MD11pilot

Hello
 
Thanks for the guidance, having read your answers I started to mess around with some apple strips.
From my plans I could find that the joint is 20mm so I messured out a diagonal through 20mm on a plank
 
Then I cut the strip on the table saw and rubber glued (gummi klister) the two pieces together. A bit of sanding on a disc sander to ensure a perfect surface.
 
Then I marked the middle of the cut, set the table saw blade on a 1,5mm hight and started to cut out a notch.
 
Separating the strips and well nothing less than magic, I had two fitting strips
 
Very little sanding was needed to fit the parts resulting in a joint that was actually har to see
Believe me I was surprised !!
 
I then tried to use a bit of black acid free paper for chaulking, it weakened the joint but made it visible. I will not use paper on my actual ship as that would make this particular joint scream out from the rest of the planking.  
 

Thanks Mark,
 
Making repetitive parts reminds me of a story.
 
A man driving down a country road sees some handmade furniture in front of a house.  He liked the look of one of the chairs and asks the price.  The craftsman said $35.00.  The man thinking the chair would make nice dining room chairs orders a set of eight.  The craftsman says “That will be $2000.00.”  The man complains and asks why so much.  The craftsman says . . . “The first one was fun”.
 
So now two more buckets.
 
Bob

Nope, Just saying that you must be a damn surgeon with that Sander, If I used it the entire starboard side would have been gone.
 
 

It is quite whimsical preparation in use. Try at first its action on samples from that wood which you want to process on model.

I have used spalted english walnut and spalted holly for the weathered look. The walnut I scribed and the holly was individual planks.

I used holly for the deck of my Syren and didn't think that the pristine look of the deck matched the weathered look of the rest of the model. I tried to stain it lightly to give it some character but holly didn't seem to take stain easily, After looking at a lot of the decks on MSW, I settled on the look that you describe so I used the weather-it to create the look. It worked well but because of the previous stain it was a combination of tan and grey. I'd tell you to look at my build but I haven't reposted it yet. I'm hoping that most of my photos are on my old computer

ERIC-  I recall that I got 2-3 planks in the jig at a time.  Since you're bending basically just the 1st and maybe second plank in each run (assuming your using 25 foot planks scaled down), you get into a sequence of bending, drying, actual planking  and you just roll along, mass production style.  Hope that makes sense.
 
For every curved plank at the bow, you're going to be laying 3 or 4 more almost straight ones as you work toward the stern (or vice versa).  So you are not soaking every plank and putting it in the jig to dry.  Also, working on both sides at the same time gives you plenty of time to let planks dry.  Unless you're going to plank the whole hull in one day    .
 
It makes sense once you start.

OK, time for an update. 
 
The running rigging, up through the addition of the yards, has been completed  .  Basically we're talking stays and halliards.  I apologize for the photos as it's seemingly impossible to get the right background to show what's going on.  The rope coils on the finished lines are in place.
 

 

 

 
 
Will now be moving on to the YARDwork, which I hope will go as well as mast construction.  I may need to take a break to do some real yardwork like planting tomatoes simultaneously.  This will at least beat shoveling snow in between stropping blocks.
 
This next phase will take a while so stay the course 'til I return!

I think I'd rather be in Japan enjoying the cherry blossoms than shoveling snow. The ship will be patiently waiting.

Thanks David, Maybe I should also mentioned that I have 3 kits that met with a viking burial mostly out of frustration with planking. But I am determined to get past this roadblock. I have 2 very important tools - this web site and my local club.

You guys crack me up. Are you trying to say, "Go big or stay home" doesn't apply to model building?

Hi Eric,
 
I never tire of looking at the Syren. You have a great build going on and your log is most informative and interesting. I have to admit you have courage and touch using the belt sander, yikes!! Look forward to more of your build.
 
BFN
 

 
Cheers,
 
Hopeful aka David
 

 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 

 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
 
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 

 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)
 

That's SOME sander !!!!  She's looking good so far.  I like your use os spacers for consistency.

Hi and nice start on your Syren.
 
I noticed your comment about the laser marks on the bulkheads were too deep causing the extensions to be fragile, Yeh this has been seen quite often and you are not the only one, seems to be a MS production problem with both the Syren and Confederacy, many syren builders and me on the first Confed here have had it, I agree everybody should take a few minutes to look for this issue when they start their build.
 
That picture of a belt sander you used scared me to death and I'm glad you got away with it, I would never of dared use something like that on a model.
 
Look forward to your progress.
 
Ben

Really nice start of your model

Making a little progress after getting back in town from a trip.
 
After attaching the keel and knees and letting the whole thing sit in the DeskMate for a couple of days, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the BF warp was completely gone.


 
 
Now time to add the bulkheads.  I found one that was missing a sizable portion of the middle ply and the bulwark extension was hanging by just a thread of the outer ply.  The picture is not so good, but you get the idea....
 

 
What to do, what to do?  I braced the bulkhead  and shot it full of expanding foam.  After it cured, I carved off the excess foam and hardened the exposed surface of the foam with some glue.  Came out pretty good I think.  Was a lot easier than trying to carve wood to fit exactly in the hole.
 

 

 
Gluing in the bulkheads trying to be very precise with alignment....
 

 

 
It is no secret that the bulwark extensions on the bulkheads are fragile.  But, in my kit, they were extra flimsy.  I think the laser cutter was set too hot.  Instead of making a nice little line on the surface of the wood, the reference lines burned thru the first ply and, in some cases, half way thru the center core.  You can see how that would make them even easier to break than normal.  I think I probably broke off half of them at one point or another.  If you're getting ready to start your own Syren, you may want to dab some CA on these reference marks before you remove the bulkheads from the plywood sheets.
Has anyone else had this problem, or was I just the lucky one?
 

 
Out into the garage for the next step.  Going to make lots of sawdust cutting and fitting the filler blocks.
 
Used balsa filler blocks to stiffen things up.  Shaped and sanded the filler blocks to match the bulkheads. 
 
Used a drum sander on a drill press to do the initial shaping/faring of the bulkheads. 
 

 
Back inside to start working on the gun port framing.  Used a batten and the gun port template to find a nice line across the hull.  Turns out the reference lines on my kit were dang close.  My line never varied by more than 1/32" from the reference marks.  This step is just a lot of cutting, trimming, sanding, and gluing.  Kind of relaxing.  I found that Binder clips really helped with the sills.  After dry fitting, the binder clips make a nice little shelf to sit the sill on when gluing it in and help to keep the sills nice and level.
 

 
To make it easier to install the lintels, I made little 15/32" spacers.
 

 
Now I didn't have to worry about measuring anything.  Just sit the lintels on the spacers for perfect parallel installation.
 

 
Now it's back out into the garage to sand the framing down to match the bulwarks....
 
 

Making a little progress after getting back in town from a trip.
 
After attaching the keel and knees and letting the whole thing sit in the DeskMate for a couple of days, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the BF warp was completely gone.


 
 
Now time to add the bulkheads.  I found one that was missing a sizable portion of the middle ply and the bulwark extension was hanging by just a thread of the outer ply.  The picture is not so good, but you get the idea....
 

 
What to do, what to do?  I braced the bulkhead  and shot it full of expanding foam.  After it cured, I carved off the excess foam and hardened the exposed surface of the foam with some glue.  Came out pretty good I think.  Was a lot easier than trying to carve wood to fit exactly in the hole.
 

 

 
Gluing in the bulkheads trying to be very precise with alignment....
 

 

 
It is no secret that the bulwark extensions on the bulkheads are fragile.  But, in my kit, they were extra flimsy.  I think the laser cutter was set too hot.  Instead of making a nice little line on the surface of the wood, the reference lines burned thru the first ply and, in some cases, half way thru the center core.  You can see how that would make them even easier to break than normal.  I think I probably broke off half of them at one point or another.  If you're getting ready to start your own Syren, you may want to dab some CA on these reference marks before you remove the bulkheads from the plywood sheets.
Has anyone else had this problem, or was I just the lucky one?
 

 
Out into the garage for the next step.  Going to make lots of sawdust cutting and fitting the filler blocks.
 
Used balsa filler blocks to stiffen things up.  Shaped and sanded the filler blocks to match the bulkheads. 
 
Used a drum sander on a drill press to do the initial shaping/faring of the bulkheads. 
 

 
Back inside to start working on the gun port framing.  Used a batten and the gun port template to find a nice line across the hull.  Turns out the reference lines on my kit were dang close.  My line never varied by more than 1/32" from the reference marks.  This step is just a lot of cutting, trimming, sanding, and gluing.  Kind of relaxing.  I found that Binder clips really helped with the sills.  After dry fitting, the binder clips make a nice little shelf to sit the sill on when gluing it in and help to keep the sills nice and level.
 

 
To make it easier to install the lintels, I made little 15/32" spacers.
 

 
Now I didn't have to worry about measuring anything.  Just sit the lintels on the spacers for perfect parallel installation.
 

 
Now it's back out into the garage to sand the framing down to match the bulwarks....
 
 

Eric, It is great to see your log. I agree those binder clips are the best tool and even better for the price. I don't know what you do for work but I picked up about 3 dozen of them in my companie's office supplies. If you look around you will find a thread I posted on how to modify them to use for planking clamps. You mght have found that particular modification useful for your sills.
 
Another suggestion that I have found quite useful. I went to my local Home Depot and bought a piece of aluminum angle iron. I used my hack saw to cut it into 4 inch lengths. I then used the resulting pieces as to clamp with my bulkheads. I now use them over and over on all my models. The glue does not stick and it the holds the bulkheads square. In about 6 months I will get back to my Syren and post that log.
 
Keep up the great work I will be following you!
 
By the way normally I would agree with you this is a challenging project for a first model. But with the great design and wonderful practicum from Chuck and all the help here. I don't think it will be any issue at all.

Hi all.
 
Yup, another Syren.  It's popular for good reason - a quality kit, Chuck's detailed instruction set, lots of Forum support, and it's a gorgeous little ship.
 
This is my first ship model.  Yes, I know, it's too ambitious for a first build.  But I've been a hobbyist, woodworker, do-it-your-selfer all my life so I thought I'd dive into the deep end.  If I want to learn the entire skill set needed for my ultimate dream boat, the Surprise, then I need to practice on a ship that has all the same elements.
Feel free to chime in if you see me heading in the wrong direction.  I don't plan to stray from Chucks practicum, so hopefully I wont make any irreparable errors.
 
While waiting for the Syren to arrive, I set up shop in the basement using an old computer hutch as my work station.  Gathered all my hobby tools and purchased a few more.  Found some great ideas for planking clips on other folks logs, so I made some of those too.
 
The kit arrived in fine shape - good packaging by Model Expo.
Initial impressions very good.  The hardware kit is very complete.  Glad to see the bags of blocks/deadeyes - thought I was going to have to make all of 'em.  Back in the day, I built RC airplanes just when laser cutting was coming on the scene.  It has come a long way.  The laser cut parts in this kit are very precise and crisp.
 
So after a cursory inventory of all the included parts and a day of reading through the manual it's finally time to start making dust......
 
Eric
 

Making a little progress after getting back in town from a trip.
 
After attaching the keel and knees and letting the whole thing sit in the DeskMate for a couple of days, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the BF warp was completely gone.


 
 
Now time to add the bulkheads.  I found one that was missing a sizable portion of the middle ply and the bulwark extension was hanging by just a thread of the outer ply.  The picture is not so good, but you get the idea....
 

 
What to do, what to do?  I braced the bulkhead  and shot it full of expanding foam.  After it cured, I carved off the excess foam and hardened the exposed surface of the foam with some glue.  Came out pretty good I think.  Was a lot easier than trying to carve wood to fit exactly in the hole.
 

 

 
Gluing in the bulkheads trying to be very precise with alignment....
 

 

 
It is no secret that the bulwark extensions on the bulkheads are fragile.  But, in my kit, they were extra flimsy.  I think the laser cutter was set too hot.  Instead of making a nice little line on the surface of the wood, the reference lines burned thru the first ply and, in some cases, half way thru the center core.  You can see how that would make them even easier to break than normal.  I think I probably broke off half of them at one point or another.  If you're getting ready to start your own Syren, you may want to dab some CA on these reference marks before you remove the bulkheads from the plywood sheets.
Has anyone else had this problem, or was I just the lucky one?
 

 
Out into the garage for the next step.  Going to make lots of sawdust cutting and fitting the filler blocks.
 
Used balsa filler blocks to stiffen things up.  Shaped and sanded the filler blocks to match the bulkheads. 
 
Used a drum sander on a drill press to do the initial shaping/faring of the bulkheads. 
 

 
Back inside to start working on the gun port framing.  Used a batten and the gun port template to find a nice line across the hull.  Turns out the reference lines on my kit were dang close.  My line never varied by more than 1/32" from the reference marks.  This step is just a lot of cutting, trimming, sanding, and gluing.  Kind of relaxing.  I found that Binder clips really helped with the sills.  After dry fitting, the binder clips make a nice little shelf to sit the sill on when gluing it in and help to keep the sills nice and level.
 

 
To make it easier to install the lintels, I made little 15/32" spacers.
 

 
Now I didn't have to worry about measuring anything.  Just sit the lintels on the spacers for perfect parallel installation.
 

 
Now it's back out into the garage to sand the framing down to match the bulwarks....
 
 

HI Eric
Welcome aboard - I am just a little in front of you on my Syren build - I am in the gun port framing chapter a few pages way from you - Augie and Chuck have been very helpful to me so far - glad to see another build - I always get good ideas from others
 
Joe

Your going to do just fine, Eric.  When MSW 1.0 went down, it took with it a vast summary of Syren experience along with everything else.  There are some logs back, but without the original narratives a lot is now unexplained.  Hook up with the other Syren builders --- or they'll find you as soon as your log is up.  If you have any problems, just sing out.  Don't forget Chuck himself is the big Honcho around here and he won't let you get far afield 
 
Check out RustyJ's Syren log.  His was a scratch build but, unlike me, he knows what he's doing!!!
 
Looking forward to your log!

I know we've chatted before but this is the official  'Welcome aboard, mate'.
 
As a first time model shipwright, make Chuck's practicum your bible ----- it's what got me to where I am.  That and the help you'll find here on MSW.
 
I see you've made sanding blocks ---  you're 1/2 way home
 
Looking forward to your build.  And enjoy your maiden voyage!

Hi all.
 
Yup, another Syren.  It's popular for good reason - a quality kit, Chuck's detailed instruction set, lots of Forum support, and it's a gorgeous little ship.
 
This is my first ship model.  Yes, I know, it's too ambitious for a first build.  But I've been a hobbyist, woodworker, do-it-your-selfer all my life so I thought I'd dive into the deep end.  If I want to learn the entire skill set needed for my ultimate dream boat, the Surprise, then I need to practice on a ship that has all the same elements.
Feel free to chime in if you see me heading in the wrong direction.  I don't plan to stray from Chucks practicum, so hopefully I wont make any irreparable errors.
 
While waiting for the Syren to arrive, I set up shop in the basement using an old computer hutch as my work station.  Gathered all my hobby tools and purchased a few more.  Found some great ideas for planking clips on other folks logs, so I made some of those too.
 
The kit arrived in fine shape - good packaging by Model Expo.
Initial impressions very good.  The hardware kit is very complete.  Glad to see the bags of blocks/deadeyes - thought I was going to have to make all of 'em.  Back in the day, I built RC airplanes just when laser cutting was coming on the scene.  It has come a long way.  The laser cut parts in this kit are very precise and crisp.
 
So after a cursory inventory of all the included parts and a day of reading through the manual it's finally time to start making dust......
 
Eric