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palmerit

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Everything posted by palmerit

  1. palmerit
    Definitely check other build logs. You’ll see mistakes you can avoid. And you’ll find problems that are commonly experienced. Some model instructions are confusing or incomplete. Sometimes the model parts have changed a bit but the instructions have not.
  2. palmerit
    You probably don't have to copy photos to your computer before uploading here. If you have a browser on your smart phone you can just post from your phone and upload photos. If you don't like typing long entries from your phone, you can still upload your photos to a post from your phone and then hop on your computer and edit your post to add more text from your regular keyboard. I always upload photos from my phone. I only just discovered that when you upload photos on an iphone there's a way to select what size you want to upload (I've been uploading the full size from my iPhone and they were probably too big) - there's an options button in the corner of where you upload photos from your phone and you can select full size, large, medium, small.
  3. palmerit
    I was also completely lost by the “gain” too. @Bryan Woods pointed me to the@modeller_masa build of the Pram that had some drawings. I didn’t understand what I was doing and why until I had it done (kind of) and it made sense.
  4. palmerit
    Just wondering what color combinations make sense. I usually use Vallejo air brush paints.
  5. palmerit
    Anyone have pointers on paint color options for a Dory? The Midwest kit doesn’t come with paint. I might have some paints I can use, but if I want some new colors I’d like to order so I have them in hand when I’m ready to paint.
  6. palmerit
    @JacquesCousteau I haven't heard about the "burnish the edge" trick. Is that after it's laid down on the surface?
  7. palmerit
    Definitely Tamiya tape. It's not only worked for me but I've found Youtube videos doing comparisons. Way better than frog tape (or regular masking tape). It's pricey but you don't use much of it. As noted, it comes in a bunch of widths. I use the narrow for curves, wider for when I just want to mask areas off. I opted to buy an Iwata Airbrush and have used Vallejo air paints. I also have some Vallejo brush paints. Airbrushing is a luxury (and if you're inside you want a booth to exhaust fumes) but it really does a nice job making a smooth coat. I've been working on a Vanguard (Sherbourne) model and painted some of the wood that had etchings on it and the etchings with airbrushing show perfectly. I'm sure someone with a deft hand could achieve that with a brush (especially if you thin the paint and do multiple layers). It's easier with an airbrush (once you learn how to use it). An airbrush is probably in the same category as a lathe (or a mill) in that it's certainly not necessary but nice to have (I have yet to splurge on a lathe or mill but have bought some other "unnecessary" toys). You definitely want to research the right primer for painting PE parts - lots of models come with them. You can't just use regular primer. I researched a bit on YouTube (the Fine Scale Modeler channel has a comparison) and on their recommendation got Tamiya Surface Primer (even though I use Vallejo paints). Regular acrylic primer doesn't work on PE.
  8. palmerit
    Do you mean where the knee is attached relative to the point at the bottom? The instructions provide a drawing that I tried to follow.
  9. palmerit
    Gluing the transom to the bottom.
  10. palmerit
    The stern and bow knees are made by gluing two pieces together. After drying overnight I sanded off the char and glued the stern knee to the stern transom. The instructions for the front stem knee require measuring and marking two dots 1/8” inches from the front edge of the stem. But the stem is in total 1/8” wide. So I’m guessing it should be 1/16”. The instructions unfortunately don’t specify how far from the top and bottom to mark these two dots.
  11. palmerit
    I'm with you on that. I want something between just tying a plain knot and doing some intricate realistic rigging that you'd never even notice at 1:64 scale (let alone be something that I'd probably never be able to pull off, even at a far larger scale). I've seen some good videos on Youtube for doing ratlines (including using a clove hitch, which is pretty simple). I've also seen some videos on how to seize/whip a line (I bought a fly fishing tool for seizing but I haven't tried it yet). Please post if you find any of the books especially useful.
  12. palmerit
    Some of the planks at the stern were not laying flat so I used my trusty clamps. I know I could have sanded and filled, but I’d rather try to get everything to lay flat as much as possible before sanding and filling.
  13. palmerit
    I’ve found that clamps like these can use useful.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
  14. palmerit
    Instructions say “there are two, Number Two (#2), die-cut sheets”. There’s only one #2 with twice as many parts.
  15. palmerit
    The instructions show the layout of sheet #1 and shade in the transom and stern cleat but the actual sheet is organized in a different way.
  16. palmerit
    Scribing lines from the plans onto the bottom plank.
  17. palmerit
    The instructions and other build logs seem to require using the plans to line up pieces for gluing. So I took the plans to the FedEx near my office and had a couple copies made for around $5 (I probably only needed one copy).
  18. palmerit
    Has anyone used Pavel Nikitin Rope? I see that it's on deep discount at Model Expo. I was thinking of maybe getting some to replace the rope that comes with a couple of my Model Shipways / Midwest Products model kits. I saw that for the Midwest Dory kit I have that it lists on the parts list rope as: #6 x 3 feet #24 x 1 foot What does #6 and #24 translate into in terms of inches or mm when it comes to rope? I thought maybe it was like machinists measurements, but a #6 would be 5.1816mm and I'm pretty sure there wasn't a rope in the kit that thick (I'm at work, not at home, so maybe I'm wrong). Any ideas?
  19. palmerit
    And this had some photos of a real Dory:
  20. palmerit
    There are a couple other build logs of the Midwest Dory (more of the Model Shipways Dory, which is part of the Shipwright Series; there is also a Bluejacket Dory):
  21. palmerit
    I am starting to build another Dory, this one from Midwest Products (a division of Model Shipways / Model Expo). I think I read that Model Shipways / Model Expo bought the designs for the Midwest Products kits and have been reissuing them with better materials. I think I also read somewhere that the old Midwest Products kits might have used balsa wood - this one uses basswood - but I don't know how long ago that was. I'm planking my Ranger slowly and researching and reading how to rig my Sherbourne. I didn't want to start another complicated kit and remembered that I had bought this kit in my buying frenzy during a Model Expo sale in the fall. It will be interesting to see how this build differs from the other Dory I build. Unlike the other Dory, this one is larger scale (1:12 instead of 1:24) and has a sail. These easy kits can be completed quickly and let me try out different approaches that I likely will be able to use on more complicated kits, and maybe be able to make progress more quickly on those than I might if I had just plunged into larger complicated kits more quickly.
  22. palmerit
    Continuing with the planking a little at a time. This is why I work on multiple models at once; I’d rather get something glued in place carefully and let it cure than struggle to get multiple pieces (especially of planks) added at the same time.
  23. palmerit
    For anyone following (or finding) my build log - and for future me trying to remember - there’s a useful discussion of rigging here:
  24. palmerit
    That’s perfectly to fine with me. Thanks for posting.
  25. palmerit
    If you get the Antscherl book, please post comments about it here so I know if it's worth it.

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