palmerit

I'm not an expert - one thing I'd recommend: That looks like green Frog tape (or similar). For masking at the edge of painting a line like that, Tamiya tape (which is yellow in its thicker versions, white in its thinner) is significantly better (I've seen people test alternatives on YouTube and the difference is pretty striking) - it comes in a bunch of sizes (from really tiny to wide). It's kind of expensive (certainly compared to Frog tape) but you do not use much, especially if you just use it to mask lines being painted. Also, after you put the tape down, "burnish" the line by running the back of your fingernail or the back end of a paint brush along the line. Another trick for painting a line: Imagine you are painting the top white and the bottom red and you already painted the top. After masking the line with (Tamiya) tape, paint white along the line and let it dry, so some white paint is where you'll be painting red and on the tape. Then paint the red. That one layer of white paint can really help keeping a fine line (along with using Tamiya tape and burnishing), limiting the bleed through under the tape. I learned all those tricks here and the most recent line I marked off and painted was nearly perfect compared to the first couple of times I tried just using tape alone. Depending on how OCD you are, you may still have some bleed through you'd need to touch up with a tiny paint brush, but doing these things can help keep the bulk of the line crisp.

I like this Curtis_Wooden_Shipyard video on tying ratlines. I also liked his tweezers for doing this and bought a couple. Bernina 90 degree tweezers: https://www.universityofsewing.com/shop/c/p/BERNINA-Tweezers-8-Series-x53811611.htm

I’ve never been able to get the finish with paint brushes that I can with an airbrush. On a 1:64 scale ship, any visible brush stroke is going to be out-of-scale. I’ve seen people do a great job with a brush. But even with high quality paint and brushes, when painting a model or painting trim in my house, I’ve always gotten brush strokes.

Some people are really good at applying paint with a bush without visible brushstrokes - don’t know if that’s from using very thinned paint with multiple layers or well-honed technique. I do use a brush for touch up (often a very small 000 point brush) but an airbrush works nicely. It’s not cheap to kit out certainly compared to a few brushes.

Thinning would be a good option (and practice). Make sure you thin with the right product. Some paints can be thinned with water. Others really need to use the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. I suppose doing something with the engraving depends on the model manufacturer. I've never seen a need for that with a Vanguard model. The engravings on the wood are crisp.

I pulled a screen shot from my first (Sherbourne) and second (Ranger) planking. I realized I didn't have a shot of my Ranger before I used some wood filler.

I'm thinking next Vanguard model I build I would like to buy some extra pear wood strips for the planking. There were times I cut a strip too short or shaped them too thin or too fat or was unhappy with a few after adding them and would have liked to strip them off. The model kits come with extras, but not enough to set a high bar for what makes it on the model. Someone shared with me a photo recently of someone's build - I think of one of the Syren kits - with more trashed planking strips than ones that actually made it on the model. @chris watton Can we order more pear strip wood for planking from you? Or can you point to where you get yours from? Or is pear wood pear wood wherever you get it, so long as it is the right dimensions? I suppose I could just order from https://www.modelerssawmill.com and compare with the wood with the next Vanguard kit (and either combine them together or use the unused pear from that Vanguard kit for the next Vanguard kit if it uses the same second planking dimensions).

Finished the second planking and did some standing. I still need to sand a bit more in a few spots. But being my third real strip planking (the first being my Vanguard Sherbourne, second being my Vanguard Ranger) I can see my slow improvement.

Definitely look for HSS bits for a pin vise or dremel. Lots of the ones on Amazon aren’t and they snap easily (echoing what @wefalck said). Nothing more fun than having a piece of drill bit break off inside for model.

Call the fraud dept for that card - they might have just blocked it. I bought two things at the Apple Store recently with my Apple CC and Apple detected the second Apple purchase erroneously as fraud.

Elmers wood filler is less gritty than Minwax filler (the only two I’ve tried). Some swear by Bondo (for filling car metal) at least if sanding and painting. For small filling, especially if intending to leave wood (not painting), the best is a slurry of wood left from sanding (the same wood you’re filling) white glue, and water.

@Knocklouder did you happen to check if the Smithsonian has plans you can get for the Harriet Lane? I know from Olha’s Gunship Philadelphia build that Smithsonian plans can really help to go beyond what’s in a kit. I haven’t yet splurged on buying the indexes of plans from the Smithsonian.

Do you just keep a bowl of acetone and a rag nearby?

I bought some Bob Smith before, but I don't think I got a medium one. Is this the right one? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/insta-cure-gap-filling-1oz/BSI00000107/product.php?kw=bob,smith I'm gathering from what I read above that the Super-BSI Gold+ medium gap filling is similar but odorless: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/super-gold-1oz-medium-gap-filling/BSI00000127/product.php?kw=bob,smith

What kind (brand) of medium CA do you use for this? And what do you use as an applicator? Something like a pin? I've made the mistake of using a thin CA and that stuff really wicks up the rigging line.

My older son had taken a "wood turning" course in high school - with only 4 students (all seniors) taught by the high school principal because they had only 4 lathes. I thought about getting one just to have something to play with - adding another wood hobby - that I could also use potentially with model ships (even if knowing this wasn't a need, but yet another toy to play with). Ultimately, I think it's pretty clear that a lathe is a want, not a need. I thought it was a need before discovering (i.e., reading about, seeing recommended) the electrical drill trick. I'd imagine even for scratch building, you might put a mill or nice scroll saw ahead of a lathe.

I looked onto getting one hoping to use one for other things - putting a mast or yard in the end of an electric drill (covered to protect it) has worked well for now. A challenge is finding a lathe that can do small pieces and larger ones too - not that I’ve looked too hard yet (maybe when I retire).

I have the new version from Model Shipways in my stash to build. It’ll be interesting to see how different this one is, apart from the scale.

I’d probably start with a plastic kit. Or even a LEGO kit. Or build a wooden kit together with him. Or all three. The Lego Endurance is a great model. Don’t know if he is interested or good at legos. It is a ship. And a cool looking one. I built it. Maybe you and he could work on it together. When my sons were his age, my job was to find the pieces. Neither of my boys took to plastic kits like I did as a kid. But between the two of them, we probably spent well over $20K in Legos over the past 25 years. They still ask for them sometimes and they’re in their 20s. I once got a wooden plane model as a kid and I started it and never finished.

One piece of advice: Buy blades (for a scalpel or hobby knife) in packs of 100 and change them often.

I’m no expert, but is the shellac new? I’ve been reading that it can “go bad” in a year. I’ve used some recently that bought a year ago and after applying it’s gotten tacky, unlike before. I’m switching to using flakes next time, dating my jars and making them in small quantities. I’ll see if that helps.

So would you recommend using your cannons unfinished? Or painting them?

I did this in parallel with other kits. It helped me understand the geometry you’re trying to achieve when you edge bend and regular bend strip planks used on most models. It might actually be more useful after you try building a model with strip planks since the Smack does not use them. My first model I started was the Vanguard Sherbourne and my planking was absolute garbage. I did the Half Hull because I wasn’t getting it. You might do a strip plank model, read about how to do planking, and if it all comes together then maybe you don’t need to do the Half Hull. I needed it. Note that the Half Hull has you create templates out of paper or tape or tag board which you then use as a template on large flat basswood sheets. No other model I’ve seen does that. You kind of are building from scratch the hull pieces that are lasercut on a model like the Smack.

While I haven't build an Occre model, I understand that the Polaris is intended as a beginner model from a good company. And there are lots of build logs here to learn from. I don't know if you can get more basic than that - except for doing something like a Dory and Pram from Model Shipways / Model Expo. What company is the viking boat from - avoid buying garbage cheap kits you might find on amazon. They'd be more of a headache and the opposite of a learning experience from everything I've read. Is the viking list listed as a beginner kit? One think I've learned is that size and the seeming simplicity of the finished model is not an indication of its difficulty. One of the kits I'm working on now is the Maine Peabod, just a little canoe, simple in form, and it has been the most difficult planking I've yet to do - I wasn't surprised by that, I got it because it used lots of little strip planks and I wanted the challenge (though I've seen some comment that maybe they would get that as their first model, which would be a serious mistake). Some viking boats might have clinker planking, which would add a whole other layer of complexity. Make a build log. It can be as simple or complex as you want. I just post from my iPhone. Sometimes I write long entries. Sometimes it's just a brief progress report and a few photos to share. People who have built the Polaris before might click on "Follow topic" and then any time you post they will get a notification - so if you do hit a rough spot, someone who built the kit might be able to chime in with a suggestion. I tend to follow builds of kits I've built - not that I'm an expert by any means, but I just built some of those models in the past year and might be able to share a suggestion, or even commiserate if the instructions are confusing or a part does not seem to fit right.

I’m curious if lathes are either sized for small work (like on a model ship) OR larger work (like turning a bowl, or if here are lathes that do both. Is it simply a trade off of small for precision at the price of limited diameter of a piece vs larger for the power (with less needed precision) to turn something many times larger than what you’d need for a model ship. Or does BOTH mean paying 10x the price?