
palmerit
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Everything posted by palmerit
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If I was going to glue something that's painted (or to something that's painted) I'd used CA glue before PVA glue. Don't know if that's recommended and instead you should be sanding before gluing, but I can't imagine gluing with PVA to something that's painted will work well.
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Following @DB789 I airbrushed in black the stern end of the Ranger. The stern timbers have char on them and they are not hardwood but more like particle board so painting them black seems to look a bit nicer. I painted this part before adding the etched deck piece. I did mask off the inside and outside pear wood. Painting them also was necessary because I had to use some filler on them to fix fix some places that frayed after I banged the stern end. I've attached a screen shot of what the stern end looks like without painting (from photos in the instructions). I think I like the black better.
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Finished the 2nd layer of planking. Just needed filler in a few spots. Definitely a better job overall than my Sherbourne. It’ll take several more models before I feel remotely competent. We’ll see how it looks after sanding. It’s taped to protect the engraved pear wood pieces while sanding the hull.
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I definitely do multiple coats. Better to do multiples of diluted paint - especially for this thick MS paint - to get a nice flat pant job. With an airbrush, you have to do many coats. If you see color variation that’s likely because the primer layer is showing through a thick layer of paint. I’ve seen for painting plastic models, especially figures, that having a dark primer underneath show through a top layer of thin paint can be done to create highlights and lowlights. I suppose you could do the same on a model ship, but those highlights and lowlights wouldn’t be on flat stretches of hull.
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I couldn’t have got the mast on my Pram without having Quadhands. I’m sure there’s some way to do it without those, and the instructions describe it, but there was just no was I could do it. I suppose I could have the mast with my mouth or a nostril. I started with the single line going to the front, then did the two lines on the sides.
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I know that yellow is not quite Dory Buff color, it was the closest I had in my paint staff. The green was in the ballpark. I think I saw some photos of some Dorys with some reddish undercoat on the garboard and bottom and just went with it.
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Making progress on the 2nd (pear) planking of the Ranger. This is only my second model with strip wood planking. Not great but way better than the (2nd) pear planking on the Sherbourne - I’ll post a photo of that mess (which turned out fine with lots of filler, sanding, and paint) in the next post. A lesson on practice. I figured out how to use CA glue. I first just glue the front 1/5 or so of the plank to the bow and then slowly glue down the rest. I think when I tried with my Sherbourne I tried doing all the glue at once and that was a complete mess. It wasn’t until reading more build logs that I discovered this approach. One thing I realized late is that I should err on the side of having the stern end of the plank a tiny bit (fraction of a mm) to long so that I can sand it down a tiny bit for a (more) perfect fit. Since this is a painted hull, I can use filler. I’ll need a fraction of what I needed for the Sherbourne.
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I started airbrushing the Dory. I found a couple sources for some colors and after playing around with some colors in my stash I decided on Vallejo Model Air 71.135 Chrome Yellow for the inside and most of the outside, Game Air 76.123 Angel Green for the gunwale, and I’m doing the garboard and bottom in Model Air 71.271 German Red Brown. I don’t know if it’s a combination of airbrushing and the model being basswood but it’s been hard to paint over pencil marks I had made. With my Sherbourne (offwhite Vallejo Air on pear wood) I didn’t have trouble covering the pencil marks I made). I ended up painting with a brush to get a thicker covering over the pencil marks and I will do more airbrush coats. https://goodmorninggloucester.com/2009/03/22/dory-buff-dory-paint/
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After a couple months, my Pavel Nikitin "Oseberg" (v3) Viking Ship kit (with the paint kit for the model) arrived from Ukraine. My wife asked "what the heck did you buy" when seeing all the cellophane wrapping around the box and Cyrillic writing on the shipping labels. After I opened it, she said "oh cool". It was packed really well. And heavy. I think the packing slip says over 7kg. I'm not going to get to this for a while. So I'll park this build log under "In the Queue" for now. Can't wait.
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Definitely useful to read ahead on a number of build logs - and flagging the most detailed ones for future reference. Note that sometimes people will add a "I wish I would have ..." or "I realized I made a mistake earlier ..." noting something that they should have done or done differently many many posts (and build steps) after the step you are on in a model. Good to read through a bunch and take notes (or give yourself reminders to check out someone's log once you get to a particular step). There were times I thought I was following the instructions (and often the instructions aren't all that clear) and then realize that I didn't quite get a part positioned right because some later step (many pages later) doesn't fit quite right. If only I (and the instructions) had told me to test fit this later part, I might have added that earlier part in a different place (or faired the hull in a different way or whatever it is). Then again, you can always just plug ahead and learn from your mistakes. That's actually more of what I do since I often don't have enough time to read the details of every build log. The nice thing about wooden model ships is that there is rarely ever a mistake you can't correct with some more wood or wood filler (especially when painting) or by removing a piece (with an application of alcohol for PVA glue or acetone for CA glue).
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For those who don't know the differences (like I wouldn't have a year ago): This NRG Half Hull model doesn't use bent planks. It doesn't use planks. You create your own planks, each of which has a custom shape you determine: You cut out the pieces to shape (usually by first tracing a template from something like a manilla envelope - at least that's what I used) from a large blank sheet of basswood, so the pieces are shaped to the right edge bend by virtue of cutting them to that (often curved) shape. The Dory, Pram and Smack from Model Shipways (and the Dory from Midwest) had laser cut planks that had their "edge bends" in the shape of the pieces (so the only bend is in the direction the wood wants to bend) - unlike the Vanguard models I'm working on, the Sherbourne and Ranger, which have narrow strips of planking all the same width that need to be (sometimes) edge bent in that way. The Half Hull is more like the Dory, Pram, and Smack in this regard than the others (and most models) where you do need to edge bend planks. What's especially useful - at least it was to me - about the Half Hull project is that you get a better sense of why you even do "edge bending". You're trying to get via edge bending what you would get if you created a template (from a manilla folder). What looks at first blush like a straight plank actually becomes a curved plank because of the 3D geometry when you have curves in multiple dimensions. When you cut the pieces out from the template, they're curved. When dealing with straight strips you need to achieve that curve by edge bending. I know I'm not saying anything here that lots of people know about already (and I probably don't have the language quite right) - it's if someone new(ish) finds this to help them better understand some of the differences (I've discovered over the past year) between different kinds of models.
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Parts an parts # building the norske love 1:75
palmerit replied to joebgame's topic in Wood ship model kits
No experience with that kit, but I’m working on a Midwest kit (from Model Expo / Model Shipways) and it had a bunch of mismatches between instructions and sheets. I later found in the box a supplemental sheet with an updated map to how the parts were laid out on the sheets. -
Thwarts (seats) dry fitted. They’ll be glued in place later, after painting the interior. Not sure if I’ll paint or stain the thwarts or just seal them.
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