Jump to content

ChrisLBren

Members
  • Posts

    694
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About ChrisLBren

  • Birthday 11/08/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Barrington

Recent Profile Visitors

3,232 profile views
  1. Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans. They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results. And less sanding !!! Chris
  2. No dovetails for me on the wing transom. They're not necessary and posed way too much of a risk when creating that part - and now even riskier now the assembly is complete ! Thanks for the advice on the extensions Mark.
  3. Thanks everyone - I will attempt the hawse extensions next. Im just trying to wrap my head around the approach and understanding the plans here. I believe one must plane the blanks to the proper angle first, then cut out the pattern. The biases are then added once the pieces are in a jig that depicts the tops of the extensions and their positions on the curve.
  4. Good morning Group, After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly. I probably built each part a half dozen times... Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?
  5. Hey Group, I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this. I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits. Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ? Thanks !
  6. Thanks for the tip Jaager - I just want a full proof finish on a fully framed model other than poly or tung - I may try some darker shellac flakes and or a wax finish to try to achieve the look I want with my pear wood. Stand by for some more tests.
  7. So far after two coats of 1lb blonde shellac on some scraps Im not happy with it - I think I will mix up to a 2lb cut. Its almost a "non finish" at this point after buffing in between coats with steel wool. I do like the pure tung oil finish better at this point however dont want to give up yet. I also understand many modelers use a wax finish as an alternative. I am a fan of more natural finishes than a poly finish. Any tips are appreciated as always.
  8. Hi Group, I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday. I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use. Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick. I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick. Any advice is appreciated ! Chris
  9. That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction. Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day
  10. Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues. I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever. Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing
  11. Hey Group, I am wondering if any of you have a tip for me here. Recently I had the saw's motor replaced by Jim and it was shipped back to me. Once I turn the power I noticed a rattling vibration noise where the motor plugs into the rear belt gear of the saw under the guard. After maybe no more than 10 or 15 seconds if I touch the belt guard its red hot. Something is causing friction back here obviously. The belt guard does look properly seated on the unit. I have an email into Jim - I know he's trying to take some time off right now. Any ideas are appreciated - I do not want to operate the saw until I can solve this issue. Chris
×
×
  • Create New...