Mike Dowling
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Everything posted by Mike Dowling
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Hello folks', No I have not been idle all summer but very slowly progressing with the OcCre version of the Santisima Trinidad cross section. I didn't start a build log so none of you will have been able to follow my progress. Part of my reason for this is that there is already a wonderful build log on this kit on msw already and it seemed silly just to duplicate everything. It will not be a surprise to you that I am an OcCre kit fan and the quality of this kit was up to their usual standards. I can't complain about them, only my own mistakes and 'shortcuts'!!! although I have to say their instructions were not as good as other kits they make. The reason I wanted to build this one was to practice and try to improve my rigging skills which I feel I have. My shrouds and deadeyes especially were much better than I had done before and most of the rigging I am pleased with. I know for the keen eyed that I did make one bilateral mistake and belayed a couple of ropes to the wrong places. By the time I noticed it was already too late to undo so I will live with it. I think it is a strange thing to do in some ways - a cross section - and I wouldn't do another one because for all the effort involved it never was going to look complete in a way. I wouldn't even dream of doing the whole ship which OcCre also do as not only is it huge but I think I would lose patience with it quite fast. Anyway, I will post some pictures of my efforts for you all to see and love or hate as you wish. My next project is going to be my second stage coach which I know is not of interest on this site but, fear not, I shall be watching you !!! I am thinking of doing the RMS Titanic afterwards !!!!!!!! Watch this space !
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How to avoid twisted lanyards
Mike Dowling replied to Captain Al's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If it is any help at all I found that waxing the lanyard thread helps and then just run the shrouds between finger and thumb before you start 'lacing' the ratlines and then keep the deadeye facing whichever way it choses. It worked for me. -
Yes, easy stages and you get there in the end !! I am still working on my Santisima Trinidad cross section. Not the most rewarding model I have done but it is helping me practice my rigging skills - or lack thereof !! Still haven't decided on my next creation but I am beginning to think the Victory is a bit too clever for me. I don't have all the wonderful tools you have collected to bail me out of problems. I don't know about you but if I get too many problems I stop enjoying it all and after all that is not the idea. I will never be a master scratchbuilder like Danny but enjoyment is the most important thing. I can still enjoy other peoples wonderful models as long as I enjoy what I am doing. Your ratlines by the way look terrific.
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Dan you have highlighted a problem I have been trying to work out with someone on another log. To put the shrouds through the lubber hole as you show (and as I did on my Bounty after your advice) it is impossible to get the far end deadeye attached first as it simply won't go through! It makes the seizing of it a nightmare! I would be interested to know the solution to this and hope that C.Al doesn't mind me pinching a bit of his log space. I am sure others would like to know the answer to this dilemma.
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Don't despair, you have and do help a great deal. Many thanks about the book, I will have a look for that.
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OK matey, I get the picture ! Your scheme is fine as long as you have room to get one deadeye through the lubbers hole!!! I think to be honest, having had another look at my Bounty, that I am going to go back to my original 'twist and glue' method. It may not be politically correct but it works for me and in the end, by the time you have secured the final end of the lanyards by wrapping round, no-one except the perfectionists out there would know the difference !!! None the less I am very grateful for your efforts and I am quite sure it will be very useful to other members who are more PC than I. You have become far more of an expert than I, even if you profess to being a beginner. I would remind all budding boat builders out there that paddle steamers and stage coaches do not have any significant rigging to worry about !!! You are an absolute Gent Boyd for your assistance, I just have to accept that you are a better model ship builder than I.
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Maybe I am just being a 'plank' about all this but, while we are here, what do you do with the ends of the lanyards ? I know the final end raps round the shroud but what about the other end ? I am sure I am not the only one with problems about these beasties !
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Excellent demonstration my friend and very much what I had finally come up with. Now, this is fine for the 'free end' on the desk as it were but, how on earth do you manage that with the other end which is dangling from the mast ?
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Many thanks for all that Boyd. My remaining question is, how do you manage to keep the loop of thread around the top deadeye when you are doing the seizing? It may also be of interest to others that both the boat builds I have done/am doing have chain fastenings below the bottom dead eye rather than solid ones but the principal is the same.
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Hey Skipper, sorry if I misled you here. The Constructo frames etc are not laser cut but seem to be 'pressed' so the outine of the parts is there and they are partly cut but nothing like the proper laser cutting of pieces. You have to do quite a lot of work with a knife and then careful sanding afterwards. Whilst I fully appreciate dgbot's answer I haven't had the funds to get a scroll saw yet - often though it was a good idea though especially if I get really brave and decide to have a go at scratchbuliding !!!! Strange, talking of that does anyone have plans for the RSS Discovery?
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Not a dumb question at all my friend. I have been used to doing kits with laser cut pieces. Very easy to remove from the boards and, except maybe for the scorch marks, very easy to work with. I have now completed two Constructo kits, the REL and Louise both of which I am pleased with in the end but, they don't use the same process for parts. As a result what you get are clearly marked sheets of pieces but not fully cut so you have to follow grooves with an xacto or similar. Also the quality of their plywood parts is certainly questionable when compared with other manufacturers. I can't be too damning of Constructo because they do finish up being nice models but there are certainly better quality kits out there with better instructions. I hope that is helpful to you in some way.
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Thank you to everyone, Strangely enough after all this time I decided to put another row of railings on the wheelhouse deck because somehow the boat just didn't look finished. I reckon it was well worth the effort. I really am very grateful for all the comments and especially glad that the unpainted approach is appreciated.
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If it is of interest, OcCre do a cross section of the Santisima Trinidad (which I am building at the moment) and also a full size model at the same scale of the same boat. I am a big fan of OcCre kits as their quality and instructions seem better than most. Hope this is helpful.
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As Keith W suggested to you earlier, if you dry fit the first deck you can use that to take up the small curve you refer to and I think you will find that will work.
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Hi there GG. I built the OcCre version and in my opinion you are right. All your frames must sit at right angles (90 degrees) to the keel and each other. It is difficult to tell from your photo but, are your frames warped?
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Thanks Ian for your helpful reply. When I built my Bounty (the first large ship I had ever tried) I made use of fillers at the bow and stern and found them to be invaluable for all the reasons you have stated. I would certainly recommend it as a technique to both new and experienced builders alike
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Hi there, only just found your log. I am thinking about doing a Victory and contemplating raiding my piggy bank to do it. Like you I am a novice to ship building and I wanted to ask, did you choose to put in balsa fillers at the bow and stern prior to planking or was that supplied or suggested in the instructions? Good luck with your build, I shall follow with interest. Mike.
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Ron, thank you so much for your post and for the flattery !!! There is noting like a good boost to the ego now and then !! Sorry for not replying to you sooner but have been enjoying some of those rare Scottish summer days away before Winter sets in and serious modelling time is available. I value your comments about the Caldercraft kit and do take on board the comments you make about the plans, quality etc but the price tag still hurts !! I may have to simply wait until my piggy bank has a lot more in it. Loads of others also think your comments useful so maybe I just have to be patient. Problem then is, what do I build while I am saving up ?
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Many thanks for that Ron. I am really not sure that I have the skills needed to complete any Victory kit satisfactorily and whilst I can see that the CC kit is amazing, so is it's price tag !! I am so envious of Shihawks build which is what has caused me to think seriously about having a go at my own. but I am not sure that I can justify spending so much money on a dream plus the fact I am pretty sure I would need some more tools as well !!! Whatever, I thank you and value your comments and suggestions. Mike. PS. Maybe you could have a look at my Bounty gallery and see if you think I am up to taking on the Victory.
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Not sure I understand your post dafi even if Canute likes it ! The CC kit looks wonderful but it sure is pricey !!!
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Thanks for that hornet, it is good to get several opinions.
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Hi matey !! I have just found a Billing kit like yours at a not bad price. Should I be brave and go for it ? Does the large scale make it easier or harder do you think ? What do you reckon would be a good price as, not wishing to be too nosey I have no idea what yours cost. Also, and not too much of the flattery, do you think I could make a decent job of it ? Yours is so brilliant I am not sure I could do nearly as well.
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Hi again, Does anyone out there know if the Billing 1:75 version is any good as I have found on at what seems to be a fairly good price.
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