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Chuck Seiler

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  1. Thanks!
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Estaban,
        I am a big fan of placing one figure in a strategic location to give perspective.  I do feel, though, that the use of a base detracts.  In the past I have placed a small hole in one or both feet and pinned the figure to the deck.  Will discuss in 2 weeks.
  2. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Always sir!   I love that figure example - I've been shipboard in that exact pose so I can relate! 🤣🤣🤣
     
    I might try to add a small clear base to the figures so they could be placed or removed at will.  It will be interesting to try to paint them and get a good outcome.  I doubt I would glue them down - I've done two plastic aircraft carrier builds in recent times and have yet to glue an aircraft or support equipment to the deck! 
     
    And yes, after having empty decks on the Prince all this time, 6 figures seems alot.  It is difficult to fathom 50+ men and boys on deck for an engagement, maybe 5 per gun?
     
    Thanks for the thoughts!
  3. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Link to the part that disintegrated after a vinegar experiment.  Terrifying!
     

     
  4. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Dr PR in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Part of the problem with the white pot metal (pewter?) fittings used on older models came from the cases they were mounted in. Some of the woods or finishes gave off acetic acid fumes. The cases were air tight, so the acid fumes built up and turned the metals (zinc, lead and tin) into metal acetate salt powders.
     
    The moral of the story is to use acid free materials and ventilate the cases.
  5. Thanks!
  6. Thanks!
    Chuck Seiler reacted to palmerit in 'Oseberg' Viking Ship (v3) by James H - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/25   
    I ordered my Oseberg directly from Pavel Nikitin and was able to have them include the patina and stain kit. I don't know if you can also get that if you order their models from other resellers.
  7. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    I remember seeing a model in a museum in the LA area where the 'pot metal' parts had all disintegrated into piles of grayish-white dust.  I was told they were the lead fitting used a loooong time ago.  I think the newer mystery metals such as Britannia don't do that (at least in my lifetime). 
  8. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to palmerit in Byrnes table saw and second planking material.   
    Ultimation makes a great hand chopper and hand sander: 
    https://ultimation.ca/collections/all-products
     
    This is the one Olga highlighted on her YouTube channel I believe.
     
    Note the blade for the chopper are not proprietary. They're just a particular kind of single-bevel blade I think used in upholstery. I ordered extras directly from them when I ordered my chopper because it was easier than hunting for them elsewhere.
     
    I use both the chopper and sander quite a bit. They're small and I can just set them on my work table when I'm using them and easily set them aside when I don't need them (on another table or on the floor). 
  9. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Nirvana in Byrnes table saw and second planking material.   
    Richard, I am a little confused - do you have a Byrnes Table saw or not?
    That is my first question as the machines aren't available anymore for the moment.
    The Byrnes table saw is powerful enough for crosscut using a sliding table. But for thin cuts you have other options.
    In your situation there is Shortline Chopper II
    I have the original one based on the paper-wood board. I would recommend the new chopper or other electric cutters that are available,
  10. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Keith Black in where to buy brass (or other metal) pedestals and what kind to buy   
    https://www.amazon.com/Model-Shipways-Pedestal-Brass-28mm/dp/B097C8MR42/ref=asc_df_B097C8MR42?mcid=f6a6e7708458395cab9593de10160427&hvocijid=16410595949143541372-B097C8MR42-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16410595949143541372&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019476&hvtargid=pla-2281435178058&psc=1
     
    https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/msw/msw813.htm?source=froogle&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_tmOSTh7S6ie6D1GQOEwMtTRtvp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItKfR8cbsjAMV_EH_AR1WOS8UEAQYAiABEgLPZ_D_BwE
     
    https://www.bluejacketinc.com/cases-pedestals-baseboards/
  11. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    @SaltyScot  So far so good Mark!
     

     
    Constructo non-magnetic mystery metal, blued by dipping in Brownell's Gun Blue, rinsed with copious amounts of fresh water, and finally oiled with RemOil and Ballistol.
     
    They're black as night and don't leave any residue on the white paper towel, so hopefully we're good to go.
  12. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Thanks Chuck!  Means a lot coming from you sir!  I used some nylon fly tying line.  I pretended I was done with breeching lines but I need to do two more for her chase guns.  
  13. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Glen McGuire in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Those rope seizings look really good.
  14. Thanks!
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    Those rope seizings look really good.
  15. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to No Idea in pin vise and drill bits   
    Just my experience but I have tried different types of pin vices and found some to be lacking for my needs.  The clamping action in many is just so poor that it makes the whole job so much harder.  I settled on the Starrett and they have now given me years of trouble free work so I would recommend these.
     
    As for the bits I only buy cobalt bits now - they are strong and stay sharp for ages.  They will also plow through brass and stainless steel without any problems.
  16. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer   
    @Dr PR I think I saw the same post - that's what got me thinking.
     
    Initially I was swabbing on the blue but in the end dipped them with a stainless forceps.  I will take due care sir!
     
    Hopefully the anchors survive - they look good right now. 
  17. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Mr Whippy in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship   
    I had similar results with my hold, but for different reasons.  Test staining of structural pieces (frames) proved less than satisfactory.  I ended up using wood dye (brown in the lower areas and a mix of brown and golden yellow above deck).  The brown was darker than I wanted but the brown/golden yellow got me close to what I wanted.  I went with B/GY on the deck beams.  My planking stain will be Golden Pecan rather than Golden Oak.
     
        At the end of the day, the 'rustic' lower deck may work out well.  The various colored barrels give the cargo and lower deck a well used look.  ...although if you are looking for pristine, that may not be what you want.
     
        Why did you go with Miniwax Poly BEFORE you stained?  It seemed to me that would inhibit penetration.
  18. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to James H in 'Oseberg' Viking Ship (v3) by James H - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/25   
    There's just too many of them to contemplate anything other than a black material. That'd need to be resin, and I'd need several thousand of them. 
     
    I think it's a pass on this now. I'll just build and stain as out of box as I've HMS Surprise starting in the not too distant future. 
  19. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Siggi52 in The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50   
    Hello,
    I set in all the deck beams and most of the stantions. At the second picture you see, that the underwater ship has it's broadest pard one or two meters infront of the mast. The beams are at least 97-100 cm apart from each other.


    Greatings also from the ships cat. He is getting old now (18) and enjoys the warm weather we have here the last days.

     
  20. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Siggi52 in The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50   
    Thank you Ian and Chuck. Chuck, the nails/rivets are pencil marks 😇
  21. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Another garboard strake question.   
    You are correct.  That was a poor representation of what I was trying to get at.  The updated drawing is probably better.  The key is dry fitting a plank or cardboard template so that it snugs into the curve of the stem.  As you say, the upper edge should be straight.  It will be a natural fit.

  22. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Help and suggestions needed   
    Is this going to be double planked ( second layer of thin planking over the first), a single planked painted or single planked stained?
  23. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Siggi52 in The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50   
    Siggi,
        Amazing work!  What are you using for nails/rivets?
  24. Like
    Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Keith Black in The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50   
    Siggi,
        Amazing work!  What are you using for nails/rivets?
  25. Like
    Chuck Seiler reacted to Siggi52 in The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50   
    Hello John and Richard, thank you.
     
    Richard, because I could't build the ship like the Vikings, I build the planks over a plug and take the frames also from that plug, as seen in one picture. And yes, I had to fit the planks to the frames because they sorted themself into a comfortable way and did't stay in the way they where build at the plug. But it was not soo much I had to correct.
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