Jack12477

One more thing I forgot to include in my last up-date. Here is the most useful modeling tool I have been using lately.
 

 
My old snow blower of 25 years died just before the blizzard last month and I was fortunate to find this one in Home Depot the next day. It has been the most useful modeling tool because it has gotten me back to modeling in half the time of the old snow blower.
 
I actually had to snow blow a path around the house yesterday so the oil delivery guy could get to the filler tube. First time I ever had to do that.
 

Funny you should mention those.  I didnt want to start treenailing the other side today.  I wanted to wait until after  Tuesday which is when I will get a chance to finish that planking.  So I added some of the fancy molding.  Those thin 1/16" wide strips were the first layer of what would become the fancy molding.  It was important to add them below the ports in a special order before the other planking above the wales could be done.  This would ensure a proper run of the planks and what would become the second layer of fancy molding.
 
I actually added that today.  They were made as you usually see them,  with a scraper.   I was very careful to make sure they were very thin.  One thing I notice is that folks tend to place molding on their models that is too thick.   The molding on the Cheerful is 1/16" wide but less than 1/32" thick.   I started with strips that were 1/32" thick and after scraping,  I thinned them down even more.  It makes for a more delicate look.   In hindsight,  I could have gone even thinner.
 
 
At the bow,   the lower molding will carry over onto the stem.  But it wont be as I show it in the fourth photo.  It should be thicker in the corner between the two so the transition is smooth.  But I have only lightly tacked it in this area to show you how it may actually look.   I will try and finish that up tomorrow and I will take more pictures.   My transition onto the stem with the molding was only a test to check the run of the molding and see how it looks.  I will do it for real maybe tomorrow.
 
Take a look at the contemporary model (last photo) and you will see a standard at the bow (not a molding strip)  that will look similar to how I will eventually do it.  That is the kind of transition onto the stem I am looking for.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Really surprised how quickly these little sculpie projects were completed. 
 

 
Just noticed, I still have to stick the little boomkin on.
 

 
Flags will finish them off.... then I've got to build a display base for the smaller one.
 

 
Note the difference in the white painting of the stern.  Although the smaller scale is more like the photo of the Mayflower II, I personally prefer the looks of the larger one. 

I think this is a little more better.... larger scale makes a big difference every time.
 

 
Back to the admiral's oven.... She thinks I'm baking cookies.
Just wait 'til she tries to bite into one of these.

Chuck, a trick I learned to kill some of the intensity of the flash is to drape an ordinary white handkerchief over the flash's lens. You'll have to experiment to determine how many fold(s) of handkerchief you need to get the right intensity. Also some external flash units have the ability to cut the output by 1/2 or 1/4, especially if they are the TTL type and you're using an SLR camera.
 
Brian is right about the "daylight" vs "tungsten" light temperatures in Kelvin, except I think sunlight is 5600K and tungsten is 3200 K.

More pics...finishing out the interior

Hello all,
Another update on the longboat, got all the bulkheads broken out, you can see the mess in the bow from the extra blocking I had installed and the repair on the busted ribs. Followed this with a good sanding/fairing of the interior of the boat, take care here...to aggressive and you'll break more ribs leading to more repair (yea... I know from experience).
 
Once I was happy with the sanded finish I moved on to the cap rail, here I deviated from the instructions and made the template with card stock instead of directly on the basswood, that way I could trace it out as many times as I needed to get it right and not mess up the kit supplied wood. Glad I did cause it took three tries to get something I was satisfied with. The patterns were then cut out and transferred to the basswood sheet. The rails were cut oversize and applied then sanded to the finished dimensions supplied in the instructions.
 
The 1/32 x 1/32 trim was applied next, I used a compass set to the correct dimension to provide a guideline on the hull. This was followed by more sanding and a coat of primer. The hull was set aside to dry...while waiting I made the fore and aft platforms following the practicum, I added some battens to the undersides though, just to add more strength. These were then sanded and notches filled to fit around the respective ribs. I'm debating whether to stain these pieces or just use an oil finish on them...haven’t decided yet...
 
That's all for now, as always thanks for your time and attention, Pic follow
THX
J

Hi all,
Time for another update...
The planking of the hull is complete and the bulkheads removed.
  Like my Half Moon log, I'm planning to share my successes and failures here for the benefit of anyone interested, so with that said...one of the things I did early on was to add some extra blocking to the bow area to help shaping and fairing the hull planks...and it worked great for that, unfortunately I didn't think about this being an open boat!! so now I've alot of cleanup in the bow area to do.
  Another point to watch is the garboard length, Chuck's instructions call for it to end just beyond the splice in the keel I ran mine a little long and had a bit of an issue with plank crowding at the bow.  I manage to get everything in place with tapering and spilling but made it a lot harder then it had to be!
   Care needs to be taken when your breaking out the bulkheads as they are fragile, I snapped off a few and will need to repair them.  The primary cause was glue seepage...I used CA all throughout this process and some had crept into the laser cut lines, I like CA but I do have problems with it, I'm always gluing my fingers to parts or not using enough to hold.
  I'm debating doing a full painted finish on the longboat...the decorations supplied with the kit are top notch, but I'd like my longboat to be a little different from all the others out there.  I'll keep some natural wood finishes on the inside...the thwarts and side-rails at least...still trying to decide on the color scheme, I'll post when I make up my mind...in the interim Pics follow, as always thanks for your time and interest.
THX
J

Hey all,
This will be my second build log.  After spending a little more then a year on my Half Moon I thought I'd do something a little smaller.  I had picked up the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipways last year and thought it would fit the bill, this kit was designed for Model Shipways by our own Chuck Passaro.
 
The kit consists of laser cut basswood parts, basswood planking, dowels and all the fittings and hardware.  Also included are some nice printed decorations to apply to the sides and transom, two pages of in scale plans and a excellent practicum written by Chuck.
 
Before I get into the details of the build I'd like to share a recent experience.
  You may know that Chuck has a business making and selling model ship fittings, Syren Ship Model Company.  I recently ordered some brass cannon barrels for a future scratch build project, and looked forward to their arrival.  Which never occurred...seems the Post Office lost my order.
  I contacted Chuck to find out what kind of package was used as I needed that info for a lost package claim, well imagine my surprise when they arrived today...not my original order but a second shipment Chuck had sent, totally unsolicited, to replace my lost order.
   In this day and age this type of customer service is unheard of...and I believe noteworthy, this gentlemen has earned my future business and I hope my tale will prompt you to visit his site and maybe place an order, excellent product line and as I've stated superb customer service.  Give the site a visit. http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
 
The Longboat build:
I plan this build to be pretty much be out of the box...with the exception of the paint scheme and the supplied decorations.  I'm also toying with the idea of adding sails, billowing ones! but we'll see.
 
I started by cutting the rabbit into the false keel and gluing the keel to it, the frames were then separated from their backings and test fit... all of mine had a distinct stbd cant to them...this was easily fixed with some light file work.  The frames were then glued up, once dry they were marked with a compass to indicate where the first stark will lay. 
THX for your time and attention...Pics follow
J
 
 
 
 

DOUBLE E DED APPLICATORS
 
While wandering aimlessly around a $2 shop - following my admiral - (something I do superbly!!) I came across these `double ended applicators.' They are apparently used for applying eye makeup. They work really well for removing excess glue and, being spongy, they can easily be rinsed and reused. The only downside with them was that I got some very strange looks from the checkout girl when I bought 10 packs
 

Nice work Augie. Great looking model.

Nice work Augie. Great looking model.

Fixing to take this to the oven.  I'm curious to see how well it will clean up and take paint.
 

well i figure i'll just end up painting it traditional....otherwise it just wouldn't look like the confed.....still waiting for some swiss pear from the lumberyard for the stem and rudder etc......they said it was too cold to go out to the shed to cut the logs.........amazing....way up here in burns lake bc, it's only hovering around 0,,,,,,hope i wasn't too dynamic with the red......and i hope the slightly raised stern isn't too offensive to chuck, and those highly qualified here, and hope it won't void the warranty......i hadn't planned to do it

ok......still deciding whether or not to keep it natural, aside from the stern galleries...........
   lucked out on the inner bulwarks....everything fit reasonably well, aside from the fact i had to raise the quarter deck clamp near the stern too accommodate the slightly higher galleries
  used four pieces of thin laminated pearwood to make the cove
oh....i made a scraper for the double cove out of a xacto blade...for the 1/16th square strips....but....on the roof of the quarter galleries, i think i will sand them down and re-scrape the shape......cause i think they're too deep in contrast with the etched brass....
    i may try to apply some ca with a pin or whatever to the small flat ornaments and try to give them some dimension, or find some other way.......will see what happens.....cheers...

Time in the shipyard has been at a premium these last 2 weeks.  But we do have a small update as we cross the 900 hour mark into the build.
 
The foresheet bitts (with 'working' sheaves), foremast hoop and  deck beams have been added up in the bow.  In addition, the stove has reached it's final destination:
 

 
The last of the forecastle deck beams:
 

 
The view from the bow:
 

 
Next we'll be putting in the hanging and lodging knees and carlings.
 
 
 
 
 
 

I was asked to take a photo from the bow "right-side-up", so folks can see the run of the planks there.   I hope this will do the trick.  Let me know if there is any other questions.
 
Chuck
 

 

Walnut really pops once you hit it with a thin coat of wipe-on poly.  The little Mayflower is going through quite a transformation today.
I'll wait 'til the new white paintjob is finished to show.
 

Thank you very much.
 
I finally finished treenailing this side.   I am glad that is over.   I tried my best to take pictures of the treenails really close.  I had to mess with the settings of the camera to get the best shot.   But at least you can see the shape and detail.  They are not perfect by any stretch of the imagination.  But it does the trick.  Remember these are #78 holes.  
 
Interesting though...the last two photos are identical shots except I changed the settings.  On my camera I changed from Fluorescent to outdoor....on a setting and look at the color difference.  Freaky.  I could swear that both are representative as well.  Its funny the tricks your eyes play on you.  Only after seeing them side by side does it get so clearly different.  I couldnt even tell you which is better.  After looking at both for so long it all just blends together and gets confusing.   I think I like the third one down the  best and wont change the settings again until my kids steel the camera and screw up how I set it up.  Then I have to start all over again.  
 
I hope this helps.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Now that the bulwarks are on, I used some modeling paste for first layer (Liquitex) sanded, and then some wood filler to get the hull really smooth. And lots and lots of sanding.
 

Carl, I probably shouldn't do this, but that tiny, little country of yours has lots of linguistic problems. When I traveled around the Netherlands I could not understand people from one place to another, unless they spoke the Dutch language that they learned in school. I was born in Rotterdam and even now Dutch people notice that I talk differently from our Jordaanse neighbors, for example.
 
It took me many years to realize that part of my accent (in English) was because I kept pronouncing words that end with a 'd' like it was a 't'.
Bad would be pronounced 'bat', etc. I had a dear friend whose last name was 'van der Wardt'. No problem for you; it would be vanderWart, but an American would try to pronounce both the d and t at the end.

Ok, George, you got me. What is a 'pot-ah-to'.?? Or what ever.
 
It goes to show that folks even in the US are not in 'tune'. We talk differently and we think that Scotch, Irish, and (especially) the Welch understand each other. After all, they are on the same islands, or next door to the same one. But they have to refer  to the 'English written language' to get along. I know they learn that in school.
 
Like I mentioned; please start a new line on 'time out' or I will

OK you guys. So my English is not perfect. What I could have said is 'cage' but that would have been worse.
 
That makes me think of all the errors and grammatical problems I have had with the 'King's English'.
This being a very international site, it might be an interesting topic to start about this on 'time out'. Any volunteers?
I have a lot to contribute.
I still think 'color' is much easier than 'colour'.  But it also could be 'collar' or do you pronounce them differently?

My first ship was also an AL - Morgan's Whale boat. Since then I have built 4 more and I have 2 more waiting to be built. All in all I have had no problems. As Keith said above the wood is very good, the laser cuts parts are accurate, and the finished model looks great. The first 2 models I did the English instructions were good, but I think in some of their more recent kits they have outsourced the Spanish to English translation to someone who is not that proficient in English because some of the wording makes no sense.
 
As to historical accuracy or whether the model is fictitious, well that all depends on what you expect from the kit. If you want to build a really nice looking model of an "old" sailing ship, and want the challenge of planking and rigging them, and is somewhat accurate to the period,then they make some really nice models. But on the other hand, if you are a stickler for historical accuracy, accurately rigged and/or configured, or want a ship that actually existed, then maybe some of AL's kits aren't for you.
 
Personally I've had more trouble with Model Shipways kits and cursed them (kits) the whole time I was building  - notably the Sultana, Phantom, Morgan and Niagara, than I ever had with AL or Amati. I like AL and Amati kits, but that's my personal taste. The one exception to Model Shipways kits are the ones designed by Chuck (Passaro) with instructions written by him, those I've enjoyed building.
 
I think both Keith and Mark summed it up quite succinctly

I'm nearing completion of my first wooden kit, having scratchbuilt a few relatively simple craft before that. I've found the MS Bounty Launch to be an excellent intro kit. In general the instructions are clear, the kit is well-made, and there are only minor pitfalls and quirks that reading a few of the abundant build logs here will alert you to. 
 
It's simple enough to not be overwhelming, but as an open boat has some unique challenges that seem like they'll prepare you for many future projects. As long as you do some homework first about principles of constructing wooden boat/ship kits, I can't imagine you'd have much difficulty with the Bounty Launch. Just my experience as a first-timer.