stipecro Posted February 4, 2014 Share #1 Posted February 4, 2014 I would like to buy one of the three Proxxon lathes ! 1. Proxxon db 250 2.Proxxon fd 150 3. Proxxon pd 230 What do you think that would be sufficient for our purposes of making models! Maybe nb. 3. Pd 230. Does anyone have this machine that can share their experience. robbl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted February 5, 2014 Share #2 Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I have the db250. I saw it on EBay and got it for a really good price which made it and easy choice for something to learn on. It has accomplished all I have needed so far for turned wood items. (note: I have not completed my build so cannot say I won't encounter something in the future.) It works smoothly and fits the small space that I had for it and is fun. Recently, I have begun to work on metal fittings. I got the bug to try a mill and this time, since I bought it new, made sure I got a mill that worked metal as well as wood. After using it for both wood and metal parts, I am starting to miss the ability to try out metal turning for things like brass cannon or fabricating other metal fittings and jig parts. So, in the end, I may end up getting a miniature metal lathe which would be good for both wood and metal. But that is a big if. If I do trade up, I personally like the Sherline brand. They seem to maintain a larger assortment of accessories and these are important in metal work. I am not sure if the Proxxon is industry standard. Their Center (which holds the work) is described as MT1 "short" and I am not sure if the "short" means non-standard. Others on this site would be more knowledgeable about that. I also appreciate Sherline's site which has extensive information as well as video tutorials, which would be good for someone new. Now, with all that said, the db250 is doing the wood work for which I originally bought it, and doing it well. If I did not have the bug for milling metal I would not consider changing it for something else. The difference in cost is too great if I were not going to work metal. That goes for accessories and much as the machine itself. And, I think that the wood machine is a lot simpler to learn. Richard Edited February 5, 2014 by rtropp tasmanian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q A's Revenge Posted February 5, 2014 Share #3 Posted February 5, 2014 PD400 apparently! http://www.onemetre.net/OtherTopics/Workshop/Workshop.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Posted February 6, 2014 Share #4 Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) There are a lot of people that have got the sherline ones they have a lot more accessories for them I plan on getting one of them to. http://www.sherline.com/ Edited February 6, 2014 by Eddie WackoWolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted February 6, 2014 Share #5 Posted February 6, 2014 Ive used Sherline for years and like the way they work. Plus they are versatile. David B WackoWolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stipecro Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) I am in doubt. Buy nb.1 or nb.3 The possibility of upgrading nb 3, I like! Edited February 6, 2014 by stipecro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggsl_01 Posted February 6, 2014 Share #7 Posted February 6, 2014 I have the DB 250 - and I am absolutely content. For my purpose - ship modelling, mostly for the masts and some additional things - it is good, ist easy to handle, ist Proxxon - so it is good quality - and the Price is fair. I paid 110 Euros in Germany. I would recommend it if you have no further interest. It is NOT a professional machine but for the hobby it is good. Dont pay more if you dont need - better save the Money for a ship tkay11, fabius.b, riverboat and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mau Posted February 22, 2014 Share #8 Posted February 22, 2014 I have the same doubts as you. As I have the FF230 milling machine (which is very good) I’m leaning to PD 230. It is a matter of cost vs. benefit and of the reason you wish to buy a lathe (to turn cannons, capstans and small pieces or to turn masts). For turning masts the DB 250 is better than the others. The bed of the FD 150 is made of aluminum while in PD 230 it is made of cast iron (which gives you higher precision). Besides the distance between centers (230 mm x 150 mm) one thing that bothers me is the diameter of the internal bore of 8.5 mm in FD 150 (bad for larger masts) while in PD 230 it is 10.5 mm. Let me know about your choice. Mauricio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabius.b Posted February 22, 2014 Share #9 Posted February 22, 2014 I totally agree with maggsl 01. I have DB 250 too, and I'm very satisfied. I worked on cannons, cabestan, masts, with great accuracy. I didn't work on metal, I believe it is not suitable for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stipecro Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted February 23, 2014 Db 250 only for wood for now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted February 27, 2014 Share #11 Posted February 27, 2014 Hi all I have the db250 also and am just beginning to learn how to use it. I am interested in turning wood cannon. Does anyone have any pictures of their process for turning wood cannon? Does anyone use any template jigs for reproducing cannon and other parts? Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabius.b Posted February 28, 2014 Share #12 Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) hello richard,I've done it this wayI took a used cutter-spare- blade. I shaped it with a diamond wheel mounted on the drill, so as to give a profile equal to that of the cannon.Then I used it for turning, so the guns are equal. Edited February 28, 2014 by fabius.b WackoWolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted March 3, 2014 Share #13 Posted March 3, 2014 Fabius Do you use it as a "working" guide for your chisel while turning the cannon or as a measurement template while the spindle is stopped? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted March 3, 2014 Share #14 Posted March 3, 2014 From the descritpion I would say he is using as a scraper. David B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabius.b Posted March 4, 2014 Share #15 Posted March 4, 2014 I used it like a scraper, just like said by david b. You must use the lathe with low speed, and the "scraper " must be very sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted March 4, 2014 Share #16 Posted March 4, 2014 There are times in the past where I have hade to make multiple parts. I would take a tool but and a cutoof wheel and put in a profile. After sparpening and honing I would put it in my Sherline and proceed to cut the parts. This is the same principal as an automatic screw machine. David B WackoWolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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