foxy

Thanks guys. It almost stumped me....... almost
 
I had these super tiny b brass nails from years ago. I wish I could remember where I got them. There are not enough to finish nailing the gudgeons to the stern. The heads on these are much smaller than anything else I have so I am now in the process of painstakingly filing down bigger nail heads to this much smaller size. Need about 15 more. I think I drilled way too many nail holes.
 

Been working on the copper plating. Going very slow. I'd hate to show a very close-up pic of the plates. I am having a very hard time not bending them. Mine look very beat up in some spots.
 

Finished the hull planking
 

I held the tooth picks in my Dremel & sanded them sharp on some sanding sticks- first coarse then fine. Just a dab of glue & stick it in the hole. I snipped them off with fingernail clippers. After sanding them down I am satisfied how they look. I just hope they wont look darker when stained because they show their end grain.
 

It doent look that bad at all.  I would take a bit more off so the bend isnt as sharp where the plank tuck up into the lower counter..
 
See these pics if it helps.  Couldnt find any of the stern unpainted.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

The gun-ports look good Jesse!  Here's what I do before starting to work with sharp objects. Since I know in advance I'll be cut anyway, I just put band-aids on all of the vulnerable areas first, so when I start to bleed, it doesn't get all over my project.   
 
Cheers

PVA probably won't stick to CA.. unless you sand down to wood where it hasn't soaked.  Which probably defeats the stiffening.   Test it on some scrap.  Also make a 50/50 mix of PVA and water and brush it onto scrap and test that.  It should soak in a harden things up a bit.

The next step is to use the template to mark where the gun port sides will be. Checking this out ahead of time I see that the one on the starboard side doesn't end up as far as the one on the port side. After scratching my head a bit on this one I recall how I broke almost every bulwark during the last steps. Looking this over I see that in gluing these back on over & over I failed to notice they didn't all end up the exact same angle as they ha started out. Some a little bit too far in & some a little bit too far out. More out on the starboard side. I will be attempting to right all this using the overhead template as a guide. I counting on most of them being able to be bent after brushing them with water & being held in place as they dry. I figure some may have to be re-glued. This I hope will make up for the very slight difference on each side. We'll see how it goes!
 
Looks like this build is going to be like my last one. Over half the time being used for problem solving. That's ok- it builds patience! (along with anger some times- lol) 

Fastened the temporary batten to line up the gun port sills. Got it lined up good & marked the line. Cut out pieces of wood & fitted them making sure they all flow in a smooth line the whole way. Had to re-cut a few of them but once I had them all right I glued them in both port & starboard. Used a metal ruler to check that they were equally level on each side.
 

I made a major mistake. I forgot to check to see if the bulkhead former was warped before I started gluing in all the bulkheads. I laid it (what little bit of the bottom edge that I could) on the edge of the kitchen counter & saw that it wasn't as straight as it should be. Now I have the dilemma of how to deal with this with everything already glued onto it. I came up with this idea. I sat it in about 1/2 inch of water just enough to soak in (as you can see I've had a few more breaks).I rigged tis wood brace with pieces that reach in between each bulkhead. I clamped this all into a bench vice. I will leave this in for about 48 hrs. The warp was very slight so I hope this will work.
 
Been wondering. My kit instructions call the frame pieces bulkheads. I see some on here are calling them bulwarks. Which is right? Are these 2 labels interchangeable?
 

Well, getting very frustrated with the computer. I wont put the pics in the correct order for some reason but you can figure it out.
 
Same bulwark broke again so I pinned it with a toothpick. Got the filler blocks all cut out & dry fitted.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Began dry fitting & beveling/fairing the bulkheads. They were very tight & I had to do a lot of sanding to get them to fit. Had to be careful not to sand too much since these things were VERY tight. Of coarse another break as usual!
 

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Thanks very much Lawrence, much better now thanks  .
 
Well have been busy of late with all the top ropes strung.



Left loose till main stay ropes have passed over mast/shroud.

Then tightened up.



With the main stay ropes in place.



One point is the main stay ropes to the bowsprit.
As all know they pass through the bowsprit and then attach to block and tackle.
For those doing this build, its advisable to add the blocks near the knights head before adding the netting and booms.
This will be a lot easier.
The blocks I used for this were of Syren manufacture and can move if ness.



Next its the stay ropes from masts to channels etc.

This is the sequence I am following for this static build.
Having good plans of the rigging helps, so far its standing rigging I am working on.

Thanks guys for all your imput and likes.

All the best Frank. 

I think it is meant to be something like this :-)
 
The  fairlead saddles.
 

 
 
                                          #86                         
 
XXXDAn

Great work Henry.
 
Wonderful work going on here.
 
Been toying with the Idea of getting this ship.
 
But with Victory and Connie later, I can't get me head around another ship.
So seeing your build makes up the difference.(so I tell my self)
 
Frank 

A great joy to follow this build. Not because of the etch you use, but because of what you make out of them!
 
Great job, Daniel

Great work Henry.
 
Wonderful work going on here.
 
Been toying with the Idea of getting this ship.
 
But with Victory and Connie later, I can't get me head around another ship.
So seeing your build makes up the difference.(so I tell my self)
 
Frank 

Still doing musket drills and demonstrations in the Navy yard.  The ships upper deck is open to the public.  I have the added benefit of  getting into the dry dock every once in a while to check whats going on with the refit.
 
Not much going on with my build at the moment. That pesky employment thing keeps getting in the way.
 
Regards,

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

I suppose there is another way to fix this.  I could make sure that I make the sail with a seam centered instead of a cloth.  Then it would work out fine.
 
In the meantime...here is a stropped clew block with a long and short eye to go around the yard

 
And here it is rose lashed to the yard.


 
Regards,

OK, so some of you may ask, why is he bouncing ahead to working on the yards before the masts are even stepped.  Well, there is a method to my madness.  Or perhaps it's just madness. I don't know.
 
I just finished the final rigging of the guns in the waist.  And now I need to put some of the rigging in that belays in the waist because once the decks, masts, and shrouds are shipped this area will be particularly hard to reach.  These lines include the sheets and braces for the fore and main course, the main yard halliard, and the spritsail sheet.
 
In order to get the lengths of these lines correct I have to temporarily put the yards in place in their proper braced in orientation.  Not only that but since the course will be clewed up I have to place the clew line blocks in their proper locations to see where the sheets will be.
 
So, then I figured if I am going to do that I should just start working on the other furniture to go on the yard.  Which leads me to be making things like cleats, boom irons and the roband bending strips shown below.
 
During the period of this ship, sails were bent directly to the yards and hung underneath the yard.  Jack stays had not been invented yet.  The robands go around the yard.  In the center of the yard, where the cleat is, this does not work so a strip with holes to take the robands was added beneath the yard.  The holes are spaced a scale 12" apart because there were two robands per sail cloth, which was about 24 inches wide.
 
Here is my take on bending strips:



 
And looking at these pictures I realize that I will probably have to strip the bending strip off and make a new one.  The holes should be shifted 1/16 inch to the right so that they will line up with the center cloth of the sail.
 
Perhaps it really is madness after all.
 
Regards,
 

Very nice work :-)
 
For the gun tackles: There are plenty of ways to store them your version I saw on the Costitution :-) But if nobody is holding the free end, I would advise to secure them somehow. Either like I did behind the pulley with a kind of half hitch that can be opened like a lacet, or Boudriot shows something secured around the breech, in your case a nice tie around the faun´s head.
 
Cheers, Daniel

Slow going in the shipyard....but progress is still being made.
 
Here is my attempt at making inner studding sail boom irons.
These are made from 24 gauge steel wire.  I start with a z-shaped bend in the wire (90 degree bends).  The section in the middle is the measurement of the distance required between the yard and the boom.  Then I flattened both ends from the bend outwards on an anvil.  The length of each flattened end is determined by the circumference of the yard and the boom.  Then bend the flattened ends to make a hoop for the yard and boom.  A final adjustment to make everything straight and the iron is done.  The piece still needs to be soldered closed and blackened.  I will solder the hoops slightly smaller so that they are a jam fit at the proper place on the yard and boom.  The last photo shows the boom temporarily in place. The outer boom iron will be replaced with my own also.  That one will be a smaller version of the inner.  R.C. Anderson suggests that the style of outer boom iron shown in this photo did not come into use until the eighteenth century by the English.  
 
Hope you enjoy