*Hans*

Tribute.
 
Because my wife is a little bit afraid she is loosing me a little bit because of the Batavia (which is not true  of course) i sculpted  one of the heads on deck to her image: 
 

 
 

Another nice photo I'd forgotten to post.
 

I'm going up and down in the things I'm doing.  Stopped with the rigging and started with the rudder:
 
Out of a beech stir stick for paint I made the rudder (two layers glued on each onder. The smaller part was a square stick of balsa in the right dimension. After that a small brass strip cut in the right dimension, and soldered brass pins on it:
 

 
Then the strip made in the right lenght:
 

 
drilled holes in it (1 mm) and with small nails attached the hinges to the rudder:
 

 
The other part of the hinge - which goes on the ship (excuses for the bad photo)
 

 
And finaly the rudder completed - all the hinges on it - made dark with some brass-black.
 

 
I just have to fill out the small gaps on the front side of the rudder - between the hinges

Although the hull and all its parts are not finished yet I already did start with the masts.
 
The carvings on the stern and gallery of the ship, the rudder and som rail still have to be made, but I like the view of a model with some masts on it.
 

Update.
 
Busy on the structure on the ship, all done in oak sticks of 4 x 4 mm - cut in length - with dowels and coppernail mounting.
 
Not really boring, but not the most exciting job to do.  Just some pictures:
 

 
structure for the third row of seats
 

 
Impressive view
 
and
 

 

 

New set of pictures:
 
Bow - including reinforcement is getting in shape more and more:
 

 

 

 
On the inside the structure for the second row of seats is mounted. For the small view you might have inside I have added some extra vertical planks. The original frames will be removed.
 

 

I have to make a big apologize to all the readers - because I made a big mistake in scale.
 
The Batavia on the picture is 1:72 - but the Trireme is 1:35 (the original kit is 1:72)  - ooopppsss 
 
This means the trireme is "only" about 35 meters or 100 feet..
 
Here some pictures for a better idea - the bireme and the trireme
 

 

 

I do not only hit the like button as many times as possible because this is a nice topic, but also really like all the electrics you are doing!
 
It's a bit like electrickery (with copyrights on this for Catweazle)

I do not only hit the like button as many times as possible because this is a nice topic, but also really like all the electrics you are doing!
 
It's a bit like electrickery (with copyrights on this for Catweazle)

Thank you @KeithAug, @mtaylor, @BANYAN, @prutser, @Jack12477, and @*Hans* for your reactions. Much appreciated.
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Started building the boat vane.
The gap in the table is 3 mm, and I am using 2 mm aluminium plate for the vane.
Electrical connections, or tracks, must reach the boat from under the table, to operate the nav lights.
A printed circuit board (PCB) is 1.5mm thick, leaving a 0.5 gap if the PCB is mounted within the aluminium plate.
So here is my attempt to create this by-pass.

The slots in the vane is to allow bulkheads to fit in.

Making brackets for both the PCB and the base plate.

Made the PCB and attached it to the vane. 

Have ordered some parts to further my progress with the vane section.
Will return to this later-on in this build log.

Added deckhands having a conversation.

 
The name of the boat is BINGAL, named after the aboriginal name of the place before Wardell (where the bridge is). Bingal reminds me of the word 'bingle', which means 'collision'. The boat is a collision of sorts with two bow sections. To play with the words, an added bingle occured on deck as well.
 
Altered a plastic figure to make him look as if he tripped over the rope.

Something that might be of interest to tell:
Oak was never used for decks, because it becomes very slippery when wet.
Pine etc. doesn't get slippery when wet. Therefore decks on model ships are always done in light wood.

Wow, thank you @BANYAN, @Louie da fly, @DaveRow, @hexnut, @KeithAug, and @Jack12477 for your responses and 'likes'.
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Okay, here comes my first boat build.
It is a boat that traverses under the bridge. It travels up and down stream but does not do a u-turn. So when it comes back it is not to look as if it were revesing. To get around this, I bought two wooden boat kits so I can make a boat of symmetry, a boat with two bow sections.
 

 
I cut the keels, decks, and cabin walls in half. Glued bow sections together. Started planking the boat.
Could not justify buying a planking iron, so I used a method seen on the Internet. It simply used a tea-candle and a tin can. This worked fast and efficiently. Was able to heat bend the planks to curvature of hull quite easily.

 
Determined the waterline and marked the bulkheads, using the cabin ceiling as the horizon.
Then I planked the waterline and built up the planking in between.

 
Then I filleted the boat like a fish. Sanded the base flat and smooth.

Thanks for encouraging words.
 
Steven, be careful not to touch the can, it gets very hot. Best to clamp can to table top, with a thin piece of wood in between.Then hold one end of plank against the tin can with the edge of a flat screwdriver. Then after a few seconds, apply pressure down on other end of plank with hand. The rest you will work out for yourself to your needs.
 
The funny thing is, I already used a similar setup for keeping my coffee mug hot, in winter, in my work area.
You will notice it has two triangular inlet air vents, and a series of holes across the top to keep the air fllowing. Otherwise the candle light sufficates. Believe me, it took several attempts, on the same tin can, to get the air flow just right. It sure keeps my cuppa nice and hot.
 

 
 

Yeah, he is a bit desperate....
I think the Dutch lion was a bit more fierce in that days.

Sorry - I do have one of the Lion. It was small so it is a bit photoshopped
 

Piet,  I made a few pictures (but unfortunately not of the Lion),  can send them to you. Please have a look on my website (kolderstok.com) and reply via the given email on that site. I can send you the pictures then.

Hello all. I've been busy since my last post to this thread. Some may have realized that I started on a small boat kit. It was my first model kit build, and lots of things were learnt from it, but nothing compared to the average model ship builder. Have gained much respect for those here who build ships.
 
Anyway, I thought I better catch up with my downloads to where I started building the small boat for this Bridge and Boat Diorama.
To carry on from above. The servos and swing gate axles needed brackets so the two, via lever links, can work together. These are fixed under the display table, under each swing gate.
 

 
These microswitches are stationed over the swing gate axle lever. The switches will indicate when the gates are fully opened and closed - for other circuits.

 
The motor circuit is being tested. Discovered that the span would raise to top of towers in 4 seconds, which is too fast. To slow it down, without having to add reduction mechanisms, I opted for a drop in volatge supply to the motor. Halving the voltage almost double the time to raise the span (to about 7 seconds).

 
Also discovered that the motor (unloaded) drifts to a stop when power is switched off. This is important to know, because the sensors used to disable the motor needs to be positioned to allow for such drifts. That is, the span motor must be turned off just before docking onto the bridge.

 
The making of the span and boat motor control circuits. These circuits control the motor shaft direction (clockwise and counter-clockwise rotations).

 

Something that might be of interest to tell:
Oak was never used for decks, because it becomes very slippery when wet.
Pine etc. doesn't get slippery when wet. Therefore decks on model ships are always done in light wood.

Something that might be of interest to tell:
Oak was never used for decks, because it becomes very slippery when wet.
Pine etc. doesn't get slippery when wet. Therefore decks on model ships are always done in light wood.

Something that might be of interest to tell:
Oak was never used for decks, because it becomes very slippery when wet.
Pine etc. doesn't get slippery when wet. Therefore decks on model ships are always done in light wood.

Something that might be of interest to tell:
Oak was never used for decks, because it becomes very slippery when wet.
Pine etc. doesn't get slippery when wet. Therefore decks on model ships are always done in light wood.

MERRY CHRISTMAS to you all.

Remember when I built the bridge I left a space in the railings for the swing gates? Well, those gates got made.
About a month ago I received an email containing a photo of the bridge when they used the gates. This was a breakthrough for me. Previously I was only going by what others described to me. But seeing is believing as they say.

So I got started with making the four swing gates.
 


These flat bits are lever arms which are linked in parallel with the servo arm.
 

There is this house in the way of the project. About 80% of it is within the display boundaries. So a house has to be built.

The model house.

Yes it has rooms - for a reason to be explained later.


For those who may be wondering; Yes I did build the house before painting the road.

Decided to have five rooms, each with its own room light. I used some electronics to switch on and off the lights in sequence; in 15 second intervals.
It won't be too noticeable with the display under a bright light. However, it will look good if the display gets dimmed down a bit.
 
Clockwise: Design drawing; Testing board; Etched circuit board; Front room illuminated; Circuit board which is now located under the display table.