
Mike Dowling
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Airbrush
Mike Dowling replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Thank you all very much for your comments/opinions/advice. You sure know how to put a bloke off!! It is so complicated I had no idea and by the time you have all the bits and pieces together rather expensive as well. I think I will be sticking to the good old paintbrush with the occasional interference from an aerosol spray paint. One day maybe I will explore some more! -
Airbrush
Mike Dowling replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think I would like your job ! Lots of toys to play with and models to build - can't be bad. Thanks so much for your replies both to me and that on MSW. Something to think about anyway. -
Airbrush
Mike Dowling replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Thanks John, I had a look at the link you sent. I had no idea they were so complicated. I can see myself sticking with a paint brush! -
Can anyone help with suggestions as to a good airbrush, not too expensive and easy to use for a novice in airbrushing ?
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Great I thought, the paint has arrived. Indeed it has but it is totally the wrong colour!! Oh joy! So, covering all bases as it were I have now ordered some more paint (!!!!) and some matt varnish so that if all else fails I can go back and use my original paint and cover it with matt varnish. However this does cause even more delay and I did want to take advantage of the dreadful weather we are having.
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Thanks for that Roger but I can't seem to get it over here in the wilds of Northern Scotland!
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I am going watch this as well Keith. Is it your own design?
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Thank you Kurt for an informative reply, I am sure that will be useful to all. Roger, I really wasn't happy with my first 'paint job' as it looked dreadful. The problem I was having is that the deck pieces are marked with shallow laser lines indicating planks. If I sanded the joints between the deck sections too hard I removed the lines. After painting the joins still showed far too much so I took the risk and sanded it all back. In fact I managed to retain most of the lines probably because I had sealed the wood prior to painting and got rid of the horrid bumps I had left. My plan is to repaint having marked up some of the lines again with matt iron oxide coloured paint. If it still looks dreadful I still have the option to plank over the whole surface and start again. Unfortunately I don't possess and air brush and to be quite honest I don't have anywhere I could use one safely either so it will have to be a hand brush job applying several thin coats. Fingers crossed !! I am still waiting for the paint.
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Hey Roger, did you notice that I sanded it all off?
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Marv, I keep hoping I will win the lottery or something and but some really expensive toys like some Byrnes tools !!! I don't think it is going to happen but I still seem to spend too much on little bits and pieces ! Thanks Cathead, I seen to remember Kurt saying something about tar paper or similar. Perhaps if he is watching he will be kind enough to enlighten us. By the way, still waiting for the matt paint I have ordered so I am just doing some of the little bits that eventually will go on the deck.
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Thanks Boyd, I am just trying to paint this model in colours true to the original but I do take your point and I often 'alter' the odd bit and piece to suit myself!! Not that it bothers me particularly but if I do have to plank the deck I will have to do the second as well at least. Strangely the top two decks are smooth in the kit but I am not knowledgeable enough to know how that could have been achieved on the original boat. Anyway, thanks for watching and I also reckon the plank size is OK.
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Yes you are right my friend, it didn't look bad before I started painting it - except for the lumps of course !!!
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Thanks Carl, I have just spent some time remarking the laser lines with a no11 blade and a very sharp pointy thin I have in my armoury and, it doesn't look too bad. SO, matt paint on order and I will try to paint it again knowing that if I muck it up I can always cover it !!! Thanks for all the comments everyone, I will try not to let you down !
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Thank you very much Kurt for both the PM and your post. I have used the method you describe for locating holes etc when planking before so I understand exactly what you mean. I have bitten the beginning of the bullet as you will see by sanding the whole thing down rather severely and getting rid of that red paint where it would show. One of the reasons was the dog tooth joint, whilst it might not show much looked horrendous and I just couldn't live with it, also the horrid central bump I had at the prow. So, if nothing else the bumps have now gone. Unfortunately the process has also showed up the variation is laser marked lines and how feint they are in some parts and really strong in others. It occurs to me that I don't really have too plank the whole surface, only the parts that will show and what will be inside the cabins I could then just paint matt black. If I am going to paint rather than stain/varnish I must source some matt iron oxide paint. I bought satin finish without realsing. Anyway contributors, look what you have made me do ! Only joking, it's all my fault! Doesn't anyone know about beech wood ?
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chborgm, sorry but I don't understand what you mean, I don't know what you mean by 'tabs'. Thanks for that cathead, that's about what I thought. Any ideas about beech wood anyone?
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You sir are a gent! Yes I reckon I could get away with it but..........! No there are no plank ends, something else I don't like about it and I have already tried scoring across the wood but it tears rather than leaving nice ends. The scale of this model is 1:48 so, because I am no good at maths either, how long should scale planks be? Any ideas? I would reckon about 5 inches or 12 cms ?
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Thanks for that Carl, I had been thinking about how to make a template in case and I like your suggestion. This kit, apart from the laser marked planks has a lot of guidelines to show were other pieces go later. That is partly why I didn't dare sand the deck any harder in the first place.
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Hey guys, here are some pictures warts and all. I would like honest opinions please as to what I should do.
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No Cathead (wish I knew your proper name, it seems a bit rude to keep calling you Cathead) you are absolutely right. There are loads of solutions to different problems and any/all suggestions are welcome. Having said that I have just had a bath (not that anyone wants to know that!) and come back to look at the painted surface and I have to say I am far from impressed. The problem with MSW and all the experts and advice is that all of a sudden you become like them !!!! I am not at all happy with what I see of my efforts thus far. Cathead you will be thrilled but I am now seriously considering this re-planking lark. Don't know what you think Karl because you managed with the kit as was ? But, experts, what is the best wood for such narrow planking ? We are looking at 1/8th because it is an American kit which is 3. something mm for the Europeans which I simply refuse to be !! I did get some Manzonia before for my Lady Smith and that fairly decent. Any good? I will not get the size right for the laser lines whatever I do which is a bit of a pain but allowing for glue and slightly rough edges this aint going to happen anyway! A lot of the walls and stuff are also planked in this kit much like others I have done so whatever I do has to be consistent. There was loads of planking to be done on the Robt. E. Lee I built which I do quite enjoy and the end result of that build looks one heck of a lot better than what I have in front of me now. So guys, should I stick with Manzonia which is a wee bit wide but a good thickness or use something else ? HELP!
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I think you miss the point my friend. The planking lines are supposed to show although you have a very good point about some of the other 'joints'. Your suggestion might be brilliant for those. I think there are just too many square holes in this kit for your cunning plan to work but thanks for the suggestion. There is a lot to be said for scratchbuilding methinks but I am certainly not sure I could make as wonderful a model as your Bertrand!
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So far I have sealed the deck with sanding sealer less the talc and it has had two coats of brushed acrylic and it still needs another one. So far, the planking lines still show through. If it looks dreadful I am quite prepared to order some wood and re-plank but there are a lot of precut holes to redo. I wouldn't mind if they were circular but loads are square !! To be honest by the time the superstructure is on top there is not a huge amount of deck actually showing but we shall see. I might be really brave, take some pics and see what others think!
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Many thanks to Carl who has sorted my problem out.
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All very interesting but what has this all got to do with cows? On a slightly different topic, I am not good with computers. A lovely lady called Anja who used to be a moderator for the forum used to help me with getting my 'current build' to show under my details and also list my previous builds and gallery. I think a couple of moderators may be watching this build of mine so please, can someone either tell me in very easy language how to do it or, make an offer to do it for me ?
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