testazyk

Andy, just out of curiosity (and ignorance), how different is airbrushing from using spraypaint? 

Lucky man!  I haven't done that ship but would love to so I don't have a lot of advice. 

And I sure don't have good advice as to how you convince your wife that you need a dedicated workshop so you can spread out your kit and tools in comfort but that would be my next step!

I tried to use one to taper masts too but found it too difficult to (1) hold the stock and (2) stay even.  I use it sometimes for trimming frames and things like that but I taper masts and spars with an electric drill.

I've never considered this issue before in deciding whether to tie off, coil, etc. but definitely will in the future thanks to your question!

Thanks DaveF that's the tool I was picturing, good advice about checking with the cabinetry people.  They used to also be pretty nice about letting me pick up some offcuts at no charge.

Beautiful work!  Inspiring craftsmanship.

Love your craftsmanship and tool organisation!  For what it's worth I think trying to get your planks all consistent would be a good idea in this case.  Just be careful not to make the too dark one the too light one!

How do you test for moisture content?  Do you need one of those probes they use to check houses?

Nice work!  You created order out of chaos!

Hi Mike--

My understanding is that a spar is anything like a pole on a ship that a sail is attached to.  Yards are spars that are perpendicular to masts on a square rigged ship.  So a yard is also a spar and a boom can be a spar, but a boom isn't a yard.  I'm pretty sure I got that right but someone will straighten me out if I'm wrong. 

As far as sails, the only time I ever put sails on a ship was when I did a Chinese junk so that experience really doesn't apply.  I have consciously decided not to put sails on any of the other ships I've done because (1) I think they hide interesting detail and (2) I can never get them to look right.  Put it's a personal decision.  Good luck.

As far as cutting tools, I would highly recommend X-acto knives.  They have an amazing variety and they don't break like scalpel blades.  They even have a little saw which is great for cutting out gunports and things like that.  They also have some nice toolkits that include sanding blocks, spokeshaves and planes.

I forgot about the Loom a line and agree with Brian.  In fact, if there were a competition for the least useful and easy to use tool ever made that would be it.  I've never really used the one I bought because it practically forces you to not do your shrouds properly.  End of rant.

I haven't been too impressed.  I have the nailer and the opening at the end is too small for all but the tiniest nails.  The keel holder is also too small for most larger models unless they've redesigned it. 

I've been fascinated by this log--incredible work!

I've wondered that too, especially because the anchor might be in the way and also vulnerable in battle.  Would they have repositioned them during battle?

Hi Michael--the first kit I built was AL and the second was Mamoli and based on that experience I very much prefer Mamoli kits.  I did the Roter Lowe and it was challenging but a real pleasure to build.  Like GaryM says, it would be a good idea to check to see that the hull is double planked.  The Mamoli Roter Lowe was double planked but they may have changed that since I built mine a long time ago.  I don't think it's a good idea to try a single planked hull for your first kit because in my opinion, hull planking is the most challenging part and you can make your mistakes with the first layer and correct them in the second. 

Also as Aussie suggests, you might check on line.  If you can import a kit you might get a much better deal and more variety so the Model Expo site is good to check.  However they are based in the US and overseas shipping costs are huge.  But check the pricing because sometimes the prices of kits in hobby shops are grossly inflated. Good luck!

Touch wood (no pun intended) I've never had a problem with spar warping and I've used lots of different finishes.  The biggest concerns in the warping area I think are (1) the poor quality of dowel material that is provided in some kits as mast and spar stock and (2) be careful that the rigging puts equal pressure on the spars so you don't have uneven pull which I guess could cause warping over time.

When I first read your question I was going to propose using a cutoff wheel too.  Sounds like you've got some good options though  Sometimes I have trouble getting uniform lengths with a wheel if you need them all to be identical,  Good luck with the project.  I don't think that many people take the trouble to include nail holes in copper plating. 

This is a very interesting question and I agree with Nick.  I've wondered why, if spars were black, they would necessarily be shiny.  On the Roter Lowe I did I just painted them flat black and I think they look great.  On all my other builds I oiled them until I realised that oil is a dust magnet.  Now I just stain and varnish them and go for appearance rather than accuracy.

Thanks Riverboat!  I think everyone's afraid to admit they want one.  My mother in law has one of those things and I might give it a try.

I do it the way Ulises suggests.  It's not technically correct but is easier to manage and minimises the chance of a line pulling loose later.  And rope coils cover a multitude of sins!

I agree with Keith and that's what I always do.  It's also a good idea to make a jig that you can use to ensure that your ports are all the same size.  Lastly, when you do your final layer of planking around the ports you will inevitably have to do some sanding/filing to square everything off.  If you put a light coat of lacquer around the port it will help prevent the wood from splitting as you file.  And whether or not the plans call for it, building a little frame inside each port hides the first layer of planking and gives your model a nice look. 

I agree with Jerry except that I hold the eye open with a nail and hit it with a dab of superglue.  You pull out the nail and have a nice firm ring for your becket.

As far as fixing the problem you can try to inject some glue under the springy plank and hold it in place till the glue dries.  Alternatively, you can fill the gap with a paste of white carpenters glue and sawdust from your planking. Press it in and before the glue dries, sand the surface flat.  The sanding will take down the lifted timber and the paste will fill in the gap in a way that should be invisible. 

Nice work!  This was my second build and so want to do it over.  I especially like the modifications AL has made to the kit.

Hi Les--

I can't seem to paste the link in but recently there was a thread here that might help called "making rope coils"  Search on it and you should be able to find it.  It shows a nice technique for making the ropes and once you get them positioned a light coating of PVA glue should hold them.  It might darken the thread a bit but shouldn't affect the texture.  Good luck!