Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by drobinson02199

  1. I finished and mounted the rudder, and applied the bow and stern decorations. Pictures below. The drawing shows the white rubbing strakes running straight to the figurehead at the bow, and the brass decorations on that same line without the bend you see here. While the rubbing strakes would "frame" the top decoration, I'm not sure what the bottom of the lower one would look like. In any event, as I mentioned above, I had missed that in the drawings and terminated the strakes at the end of the hull. So I extended them and applied the decorations as you see here. Also as noted in my earlier post, the space between the strakes at the stern was not wide enough for the stern decorations, so I had to file them down to fit. That seems to have worked out OK. Regards, David
  2. The white rubbing strakes are now on. The manual wants pins to hold the curve, but I steamed the curve into the strips, then painted them, and then used CA glue. I think I may have ended the strakes too soon at the bow, and if so, I'll fix that later. I KNOW I have an issue at the stern where the width between the strakes isn't quite large enough for the brass figures that go in there, but I ran out of stern to fix the lower strake to, so I'll fix that as well by cutting down the brass to fit. I need to touch all of this up now with black and white paint. Regards, David
  3. Back from vacation, and found the extra copper plates waiting for me. Took me a while amidst post-vacation catch up tasks to finish off the coppering of the hull. That brought me to finishing off the keel, bow and stern. I had planned to use copper tape for that, and as things turned out, it worked really well. I've attached pictures showing pre-taping rough sections, and then the finished product. Found there was a learning curve in handling the tape to minimize crinkles, but they show up no matter what you do, so I'm glad I used the plates for most of the hull, and equally glad I used tape to finish off the edges. Now I can go back and pick up the sequence items I skipped waiting for the extra plates to arrive. Regards, David
  4. Now some deck detail at the bow. This will be my last progress post for a few weeks. Off for a vacation with my wife. The copper plates are now in shipping to me, so when I get back I'll be able to finish the coppering. Regards, David
  5. More deck detail at the stern. I need to find something to "decorate" that blank white wall above the railing. Regards, David
  6. Antony: I just caught up to this wonderful build. The quality and ingenuity of your work on these scratch built models continues to amaze me. This is quite a step up from the Turtle Ship! Regards, David
  7. Here's the stern deckhouse. I like the look of this model with the brass/paint/wood combination. Regards, David
  8. The deck moldings and the channels are now on the ship, and they make it look much more finished. I'm having to work out of sequence waiting for the hull plates to arrive, but fortunately there are deck structures I can do. Regards, David
  9. Your strips look terrific. As I noted in an earlier post, I couldn't get a good result using a pounce wheel -- but I am going to use strips to edge the bow, stern and keel. Regards, David
  10. A bit more -- there is nice molding to dress the area where the planked deck meets the bulkhead. See before & after pics. [and again, pictures in reverse order] Regards, David
  11. While I'm waiting for the rest of the copper plates to arrive from Ages of Sail, I'm doing what I can to move forward. Here are the planked decks. I can do the next steps involving more deck finishing, but don't want to do the port covers or the white hull strips until I finish the coppering, because they will mar/bend when I lay the ship on its side. Regards, David
  12. [EDIT NOTE: As sometimes happens on this site, the pictures came out in reverse order from what I intended] I'm stuck at the moment because there aren't enough copper plates in the kit to finish the job -- by about 400. Ages of Sail is sending me more, but in the meantime I'm working around it to the extent I can, which is limited. I've mentioned above that I used a different approach to copper each side of the hull. On the first side I started at the keel, then worked up a bit, then went to the waterline, worked down, and then fitted the two together. You can see that in the picture below. On the second side (the one I plan to display), I started at the waterline and am working down (you can see where I ran out of plates). As the picture shows, it's a much better looking pattern up close. From 3 feet or more away, the first side looks fine, but the display side looks much better. Regards, David
  13. I haven't posted in a while because I've been coppering, coppering, coppering . . . One side now done -- picture attached. I started on the side I don't plan to display so I could learn from it. Results are fine, but on the other side I think I'll start at the waterline and bring it down to the keel, where the final fitting of odd pieces and shapes will be easier. On this side, I did it where the bottom and top layers met, and it was a LOT of cutting, filing, and fitting. I'm a bit concerned about my supply of copper plates, but we'll see how that goes. May have to call Ages of Sail for a "make good". Regards, David
  14. Yes -- as soon as I bring this section over to the bow, I'm going to start on the waterline and work down. Regards, David
  15. HOF: Thanks -- the YouTube videos were really helpful. He's using very thin plates -- mine are the thicker kit plates so I don't have the same flexibility he does. Two big things I took out of the videos: The idea of end-capping the cutwater, stern and keel. It's given me a new thought on how to do that on my model. I'm reflecting on his approach of doing the waterline with a row of plates and then using cut plates in the middle to finish off. I was going to trim plates to fit at the waterline. On reflection, I think his way will work better and so that's what I'll do. I'm using medium glue all the way, and it's working pretty well. I'll post a shot when I get a bit further along. Regards, David
  16. Hof: 2,500 plates? I'll be finishing the coppering with a glass of egg nog. 😛 Regards, David
  17. Here's why I abandoned the tape. I made up a strip of the copper tape and put it above a row of the real plates that I have started at the keel. It's really hard to get good shots of this because of the way the tape and plates reflect light, but you can see it in these two pics. The pounce wheel does a fair job of making rivet marks at top and bottom, but the divider rivets just don't look right -- AND, the tape is really shiny compared to the copper plates. Regards, David
  18. Change in direction. I tried my first piece of copper tape, and it just doesn't look right compared to the copper plates supplied with the kit. The impressions made by the pounce wheel are uneven, and the tape is too shiny. So it's on to individual plates, and I'll probably be at that for a while. Regards, David
  19. Have now painted the upper part of the hull black. I brushed on the paint vs. spraying. If I spray, I get spray mist all over my workroom (even with major plastic dropcloths) and have to be super careful not to track it into the house. Just a mess. I have a small exhaust fan mounted high, and maybe I'll get motivated and buy some flexible ducting to bring the exhaust down to the spray area I use. But I used a foam brush here and it worked fine. Time to start coppering. I'm going to see if I can make copper tape work. Stay tuned. Regards, David
  20. So here's my plan for painting. I don't want to paint the lower part of the hull, because I've read that paint can be a poor surface for coppering. So as shown in the pics below, I have put pins in the hull just about 1mm below the waterline. I'll leave them in and paint down to them only. Then when I copper the hull, I'll come up to them and use the holes as a guide for the last copper row, which will cover the holes. Anyhow, that's the idea and we'll see how it works. Regards, David
  21. All ports cut now, and ribs removed from inside bulwarks, so now I'm ready to paint. Regards, David
  22. Harry: By "facimilie" for the ports, do you mean the port covers? If so, yes, there are brass ones with tabs. What happened when you didn't anneal them? Did they snap off? I've realized that this will be along build -- but that's OK. Regards, David
  23. Harry: Yes, the brass bulwarks would have been a help as I have to be really really careful. No need for template as I can take spacing and measurements from the drawing, but just need to be really careful when cutting them out. The ports don't hit any of the bulwark extensions, so no sequence issue there. And yes, those strips are rubbing strakes. So much for my nautical vocabulary. 🥴 Regards, David
  24. I've finished the second planking now and have applied 3 coats of varnish, but . . . The instructions puzzle me, because they call for finish painting of the hull, coppering, and applying decorative wood strips to the outside before cutting the ports and sanding the inside bulwarks. That seems to me to be a prescription for messing up the hull work. So I haven't done the final sand on the varnish or painting or coppering yet, and as you can see I'm cutting the ports now. Tough to get those square and lined up with each other. Then I'll remove the ribs and sand the inside bulwarks, and THEN I'll paint it and copper it. I'm only going to paint down to just below the waterline, so that the coppering (for which my plan is to use tape) will have a better surface to adhere to. One of you who has done the Cutty Sark before will likely tell me that I've made a serious sequence error, but it doesn't seem like it. Just another "look ahead" lesson. Regards, David

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...