testazyk

That makes sense Druxey and if I'm picturing things correctly, they did it that way so working the fid would be doable?

Interesting question.  Longridge says that the trestle trees should be parallel to the water line, so the angle against the mast would increase as rake increases.  He doesn't say why either but I agree with Richard that it would look funny. 

Thanks!

Thanks!  Next question, how did you get it to look like its carved out of wood?   How much work did you have to do before you painted it?  I've never been able to make the castings that come with kits look like anything but castings.

I agree with Frankie and Popeye. 

Hi Ron, I just found your log and the ship is looking beautiful.  Did you carve the stern figures? 

We'll figure it out, Ron! 

Hi Ron--

My first build (probably about the time  you started building) was the Swift and as I've progressed I've often thought of doing another one to correct the mistakes I made.  But your project is inspiring me to maybe rebuild mine with a few modifications and hopefully more skill.  I'll be following your rebuild with interest.

On question--how did you remove the superstructure from the hull and how much of it are you going to be able to reuse?

Thanks!

Tom

Hi Dave--

I've gotten stuff shipped from that place in the US to NZ and shipping is negligible so don't worry about that.  Also, they have battery operated LEDs so you don't have to worry about mains power.

Check out the Maritime Museum in Auckland next time you come through--some great models and sometimes there is a model maker on site and you can watch him work and talk to him. 

I think it's a great idea and the earlier you plan the wiring and put in the lights the better.  The biggest challenge will be decided where the power leads should exit the ship and how to conceal them and where to put the power supply.  The obvious place is concealing it all in the base but you have to consider access to change the battery and for the on off switch. 

If you haven't found a vendor, try Model Train Software in Colorado--I've had great success with their products and they have some great tutorials on wiring.

Vince and Mtaylor's advice is good.  Do it like they do in the hobby shops.  Otherwise you're like me and constantly sorting through a mass of wood to find what your looking for!

Hi Zach--Welcome and best of luck with your Virginia!  That was the first kit I built and I learned a lot and it hooked me on the hobby.  It also took me a loooong time!  I look forward to seeing your log.

Tom

Hi Mark--

Have a look at this--looks like it's single planking and this might give you some good ideas:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/186-george-w-washburn-by-larry-dumas-1890-tugboat-148/?hl=washburn

John I'd have that checked because other than a few operations I can think of nothing should really wear your fingertips out.  I don't think surgical gloves would work because they would tear or wear out very quickly with any degree of friction and you would definitely lose some feeling.  I just use those gloves when painting or staining. 

Hi Russ--I haven't bought a kit in a while but I remember that they usually indicated "double plank on frame" or less commonly "single plank on frame."

I don't know for sure why there is a difference, but I for one am deeply grateful for double planking.  I find hull planking the most challenging part of ship building and it's great to be able to make mistakes in the first layer, fix them with sanding and putty and then put on the second layer to hide everything!  That could well be a reason they do it.   

All of the double plank kits I've done make it very clear which is the first and which is the second layer.  The first layer of planks are generally thicker and a lower grade of wood (e.g., pine) while the second layer is finer (e.g., walnut) with nice grain and colouring.

Beautiful craftsmanship!

The absence of a parts list worried me at first too but if you go through the plans and have a look at all the materials in the kit it will give you a good overview idea of what's what and how the build is supposed to come together.  I haven't done a Mamoli kit for a while but recall that they also will use Italian abbreviations to describe the materials and sometimes refer to the different kinds of timber with abbreviations.  Usually you can logic it  out by physically matching the materials to the plans.  Good luck.  I'll see if I can find some notes I made when I did the Mamoli Roter Lowe and post them here.

I'll be interested to hear a definitive answer.  My guess is no because untapered would seem to provide more structural strength.  But tapered would be easier to work with and reduce the weight and possible look dramatic, but all those things seem less important than providing strength.

Thank you!  This is great.

Hi CF-- Congrats on the new job and best wishes in your new place.  I've really been enjoying your log because the Swift was my first build and I had most of the challenges you've had.  Especially those @#$$% bulwarks!  But it was a great learning experience and I'm glad I stuck with it!

True Pops, and that can be a problem on wood surfaces like if you are gluing a strip over several planks and have gaps.  But I haven't noticed that affecting the integrity over time.  (so far )

I agree that epoxy is probably best. 

If you can find some anaerobic adhesive (3m and Loctite make them) it makes life a lot easier because you don't have to mix it up like epoxy.  The fumes aren't bad like superglue.  These glues are used for thread locking and pipe sealing so they are strong.  The only downsides are cost and you'll never use all you buy before it dries up.  But for big metal applications (e.g., Sovereign of the Seas) as I say it makes life easier.

Thanks! That will make life a lot easier.

Just found this log and really enjoyed catching up with you.  Beautiful craftsmanship and thanks for sharing your innovative ideas. 

I found a very inexpensive lamp that clamps onto the work table.  It has a circular fluorescent bulb around the  outer ring and an incandescent bulb in the center.  You can turn on either or both lamps and the arm and fixture are completely adjustable.  I love it.  I also have a separate light, also clamped to the table that has a circular fluorescent bulb and  a big magnifying glass in the middle.  I use it only occasionally for very detail work but don't consider it strong enough to light my workspace.