JPett

Ahoy Brian

The extra effort you have made to document sources in your posts has become a wealth of information for me on my build and I am sure others. Thank you

I do not see why you could not go with the water. Worst case the glue fails and the problematic wood comes off. Best case, it softens up both the wood and the glue and they dry in the proper shape.

On my side build, I used paper towels soaked in warm water to correct planks that did not conform. I use the original Titebond, which is not waterproof. I had no issues with them ungluing completely or coming apart. On my Ratt, I have used water to remove planks but also had to apply heat. It is my belief that it was the heat gun, which actually allowed me to remove the planks, not the water. I think that water alone might have worked, but only after a considerable amount of time soaking. Something measured in days.

PS: Consider distilled water. I use filtered water but have noticed some staining.

Looking forward to seeing the planking stage

Ahoy Buck  

The whaleboat looks great. Your attention to detail and workmanship are really making a difference.

Thank you for posting the shellac tips. They were very helpful to me on my side build.

Ahoy Eric  

For now, I would just tape the basswood pieces back in to protect the deck supports. I am now replacing them on my build, as I have broken all but one.

Some multible times  

Ahoy Martin

The shipyard has been relocated in the closet of the new guest room. I think the move will be permanent LOL

Ahoy Floyd

I looked at your log http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/677-harvey-by-floyd-kershner-al-pof-148-1812-baltimore-clipper/?p=8598

Your ship has similar lines to my Rattlesnake build. As I am no expert or have ever finished planking a hull, can only offer what I have found so far. First you can spil the kit supplied planks in the bow where they taper. Just not as much as with a wider piece. Second, your measurement on the first bulkhead of 1" for 16 planks does not sound correct. I used the plans and made a template of the bow section then used this to measure and create the tick marks for each belt to get a reference point.

This is how I am now doing my hull. I made strips for each bulkhead and like you, measured them, dividing them into belts. I also did the planks but this was a mistake. I found it easier to first do the belts (you can do every other bulkhead too). Once you have your marks for the belts, use a strip of wood thinner then your planking (batten) that you can easily bend around the hull. The thinner wood acts more like the planking after it has been soaked. Pay attention to how the batten wants to lie. If they are curving up too much check the outline of your hull (another one of my problems) with templates. These battens do not have to follow your tick marks, just be close. Once they are set and there is adequate spacing from bow to stern for all the planks, mark all the bulkheads using the battens. Then transfer these measurements to your tick strips and use them to determine the plank widths for each belt. Next, mark the entire hull so you can see how all the planks will run (another mistake I made). I did not do this on Belt A and paid dearly. I found this way to be a lot of work but worth every minute once I started planking the next belts. Use a hard 4B pencil and make light easy to erase marks at first. Plan on doing some erasing

If your ship is actually similar to my Ratt, the stem is not the hard part. For me the stern where the planks my go from wide to thin then flare out was the most challenging

Hope this helps and happy planking. Remember, this is only what I am doing and I have very little experience so it could be flawed. Maybe someone with more knowledge can review this and comment. It would help me too.

Ahoy Mates

Augie: No Cell, I call that a blessing. A mile huh, another blessing “LOL”  

SRC: NP Could be a while for those pics. I see my Pandora has a hunk of Britannia for an ars end but that might be a year or two away. I will see if 

I can find something else and do another post in the Painting, Staining, and Bleaching forum.

MD11pilot:  I am only following the trail blazed on MSW V1, which was very helpful to me. Your compliment did make me feel good about the effort, thank you.

Mario: Lurk away, your always welcome here.

Martin: When I first mounted it, I was dumbfounded. It looked like my Ratt was wearing a mouse hat. In all fairness to Model Shipways, I had over sanded her a little back there for some jeans and this did accentuate the problem. After seeing how Mamoli and Hahn handled this, I opted for a change. This led me to the research I found on the high seas trickery, then some hot water, and a vise. Oh yes and let us not forget another 30 or so hours. I still have still have the window frames which I have been putting off.

Zev: I would not be surprised to find this transom trick on a very long list

Build Update:

With company on its way the shipyard has been converted (or is being) to a temporary shelter (bedroom) and hopefully will be restored in the next two weeks. Until then I have a gift that needs to be finished. I look at her every day

Ahoy MSW

Found this link below and thought it might be helpful to others.

http://www.thenrg.org/resources/articles/The%20carronade.pdf

Ahoy Sport29652

Just found your log.

The bulkheads are not a big deal. Stick with the reference lines, shim and sand them so they are correct. Just make sure your lines are right. The hull being off an 1/8" I am not sure about. This may cause problems down the road when you need to take measurements from the plans. It would equal 8" on the real ship. Model Expo will replace it no charge if that has to happen.

Realize that this project could take you 500 hours so do not rush right now or it will just take longer.

I would suggest you wait for some others to respond before you mount the bulkheads. I will send some PM's. Work on something else, cannons, deck furniture, masts, cleaning up the Britannia.

Ahoy Mario

Looking forward to  "take 2"

Thanks Mark

I did not realize the Proxxon was so small. I do like the speed as compared to the other models. My research on mills confirmed that for smaller parts a higher speed was preferred; I also noticed B.E. uses one.

Hummm

It is available in 110V too

I really need to hit that lottery

Ahoy Mark

I noticed you did not mention the Proxxon MF 70 which has a continuously variable speed from 5,000 - 20,000 rpm and sells for around 400. I ask only because this is on my list

http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/27110.php

Ahoy Mates

Has anyone used this or a similar product? My needs are small in this category and this looks perfect

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669

Ahoy Mates

Augie: Always nice to see you aboard.

Mark: Very interesting Thank you

I find it hard to believe in a time where there was no internet, cell phones, or 24 hour news that they could ever get away with this tom foolery. LOL

My question is, does anyone know of any information documenting this was the case for the Rattlesnake’s transom.

Ahoy Augie

I for one am appreciative of the slow down. I will miss this log once your masterpiece is completed. Sorry I know its selfish

Anja: I think Augie might be majoring in RC aircraft with a minor in fishing 

Ahoy RiverRat

Thank you the compliment on my log and pointing out this error in the rebuild of it. The original post read “It seems the Rattlesnake may have had an enlarged transom to deceive enemy ships as to her size, Hummm, this never happens in warfare”. Somehow, in the rush to rebuild my log after the crash I misquoted myself. The statement was purely conjecture, loosely based on readings regarding privateers of this period and the MSW Rattlesnake’s transom being “oversized”. Thanks for pointing this out. I have “edited” and corrected post #9

Ahoy Mario

I will echo in here with my condolenses on the loss of this build.

I look forward to seeing you back here when it is right for you

Best wishes to you in whatever you choose to do.

Ahoy Sam

Sorry no pic, I will see what I can do about this later on. This process takes a few days to do right.

For now

1) Clean up the part, (sand, file, patch)  Britannia can be pretty bad sometimes. I use thick CA to fill holes and for repairs. You can build up layers using the CA and accelerators to fix some really ugly stuff.

2) Clean the part. I use dishwashing soap and a toothbrush. Needs to be nice and clean. Let dry

3) Prime. Then let dry for one day. Check it and make sure it looks acceptable. Fix any problems and repeat step three or if its good, go to step four.

4) Paint the whole thing with gloss enamel. Remember, this will be the color you want to expose. Let dry for one to two days (2 is best). For the best results thin the paint and do two or three coats. Must dry one day between each coat. I cannot over state how important it is for this coat to be fully dry or cured.

5) Paint the whole thing with any color (flat or gloss) water based paint (acrylic)

6) Once dry use Q-tips lightly moistened with Acrylic thinner and gently wipe the area where you want to expose the base color. Use as little thinner as possible. It should not run off the Q-tip. As soon as the thinner activates the paint and it starts to come off on the Q-tip; switch to a new gently moistened Q-tip. If the process gets out of hand switch to water. If it is too slow, you can use enamel thinner (but be very careful, as this will activate the base coat). Just remember it happens slowly. The thinner will reactivate the paint on top and you will wipe it off exposing the color underneath it.

Remember. Practice first; it is still a technique, but it is an easy one. A good thing about Britannia: If you completely screw up the paint, use thinner and strip it back down to the metal, and start over.

Ahoy Mark 

I paint my custom wooden shipyard tools with thin CA. Adds some strength and most importantly the PVA glues do not stick to them. For your little "clippies" I would sprinkle some salt on the paws after applying the CA. Once the CA dries, wash away the salt and they will have some teeth.

Ahoy  Zev 

I used Testors but it shouldn't matter. I have done this before with different brands. The base just needs to be enamel and the top has to be water based. Yes you paint the whole thing in both colors and wipe one off the raised surfaces.

EDIT: Just found your link. NO. Glad you brought this up. NO FLATS. must be a semi or gloss (gloss is best) The flat acts like primer and will grip the top coat. If you want a flat finish use a flat clear coat after you are done. If your color is not available in gloss you must do another coat of clear gloss enamel before your second color.

Two things

1) Most importantly "Test first"

2) Let the primer and the base color each dry for no less then 24 hours. The longer the better. This is VERY important. They must be fully cured. The top color you are removing should not be allowed to cure. Wipe it off after about an hour.

Well maybe three

If the acrylic thinner isn't doing it, you can use a tiny amount of enamel thinner on a  Q-tip, just be gentle. If the base coats are fully cured, it won't affect it right away.

Mine is not done. When I finish planking I will do another flood coat with the blue, thinned (a lot), a little black mixed in to make a dark "lowlight", it will fill the cracks and make the blue "pop". Another wipe on the brass if needed, then a light dry brush with a lightened brass. Then the clear coat. This will give it lots of depth so it plays well with the wood tones. (I hope)

Google plastic modeling tips. There are some videos on this process.

Ahoy MSW

Patrick: I want them in steel to use as a guide for my knife. I have already cut into the plastic.

Chuck: Welcome aboard, my build has only reached this point because of the hard work and effort you and others have put in to make this site a reality. Thank you

Ben: I have to agree, in the beginning I was so intimidated by just planking it took some serious arm-twisting (or should that be plank twisting) for me to make this leap. In the end, it was not as hard as I thought.

Sport29652: Thanks for the compliment and stopping by. I had the same problem. It seems to be common issue with kits.

First; double-triple check your work. I would use the reference lines and shim or sand the bulkheads as necessary. The bulkheads are on the plans, use these to make templates to check your work. Also; the supplied basswood planking makes a great shim. Soak it for about 15 minutes in hot water and then pin it to the bulkhead. Once dry, glue it on, and sand to shape. There is a pic in my post #3. The batten test that follows is very important; every plank needs to make full contact with every bulkhead along the full length of the hull. The best advice I could ever give you is to start a build log here @ MSW.

SketchupModeller: “Get back to shipbuilding”  Did Augie put you up to this???

Ahoy Bob

If you are going to paint these parts I have found applying a coat of thin CA can add a considerable amount of strength to Basswood

I tack the part to a toothpick and drizzle the CA all over it. Be generous and let it soak in while rotating the part. Dab it to a paper towel to remove any excess. Once dry, sand it smooth. Make sure the part is "completely dry" before touching it  "LOL"

Other then that suggestion I am with Russ, harder wood.

Ahoy Augie

Beauiful work, Congratz,

Following your build has been inspiring. Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.

Ahoy Bob

Blue Ensign has a post you might find useful

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/152-le-superbe-by-blue-ensign-heller-plastic-built-as-le-praetorian-after-boudriot/?p=16686

Ahoy Rusty

Inspiring build. Your craftsmanship really highlights the beauty of this ship

Thanks for sharing it.

Ahoy B.E.  

"YOU DA MAN"

Thank you