palmerit
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Everything posted by palmerit
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There are lots of build logs for the Sherbourne. Definitely learn a lot by seeing what others have done and learned from. I'm still learning from mine.
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First time trying to add shrouds and deadeyes. I can see why next to planking, many characterize this as one of the hardest parts of making models ships. Definitely a slow process to try to get them close to being right. There needs to be a seizing at the top between the two halves of the line after it loops around the mast. I did it kind of loose to make sure I could adjust the relative lengths of the two ends to try to make them even horizontally. No magic tricks to doing this, just fiddling and patience.
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Continuing to make progress on my rigging. Takes patience and researching at every step, learning along the way, plenty of mistakes and do-overs. While I did a bit of simple rigging on the Pram and Smack, this is my first real rigging (on what is technically my first model - first started).
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I use iPhone, not Android, so maybe my response won't be helpful. While I often browse from my computer, I always post directly from my iPhone. When I go to "Add Files" on my phone, I select "Photo Library" and add from there (it opens the default folder where my photos are stored), but I don't know if the interface on an Android looks different. You can send from your phone to your computer and post from there, but I have to think there's also some way to post directly from your phone so long as you're logged into modelshipworld on a browser on your phone.
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It also depends on the type and thickness of wood. You wouldn't want to soak thin strips of basswood for a long time. In fact, just some surface water before using the plank bender would likely be more than enough for a regular bend with basswood. Edge bends of thick strips of basswood would benefit from a longer soak.
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@chris watton @James H I noticed small hooks PE-4 in the kit but I didn’t see where they are used in the model or on the plans. I scanned them but could have missed where they might be used. I’m still new to rigging. Are they just not used (or did I miss where)? Or could they be used in some places where a block is tied to an eyebolt? If so, is there a principle for when one of these hooks might be used or not? There’s a place where a block needs to be tied to an eyebolt in a pretty tight spot. I’ve pasted the spot in the plans and where it would go on my model. Would this be a good place to use one of those hooks? I've seen that hooks are used when rigging cannon, but cannons are not rigged on this model (I know they could be). I know I can do whatever I want. It’s my model. But I’m trying to get an idea of what might be realistic.
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I've pasted below a useful set of posts on this site that have links to videos on planking (in English). One challenge of plank bending is that you sometimes (often) need to bend in two directions, as illustrated in the Passaro videos. It takes a good bit of practice and experience to understand plank bending. It's probably the most challenge aspect of this hobby. It's good practice to try to get the plank bending right. Sometimes you just need to rip off a plank and redo it. A lot of people recommend treating each plank as its own "project". If you're painting the model, you can certainly use a lot of filler (wood filler or bondo) and do lots of sanding. My first planking was really stepped (clinker) and a mess. But with a ton of filler, sanding, filler, sanding I was able to get a descent hull that looked fairly good after painting. The masters at this art can just leave the planks bare, just finished with some shellac. Maybe someday I'll be able to do that myself. The Modelkit Stuff channel has a Vanguard Model Sherbourne build going on that has some videos on plank bending. https://www.youtube.com/@ModelkitStuff Another great resource is the YouTube video channel by Olha Batchvarov. She's now working on the Model Shipways Philadelphia and that has some fairly simple plank bending. https://www.youtube.com/c/OlhaBatchvarov An useful aspect of Olha's Philadelphia videos, where she is building in real time live, is that even though she is an expert model building, she is still spending hours and hours on the planking of a fairly simple hull. There really are no shortcuts to doing this right.
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- 177 replies
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Yeah, we visited the Arabia last year. Worth a visit. (And if you're an opera fan, the Lyric Opera of KC is great. Their performance center is beautiful. That's what brought us to KC. And they have a great art museum.) Given the tiny amount for a tourist to do in KC (I live in Nashville so I'd love more tourists to find another city to visit), I'm surprised the city is not more interested in keeping the Arabia and expanding. But maybe the family who runs the museum wants too much. One of the guys who found the Arabia was there talking with visitors. He's now in his 90s. I got a chance to have a pretty long conversation with one of the sons of the guys who found it, talking about the possible relocation sites. He was a kid when they found the boat and was telling me about being on the site. He's now in his 40s. I think their lease runs out in fall 2026, but given how much stuff they have they will probably need to close down months before then, assuming KC does not come to an agreement to stay. The collection of artifacts is amazing. They couldn't recover, let along document, more of the structure because they were digging in a farmer's field and the farmer gave them until the start of planting season to be gone. They said that they're looking to start an archaeological dig of a steamboat of a different era, like from the fur trapping years.
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Vanguard makes great models. There are a bunch of great Vanguard models that are Level II. I’m working my way to the Harpy or another Vanguard model of that complexity someday.
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Added blocks to one of the spars and to the bowsprit. One of then blocks attached to the spar will have a becket (loop) at the top but I’ll wait to add that loop until I attach the running rigging it attaches to.
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In the Modelkit Stuff build of the Sherbourne, I saw that he does a block-with-becket that is tied on an eyebolt (loop-block-loop). It turned out to be a way I was trying to do it (not entirely successfully). The main difference is that he first created the loop that the outside becket was being attached to. It’s Part 23 of the build, right at the beginning, after the intro.
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I think I saw you say in a YouTube video interview with David Antscherl that "The Fully Framed Model" series might be appearing again in print (I know they are available electronically). Just wondering if that's happening and when they might appear? I was considering getting a copy of Vol. IV to help with thinking about rigging - even if I have no plans for many many years to consider a build like the Swan.
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This is the next bit on the plans to do. A bit more complicated. I’m showing a drawing from Lennarth that Modelkit Stuff showed in Video 19 of the Sherbourne build.
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Working on the thimbles. The plans show one line that connects both thimbles. I can’t easily see how to do that. So like the Modelkit Stuff build, I’m going to do two separate lines. I was able to do the thimbles and add a bit of seizing. I think it’s going to be easier when the thicker seizing thread I ordered arrives. This 16/0 is tiny and hard to use. It’s hard to see (even with a magnifier), hard to tie, and it moves all over with the slightest breath.
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In part I was delaying the continuation of my Sherbourne because I was waiting for the Modelkit Stuff Sherbourne build to go past me. He’s now well past me in that maybe he has one more video to complete the model. His Video 19 (around time stamp 23:54) describes how to rig a couple of the blocks I hasn’t seen described in other sources.
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