Shazmira

Thanks Bob, Keith, Carl and David for the comments (and the pictures David - very cool), and also for all the "likes".
 
I applied one coat of clear coat this week in preparation for the boot topping and artwork. I used my new mini-spray gun for this and learned a little in the process – primarily that my little airbrush compressor is only just up to the job for this. The spray gun sucks a lot of air (it needs about 30 - 40psi to shoot the clear coat), so short bursts and some patience while the compressor re-charges are required. There is a little bit of an ‘orange peel’ effect evident on this coat, but that will disappear with further coats and light sanding (and improved operator technique).
 
To apply the boot topping, I used two new products. First up, some pinstriping stencil tape from Finesse. Quite expensive, but does a super job. Essentially it is two pieces of masking tape with a clear carrier tape over the top. It is applied as “one” tape, and then the carrier tape is removed, leaving two perfectly parallel masking lines.
 

 
The second product I stumbled across in the LHS while picking up some extra paint. It is a masking tape combined with plastic sheeting. It comes in a roll like this”
 

 
As you can see, one edge has standard Tamiya yellow masking tape, which is pre-attached on one edge to some thin plastic sheeting that unfolds to be 550mm (nearly 2 ft) wide. By running the tape along the outer edge of one side of the Finesse stencil, the sheet was wide enough to go completely over the model where it was taped down with some more Tamiya tape to the stencil on the other side. The process was repeated for the opposite side of the stencil and in no time at all the hull was completely masked except for the boot topping space. If anyone is interested, the Tamiya product ID is 87164**640
 
The boot topping was airbrushed on using Vallejo Model Air White (71.001) at about 15psi. The first coat was left for about two hours (I had to go out) and then a second coat applied. About 30 minutes later I removed the masking and voila!
 

 

 

 
I’ll leave this to fully cure overnight and then apply another clear coat before starting on the artwork.

Thanks for all the kind comments and the likes. It's been a while since I updated this, but not because I haven't been making progress - it's just that this is a slow process!  Anyway, here is a little update of sorts.
 
Fibreglassing the Hull
 
Having declared a win with the trials, I commenced the process of glassing the entire boat. Although the instructions say not to bother glassing the bottom of the boat as it is plastic (Sintra), I decided to take the precaution of glassing it anyway.
 
This is a slow process overall as it is necessary to work on only one surface at a time and to allow it to fully cure before proceeding to the next surface. Here is a couple of in-progress shots of the first phase – applying the glass mat with the first layer of epoxy resin. It followed much the same path as the trials (happily).
 
I began with the bottom, cutting the glass mat slightly larger than required. In hindsight, I could have trimmed this much closer prior to applying the epoxy. The resin was applied by pouring a small amount into the centre and spreading outwards with a rubber squeegee. Care needs to be taken to avoid any drips landing on the overhang and sticking itself to the hull sides – don’t ask how I know this!
 

 
The sides were next:
 

 
Here is a close-up of the side, showing just how much of the weave of the cloth is visible at this stage. Remember, trust the process!
 

 
Once the epoxy had cured (overnight) the cloth was trimmed back using a single edged razor blade:
 

 
It’s not clear in the above photo, but I found that with a little caution I could run the blade right along the adjoining edge, making final clean up with some 80 and 120 grit sandpaper that much easier.
 
Speaking of clean-up, this next shot shows the side after it had cured, been trimmed and lightly sanded with both 80 and 120 grit. The purpose here is to remove any high spots and create a smooth (but toothed) surface for the next layer of resin.
 

 
As you can see in this photo, it looks pretty ugly. There were quite a few “blemishes” where the cloth may have lifted slightly during the initial coating. Remember, trust the process!
 
Once both sides had been done, the transom followed, and finally the deck. All went pretty much as shown in the above photos, though perhaps with fewer flaws as I gained experience.
 
Then it was time to apply the second layer of epoxy. Again, it was a case of doing just one surface at a time, keeping that surface as horizontal as possible to allow the resin to level and not overflow the edges.  As per the trials, the second coat was applied with a stiff brush, care being taken to ensure that the “oopses” from the first phase were filled in by firmly stippling the area with the brush until the oops disappeared.
 
I didn’t take any “in-progress” shots of individual panels, but here are a few on completion of the second coat of epoxy. At this stage, the epoxy has fully cured but no clean up sanding has been done. This will be carried out prior to applying the third coat of resin. However, I thought it useful to post these overall pics to show just what a difference the second coat of epoxy makes. It has almost entirely filled in the weave of the cloth and the “shiny-ness” gives an indication of what is to come.
 

 

 

 
It’s very difficult to take pictures of a highly polished and reflective surface, but I think you can get the idea. And yes, you can see a slightly uneven “wavy” effect on the surface – this will come out with the between coats sanding. Hopefully, one more coat of resin will be sufficient prior to commencing the finish coats of spar varnish. If not, we’ll keep going until it is!
 
It will be a little while before the next update as I'm travelling for work over the next couple of weeks.
 

Thanks Don and Bob, and also to all of the "likes".
 
Just a little more progress this week. The hull has finally been prepared for fibre-glassing. Rather than continue with progressive grits of sandpaper, and the all of the dust that that entails, after the initial rough sanding, I used some cabinet scrapers to smooth the deck and remove any residual glue stains. I had been apprehensive about using the scrapers but after watching a couple of YouTube videos on how to prepare and sharpen (burnish) a scraper properly, I felt confident to give it a try. I have to say, it is a lot easier than I’d anticipated. It is also a lot quicker than sanding, and the major bonus is that there is not a lot of dust – just some very fine shavings. It also ensures that the plastic “caulking” strips have a smooth finish.  Once the scraping had been completed, I brushed on the mahogany stain provided in the kit, as per the kit directions. It is a water-based stain and was very easy to apply. The caulking strips were simply wiped over with a piece of paper towel to remove the stain from them and prevent any discolouring.  Here is where she is at today:
 

 
And a close up of the fore-deck:
 

 
I intend to delay fibre-glassing for a couple of weeks for two reasons. Firstly, we are going away for a few days next weekend, and secondly, I’d like to wait for the weather to warm up a little before tackling this as from what I’ve read the process is somewhat easier to get right with a little heat in the air.

Thanks very much Bug, Popeye, Lawrence, Rusty and all the "Likes".
 
A minor update this week....
 
Deck Planking
 
Planking the deck has presented no particular problem thus far. The instructions direct you to alternate a caulking strip with a plank, but I found it easier to laminate one of each together and then shape and fit as a single unit. The only tricky part of shaping was the last plank on either side around the side of the cockpit, which just took a little time and patience to ensure a good fit. The ends of the planks were trimmed close to the forward end of the cockpit and then taken closer still with a sanding drum in the rotary tool, before finishing by hand.  Once all the planking is complete, the surface will be sanded level such that all caulking strips will be level with the planks (at the moment they stand just a little proud). Not bad for a day’s work! There will be a brief hiatus for a couple of weeks as I’ll be travelling with work.
 

 
 

Here I'am again with an update.
All the yards are in place.
Also the sprit sail yard.
Now I have to pay attention when I turn the ship.
I can now go on with the standing rigging.
Anja is still trying to make the hammock netting for me.
But she has also her own build so it can take a while.
No problem at all because when the nettings are finished, it is easy to place them ( I hope ).
 
Sjors
 

 

 

 
 
 

Where she sits right now

Sjors, Thank you.
Almost finished?? I guess if I was the average builder here I would say yes, a couple more months, but, most likely if I finish in 2017 it will be towards the end of the year. Build time continues to be at a premium, and several times I have sat down to work and set my tools aside to go read or spend time with the Better Half.
Thanks for all the likes and comments they are always appreciated.  I have formed the Fore Top Cross Trees. Hopefully Saturday I will be able to make the Trestle Trees and get them glued up. After that a couple fo caps and and two more small masts and then I think I can start looking into some shrouds and stays.
Sam

Small update. The two Cross Trees just kept taunting me every time I looked at them so over the last several weeks I bit the bullet and remade everything with three Cross Trees. Right or wrong, short of an act of god, drinking fit or space alien invasion they are done and I am pleased with how they turned out. Next build though I really need to look into a mill, I made every part at least twice not counting the finished set with two cross trees. Chopping those half lap joints correctly was....interesting.  It did give me a chance to use my new Dockyard Micro Carving chisels. The Deep Plow worked well as a micro mortising chisel. The Skew worked well for scraping away the coat of shellac I applied to the masts to keep finger prints off. When it came time to glue the battens on I was able to scrape the finish off without gouging the wood.
 
I finished off the mast heads with card instead of soldered and blackened brass. I kept questioning my ability to make evenly spaced, close fitting brass straps. This was my first attempt at modeling with a paper product, they came out pretty good. Next time though I will choose a card stock closer to the finial color. As I was painting the white bands gray black it was quite a challenge to not get paint on the mast head. The end result looks fine from normal viewing distance, under macro or magnifying headset there is a distinct white band. Like I said though you cant really see it from normal viewing distance so I am ok with it.
 
Pictures below.

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Sam, the finish is beautiful, and that first picture show a beautifully planked hull. Those bits at the stern that have your attention...I am betting when finished, you are the only one who will notice the discrepancy. But, you know the rule of modeling...if you aren't content and happy with it, if it is the cause of sleepless nights, THEN you need to rework and scratch it to please yourself!

After much thought, reading, Googling, staring at the ship, fiddling with paper and cardboard, I'm starting the galleries.
 
First, here's the drawings of the Licorne as built in 1755 with the same style galleries as Renommee and others of that era.  Ornate and distinctively French.
 

 
 
After the rebuild, the wales changed to more like Belle Poule and other frigates of that era.   There is one problem though, the galleries are NOT like anything I've able to find.  I trust the NMM drawings as the lines, etc. were taken off after she was captured.
 
The big "whoa" moment is that the galleries extend beyond the transom taffrail.  Newer ships fell under the edict of galleries, when viewed from the stern were to be "hidden" by the transom taffrail.  See drawings... these are from the Hahn plans but match the NMM plans.  There are no plan views (top down) that show the galleries shape.
 

 
What I ended up doing was using cardboard, paper, cellophane tape, blue tape, lots of invectives, and finally some rationalization.  Hahn built them as semi circles and I think he's pretty spot on.  The mockup was pretty much destroyed fit the bits and pieces into the scanner for converting to parts drawings. So, sorry there's no pictures.  It wasn't very pretty to look at but it filled the need.
 
Here's the first parts I've cut.  Basically the upper matches the bottom as to size but with some reshaping as to the outside for the trim strip.   If you'll look carefully, they are not a true semi-circle.   When I viewed the mockups from the side and the rear, this curve is the only one that matched the views and this didn't match the other ship plans I looked at.   Part of the reason, I believe, is that Licorne's stern is a bit narrower than the normal of the time and the sweep of the top rail has more arc than other French frigates I looked at.
 

 
I'm starting to fit them now.  I'm starting with the bottom piece on one side and then make the other side a mirror image. 
 
One other note.... On the old style galleries, only the center pane of the window (or of the center window for larger ships) was glazed.  I'm in a quanadry about glazing all the panes in all the windows and all the models of frigates of that period that I've seen haven't had glazing.  Even Frolich's... just black or blue paint in the panes.   Hmm...  my decision at this moment is to glaze the center window entirely and deadlight the other two.  However, that's open to discussion.
 

I think this pretty close...   
 
Here's the jig I've been using along with a pattern.

 
I've cut out the coat from thin cloth that has a light brown stain to emulate the Stockholm Tar and have started the installaton.

 
It's been folded down for trimming and gluing.

 
And the final gluedown.  It bulges nicely but still needs a bit trimming after the glue sets.  The rudder is a slight angle to port and puts just bit twist to the coat.

 
I think I'm onto the quarter galleries....
 

Mark,
 
If the leather is to stiff just chew on it and it will get flexible......      
 
Sjors

I think I got it.  Or are at least darn close.  If not, I'll do another one.  
 

It’s been a year since any progress has been made on the Runabout! What can I say, work, life, and another modelling project all conspired to put this project on hold. But we’re back now and ready to continue. I’ve spent the last couple of weeks trying to get my head back into the project with all the additional modifications I wanted to make and trying to remember where I was headed. Some small progress has been made though.
 
First up was the Rudder Block and Rudder Tube. Fairly straight forward and shown here epoxied in place.
 

 
The Rudder itself was next. The kit provides a brass blank for the Rudder and a short brass rod for the Rudder Post that is pre-split to slide onto the rudder. All that is required is to radius the corners of the Rudder and silver solder the Rudder to the Rudder Post. I gave the Rudder and post both a good sanding first to remove any coating prior to soldering, and again after soldering to remove residue and excess solder. I polished it up with successive grades of sandpaper, although it has since tarnished somewhat. I will clean it up again in due course – haven’t decided yet whether to paint it the same colour as the bottom of the hull, or keep it shiny brass (in which case I’ll polish it up and clear coat it).
 

 
Next up was to cut the slot in the hull for the drive shaft, and to shape and install the engine mount blocks. Cutting the slot was a little nerve-wracking, but turned out to be quite easy – drilled a hole at either end and then used an Exacto knife with a saw blade to cut through the Sintra and Butterfly Keel.  The kit provides balsa for the engine mount blocks, but I decided to replace this with something more substantial to screw into. I used some offcuts of pine that I had in the workshop and cut/sanded these to shape. They were then epoxied (with a liberal amount of epoxy) to the base of the hull and the frame immediately forward of them.
 

 
And here’s a close-up of the Engine Mount Blocks:
 

 
The Engine Mounting Brackets were then bent to shape around the motor, screw locations marked and drilled, and then the motor re-inserted and clamped down to test the mounting arrangement. The screws were then loosened off and the motor removed.
 

 
At this point, it was necessary to deviate from the kit instructions as I planned to install a “working” steering wheel – that is, to set it up such that it turns when the rudder turns. The idea for this, and some of the technique were “borrowed” shamelessly from couple of other builders on the RC Groups Forum. It involves installing a servo with a spline-mounted gear wheel, and some plastic link chain to connect it to the drive shaft of the steering column.
 
After several days of thinking about exactly how I was going to do this, I decided that I would cut an “Access Panel” in the frame. I then made small platform for the bottom of the servo mount to sit on, and I epoxied some nuts to receive the Access Panel Cover. In this picture, you can see the Access hole, the platform and the epoxied nuts.
 

 
The servo itself needed to be mounted at an angle to ensure that the Servo gear and the driveshaft gear remained in the same plane. Having measured the angle of incidence from the plans, I constructed a small block sanded to the correct angle on the Byrnes sander, and mounted the Servo on this. This assembly was then epoxied to the fore side of the Access Panel Cover (this step was completed with the panel in place to ensure the correct location of the servo mount)
 

 
Here is a view with the Access Panel Cover now in place.
 

 
Also in the above photo, you can see the steering column driveshaft (the brass rod) and the steering column sleeve (the shiny silver thingy).
 
Finally, the driveshaft gear was fitted, the chain measured to length and fixed (the links are really easy to snap apart to add/remove links), and the two gears connected. In the photo below, you can also see where I cut a bit of a scallop in the top of the keel to ensure there would be no interference with the chain.
 

 
And finally, a shot from above showing the whole assembly in place.
 

 
I originally made the access panel with the thought that I might be able to access the setup should a part fail. However, I now think that it will be impossible to replace things through that hatch as there is no access from above once the decks go on (at least not without adding an access hatch, which the original boat didn’t have). So, once I’ve proved it running, it will get sealed up inside the boat forever!
 
Next step will be to build a number of shelves/racks to house the electronics. Again, I’m departing from the standard kit here, so want to make sure I get all of this sorted before I close up the hull any further.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
Rudder coat time....
 
I tested several materials ranging from paper, silkspan, to handkerchief and a pillowcase.   I decided the pillowcase cloth would best replicate canvas.   After sorting out design and how I was going to mount it, I stained the cloth with some wood stain to give it tarred canvas look and when dry attached it to the rudder.
 

 
I've attached the rudder to the ship and glued down the rudder coat.   It's looking splotchy so I'll see what happens when the glue fully cures out.  I might just brush on some more stain but the worse case is that I'll paint it.  
 
The French didn't use a metal ring like a lot models show (here on MSW anyway) but nails.  Since those are 1" nails (full-size), I'm not going to try to duplicate them although I'm testing a method for simulating them...
 

 
More on the rudder, later, as there's still more details to finish up.

Thanks for the likes and compliments everybody, they are inspiration to do better.
 
Sjors, that's cause you sent yours here!! you have mine.
 
Mark, thanks its was a bit of a challenge getting it started.
 
Carl, thanks but I question the better builder comment....
 
Rich, Its no wonder they are unfamiliar, I have once again departed from the Constructo plans. Which brings me to a series of questions.
 
I am using a combination of Constructo's rigging plan, Chucks Syren instructions as well as Fully Framed and Masting and Rigging. I know, most likely not the smartest decisions considering this is my first build, but you only live once and as I commented elsewhere this morning, building is one of the few places life gives the opportunity for re-dos.
 
I have finished - I think - the Bowsprit and am ready to install and do the gammoning, before I do:
Rigging wise is there anything else that should be added now that will ease the rigging process later? Blocks, eyes etc? Do the hearts and or the bowsprit itself look out of scale? They look a little bulky to me, maybe I am just being timid/overly critical. Chucks Syren instructions differ in the locations of the hearts on the bowsprit from and Fully Framed and Masting and Rigging. Since none of the above are geared towards a ship as small as the Enterprise I thought I would ask the more experienced, should the hearts go forward (like I have them) or astern of the Jib Boom heel?
 

Thanks in advance for any advice,
Sam

Ok then,
La Machine is assembled and working, I have served several bits of string and seized some hearts. It took several tries to get something like I wanted, I have used up a quantity of rope from Chuck already, at this rate Chuck will be able to retire on me!
 
Here is La MAchine Herself, before and after "Cosmetic Enhancement" Other than not getting all the laser char out, after a bit of stain and some finish she looks OK. She looks better off camera, richer.  She works even better, now, will she do windows?
 

 

 
 
And a couple of served and seized hearts. The fourth one from the left may have to be redone, there is a lot of glue schmutz that didnt get cleaned up properly.
 

 

Yes its upside down. Its currently hanging, seems easier to tie off that way. I turned the photo right side up but with the lighting it looked funny  so I left it.
 
Sam
 

Small update in the overall scheme of things.
 
The new rudder is ready for the metal work and some additional holes.  For example the two tiller holes are drilled but need squaring up with some file work and a couple of small holes for the eyebolts/ringbolts need drilling   All things considered and compared to the elder brother rudder, I'm happy with this.  There is one minor defect that will be hidden by the rudder coat.  And no, i"m not going to forget this bit.....
 
The opening for the pintles is shaped now like the French ones and not like the English properly. I also used boxwood from three different sheets/scraps in order to have some variation between the three slabs of wood.
 
Edit:  Actually... I'm wrong.  Both the English and the French did that same way.  The square openings are the way many kits do them.   I have much to unlearn... as well as learn.
 
For the metal work, I'm going with smaller diameter pintles and cudgoens than on the first version. the irons (straps), I'll make from the same material as before.   Also, I'm considering right now eliminating the bolts holding the irons to the rudder and hull because even though the I'm using are the tiniest I can find, as this scale they are still too large.  i believe if my measurements and eyes are to be believed they work out to having the heads 3" in diameter and standing proud at out 1.5".
 
I'll be using epoxy for securing the metal to the wood, although I need to test first and make sure that it will hold.
 
 
 
 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

Well, I was laying in bed last night wondering the exact same thing (there were 40 24" strips), then I remembered my new Rottie puppy had gotten into my wood a couple months back and used a couple packages of the boxwood I'd purchased as well as a couple bundles of the kit-provided basswood as a chew toy. Of course it turned out to be the wood I needed for my deck planking that fell to her humongous puppy teeth. 

So after all that worry, it turned out the coppering really was not all that difficult. Here she is finished
 

 

 
The rudder
 

 
And all assembled
 

 
Now that I have received my replacement pieces from ME, I can go back and get my deck planked at last!