Low sheen finish that can take glue

[fnick]

Evening all

 

In despair I turn to the collective wealth of knowledge of MSW! Although I dont need an answer for probably quite a while at the rate I am going, here's a question for you more knowledgeable people than me:

 

I would like to have a low sheen finish for my model but would like something that can take wood glue. Does such a finish exist?

 

Originally I was wanting  (and may still do) to use Danish oil because I love the low sheen finish it has and the warmth and depth it gives the wood. However one major drawback is that wood glue doesnt work on surfaces treated with danish oil and ideally I would like to be able to apply the finish as I go along.

 

I have read it is possible to scrape the surface of oil treated wood so that wood glue can adhere to it but is that true and how strong will the glue bond be?

 

I know lots of people use minwax wipe on poly. Can you use glue on treated wood?

 

If you can answer this then you will have my eternal gratitude    (now there's an incentive if I ever saw one!

 

Ta very much

 

Nick

[druxey]

The problem is that virtually any finish forms a sealing film over the wood surfaces. This will always interfere with a good glue bond. There are only three possible solutions:

 

1) Apply finish only when construction is complete.

 

2) Scrape off the finish wherever you need to apply glue. 

 

3) Do not apply any finish.

 

The first method is simpler. However, you will need to exercise ingenuity to get into tight corners. The second is labor-intensive and still may not guarantee a good bond. The third method is almost fool-proof.

 

Eternal gratitude accepted!

[hornet]

I've found that I can successfully PVA glue items to a deck that has been sprayed with polyurethane as long as it has a fairly large footprint eg cargo hatches, companionways. For items with smaller footprints such as deck pintails and bowsprit bitts and cannon, I always pin them down with 1mm brass wire or tubing as well. Unless it is going to be hung upside down from the ceiling items will remain in place. I've got models that are 30 years old that have been done this way. When I turn them upside down and shake 'em nothing falls off except dust, and maybe a pi**ed off spider!!

[augie]

If something must be glued to wood having a finish, you can try poking tiny holes through the finish with a fine, sharp needle.  This will allow the glue to find its' way down into the wood and improve adhesion.  It's still not as strong as unfinished/unfinished.

[fnick]

Hi guys

 

I knew MSW would not let me down! . At least I know now. That probably means the danish oil is back on but I may have a play with scraping part of the wood/tiny needles etc to get an idea as to how strong the bond will be. Couple that with the wire idea and it should be strong enough. I dont intend on submitting the model to earthquake tremors anyway .

 

Thanks again

 

Nick

[rckdr]

I use acrylic varnish.  This is sold in art supply stores.  It is used to coat and protect artwork and is therefore very clear and has archival qualities.  It has similar composition to white glue, and therefore white and yellow carpenter glues will adhere to it with the same strength as to bare wood (since it soaks into the wood better, it is actually similar to "double gluing").  Two brands that I use are Windsor and Newton Acrylic Matt Varnish and J.W. etc.'s  Right Step Water Base Clear Varnish. 

[druxey]

Acrylics are soluble in alcohol, so presumably the alcohol content in polyvinylalcoholic (white) glue, will dissolve the finish sufficiently to form a good bond.

[fnick]

Thanks for the feedback. Something else to try!

 

Nick