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foxy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed.
So now working diff size blocks with loops.
Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts.
Using brass sheave and .020 rope.
To give this effect, which will hold ropes later.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from etubino in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Well moved on a touch with the blocks etc.
As promised have cleaned up and added blocks to the lookout tops, not sure if the Mizzen mast has these blocks beneath, cannot find any ref to them in my books.
But the Heller kit has three holes each side for them.
Also added the Syen double blocks to the main and fore yards.
Also added the Bluejackets white metal twin blocks.
More later.
Frank
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foxy reacted to davidk in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Thank You!
Not sure if I'll catch up...I plan on taking it slowly, and by all accounts this model is one that requires a long-term commitment.
Dave
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Hello all,
I got tired of making bolts for my cannon carriages so I decided to put the riggers to work starting to prepare the rigging.
Decided to start with the main stay: Here is a summary of the process
The line I am using is Morope. An eye is turned in on the end with a circumference just large enough for the stay to pass through. Morope is tricky to unlay for splicing because it is nylon. When cut it will just fall apart I separated the strands with a toothpick and touched a drop of CA to each before cutting so that the strands would not unravel. The eye was then serviced with sewing thread with the serving continued over the splice. The stay was then wormed for one third of its length from the eye. I did not bother with parcelling. The mouse was then raised on the stay to it's proper shape and size with sewing thread then pointed over to finish. The mouse is several hours worth of work with the needle and thread
I hope you enjoy
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
In between rigging 2mm blocks for all the cannon I decided to take breaks by doing some other small tasks.
For some strange reason the masts have a molded gap just above the hounds. Nothing goes in here and it looks out of place with the trestle trees in place so I filled in with strip styrene.
I changed the angle of the groove for the toprope to a better lead for the top block under the mast cap.
I added coamings to the companionways on the gun deck and quarter deck.
I added bolsters to the trestle trees.
Next up is adding eyebolts to the main and fore halliard knight heads. Of course I found out these were needed after the knights were installed in the decks and there is no room to get a drill bit in to make the holes. But, I'm sure I'll figure out a way.
Once I finish the cannons and the various parts on the decks I will run into the next big hurdle...deadeyes. The ones supplied with the kit are horrible. They are completely flat and the plastic strops are out of scale. I have been searching online for sources of deadeyes and most are disappointing and not the correct sizes. It seems that I am going to need 5 sizes of deadeyes from 5.5mm down to 2mm. I may try to make my own.
I'm bringing the build in on Tuesday for showing at the next Constitution Model Shipwright Guild meeting for critique and advise. The guild members, like the members here, always have great advise.
Thanks for watching.
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foxy reacted to dafi in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Very nice work Henry :-)
If you did not do all the carriages yet: It also is a further improvement, if you change the position of the wheels and axles a bit. The front one more to the front, the aft one more aft. Also the trunnions of the barrels could be moved to a correct more backwards position.
Is the big ring in the middle for the breeching rope as this one runs through the middle of the carriage??
All the best, Daniel
Edit: this is what I meant with the repositioning
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
The quarter galleries have been fitted to the hull with their inset decorative motifs affixed to the inside.
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Block and Tackle for Cannons:
I have been working for some time on a method for stropping blocks with hooks and I think I've decided on a workable solution. The blocks I am using for the gun and train tackles for the cannons are Chuck Passaro's 2 mm blocks. The strops are made with black polyester sewing thread and the hooks are formed from 28 gauge steel wire. For this 2 mm block the strop is about 9 mm long.
An eye is made in the thread by tucking the end twice between the strands.
The serving machine is employed to serve over a couple of turns of the thread.
Hooks are either with the eye perpendicular to the hook or with the eye on the same plane.
A hook is threaded onto the strop and the ends of the strop closed by passing the end of the thread through the eyes of the strop.
I made a seizing jig by filing a pin down to fit the holes of a 2 mm block and placing a few more pins to tension the hook and strop on the block
Another pin is inserted to form the eye of the strop around
The free end is passed around the strop between the pin and the block to seize the sides of the strop together, hove tight, and secured with a clove hitch.
The finished blocks:
The 2 mm blocks are really hard to work with because they are so small. I think as I get better with this I want to make the eye of the hook smaller, the eye of the strop smaller, and the strop itself thinner diameter. They all seem to be a little large for this block.
Next up is figuring out how to make a good looking becket for the standing part of the tackle to seize to.
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
I had a bit of a set back (at least in my mind) and I would like your opinions. After taking a long time with painting all of that gilt work on the ships sides, stern and quarter galleries, I wanted to put a coat of lacquer over all to protect the paint. I sprayed the sides with dull cote and the result is to my eye a bit disheartening. I do not like how dull the gold becomes, but I do not think there is any way to fix it, or if I should even try.
I am thinking of leaving the quarter galleries and stern with more of a bright finish even though there will be a contrast with the sides.
What do you think? Any suggestions?
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Finally have some new progress to report. Seems like there is never enough time to work on the build.
I am working on correcting the deficiencies in the head of the ship. Since no one really knows what this area of the ship looked like I took some artistic license. I was also pointed in the direction of a build log on another site which gave me some good ideas.
Here's what I came up with:
I filled the space between the cheeks with a billet carved from styrene stock. Then I cast some silicone molds using the decoration on one of the quarter galleries and cast some pieces in resin.
Here are the resin pieces mounted and painted
Next I carved some head rail timbers from strip styrene
And mounted them
Then I cast another decoration to ornament the head timbers and mounted them to finish out this project
And here is a couple of pics with the head rails and grating temporarily fitted
That's all for now.
Thanks for looking in on the build.
P.S. I'm hoping this is not too horrible a build. No one has commented yet
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
Here is the start on some of the brightwork. The unpainted area of the after bulwarks is where the quarter gallery will go.
I opened the quarter galleries. Still working on fitting floors for the quarter galleries out of sheet styrene. The ornamentation that was cut out of the openings will be mounted on the bulwarks.
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foxy reacted to popeye2sea in Le Soleil Royal by popeye2sea - Heller - PLASTIC - 1:100
I've finally found the time to reconstruct my build log after the great crash of 2013
Some of the pictures are lost so the log does not start at the beginning.
This is my first serious foray into ship modeling. I say first serious attempt because 30+ years ago I built a Revell USS Constitution. But I was still in High School and not very concerned with accuracy or craftsmanship. I just wanted to finish the kit and display it. This kit of Soleil Royal was given to me as a gift way back then and I am just getting around to continuing building it.
I am very much looking forward to a build that I can be proud of. Even though I know that my skills are not up to par with some of you I am trying to incorporate as much research and accuracy as I can muster in a plastic kit.
Here are some of the pictures of what has been done. I'll try to summarize what I've done so far to catch everyone up.
I decided to display the ship with all gunports closed to starboard and opened on the port side. Eventually I plan on setting just the fighting sails (topsails, mizzen, and perhaps the spritsail topsail) with the courses clewed up.
I did not like the look of the eyebolts supplied with the kit so I replaced them with brass. The holes for them were drilled and the eyebolts pass completely through the upper wale. The ends will be trimmed and bent over to lay alongside the inner bulkhead. The ends will lay inside the gap between the hull and the upper bulwarks, in an area that needs to be filled anyway. Doing the eyebolts this way should also prevent any pullout cause by strain from rigging.
I am leaving the lower hull unpainted for now until a proper cradle/base is finished. I don't want to ruin the paint job. It will be painted a dirty white to represent white stuff. I also drilled a hole through the bottom of the keel, roughly amidships, and fastened a threaded nut inside the hull over it prior to fitting the decks. This will take a bolt from the base to fasten the model down to it. I don't know how other people secure their models to the display bases so I just improvised with what I had on hand.
The head grating in the bow has been noted by others to be a problem with this kit. It has no supporting structure to it and seems to be just floating there. I do not know how this would have looked with respect to ornamentations and design, so I have not decided what to do with this area yet. [/size]
The decks went in easily. The kit has a series of stanchions along the centerline of the first battery deck to support the 2nd battery deck. There are none for between the 2nd and 3rd battery. As a result there is a lot of flex in the 3rd battery deck. Since there will be quite a bit of rigging fastened here that will produce an upward strain on the deck I added some extra support. I trimmed some sprue to length to make stanchions for the centerline to hold the deck up. And I added a boot (coat?) to the base of the mainmast to hold the deck down. The mast coat was fashioned from sheet styrene and quarter round molding. The masts are dry fit at this point. I do not think I will cement them to the step. I'm going to let the rigging hold them in.
I added some shims beneath the hatch gratings to raise the gratings above the deck level to give the appearance of a coaming. All of the eyebolts for the decks were replaced with brass.
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foxy got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Thanks Daniel, David and Keith shipmates.
No not watch's David, but had good eyesight, now have to wear glasses,(not to strong mind you).
I do sometimes use an optivizor .
Not bad for 70 plus.
Frank
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foxy reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
There were three options for the cabins: wood, canvas on a wooden frame and pure canvas like a shower curtain.
All three versions of course were taken down in case of clearing the decks, but this is well known from the captains and admiral room bulkheads, as seen too in MaC ;-)
For the canvas I used washi paper for model planes, primed with clear varnish and put several thin layers of white and light rust paint (white paint with rusty stirring screws). Applied both sides of course.
For the gunners cabin I opted for the semifixed cabin with canvas on a wooden frame, as he surely had some material and documents to be kept off the reach of curious hands. The other cabins probably will be the shower curtains, just lets see how this works in the model.
Funnily the transparency turned out just like I wanted it too :-)
Took the cardboard template out and fitted the wooden frame accordingly onto the canvas ...
... opened the door ...
... fixed the bit in place and the gunner might move in. For sure he still will bring some chests, his kit and some bedding stuff to satisfy his nesting instinct and to feel home and cosy :-)
Also the first lieutenant has already his place fixed ...
... while those two little shipyard workers still discuss on how to proceed further ...
Cheers, Daniel -
foxy reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
And always a highlight for me, Revell´s Cutty. I simply love those hybrid builds, that make wonders out of a heap of plastic !
And here some proud ship builders :-)
Kingsley
Phantom-Robert, aka Tarjack the boneman ...
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1749-hmy-royal-caroline-1749-by-tarjack-made-from-bone-m-1-50/?hl=%2Bbone+%2Bcaroline
... my treassssssssure!
THE dafi
End day one :-)
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foxy reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
This weekend, lifestyle trade show at Stuttgart, near my home. And guess what, the friends from Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau (Work group historical ship building) had a small booth in the hobby hall :-)
So there was to be tinkered publicly ...
... talked ...
... to be engrossed into building ...
... discussed ...
... looked up ...
... conversated ...
... immersed even more into model building ...
... and for a change some chatted and gossiped.
Robert explained the esprit of his Phantom ...
... while poor Joachim had to listen for half an hour to this dear man who explained to him, why Alexander´s Sphynx is not relly well done - to put it politely ;-)
Joachim: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/836-amerigo-vespucci-by-schiffebastler-mantua-model-scale-184-italien-sail-training-ship-build-1931/
How will Alex react? How will he deal with this truth? See day two ...
Sphinx: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/page-12#entry258120
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foxy reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
And on we go with some trifles :-)
I was wondering how to create furniture without it looking like dollhouse toys. Ok, off I went to find out.
Luckily I was successful, only have to stick to the true dimensions :-)
Here the substructure, fast done and quite stable.
Contemporary drawings always show the tables direction fore aft, so I displayed them over the massive partner of the sternpost. Like this canvas cabins could be erected on the ship´s sides.
The openings on the deck are no litter bins but aft there are the two scuttles of the ventilation trunks of the hold and in the front the scuttle for the bread room and in the middle the one for the Lady´s hole, means the stuff of the gunner. The gratings are flipped open for better ventilation.
Here we already have the name of the area, the gun room. The gunner had his quarters here and was then highest warrent officer in this area.He had a canvas cabin on starboard and larboard was the one from the chaplin. The area also was the mess for the warrent officers, junior lieutenants, marine officers and first class volunteers. Here also the chaplin taught the junior midshipmen. The Area was separeted from the rest of the deck by means of canvas covers.
Still have to redo the canvas blinds, but they work well as layout separations.
I hope, I got the details right,
cheers Daniel
PS: Could not resist to show the Tic Tac in place :-)
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foxy got a reaction from Dimitris71 in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed.
So now working diff size blocks with loops.
Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts.
Using brass sheave and .020 rope.
To give this effect, which will hold ropes later.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Been experimenting with diff size rope/thread to make loops. There are lots of these loop rings.
The smallest rope from Syren seems to be the ticket here.
Needing two each end of the sprityard made me think on this problem.
Just tied around a pin and glued, once set it holds its shape and you just fix to the yard etc.
Will need loads of these later in the build.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from Bob the Builder in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed.
So now working diff size blocks with loops.
Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts.
Using brass sheave and .020 rope.
To give this effect, which will hold ropes later.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from hexnut in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed.
So now working diff size blocks with loops.
Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts.
Using brass sheave and .020 rope.
To give this effect, which will hold ropes later.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from clearway in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed.
So now working diff size blocks with loops.
Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts.
Using brass sheave and .020 rope.
To give this effect, which will hold ropes later.
Frank
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foxy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Thank E kindly dragzz
Some more progress with the lower deck buttoned up.
One other thing I have been playing around with is the port hatch ropes.
Instead of drilling lots of holes, I hope to attach with plastic to the hull.
Experimenting.
foxy
Some more pictures of the middle deck now.
Added the deck and yes the planking is wrong but did it the same time as the lower deck, Next deck will have the right space's.
Added deck hatch's steps to lower deck and capstans, main and jeer.
Also at this time the stern rear windows, this so all will sit right.
Still to finish the crown, leaving it till later so as no damage comes to it.
foxy
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foxy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Thanks shipmates.
Yep flying is the word, just enjoying this build so much, with the use of wood has changed the whole concept of this build.
Thought only of plastic/Resin and brass, now wood.
Have managed to change all spars to wood or brass, this should make all stronger.
the work so far.
foxy
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foxy got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HMS Victory by foxy - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC - with Dafi's etch & resin set
Next its back to the wood instead of plastic.
This time the boom gaff.
Kept the plastic mast end as it will be strong enuff with a brass pin holding both the plastic and wood.
The end tip I added a brass ring.
Next its a test fit of the middle deck, this comes in two parts witch will make it easier to file the outer ends to fit and line up with the masts/capstans and grating.
More soon
foxy