testazyk

Thanks!  That's how I feel too. (esp the too old part)

The old ones that the computer techs used to use were pretty good but on the newer one I have the spring is off and the little wires are so flimsy they don't keep their shape.  So I never use it and stick with tweezers.

 I've never tried to use it for rigging but it seems like you might end up snagging a line if you're not careful with the thing. 

I wonder about the glue too.  I suppose that if a model were exposed to extremes of heat and cold it might expand and contract but I wouldn't think there would be a big enough difference in the behaviour of the first and second plank to cause the glue to fail.  Has I happened before and over what period of time?  Does it only happen at a certain time of year?  Sounds like an interesting (but frustrating) detective job.  Good luck!

Wackowolf, this might be a topic for a separate thread, but do you sharpen your bits or just get new ones when they wear out?  If you sharpen them how do you do it?

Hi Newton, I can't help with your specific inquiry but on the subject of nomenclature, I've heard two theories about the source of the term "crows nest." 

One was that crows will fly directly toward land and that sailors kept crows and released them to find the direction of the nearest land.  Presumably the crows were kept or released from the tops and that led to the term. 

I find that doubtful but no more plausible than the other theory. On some 17th century ships the bottom shrouds for the fore and main masts were attached to the top by several smaller lines.  The result was called the "crow's foot"  and that led to the top being named the "crow's nest."

Probably more information than you need/want and I'm sure someone out there knows the definitive answer, but it's interesting how these stories crop up.

Hi Miroslav--Your ship is looking good and I agree with you--I built the same kit and decided to make many changes to make it a unique and different ship.  I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Thanks Geoff!  I've tried all sorts of ways to try to get footropes to have the correct hang  and this is a nice idea.

I'm convinced that dry heat is best for bending planks and if you don't mind spending the money for an electric plank bender you won't regret it for convenience and effectiveness.  I've been using the Aeropiccola bender that Mark showed for 29 years and it's still serving me well.  I'd echo AVS Jerome's comment--don't grab it anywhere but on the handle!

captain-d that's a great idea--to paint one side and leave the other natural! 

I'm one of those people who value aesthetics over accuracy so I left my Victory natural. (plus I didn't trust myself with painting it)

Nice work.  I did the AL King of the Mississippi and loved it and looking at your log makes me want to do another steamboat!

You guys have sealed the fate of a poplar that has been sending out runners and threatening some drains!

Thanks for posting this and to all for the very valuable additional comments.  Very timely as I've been struggling to get some decent coils myself!

I agree with Russ.

Gel stain is a good bet for a multidimensional piece of work like a carving because it's hard to seal the right spots.  Gel stains also are usually water based and easy to work with.

I never thought to wonder why--glad you asked the question! 

Great advice from DaveF and don't forget to keep the teeth clean--if you've oiled them using the file on wood can gum things up.

I've done the AL Swift and King of the Mississippi.  In fact, they were the first two kit models I built.  I probably wouldn't do another AL kit.  I really don't like the way they think--the way they construct things like bulwarks and other hull details.  Plus sometimes they get the scale of fittings way off.  But I have to thank them because thanks to those kits I learned (I think) how to figure out a better way to do things.

Love your door!  And thanks for the hint about the guns.

I would agree with Anthony and Wacko--use lots of glue and let it dry--don't worry about excess glue--you can wipe it off with a wet rag.  Clamp the pieces together and also to your work surface if possible to prevent warping.   If you are laminating thinner bits, like for railings or decorative pieces you can also dry them out with a hair dryer to save some time

Hi, does anyone have any suggestions on how to make the metal buckets that come with a lot of kits look decent?  Any suggestions on how to make a decent looking handle?  Thanks!

That is some good looking planking!