angrybadger76 Posted February 28, 2015 Share #1 Posted February 28, 2015 Hiya everyone, im presently building Hms Sherbourne by Caldercraft and im on the second planking im too embaresed to do a build log, i could really do with some advice as i am having alot of problems when drilling the Gun ports the Walnut planks keeps splitting ive already removed two sets of planks. thanks for looking and advice john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stockholm tar Posted February 28, 2015 Share #2 Posted February 28, 2015 John, I don't understand exactly what you mean by 'drilling' the gun ports. When planking the gunport strips, you should have planked around the ports, both inside and out. Does this mean you have planked over them with your first planking? Don't worry too much, as I am sure it can be sorted it out. Yes, the walnut planking is a bit of a pain and it splits and flakes quite easily. The thing is to go careful with it. Also, don't be embarrassed about starting a build log, as you'll find this is the best way that members can offer advice. If you have a digital camera, adding pictures is a great help. mtaylor 1 Quote Kester Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th; Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'. Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th (on hold). Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrybadger76 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted February 28, 2015 hi Kester, yes i planked over the gun ports, and i wil do a build log today then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stockholm tar Posted February 28, 2015 Share #4 Posted February 28, 2015 John, Ok, do that, then we can see exactly what you mean. I'm guessing though, you've only planked the outside of the gunport strip so far, which means the gunport openings will still be visible from the inside. With care and a sharp knife (and the model on its side) you might be able to roughly cut them out from the inside and tidy them up with sandpaper and a file afterwards. Quote Kester Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th; Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'. Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th (on hold). Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcreekdad Posted March 4, 2015 Share #5 Posted March 4, 2015 I hate walnut. It looks good after you are done, but a real pain to work with. I'm working on the Pickle now, and for the upper half of planking I used cherry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twintrow Posted March 4, 2015 Share #6 Posted March 4, 2015 Look carefully at the piece you are cutting or bending. Check the direction of the gran. Try a trial cut with scrap. One side will almost always cut better than the other. Also make the cut with several light cuts. Yes it will take longer, but better than throwing out splits. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuerres Posted March 4, 2015 Share #7 Posted March 4, 2015 Badger: we learn by making mistakes, heck I have soooo many of them in every build I work on it's nuts. by posting a bunch of pictures we can see what you have and get a better idea of how to fix it. I have one build I totally am starting over even though I had the hull built! I saw to many problems and got a second kit, all the un-used wood from the first one just gives me more spare wood! the only foolish question is the one we do not ask. mtaylor 1 Quote Holding at Rigging stage : MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work Building Hull : MS Fair American 1:48 In the yard: 18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven sturgis Posted March 16, 2015 Share #8 Posted March 16, 2015 walnut has a specific grain to it. You need to look for the direction that it will lay. Also if you try to bend it or add stress from not forming to hull it will crack. If you stream it and get it to form to the hull you should be able to hold it in place with out claps. Then it will not have stress built in as you cut your gun ports. I believe it would be better if you cut the planks around the gun ports as you plank. Quote My current build Flying Fish http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9858-american-clipper-ship-flying-fish-by-steven-sturgis-model-shipways/ sail techniques http://modelshipworl...-and-technique/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted March 16, 2015 Share #9 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) I sympathise with you about the walnut planks provided by Caldercraft. The rest of the kit components and the plans are good but I found the walnut planking on my Caldercraft Supply to be of poor quality as well. I have the Caldercraft Endeavour and Bounty on the shelf and the walnut strips provided for them are no better. You say you are drilling out the gunports. I am wondering if you are using too large a drill bit for this, and that is why the planking is splitting. I would experiment on a piece of scrap with a very fine bit such as a 1.0 or 0.8 mm. Drill about a 1 mm inside the final dimensions of the gunports and finish off by sanding. Edited March 16, 2015 by hornet Quote Hornet Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. Completed Ship Builds: Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery) Aeropiccola - Golden Hind - Constitution Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!) Corel - Victory Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery Completed Cannon: - French 18th Century Naval Cannon - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece - English 18th Century Carronade Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted March 16, 2015 Share #10 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Use a smaller drill and see if you can put a piece of would behind it to help prevent tear out. By using a smaller hole you can use a needle file to enlarge the hole. David B Edited March 16, 2015 by dgbot hornet 1 Quote Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003 Completed Blockade runner Teazer http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967 Completed The Monitor Lehigh http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680 Completed Kingston Class MCVD http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewNaylor Posted March 16, 2015 Share #11 Posted March 16, 2015 A new SHARP #11 does a good job as long as the planks are well glued to the 1st layer Nibble Nibble Nibble away File out to final size ONLY filing inwards as some times an outward stroke pulls the wood another help is that if you are finishing the wood with a sealer a cote on before sanding also helps stabilize the walnut Andy mtaylor 1 Quote Current Build HM Granado CC Past builds HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC, Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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