Jack12477

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

Well done, Alan. Suitably weather-beaten.

Looking forward to this build, Alan.

What I like to do is run a thin needle with CA to add a good amount to hidden areas - interiors, etc.  Seems to work very well.  I’ve also done the same with two part epoxy.  I’m surprised you can solder such thin pieces of brass without destroying them - very impressive!
 
At some point I’ll have to learn to solder so that I can build up the GLS corvette class aftermarket.

The model is largely a home-made construction, with the mechanics being a scaled-up version of a common MOC (a Technic Version of the Liebherr 11200). The model combines regular bricks and Technic bricks. However, the electric screw cylinders that lift the boom are not original Lego, but compatible accessories from another company. The stickers were designed with Corel Draw and then printed by a printer-company on commission. Here is picture of the real crane ..

Hello everybody.  Since I couldn't get to my workshop in 2023 due to the installation of a solar system, I realized a childhood dream of mine – a scale model made of Lego. I chose the Liebherr heavy-duty crane, model 11200, as my motif. This crane can lift a maximum of 1200 tons, has nine axles, and a three-stage boom with a heavy-duty jib. The 1:18 scale model is built from around 14,000 bricks, 16 motors, and two battery boxes. It's basically remote-controlled, but due to its weight of almost 10 kg, it's not particularly stable when assembled – the limits of Lego's load-bearing capacity.
 
The model was inspired by an earlier model by a Dutch hobbyist, although it was considerably larger. It took about nine months to build, with a few hours of work every now and then. I completely assembled the crane once and extended it for a photo shoot. Now it sits retired on my shelf. A model of this size was always my dream – but due to cost reasons, it wasn't realized until later. Now back to ship modeling; the next kit is already on its way … stay tuned.

Another lovely build in miniature, well done Alan! 

Thanks for all your interest in my fumblings 😁
I managed to fix another 3 deck beams in place with two more knees and one column
I need to shape the hanging knees to move on, so they are my next job
Another along the deck view, the curve of the deck planks really shows up on this one
Until next time, 
Cheers

I agree ! Red looks better.  

Mike, I’m a bit nervous about using ca glue for the tripod legs of the foremast. Soldering them gives a strong enough joint to allow a bit of tweaking if the spread needs adjustments before fitting. I think ca works well for the yardarms, @mikegr shows an effective looking way of using ca glue on masts.
alan

I love old cars of any kind and this is a nice one!! I shall pull up a toolbox, sit myself down and follow along on this one if I may, sir.

Steps 5, 6, and 7 complete.  I now will wait for my airbrush set up before going any further.  I will start on the engine but will only do main pieces and hand paint smaller items like hoses, distributor etc.  This kit is all produced and have not run into any problems , yet.  I do require my back kit magnifier for the tiny nuts and bolts.

Wefalk,
 
Yes, a lot of the bigger flywheel'ed engines did run in a pit. And some modellers have built their Stuart Beams in to 'pit scenarios' with brickwork, railings, proper flooring etc.
 
But my simplistic layout took the easy route 😉 
 
Richard

Nice ideas !
 
Looking at the engine, I actually wondered, whether the flywheel wouldn't actually run in a pit, making the engine foundations level with the engine-house floor. At leas this was the arrangement in most of such engines in preservation that I saw.

Whilst I'm in a bit of a lull regarding model making, I have managed to add some accessories to the Beam engine layout.
 
I always wondered what a steam engine maintenance scene would look like but couldn't really find any images or info so the following 3 pictures are of what my imagination came up with.
 
I made up ...
- a hook ladder for reaching the top oiling cups. Ladder based on a chemists/librarian type design.
- a bucket to catch any drainage whislt maintenance is undergoing. 
- a late 1800s panel back chair
- a tool tray.
- tools for the tool tray eg spanner, jemmy bar, rags etc
 

 

 
 

 
All parts were made from scrap wood left over from ship sprues etc. The bucket also has some thin brass sheet formed in to bands and hooks.
 
I should really add an oil can but struggled to find out what style was used in the mid to late 1800s.
 
Richard
 

A few more additions to the boiler - rails on the front, steps up front, headlight, ... . Also cleaned up the wheels and tires and did a test fit to see the locomotive 'off the ground'.

Two things of note here. First, the instructions have the builder attaching the wheels / tires to the chassis before the cylinder assembly is added. I have already added this assembly because I wanted to paint it with the chassis as a complete unit - almost a very bad idea! Its hard to see in the above picture, but there are pieces that extend to the back of the cylinders and are part of the running gear. Turns out that with that in place, there is not enough space to slide in the first wheel / tire as one. Fortunately, if the tire is removed, the wheel just makes it into place and then the tire can follow! 
 
Second thing of note is an unexpected aid in how the wheels have been molded. There are three types of wheels for each side; the instructions label them as 1L (2), 2L, and 3L (similar for the right). While you can tell the difference by carefully looking at the counterweights, the model creator's molded the designations into the back of each wheel - a very nice touch.

Generally, I like the look of the drivers on all locomotives, but even more so the spokeless drivers like those on this machine. It continues to amaze me how precise the wheels and tires needed to be machined so that the tires could be heated and slipped onto the wheels prior to cooling.

Painting the capstan red would tie in with the other red fittings and carry the eye further aft for a balanced look.

I agree ! Red looks better.  

Hi All.  I've completed my build of the Fujimi Ferrari 288 GTO.  This is the same one built and logged by @CDW though I opted for the more traditional red instead of yellow.  And extra thanks to Craig for his build log, pointing out all the potholes with this kit and supplying a bunch of photos of the prototype.  I referenced both numerous times during my build.
 
This was definitely a challenging kit with many small parts and parts that are tricky to attach and get lined up.  But overall, I managed to include most of the parts in my build.  The decals on my old kit were definitely fragile, and the instrument panel decals were poor....they were far too large for the circular gauges molded into the panel.  Instead I just painted them.
 
You may also notice that the side windows are open.  Unfortunately that large clear piece was not completely molded so the passenger window was partially missing.  I opted to cut off both side windows and actually like the effect and may do more of this on future builds to give better view of interiors.
 
Every time I build a model car I think I am going to emulate the guys I see on youtube going nuts with clear coat and sanding and polishing and get that glass like finish.  But then after applying several coats of clear, I think to myself that it is good enough and I fear doing any sanding or polishing is more likely to ruin things.  That is especially true for a somewhat hard to find model like this one.  So I just stopped after applying the clear.   And yes, I went over to hobby lobby and bought a couple cheap, common models on their 40% off sale and I swear I will practice my highly polished, glass-like finish on those.  Maybe.
 
Anyway, here are pictures of my build.  Overall it was a fun build despite some challenges and I am very pleased with the results.
 
 

Spent a couple mornings over the weekend working on adjusting the run of the planking and fixing some low and high spots.
 
Chuck, I did flip it over    I was surprised at what each perspective on the hull was able to show.  I found several spots that needed some touch-up on the fairing that were only visible from one angle, and also some areas that were an optical illusion as you stated.  I had thought that simply inverting a photo would be sufficient, that was very wrong.  The other hulls I have done were smaller vessels and 1:64 scale so I'm learning how to spot more subtle issues across a much larger hull area.
 
Starting what is hopefully a final taping this evening.
 
Frank, thanks for the comments on the corrections I made to the stern.  I'm really happy with it now.  Good suggestion on checking the frieze, I'll check that tonight.
 
Steve

Im leaning that way also Greg.   I have gone this far replicating the colors used on the contemporary model.  
 
Chuck

Lovely capstan Chuck. Personally, I'd go for the red. The natural color ghosts out against the background. The red would pop like the other fittings along the centerline of the ship.

OK well here a few pictures of the capstan painted red.  At least folks will be able to see both choices and the decision will be easier for them.
 
I do like it better red...what do you guys think?
 

 

 

 

Roadless supplied the crawler kit as,(what we would call now, an aftermarket kit for a standard Fordson N tractor.  While some may have been used in farming, I believe the intention was more for industrial applications such as roadwork, logging and the like.
 
Andy

I have no idea, it was just a nice build