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preservedkillick

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    West Wales UK
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    Scale modelling (duh!)
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  1. Hi (again) Bob Looking more carefully at your (really nice!) photos and reading your log more carefully, I can see that you shaped both the mainmast and the bib/side fishes so that the overall assembly ends up pretty much round, allowing the kit wingsail gaff jaws to fit. Of course none of this shaping is called for in the jotika instructions, or really indicated in AOTS, so I made no attempt to do it - just glued the kit bibs either side of the circular lower mainmast, ending up with something quite square. I can't do anything about the mast at this point, so I guess I'll try to open out the kit jaws, or if necessary scratch some more "open" ones that will fit my mast. Sometimes experience is far superior to just following the instructions ! Onwards and (at worst) sideways !
  2. Hi Bob Sorry, I meant the side fishes, which extend over halfway down each side of the mainmast. I can't make the gaff jaws anywhere near fit around these Alan
  3. Hi Bob Thanks so much for the prompt reply - I think I'll end up adding vangs for sure. One more related question if I may... You say in the log that you used the kit "jaws" for the wing sail gaff, but they don't seem to fit at all well, because the mainmast is pretty much square-section at that point (because of the cheeks fitted either side). Am I missing something ? Alan
  4. Hi Bob What a beautiful Granado you've created ! I've a small problem with mine - hope you don't mind me asking so long after the event..... (and apologies if the answer is in your log somewhere - I've not read it all) The problem is the vangs on the wingsail gaff - none of the Jotika docs refer to these, nor does my copy of "Anatomy of the Ship", but I notice you've fitted them. Fitting vangs seems essential, otherwise there's no tension on the lifts. What did you base fitting these on ? And where did you belay the falls to ? Thanks Alan
  5. Hi Jack The pit surrounds are of course really, REALLY securely glued in place (things always attach particularly well when you subsequently decide you need to remove them!) - not sure how much damage I might do getting them out - probably damage/destroy the base and /or other side components as well, also three weeks is about par for Jot once you get their attention IME. The add-ons sure are fiddly, but perfectly doable, given they're out of sight
  6. Best solution appears to be small pieces of 1 x 1 on the back of the side covers where they sit on the offending rebates - allows the cover to sit perfectly flush and doesn't mar the pit surround, at least one of which I'll leave visible (not sure yet how to display the mortars yet). If I need demounted side covers on show, I can easily build more without the add-ons. Hope the CNC depth didn't go awry on anything else !
  7. Looks to me like the rebate on (all) the mortar housings is about 1mm too low - should be 1mm from the top edge - mine are clearly at least 2mm. Found a build photo on the Jot site that clearly shows the rebate higher on their parts You can see (I hope) that the rebate is below halfway on mine (top photo) and above it on Jot's (bottom) Have to scratch my head over the best way to fix this - don't fancy trying to build up those tiny rebates by 1mm..
  8. Hmm, here's a thing.... The top of the lower 3* 3 part of the removable strongback isn't flush with the rebate on the inside of the mortar housing, so the side covers can't sit horizontal and aren't properly supported. AOTS clearly shows this rebate at exactly the same level all around the side cover, as one would expect. What have I done wrong.......
  9. Completed the first sliding canopy-half (bar the ring-bolts). Seems to be slight disagreement over whether the side planks go under the roof planks or butt alongside them - plan shows the former, and the manual the latter. Not helped by fact that the "1 * 5" strip supplied turned out to be 1 * 4, causing further confusion. Eventually sided with manual and went for "alongside" (and raided stash for some actual 1 * 5). Result looks pretty good (IMHO) - hope I can replicate it three more times. Need to be careful to check that the two halves will actually meet in the middle (sounds obvious, but....)
  10. Mortar housings progressing. Several attempts at assembling the upper longitudinals/traverse bulkheads (61/62) - and a certain amount of blue air - because the former needed reduction to fit in the housings and I kept breaking the assembly apart again when filing (because it's just butt joints at the corners). Eventually resorted to reducing the longitudinals to fit first, and then assembling them to the bulkheads - then immediately fitting the whole lot to the housing to keep it square. Fiddly-diddly IYKWIM. On to the even-more-fiddly-looking canopies.....
  11. Thanks guys. Jack - those "long gaps" just happen don't they - life just keeps getting in the way of ship-building! Chemical blackening of the ring bolts looks pretty convincing to me - perhaps a little too matt, though that's easily fixed. Prefer it to paint I think, though of course it's *much* more costly. Different stuff to what I used on Bounty, and seems to work better, though I'll hang fire on final verdict until I've tried it on brass - seem to recall it took forever to get anywhere near convincing cannon barrels, and there are a lot more on this one.
  12. Finished (or at least stopped) touching up and varnishing the hull. False Upper Gun Deck glued and pinned in place. Mortar beds constructed, drilled and varnished (went for satin in the end, which I think I'll stick with, apart from decking). The mortar housings overall look like they'll be a project in themselves - nice lot of detail ! Need to try out chemical blackening the ring bolts versus painting, whilst the deck is going off.
  13. Hull painting completed. Went for a sort of cream off-white, which I think gives a nice contrast with the bare wood and the black on the wales, without being too pristine. Very slight gaps in the planking are visible, but I don't find that objectionable - at least it's clear the thing is made from planks ! Need to decide what varnish to use on the unpainted areas - I quite like satin rather than utterly matt
  14. Sanding of second planking below the wales almost complete (ideally needs good daylight, and it's getting dark here !, so I'll finish it tomorrow). Few very minor gaps, but I'd argue they make it look more authentic. Used 400 => 800=>1200 grit wet/dry. Fears of sanding "through" the rather thin walnut strip not realised thank goodness :-o Not sure why the manual leaves fitting the stern post so late (it's at the end of completing the second planking) - I'd have thought fitting it now would give better continuity in the paint. Can't see that it's going to interfere with fitting the stern counter etc. if fitted now. Hmmm....
  15. OK, planking below wale finished on both sides. Stern trimmed along rudder post and counter. Obviously wasn't quite as careful at the stern on the port as some of the ends haven't gone down as flush as they might - all within the bounds of sanding though Looking ahead a little.. What's the thinking on hull paint colour - I haven't painted a hull before (only coppered) - have a feeling just pure white may look a bit too pristine ? Also looked at the mortar housings a little - how about chemical blacking of metal parts (e.g. ring bolts) rather than painting - I tried this on my first build (years ago) and found I had to leave the parts in the stuff for hours to get a significant effect - has it got any better ?
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