Chuck Seiler

Chuck,
    Obvious from your videos, one of the keys to getting it right is ensuring the garboard strake is the correct length. This is something I struggle with.  Is there any rule of thumb regarding where it ends?

Chuck,
    Obvious from your videos, one of the keys to getting it right is ensuring the garboard strake is the correct length. This is something I struggle with.  Is there any rule of thumb regarding where it ends?

Chuck,
    Obvious from your videos, one of the keys to getting it right is ensuring the garboard strake is the correct length. This is something I struggle with.  Is there any rule of thumb regarding where it ends?

Part two was just some questions and answers.  But I was a little rushed.   Usually we dont have enough time to devote what is needed for the whole presentation.  But here it is anyway.
 
I am not sure if it adds anything more to part one.....but here it is.   Its hard to hear the questions being asked.   Most of the conversation in the middle revolves around someone asking me about a hull with many drop planks and or stealers as described in another authors practicum...just putting them in wherever and whenever.  Hopefully that will make the audio make more sense.
 

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

The Board of Directors of the NRG has decided it would be a good idea to let our members know a little about ourselves.  As you will see, your current Directors and Secretary come from diverse backgrounds and have varied interests.  Some of the names you will recognize, others you will not.  Even if a name is unfamiliar to you, please know that this is a hands-on Board and each Director contributes a substantial amount of time and sometimes money to the Guild, time that would otherwise go towards our passion of model ship building.

Phil Roach
 
I have practiced law since 1988 and have had a private law practice in Bonita Springs since 1994. I graduated with a Bachelor of Arts Degree from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1985 and then attended Campbell University School of Law where I received my Juris Doctorate (J.D.) degree in 1988. Following graduation I moved from my hometown of Fayetteville, N.C. to become a full time resident of Southwest Florida. I belong to the Collier County Bar Association and the Florida Bar. I have been married to my wife Marina since 1988 and we have two children, Nicholas and Elizabeth.
 
I am an active member of the Rotary Club of Bonita Springs Noon and am currently serving on the Board of Directors. My prior service to the Club includes holding the position of President, Club Rotary Foundation Committee Chairman and I have served on the Board of Directors for various terms over my more than 20 year membership in the club.
I am also an active member of the Southwest Florida Ship Modelers’ Guild and I currently hold the position of President. I also served as liaison to the Nautical Research Guild for the Regional Conference previously held in Fort Myers, Florida.
 
I enjoy American history and its maritime heritage. My modeling interests are sailing ships and lately, that interest is gravitating backwards in time to vessels of the Revolutionary War period, vessels of the Colonial era, and the vessels of exploration of the North American Continent. Although my full time practice of law forbids me from modeling as much as I would like, I very much enjoy the research.  My MSW screen name is roach101761.
 

Toni Levine
 
Like so many of us, I started building models when I was a child.  The first model I remember building was a Monogram F6F-5 Hellcat which was originally given to my brother but it seemed that the “girl” had more aptitude for this than he did.  My first ship models were small Scientific carved hull models which I built during high school.  Model building was then shelved for several years while I completed my education (BS and MD from the University of Illinois) and residency training (Northwestern University).  My first plank-on-bulkhead model was Peregrine Galley by Mantua.  It is my only model built with a full coat of sails.  Over the years, my projects progressed from out-of-the-box kits to kit-bashing and finally scratch building.  My current project is Atalanta, a Swan-class sloop built in the fully framed style popularized by David Antscherl. 
 
I have been a physician since 1980 and specialize in otolaryngology (ear, nose and throat).  Like so many of us, my career prevents me from spending much time building ships.  I am a member of the Nautical Research and Model Society of Chicago and have been a member of the NRG since 1989 and a Director since 2013.  I live in the Chicago area with my husband.  My other interests include gardening, water gardening and home brewing.  My MSW screen name is tlevine.
 

KURT!  KURT!   KURT!  KURT!

William M. “Mike” Lonnecker. 
 
I am a retired engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME) from the University of Kansas. I worked in Texas and California as a Program Manager and Project Engineer in the Defense and Aerospace Industry until retiring in 2002. I currently reside in Poway (San Diego) California with Sandy, my wife of 44 years.
 
My interests have included woodworking, flying sailplanes, sailing, hot rodding and modeling all types of “vehicles”. I have been a student of design, modeling and building projects since completing my first plastic model car at age 6 or 7.  I now prefer to work on 1: 48 scale ship models of the late 18th century and am building my fourth ship model, The FLY, using David Antscherl’s Swan series of books.
 
I am a member of the San Diego Ship Modelers’ Guild and serve as Guild Master (President). I am also an active member of the Ship Modelers Association of Fullerton (SMA) and, of course, am a Director of the NRG where I am also chair of the mentor program and am currently mentoring one member. I enjoy sharing my modeling and machining skills with other modelers and regularly give demonstrations at club meetings and invite other members to my shop to work out difficult problems or aid new modelers with their projects.  My MSW screen name is Mike.
 

I think I just left them alone.

Thanks Chuck. It actually turned out better then I expected. I used high heat paint for bbq's! Lol! I actually enjoyed building the gun stuff. Yeah the rigging should be interesting! 

Gosh...I got a sled for Christmas. 
 
 

 

 
This does not have a sawcut all the way thru the bed yet.  I did my initial cuts with a larger blade.  I will make my final cut with my .030 slitting blade, the one I will use with this.
 
My thanks to Krug for his directions.

Here is the 12 pounder.. 

Yeah I like the way they look. 

I think I just left them alone.

Hi Cuck...Heres a question, is it advisable to use a clear coat (satin) on the cannons? or leave alone? Not glossy, just a light coat to protect finish?
Thanks!  Steve

For some reason, I am not getting email notifications on the builds I am following, so I did not see this earlier.
 
As I have told Steve, I have stalled on this project because I am obsessing over the nails.  Your nailing looks pretty good...although I think you are using 1 less nail/plank/strake (based on Smithsonian ship).  While not historically correct, after looking at your pics, I am thinking about going with the reduced number of nails.

Planking progress continues.  As previously reported, I am running some tests on nail patterns.  I decided to go with black monofiliment line.  I think I figured half inch nails would have been .020".  I got close to that with .5MM (.0198"). 
 
My first test was on boxwood planking the same size (width) a on the model.  On the primary width planks I went with the standard 4 nails and a couple spots with 3 nails.  Using #76 drill bit, I made my holes, dipped the line end in Weldbond glue and inserted it into the holes.  Some I snipped off immediately and some I let dry first.

 
In all cases there was some glue residue and (more importantly) the nail head made the nail more noticeable than I wanted.  After the rig had an hour t dry, I sanded don with very fine sand paper.
 

Here it is again from a further distance.  I am not wild about it.  I think the nails are too prominent.
 
I will stain the wood with pecan and see again.  I will also insert nails in the other side after it is stained to see if there is any difference in appearance.

A couple more thoughts:
 
1.  I am at the point where I need to decide whether or not I want to show nails-all, some, none.  I have some black mono filament that I will be using.  My main concern is that the nailing overwhelms the model.  I think t should be subtle.  I will be doing some testing over the next few weeks.  Will advise.
 
2.  As I was looking ahead, I noticed the instruction does not cover assembly of the cook stove (at least I could not find it).  The plan shows it.  Parts are provided to build it.  The instructions do not discuss it.  I recommend you build it and install it BEFORE installing the mast partner. 

John,
 
    Welcome aboard!  That certainly falls into the "gee, if I only had a time machine and go back to look" category.  I don't know if you had a chance to take a look at all of my scratch log.  I go into to detail starting at a later post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/?p=173370 and going on for several posts. 
 
    Where you see it in the Smithsonian display is where it was found when the ship was raised.  The way that it was raised left everything pretty much in tact...even little things that might normally get washed away were still on deck...like human teeth (eeuuyywww!!!).  This means that is where it was when the ship sunk and where it was at the time of the battle.  This is good evidence to indicate that is where it normally was.  However, there is also evidence that it may have been used in the forward cockpit as well (charring on the underside of the mast partner).  Because of cramped conditions and the hazards it created, actual use of the stove in the forward cockpit seems awkward as well. 
 
    My approach?  I put it in the cockpit in my scratch build.  I may experiment with putting it on deck this time.
 
    To me, it seems like having it on deck during the battle would have been awkward and in the way...but there it was.  Is it possible that it was normally stowed (and sometimes used) in the cockpit but in this case was on deck on the morning of 11 October, and they were unable to get it stowed in time?  Who knows.  You could put it in either location and be correct.  The on deck location is probably MORE correct because we know it was there.  The cockpit location is only speculation.

Hey Chuck, any advice on using the blacken it on the guns? the stuff worked great on the eyebolts etc. But the larger items... well wanted to ask.
Oh... Go Hawks!

http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Philadelphia+of+1776
A couple of pics of my Philadelphia planking.  I used a mechanical pencil with constant diameter lead.  The scale is so large I think the blandness of the basswood needs something to keep it interesting.  I'm not sure if I'll do the same with the interior plank, but almost certainly will do the deck plank the same way.
At the bottom are guns, Floquil Engine Black for tthe barrels and other hardware.
Pic below also.

 
The Smithsonian has done a 3D scan of the Philadelphia, very interesting.  You can drag with your mouse, expand/contract with the scroll wheel, and there is a measuring tape feature.
 
http://3d.si.edu/explorer?modelid=47
 
Joel Sanborn

Phil:
I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.
 
Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.
 
Kurt

A scalpel handle is the only thing for scalpel blades. Tip: use a pair of pliers when changing blades: it's much safer than fingers!