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Which lathe to buy!


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I have the db250. I saw it on EBay and got it for a really good price which made it and easy choice for something to learn on. It has accomplished all I have needed so far for turned wood items. (note: I have not completed my build so cannot say I won't encounter something in the future.) It works smoothly and fits the small space that I had for it and is fun.

 

Recently, I have begun to work on metal fittings. I got the bug to try a mill and this time, since I bought it new, made sure I got a mill that worked metal as well as wood. After using it for both wood and metal parts, I am starting to miss the ability to try out metal turning for things like brass cannon or fabricating other metal fittings and jig parts. So, in the end, I may end up getting a miniature metal lathe which would be good for both wood and metal.

But that is a big if.

 

If I do trade up, I personally like the Sherline brand. They seem to maintain a larger assortment of accessories and these are important in metal work. I am not sure if the Proxxon is industry standard. Their Center (which holds the work) is described as MT1 "short" and I am not sure if the "short" means non-standard. Others on this site would be more knowledgeable about that. I also appreciate Sherline's site which has extensive information as well as video tutorials, which would be good for someone new.

 

Now, with all that said, the db250 is doing the wood work for which I originally bought it, and doing it well. If I did not have the bug for milling metal I would not consider changing it for something else. The difference in cost is too great if I were not going to work metal. That goes for accessories and much as the machine itself. And, I think that the wood machine is a lot simpler to learn.

 

Richard

Edited by rtropp

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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There are a lot of  people that have got the sherline ones they have a lot more accessories for them I plan on getting one of them to.

 

http://www.sherline.com/

Edited by Eddie

I'm probably not going to live long enough to build all these but I'm BLOODY going to try HAHAHA.

 

Future Builds: The Schooner Bluenose, scale 1:48, POF Scratch Build (Gene Bodnar practicum - Plans from modelshipbuilder.com)

                       HMS Victory, scale 1:64 or 1:48, POF Scratch Build (John McKay's plans)

                        

Current Builds: 42ft Longboat Armed for War 1834, scale 1:36 POF Scratch Build (Plans from A.N.C.R.E.) 

                        Galley Washington 1776, scale 1:48, POF Scratch Build (NRG's Plans)

                        Ragusian Carrack, scale 1:59, POB kit (MarisStella)

                        King of the Mississippi, scale 1:80, POB Kit (Artesania Latina)

                        HMS Snake 1797, 18 Gun Sloop of War, scale 1:64, POB Kit (Jotika/CalderCraft)

 


Current Build: Stage Coach 1848, scale 1:10, Kit (Artesania Latina) Shhh don't tell the Admins I'm building this I'll hide it here ^under this line^ so they don't see it HAHAHA.

                       

 

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I have the DB 250 - and I am absolutely content. For my purpose - ship modelling, mostly for the masts and some additional things - it is good, ist easy to handle, ist Proxxon - so it is good quality - and the Price is fair. I paid 110 Euros in Germany. I would recommend it if you have no further interest. It is NOT a professional machine but for the hobby it is good. Dont pay more if you dont need - better save the Money for a ship :D

post-7014-0-79860300-1391716532_thumb.jpg

Next: Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde by Euro Model 1:47

 

Finished: Half Moon Corel;  HMY Royal Caroline Panart; HMB Endeavour Occre 1:54; Fregatte Berlin, Corel, 1:40

 

 

A life without dogs is possible... but worth to live?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have the same doubts as you. As I have the FF230 milling machine (which is very good) I’m leaning to PD 230. It is a matter of cost vs. benefit and of the reason you wish to buy a lathe (to turn cannons, capstans and small pieces or to turn masts). For turning masts the DB 250 is better than the others. The bed of the FD 150 is made of aluminum while in PD 230 it is made of cast iron (which gives you higher precision). Besides the distance between centers (230 mm x 150 mm) one thing that bothers me is the diameter of the internal bore of 8.5 mm in FD 150 (bad for larger masts) while in PD 230 it is 10.5 mm. Let me know about your choice.

Mauricio

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Hi all

I have the db250 also and am just beginning to learn how to use it. I am interested in turning wood cannon. Does anyone have any pictures of their process for turning wood cannon?

Does anyone use any template jigs for reproducing cannon and other parts?

Thanks

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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hello richard,
I've done it this way
I took a used cutter-spare- blade. I shaped it with a diamond wheel mounted on the drill, so as to give a profile equal to that of the cannon.Then I used it for turning, so the guns are equal
.

Edited by fabius.b

current build:   USS Constitution cross section - U.S. Navy Frigate 1797

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Fabius

Do you use it as a "working" guide for your chisel while turning the cannon or as a measurement template while the spindle is stopped?

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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There are times in the past where I have hade to make multiple parts. I would take a tool but and a cutoof wheel and put in a profile.  After sparpening and honing I would  put it in my Sherline and proceed to cut the parts.  This is the same principal as an automatic screw machine.

David B

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