in stainless steel and lots of other sizes, also there are washers to match, these are tiny and can be put on eyebolts to give another option for fixing with a small 'shield' washer. I bought some of the above rivets and washers, and they are very tiny, I will see if I can get a photo that shows scale. they are too small for most things at 1:93. smaller than the grain of wood almost. But I am sure others in the range would suit.
  9. Tuffarts
    Yep there is lots wrong with this model, It is more a romanticized version of the Constitution, the hull is wine glass shape but the real thing is shaped more like a round bottomed bucket. the fittings are just what they had that sort of fit the scale/period. really it is not a scale model but a fantasy build of what the ship would look like if it was easy to build and missing bits that did not look 'nautical' enough ie. the rest of the pump assembly, I have seen the kit done with the extra floor put in but the decks looked too small, really if you want to build this accurately, it would be easier to scratch build, but you would need to draw your own plans, the anatomy of a ship book (which I don't own yet) would be a great help but plans would still need to be drawn. Does The Chinese kit have correct amount of decks?
  10. Tuffarts
    I had thought to leave these unpainted on the front. But I left them painted as if the cross section is just past the point where they join to beams running lengthways. all the beams running lengthways are unpainted on the ends, and knees that pass the ends of the model are also unpainted on the ends. You can see on the left that I have carried length way beams a mm further to indicate why paint stops where it does, but this is only on one end of cross section, the other end is all flush.
  11. Tuffarts
    I am in the middle of building this myself, I have done many changes, including adding a scratch built plumbing system with fire station, and adding a lot of knees to make it look more authentic. Your frame is already looking neater than mine. Mamoli factory burnt down last year, I think they have gone out of business. Looking fwd to seeing your progress.
  12. Tuffarts
    A few pictures of where I am up to I have installed the knees on the port side, they still need some painting. And I have installed the pieces inside the gunports that join the inside to the outside. And here is some shots looking from the opposite gunport across the deck I still have to do the knees for the starboard side, and finish the cannons and pumps. Also the smaller beams for the top deck.
  13. Tuffarts
    I have been looking at the Z63 riveter tool from SBS models (if my supplier restocks it). It has changeable head, so adapting or making new tools will be possible for future projects. As for what copper I want to use, I have seen the tape method used a lot on this site (individual tiles and strips) ​I will be getting some to try first but I really want the tiles to overlap, with the rivets from each tile matching to the next. In doing a cutaway model the overlapping tiles will show up on the edge, bringing me to my concern with the copper tape with adhesive pre attached, would this show up or would it be possible to clean the adhesive from the tile for the edges. I have still not found a suitable photo of the real ship that shows the tiles, I like to work from real photos where possible, I don't want to recreate the patina, just the shapes.
  14. Tuffarts
    I got to see that cup in the Perth Yacht Club once, when Australia had it in the early 80's.
  15. Tuffarts
    I try not to, but wood is forgiving medium for fixing mistakes. Not in my other Profession, 25 years of tattooing and that medium does not like it when you make mistakes, it complains.
  16. Tuffarts
    Another small update; I have been working on the beams for the top deck and the knees for the gun deck. There sure is a lot of knees, this is only some of them. I work out there shape in illustrator (it is good for keeping measurements consistent) I print these and stick them to 2 pieces of lime wood that I have edge joined (I do not have correct size wood so I have to compromise) I then sand these with dremel sanding drum in shaper table, and finish with files and knife. I find it easier, but much more time consuming to paint things before they are fitted then just touching up as necessary. Here is a picture of the top deck, just sitting there for the photo. It does fit in but is a tight fit past the ribs. I still need to fit the smaller beams and some horizontal knees. After I have all the knees fitted and wall painted white I will need to finish the pumps and cannons before I can fit the top deck. I still want to look into the riding bitt and get that to look more original. It is very close to the pumps so clearance may be an issue, but I think I will be able to come up with something that will look suitable.
  17. Tuffarts
    You will be happy with the knife, it is made in Japan so quality is great. Surgical blades are sharper but they are also more fragile and tend to break if used with too much force. The Tamia blades are good compromise between sharpness and strength.
  18. Tuffarts
    The Tamia knives are great There is 2 in there range, 1 is called the designer knife this is the smaller of the 2 The other knife(not sure name) is slightly smaller than the #11, but it is sharper out of the box and holds an edge well (It is made in Japan). The designer knife is smaller but has a metal clamp. I use both constantly, and the blade replacements are cheap enough if bought from right supplier.
  19. Tuffarts
    You could try luthier (instrument makers) suppliers, there is sure to be a supplier in the UK.
  20. Tuffarts
    Boxwood is fine grained on holds detail well.
  21. Tuffarts
    They would not be hard to make with a holesaw, plywood and some cheap dowel.
  22. Tuffarts
    this is a very good idea using wood to simulate the hammocks. Just a thought, I have often seen the hammocks leaning instead of straight up and down
  23. Tuffarts
    I have put the walls in on the gun deck and also put the ledges in that hold up the top deck beams. The gun ports are started but still need to extend them to their top extremity. I also made them a little smaller than the plans called for, the supplied port lids will fit better if they are 10mm instead of 11mm. Next I will prepare the deck beams and install the knees for this deck. I also have to finish the cannons and pumps these will need to be fitted before I can fit the top deck, theses I cannot fit from the side after the deck is fitted.
  24. Tuffarts
    You could think about guiding it in copper sheet, the stuff available on ebay is real copper (silver and gold are imitation) this is extremely thin copper that is applied with a leafing size. lefing size is painted on , then left for half an hour to go tacky. the copper is applied to the size After all is dried it can be burnished to a high polish. I have done small parts with it, and results were good. I think a whole hull that is smoothed would be easier. You could varnish it for protection also, as it will corrode over time.
  25. Tuffarts
    Airplane dope (the stuff used to stretch tissue paper over balsa frames) mixed with talcum powder (plain non scented), makes a thin paste that drys to a rock hard finish. It is good for small gaps or large surfaces that you want a painted surface.

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