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About ChrisLBren

  • Birthday 11/08/1969

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  1. Hi Mike - no LED strips - this build is a plank on bulkhead scratch build with the help of some of Chucks original carvings when he designed the kit for Model Expo - along with Rusty we were some of the first to build the prototype. And thanks for the complements everyone - it was a great adventure ! I have built my workshop with enough tools/power tools to tackle the next project which has to be a fully framed model as I have enough dimensioned Pear. I love the Winnie - but really want to stretch on a fully framed build. Her skeleton is complete - Chuck's plans and lazer cut
  2. So 4 years later after completition she looks better as the wood finish has deepend and aged. I know I should put her in a case - but she looks great as is.
  3. Personally I prefer Swiss Pear - bought a flitch of it a few years ago from this business https://www.rarewoodsusa.com/ I do own a 10 inch Dewalt saw, along with the Byrnes tools - but what I have very helpful is having a relationship with a cabinet maker. My resource lives close by and with their industrial equipment can break down boards to useable dimensions. Its much cheaper than buying pre dimensioned wood and less messy in terms of saw dust.
  4. Group - I order number 14 needle rasps kit back in August - handmade and stitched. They arrived last week - wow - I can not recommend them highly enough. I corresponded directly with the owner/artist Noel - during the manufacturing process. They are not cheap but will last a lifetime if taken care of. Here's his site. https://www.liogier-france.fr/
  5. Looking good Rusty - your instincts are right with Pear -I am a big fan of more of a monochromatic look - especially with the bright friezes.
  6. Hey Group, I know I saw a comment recently about files and a certain manufacturer that makes the best ones for our modeling purposes. Can anyone share a link ? Thanks much, Chris
  7. Gents - Ive been lurking and watching all of the builds progress nicely ! Between honey dos with the improved weather in April and May and an eczema flair on my hands this month - I haven't spent much time in the shop. As soon as my hands feel better - its like having a bad case of poison oak - Ill be back at it. Thanks for checking in ! Hope you're all healthy and safe, Chris
  8. Hi Group, Quick question - wondering if there is an optimum speed when using your Proxxon MF70. The pear wood I am using has a tendency to chip - any tips as to running at higher or slower speeds to avoid it ? Thanks
  9. Go with this Dewalt Scroll Saw 788 and Stand - no vibration. I somehow managed to scratch build Confederacy with a crappy Delta saw that had so much vibration. The Dewalt is a game changer https://www.grizzly.com/products/DeWalt-DW788-20-Scroll-Saw-with-Stand-and-Light/H7414?gclid=CjwKCAjw-YT1BRAFEiwAd2WRtgYQQy5pOwsZ7zKRoJVJzvSMlFpfwgzXx7z0GxEmpHPZu1i0UMuzRRoCcikQAvD_BwE
  10. Wow - just wow - I have been collecting Ancre books and Monographs over the past few years. This is by far the finest. The incredible amount of detail in photos and plans are off the chart. Some of the previous Monographs require back up of the 74 Gun Series (which I own) as a reference. This one is a stand alone - everything is in here to make an incredible model - one that obviously influenced the Super Frigates of the US. I ordered it two weeks ago and it arrived today. I can't recommend this one enough - its a must have for anyone's library who love French ships. Bravo Gerard !
  11. Finally an update ! (Without photos) 50 degree day here in Chicago and spent 2 hours fairing the hull. The one thing that’s genius about the laser char is it’s an easy guide to help with the process. As much as many feel this part is a pain - I like to take as much time as possible here - it makes all of the difference. Probably another 6 hours of work before photos !
  12. Nice work Mike ! Now that it may be finally thawing here - I can start fairing my hull and hope my planking turns out nearly as good as yours...
  13. Im really curious about the paper patterns - how do you not get glue bubbles when applying and also would it be possible to put a finish over them ( dont think that would work due to printer ink)
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