James H

Yes....ASAP. Real life sometimes gets in the way, especially as I work full time in an extremely stressful job. There are times I'm too mentally (and physically) drained to operate properly. Today has been a particularly bad day......but it's Saturday tomorrow, and I have plenty planned for the weekend.

There will definitely be an update this weekend. Surprise is under paint and I've been working on exterior stuff, so that's what you'll see next. Coppering is imminent too. Initial production will be circa 100 kits, but that's a rolling production as when things get down to low numbers, then you can guarantee the next series of parts are being produced.

I would suggest to everyone that if someone unknown to you is asking for anything such as plans etc. PLEASE report them to us and we will deal with it. I've just banned a member called 'Schlonmann' who has sent almost THIRTY members a message, asking for copies of plans for models they have either worked on or are still building. We won't tolerate this.

I always use a pin pusher on my first layer of planks on POB models. I'm using a Modelcraft tool from Vanguard Models, and also Amati pins which are very fine. These go through the timer easily. If there's resistance, I will drill a tiny pilot hole first.

That really does look very nice 🥰

Love to see your build here too.

This is alchemy 😆

These tend to be the thicker sheets. Use of multi-axis CNC is used to create parts that would be more challenging to produce from plan sheets showing various profiles.

I did say a number of the CNC-milled parts were packaged separately, and here they are. These parts generally have more work on them by means of a multi-axis approach, shaping some quite complicated parts and taking the guesswork out of trying to visually fathom parts from multiple profile drawings. CAF seem to use a lot of lost wax casting for their brass fittings, and the production is very good indeed. You will of course need to clip the parts from the sprues, and then file away any remnant of the connection point. Here you can see the variety of brass parts included. Wooden rigging blocks are included for the cannon, and the rigging cord appears to be a decent quality too, with no fuzziness. Individual brass sheaves are also included for those machined bitts, and wire to mount them. Cannon! The photo actually doesn't show these in their best light. They are very well made, complete with crests. Photo Etch. This is the strip and dowel timber supplied. The big bungle consists of many strips, and all timber is nicely cut with no bad edges, ends or splits. INSTRUCTIONS Readers are best taking a look at the link I previously posted, which will give you a look at the whole manual. Here are a few sample images though. The final set, Pack 6, will follow in a week or so.

PACK 5 This pack isn't optional. It's very much needed for this project. Not only that, but I'm very confident that this is the heaviest of all the packs in this set. Some stats for you; there are almost SIXTY sheets of laser-cut parts. There are also about TWELVE spare sheets of CNC routed parts that occupy the regular pack of timber sheets. In addition to that, there are also TEN individually bagged CNC-shaped parts, including bitts and capstans. Also included is rigging cord, lost-wax brass castings, wooden rigging blocks and wire. A pack of strip wood, large sheet of PE, brass cannon, manual and plans complete this very detailed pack. Laser cutting, again, is very good, and rear scorching will be easy to remove. For all of these sheets, I would give both sides a sanding in fine and then superfine grit paper so get the best out of the cherry wood utilised in the kit. This is something I tend to do so that the timber colour shows through nicely and any resins released by the cutting process, are removed. Tom has made sure that the sheets are as uniform in colour as you can get from a natural product. Part sheets are numbered and those numbers are to be cross-checked against the parts maps supplied in the rear of the instruction manual. As shown in a previous post, there is some debris which needs removing from the milled parts sheets, but the parts themselves are perfectly good and won't need much more than regular clean up before use. Timber elements here include deck beams, furniture, partitions, gratings, deck planking etc. This comprehensive pack is best explained by taking a look at the manual itself, provided by CAF. While I include some photos in the next post, you can preview this pack by clicking THIS link. Continued....

We've had a small number of members like that. They persisted in their arrogance, and they are now gone, being arrogant elsewhere.

Please check your email and pop me a PM to say you got it.

I don't know of a UK supplier any more. There used to be Modelling Timbers, but alas Keith has. now sadly passed. I can vouch for Hobbymill.eu. Their quality and cutting is superb and they're very reliable. @Wahka_est

Sort of. We came up with those skill levels as the more advanced kits still need the modeller to be able to think stages ahead and work that into their planning, irrespective of each of those subsequent photos being detailed. We ALWAYS suggest that anyone tackling a kit like Indefatigable, will be familiar with various building techniques through previous projects. That has to be our caveat. Much depends not only on previous experience, but also success. Of course, some modellers are absolute naturals and can build relatively complex models on their first foray, but many also fail to complete, or have a low level of success. If you go ahead and try Indy, then take your time and ask questions. Chris Watton is a member here, and I'm the guy who built that model for the instruction manual.

I also have this kit in my stash.

Following along.

Depending on where you are located, buying in chapters helps to negate import duty due to breaking down into smaller consignments.

What wizardry is this?

I don't do them as I'm absolutely crap at figure painting. Doing the ones for Surprise was through necessity only.

I like to use Plastikote matt white for a finish coat.

If you ever lose any pegs, just cut them from the sheet yourself? That's what I inevitably do if I lose any while building the prototypes.

PART 4.5 (Optional) Yes, this box is indeed optional to the final build, but in all fairness, it seems nonsensical not to add it unless you're working to strict budgeting restraints. This set will add all of the main hull internal details, such as cabins, internal bulkhead detail, livestock pens, water pumps...in fact, you name it, and it'll be there. It's certainly a weighty box too and crammed 101% full with an incredible number of sheets, as well as fittings and PE etc. All parts in this pack are packed into a single cellophane wrap, and there are individual stacks of sheet timber, both laser and CNC-cut. These sheets are CNC cut. I did wonder about the levels of debris still attached to them, but the majority of this is attached to the frames and not the parts themselves. I did remove a quantity of this beforehand, so that isn't an issue. A nice, clean cutting bit would definitely be advisable for manufacturing though. This pack contains around 31 sheets of laser-cut cherry parts, and a further 9 sheets of plywood for creating the various internal shapes within the hull structure. All laser work is nicely cut, and with minimal rear scorching. As a matter of course, I'd routinely use a sanding mouse with a fine grit to finish off the rear of all sheets so that none of that wood colour shows any discolouration. Quite a large pack of cellophane-wrapped timber is included in this set, all very uniform in colour, nicely cut with no bad edges, and also marked up for identification. Two sections of dowel are also supplied, as is a roll of brass wore, in a CAF wooden spindle. Various packets show rope, pump tubes, a resin jig for building poultry shed, eyelets, nails, internal anchor (stowage), and what looks like hatch lifting loops which are made from cast metal. A large, single sheet of photo-etch is supplied. Here you will find parts for window frames, pump filter ends, lanterns, door hinges etc. PE quality is excellent with only small gates to remove each part. It took about 15 minutes to finally get all of the parts back into the box, along with the manual etc, and that lid is still bulging. Instructions The manual for this set is 46 pages in A4 format, clearly printed, with of those pages being part maps alone. If you want to have a preview of this manual, then it's on the CAF website along with the other kit chapters. Here are just a few selected pages. In the next week or so, I'll show the penultimate pack #5.

Last update before paint. At the moment, I've been finalising some external details before I can finally mask up the hull and start to apply the ochre colour and do any last minute filling that might be necessary. Here are the completed chesstrees. The deck beam edges are. now carefully hidden with decorative edgings The prow hair decorations are included as both pear and PolyBak. As this model will be painted, I opted to use the latter parts. Here you can see how they are fitted. Then onto the cheeks, bolsters, and V frames for the final details. The latter assembly isn't glued to the hull at this stage.

As soon as they show an interest and have a little dexterity. That goes for any type of modelling. I built my first model when I was 7 or 8, using a craft knife and supervision. By the time I was 10yrs, I was wielding a surgical knife and have honed that skill ever since.

Absolutely! One of Nelson's flagships, and also one of only two of his ships ever captured on film; the other being Victory. Foudroyant was wrecked only about 30 miles from me.