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James H

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  1. James H
    There is additional information in the manual regarding setting the height of the stern parts so they sit above the bulwarks. Page 38
  2. James H
    ....continued. The cabin/latrine doors are now built, along with the cabin sides. These are then glued into place. Each spirketting length is also supplied in halves. The forward ones are fitted first, after pre-painting. ....now the ledges. These are full length strips. With basic hull work complete, I use a 12-inch steel rule, wrapped in sandpaper, and draw it evenly over the tops of the bulwarks, levelling them. The hull is then masked before the top rail and wales are painted black. For the prototype, I use Games Workshop's 'Chaos Black' as it has an amazing coating ability. This is from an aerosol can, hence the silly amount of masking you see! More next time.
  3. James H
    ...continued. Time for the laser engraved deck to be fitted. As you can see, the cut-outs can be left in place if you don't want to see below deck. The areas on the main deck denote the areas that need to be removed from the deck. After test fitting, the deck is temporarily laid in place so I can mark the edges of the cutouts. This is to stop me putting glue in the exposed areas. On my build, the deck needed no adjustment whatsoever and fit the first time. The deck is now glued into place and a few clamps applied. The 20inch clamps are great for going through gun ports and holding the deck edges in position. Each inner bulwark is provided as two parts. The fore goes in first. It's easy enough to paint these before fitting. What I did do with the fore parts was to clamp them in place first, with no glue. I left them 24hrs so the fibres relaxed a little, making it easier to glue and clamp later. You can see how I left paint from the areas where the spirket and ledge will fit. Before I can fit the spirketting and ledges, I first need to fit these parts into the stern. .....more in a few minutes.
  4. James H
    Been back from my hols for a week, so it's time for an update. With the first planks done, the outer layer begins with the full length, engraved bulwarks. I did a short soak of the bow area before properly fitting. This was to prevent any possible crack at the top of the fore gunport. I left this to dry for 24hrs so it shrank back to normal size. When it comes to gluing the bulwarks in place, some MDF port jigs are included, each designed for their specific opening. I used a few of these along the way. The bulwarks are very easy to fit. In fact, this hull is one of the friendliest when it comes to planking and adding pre-cut parts such a bulwarks and wales. After these were fitted, the hull was planked in pear and then sanded smooth. The wales are full length parts, and even with their strange curves when flat, they conform to the hull perfectly. The top of the wale sits along the bottom engraved line on each bulwark. The forward end of the bulwarks were soaked in water for 10 mins before being clamped/pinned to the hull until they dried out. A rail is now added to the top side of each bulwark. Look closely and you'll see it. One of my favourite parts and one that signifies a corner being turned; removing the MDF bulwark ears. More in a few minutes....
  5. James H
    Have you tried contacting Panart through their website? https://www.mantuamodelshop.com/contatti
  6. James H
    I can tell you that their next kit will be a 'large' one. That's it...
  7. James H
    In addition, some of these paints I DO use are actually primers anyway. I use Plastikote red oxide primer, and while primer from their spray can range.
  8. James H
    It doesn't do any harm to use a coat of varnish or sanding sealer, as long as it won't react with paint. For what you see here....no, I don't prime. I prep all parts by sanding them smooth with 320 grit paper and dusting off. That's how I do most of what you see, except for Indy's main paint scheme. I used sanding sealer on that.
  9. James H
    It’s looking to be a Level 3 ‘Experienced’ but that is mostly due to rig. The hull itself would be a level lower, but we have to factor in the rig.
  10. James H
    Don't apply glue to the bulkhead ears. It will be a nightmare to remove those ears later and will make an unholy mess...as well as pull chunks from the bulwarks. Only apply glue along the deck height (lowest deck line) and to where the lower bulkheads are. Alternatively, you can dry clamp everything and then brush the glue in carefully and sparingly along deck height (keeping away from the bulkhead ears) and also from underneath into where the bulwark and bulkheads meet.
  11. James H
    All metal. Check out the review here:
  12. James H
    Continued. The hull is now fully planked, and using my usual protective tape on the inner keel areas, the whole lot was sanded smooth. I show a block, but most of the work was done with a sanding mouse, now that I feel confident enough to use it without making gaping holes. The lower stern planking sections are added. These are made up from two engraved parts. Pear prow, keel and rudder post are fitted and wooden alignment pegs used to get the job right. At the moment, I'm waiting for the outer bulwarks to shrink back after soaking. I thought I'd do something useful and got this pile of copper tile made from the roll of self-adhesive copper tape supplied in the kit. Me done for today!
  13. James H
    Update time, and possibly my last before I go on holiday. As the weather here had got better, I could finally get the hull faired. With that task done, I went about fitting the inner pear prow, keel and rudder post. I desperately wanted to get onto the stern, to give it more rigidity in that area. These two 0.8mm ply parts were then fitted. I drew some pencil lines to help with fitting these centrally. To curve the lower counter, and save time, I added a series of score lines on the reverse. Any overhang on these parts was now sanded flush with the sides of the hull. To avoid any kinks in the forward area of the ply bulwark (where the gun ports lay), I soaked the parts and then used an iron and curved block to shape them. These were then fitted/pinned dry. When happy with the positions, they had glue brushed into the joint areas. Planking is done in my usual cack-handed way. With this hull, the lines are very easy to plank and hardly any stealers needed to used. A first for me±
  14. James H
    Absolutely blown away! Will the furniture, lamps etc. be included with the kit?
  15. James H
    Last one for today. Bitts These need no explanation. They'll also be painted red before fitting to the hull. Grates I'm only showing one unit being built here as they all follow the same pattern, including the coaming that accepts the ladder to access the lower deck. These coamings have curved tops, and are identical in shape to those on the shipyard plans. First, we have to glue the curved top parts into place on the body. I now soak all the tops and wrap around a tin until thoroughly dry. The centres are also temporarily left in place to add strength and make it easier to neatly and evenly sand the tops of the assemblies. After sanding the units so they are smooth, the coamings can be painted black. Note that this unit has another curved part. This is where the stove chimney will protrude. Until next time...
  16. James H
    Gallows There are two of these, slightly different. The head bar is composed of three parts which build up to make a unit which is recessed centrally to accept the vertical posts. Skylight This is very similar to skylights on some other VM kits. The photos are self-explanatory. Wheel And again, the construction of the wheel unit is identical to some other VM kits. This is centred on a drum unit which is sandwiched between the main posts, along with a photo etch wheel which is built from six parts before priming and painting in a brown colour. Winch As with the bitts and gallows, this is painted red before assembly, and the 3D printed drums are painted brown. The side parts need to sit in the deck slots so the unit is properly spaced when assembled. More in a very short while.
  17. James H
    At this point, the hull still isn't faired, but that should happen tomorrow. No time lost though as all of the various fittings and fixtures are now complete, and these next few posts will show you a little of what I have done. There is a degree of work that I'm also not showing here as it's irrelevant at the moment.....such as gallows, bitts etc. painted in red. Ok, here we go. Capstan If you've build any VM kits, then this capstan's construction will be very familiar, so here are just a few images showing it up until the painting sequence. Ladders It's the same with the ladders. These are a tried and tested formula. Harpy has six ladders of various sizes and shapes, including the ones fitted for boarding. Final photos for companionway As you can seem these now have the PE parts fitted. The companionway will simply be varnished, as will the skylight and wheel unit, so extra effort has been made to make this look pretty. Rudder box The original plans show something that looked like boxing around the rudder protrusion above deck. This was determined to be something that would likely have looked like this. At this stage, this just needed a nice sanding to even it up and clear up the charred ends. Davits These hang over the stern and provide an option for hanging the ship's boat. These are simple to build and involve adding the winch holes and end caps to the main parts. I've only cleaned these up enough to blend those parts to the main body, as the whole lot will eventually be painted black. Catheads These consist of two engraved parts which are glued together and then fitted with the winch holes and end caps. These will also be painted black before being fitted to the hull. More in a moment...
  18. James H
    I'm doing the grate coamings in black. Stern 'cabins' in natural, companionway in natural and the skylight painted. Not sure whether red or black yet....or even the colour of the wheel stuff yet. Open to suggestions!
  19. James H
    Building these models rarely means that anything is built in chronological order. I need to best use my time to do other tasks while I'm doing some of the much earlier work. This has been the case for Harpy. Since the last work, I was unable to do anything with any significant sanding work due to HMS Indefatigable still occupying most of my workspace. Thankfully, this weekend, Indy has been moved to her shipping crate, pending her journey to her new home in Scotland. So while Indy was still outstaying her welcome in my workshop, I've started to build a multitude of other things. Here are just three of the items I've been working on in that time.....the carronades, cannon, and companionway. These guns build in exactly the same way as those on previous models. The companionway is a little different and looks very nice with her inlaid panels. The lid is just tacked on while the PE is primed and painted. Not sure if I should paint the companionway yet, or leave in varnish. Ok, time for TV...
  20. James H
    Outstanding! Your best yet! Certainly imposing once the rig is done.
  21. James H
    And the last for tonight... More deck details. Here is the sail room. I did make a slight mistake and added the door side to the wrong end. I'll note that in the manual. A brand new design stove is supplied as two parts in 3D print. No PE needed for this. I painted it black, added flat varnish, and then some steel pigment. The chimney is only on for display. It won't be glued yet. The stove body is now glued into place. Eyelets are also added for the door handles and hatches. All deck beams are now fitted. These are numbered and simply plug into the numbered slots on the lower deck side walls. Various support beams etc. are now also glued into place. Lastly, the 0.8mm ply deck is flexed and slipped into position. Zero effort to do this. Very easy. The deck and beam assembly has been changed from other designs in that it is now totally flush with the top of the beams. This means that when the engraved deck is fitted, it's all you'll see through the deck cutouts.....no ply underlying. Time for wine...
  22. James H
    more... The stern assemblies are now slotted into place and bulkhead #17 is glued....yes, glued! And once you've checked everything is nice and straight along the keel, glue is brushed into all the joints and pins and then left to thoroughly set. If you like detail, then Harpy has plenty. Here's the lower deck now getting a makeover. The first deck details to go in are the grates. The deck is etched to show the exact position of these.
  23. James H
    Continued... I now do the same with the rear lower deck, and again, pinned into place. I have glued the engraved decks to the MDF first as it provides a good opportunity to use weight to hold them flat while they dry, instead of using clamps. Now onto the lower deck sidewalls. Note that these are numbered for the eventual upper deck beams. Because of this, these are positioned so the engraved text is facing outwards. Once in place, more pins are used to lock these walls in situ. A series of formers are now slotted into the bow to help create the shape. These are bevelled before fitting. And now parts 1E are glued into position to create the beak of the main deck. Some glue is now used to build the stern cabins.
  24. James H
    Time for an update. Work on this started on Wednesday and up to the close of today, the ply main deck is now down. Let's look at the abridged build process! As always, the first task is to build up the cradle. Nothing complicated here. The first three bulkheads are engraved to provide a rough gauge for bevelling. As Indy is still in my room, I decided to use sanding sticks to even the parts. Ideally, you should use a rotary tool on medium speed. All bulkheads are now fitted, except for the last one, #17. To lock the bulkheads into place, doublers are slotted either side of the bulkheads, and then locked into place with pegs. This also strengthens the keel, whilst allowing a very slight wiggle to the bulkheads. NO GLUE IS APPLIED anywhere until later. To provide additional deck support and further solidify bulkhead positions, longitudinal strips are now slotted across the top of all bulkheads. The MDF sub-deck is fitted with an engraved deck section representing the lower deck. This is then sat in place and MDF pins used to secure this in place.
  25. James H
    You've done such a lovely job of this. I definitely this is your best work yet, and I look forward to seeing Adder.

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