Mike Dowling

Hi Mike,
 
It sounds like you are getting some great advice, and although I am no help at all (I have not yet experienced planking) I have been following another log where a friend has just gone through the same troubles as you.  If you are interested here is a link to his page and solution that suited him (although everyone has to choose the one they like best for themselves).
 
Good luck with your planking and the method you settle on for bending!

Hey.........
 
Try using some birch hardwood planks.  Soak them for about a half hour, clamp in place and leave it to dry or use Mama's blow dryer.  It will stay in the position you set it in.  After you soak it in water for a while, you can probably tie it in a knot. 
 
Si

Hey everybody!! I though, just for a change, that you might like to see my bottom!!!
Before it gets covered up!
 


 

Thanks CF, I think I understand the bending bit.  You are saying I have to bend them and wait until they are dry. If so I had better go and but some curling tongs! It's just a shame that the bits I need to bend always seem to be on the end of the 'strake'! On the open side, in a way it's easier because they will nearly all be quite short. It's the port side that worries me more as it will all be covered. If I follow the wonderful and gorgeous instructions such as they are I will need as many stealers as strakes. Captain Al will have the same problems and his is only single planked.
 
The garboard plank for us gets done in several pieces because of the same process as above. I know it's not the way the experts do it but it does seem to be a means to an end so to speak.
 
With regard to the placing of strakes for the cutout, the instructions are relatively good with a fairly straightforward progression at the bow and effectively two at the stern. There actually given measurements for once!

Hi all,
I have just spent 3 days trying to make the Bounty launch with virtually no instructions. I have done my best by looking at other logs and plans so please don't be too judgemental. My filling balsa has arrived!! I have put some in and nearly finished the sanding so I am now running out of excuses for not starting the planking. I am just so scared I can see loads of lack of sleep worrying about it but, seeing as how we are supposed to admit to both our successes and mistakes I will keep you updated. Here is my work to date!!





 
 
 
 
 

Launch is great, nice work my friend.
 
Infilling looks like it is going well too, should be really helpful when you get to the planking.

Hi all,
I have just spent 3 days trying to make the Bounty launch with virtually no instructions. I have done my best by looking at other logs and plans so please don't be too judgemental. My filling balsa has arrived!! I have put some in and nearly finished the sanding so I am now running out of excuses for not starting the planking. I am just so scared I can see loads of lack of sleep worrying about it but, seeing as how we are supposed to admit to both our successes and mistakes I will keep you updated. Here is my work to date!!





 
 
 
 
 

Wow, a few questions to answer there. Firstly, I did find your message after all CA, it must have been here all the time so I apologise for my senility!!
I haven't had a problem with the masts, they sit just right. Looking from the front they are straight except maybe for a wee bit of warp on the rear mast which does indeed slope very slightly backwards when viewing from the side. Can't say I notice much slope on the main though. The rear and mizzen (?) masts are indeed round pegs in square holes, the main required drilling the seating for if that makes sense.
My technique for the fairing was just a longish sanding block and sandpaper for the main hull and a smaller block for the bow and transom. I did use a small file a bit on the transom end formers. I didn't use a dremel as I find it a bit vicious though I might with the planking.  Once I had all the decks on the hull was quite rigid and stood up to my sanding abuse!! Bare in mind that the bow section on my kit is balsa blocks which are fitted and shaped after the first planking. I just hope my fairing so far is OK, time will tell.
It does occur to me CA that looking at you photos the two halves of your deck do not appear to be square. Is that me or because of your warping problems?
I can't believe that you drilled all those holes for imitation nails, I found it quite hard enough with a pencil.
For the deck planking I just put white glue on the ply only and then the planks. Unfortunately I have found that the veneer wood for the planks does vary quite a bit in width so you can't always rely on the sitting just right beside each other. Still, it all adds to challenge I guess!
 



 

Somehow I just know you are going to hate me but, I just cut my planks by hand using a cutting board with a grid. The first one I cut I use for the measure of all the rest to obtain consistency. I'll bet you wish like me that Dominic hadn't mentioned the slope on the masts. It could be HIS kit is wrong, but I rather doubt it. I am not quite sure what you mean about your mast twisting. As and when I get to actually putting mine in properly believe me, they wouldn't dare move or I would threaten them with the open fire!!
Anyway, thank you very much for the compliments. At least your good lady has a polite name for your boat. I have a couple in mind for mine but certainly not for public viewing!! Onwards!!!

Well I'm glad I used the carpenters glue even before I posted the question.  I never use the CA over a large area such as all the beams and decking.  Just too afraid of having it run and get on my fingers.  I really like painting on the white glue and I do thin it somewhat with an eye dropper for control.  I was asking what really was a moot point since I'd already done it, but I did not know the answer.  I'm glad everyone including Dan supports using carpenters in such situations.  Its been on there now a full day with clamps, so I think I'll take off the clamps and see how she is.
 
As for the gaps between decking and frames....I didn't think that was inherent to open hull planked models.  I thought it was due to my ineptitude in installing the frames, or because the cutting of the deck ply was just not very good.  I filled most of them on the holding deck and will probably do the same on this lower deck, since I have to fill a very narrow space between the two halves of deck over about 3 inches aft of the main mast.
 
Thanks for your compliments.  Slow and steady can get it done.

The AL kit looks nice judging from the photos - I haven't seen extensive photos of the OcCre one outside of Mike's build log......I'll have to do a bit more research....
hamilton

Wow, a few questions to answer there. Firstly, I did find your message after all CA, it must have been here all the time so I apologise for my senility!!
I haven't had a problem with the masts, they sit just right. Looking from the front they are straight except maybe for a wee bit of warp on the rear mast which does indeed slope very slightly backwards when viewing from the side. Can't say I notice much slope on the main though. The rear and mizzen (?) masts are indeed round pegs in square holes, the main required drilling the seating for if that makes sense.
My technique for the fairing was just a longish sanding block and sandpaper for the main hull and a smaller block for the bow and transom. I did use a small file a bit on the transom end formers. I didn't use a dremel as I find it a bit vicious though I might with the planking.  Once I had all the decks on the hull was quite rigid and stood up to my sanding abuse!! Bare in mind that the bow section on my kit is balsa blocks which are fitted and shaped after the first planking. I just hope my fairing so far is OK, time will tell.
It does occur to me CA that looking at you photos the two halves of your deck do not appear to be square. Is that me or because of your warping problems?
I can't believe that you drilled all those holes for imitation nails, I found it quite hard enough with a pencil.
For the deck planking I just put white glue on the ply only and then the planks. Unfortunately I have found that the veneer wood for the planks does vary quite a bit in width so you can't always rely on the sitting just right beside each other. Still, it all adds to challenge I guess!
 



 

Hello there, I am actually building the OcCre Bounty at the moment and have a build log in progress. No sure how to a link but I listed it as OcCre Bounty by Mike Dowling.
Hope this helps.

Hi Mike,
 
I haven't experienced planking or warping yet myself so I really haven't been able to offer any help or advice to your dilemmas.
 
BUT, I do have to agree that your decking looks fantastic!  I tried the pencil and white glue method myself but yours looks so much better!

Did you start the planking yet??????

CF, I am so very sorry not to have taken pictures of my mistake. I am pretty darn certain there are going to be a few more before I finish and I will make a special effort to preserve them on camera for your amusement. If I can, just because we are mates I will try to take a pic of my repair for you!
 
To S.Coleman (sorry to be so formal) it is indeed a monster and, whilst I do feel I have bitten off a good deal more than I can chew, I am going to enjoy doing it if it kills me!!!

Wow 1/45th! That going to be a monster. You almost have to erect scaffolding to work on her. Looks like you are doing a great job. Looks awesome.

If it feels unruly to handle the full length planks you can and should shorten them. All that matters for length is that they start and end at bulkheads to be glued down. It looks like some of the planks for the cut out side break this rule, but for good reason, to show off all your goodies on the inside.
 
Enough chit chat, I want pictures! You broke a cardinal rule! You made a mistake and did not take pictures of what went wrong nor how you fixed it!!!!!! Shame on you. We want dirty bits too. That way we learn.

Hi guys and gals! I'm back having completed my second deck!! A bit if a challenge owing to the 'bendy' character of wood but eventually all the bits fitted as required.
The dreaded planking gets ever closer and I am still trying to get my head round the procedure.
 
So far I understand 'fairing' the hull and don't have a problem with it. 'Lining off' is a different matter! Some people seem to advocate the use of temporary battens whilst others favour using string or similar. What I can't understand is that if you use battens without subjecting them to any lateral stress, they seem to me to sit differently from using string. The latter seems to be placing the string by eye for a pleasing curve rather than where the wood 'wants' to go. Help please!
 
Also, I assume when working out the number of planks that are needed I should measure the widest bulkhead which would be midships and divide that by the maximum width of the planking wood provided. Is that right?
 
I don't understand the purpose of a fan template. I can see that it would provide a regular taper but boats are not like that. It seems you would have to have one for the stem and one for the stern but the template starts at one point and expands theoretically to infinity so where do you start from. You see I am really struggling with the concept here!! More help please.
 
This becomes even more complicated with this particular kit and the 'nose' section of the boat is not fitted until after the first planking. It is eventually covered by the second planking.
 
The instructions advocate using as many straight pieces as possible and filling in the gaps afterwards with long wedge shaped pieces. Whilst I am sure this would do the job I am also sure that the good ship builders out there would throw up their hands in horror. What shall I do??
 
 
 

Hi everyone, at last some more pictures for you. As you can see, the whole framework has now been stained and the bottom deck cut, planked glued and varnished, cabins and bilge on top and beams ready for the next deck.
A couple of thoughts. Firstly despite what some would have us believe plywood does warp, badly!! Also CA glue does not like varnish at all. I must remember not to varnish the bits I have to glue afterwards!!
I find it hard to believe I have put in so many hours with not a lot to show for it all. Still it doesn't matter, it is a challenge and good fun.
 
Is 'kit bashing' when you get really fed up and smash it all to bits or is it altering the bits that should fit and do not or will not? If it is the latter than a good bash has been had already!.
 

Hi Mike, I am also a very new person to ship building I am trying to build the bounty, but from scratch, with no instructions ha.On the comment you made about the planking, I spoke to a good friend of mine who was in Merchant Navy as a Captain and as a Navigator and he told me that the pieces of planking that goes into the hull to make good, were in fact actually done which gave the planking tension and a truer fitting. hope this helps.

Well, rule of thumb with starting the planking, is it usually, (not always), starts level with the lowest upper deck. In the case of the Bounty, the main top deck as she is single level.
 
Start at the bow, and plank towards the stern. With the Bounty though check the plans as the planks slop up at the bow and don't simply follow the lay of the deck, they follow it towards the stern though.
 
Plank one strip on one side bow to stern, then do the same on the opposite side. And continue alternating like this. If you plank all on one side to start with, the pressure of the planks will pull the entire structure to one side, banana boat style.
 
It is a general guide though as individual ships all have slight differences in the way they should be planked.
 
 
Hope this helps ?

I think you are over analysing. Plus, remember that most kits aren't built in exactly the same way as the real things. They are PoB, Plank on Bulkhead, evenly spaced bulkheads, where as the majority of tall ships were really built using PoF, Plank on Frame, and there were a lot more frames and a lot closer together, plus in most cases were, as far as I am aware, planking internally as well as externally.
 
A simple google search will easily show you the differences:
 
Plank on Bulkhead
 
Plank on Frame
 
As for the exact answer to your question, no idea on that one sorry.

I answered this on your log but I'll repeat. Decided not to add anything that the kit doesn't call for. Unless of course its for strength or to correct some error (either mine or theirs).

I like your sense of humor. It will serve you well I think in the days and weeks to come. My wife and I were just poring over the pictures and plans that come with the kit and its very weird. The pictures on the huge box that it all comes it has something down there, whether or not its a deck or not is hard to tell. But the instructional photos show nothing more than a fwd/aft running beam that is fixed to the inner side of frames 8 and 9 (just forward of the holding well box. The picture shows a lot of barrels and bales heaped inside, resting only on the hull planking. I suppose this beam is to hold these barrels in (but they'll be glued). And in reality, I don't think these heavy barrels would have been allowed to sit just on the planking. But the plans show nothing; neither a deck or a beam. So just like you said, why make things more complicated than they already are. I'm going to move on with the work that I have in front of me and follow the plans/instructions as they've been written. Maybe someone with more naval history can provide an answer re the ballast cause I am still curious about that. And if they actually used something like stones (which they did), it would be easy enough to throw some pebbles in there.