Piet

It’s been quite a while since I updated this log, so I thought I’d show you what has kept me out of the model shipyard for all of this time…
 
It all started with a desire to sort out the storage arrangements in the “dirty” workshop – ie the garage, which has to do double duty as both workshop and home for two cars. Then a visit to the Timber and Working with Wood Show resulted in funding approval for a new table saw to assist with the modifications while retaining all 10 digits.  Because of the need to retain the primary function of the garage (ie housing for cars), all cabinetry was made mobile so that the workshop could be configured “as required” for whatever the task at hand demanded.
 
The first cab off the rank was storage for my ever-growing collection of “hobby” machinery. For this I made a 1.5m long cabinet that would house the Sherline Mill and Lathe on top. The design was from Brad Rodriguez at Fix-This-Build-That. Taking pictures now is a little awkward, but here is the overall cabinet with the Sherline Machines under their dust covers on top.
 

 
 
In use, they can be either kept in place, or moved to another work surface:
 

 
Inside the cabinet are two doors concealing two full-extension pull-out trays that house yet more machinery, and four drawers for all of the lathe and mill accessories, air-brush equipment, etc.
 

 
 
The next thing I decided to make was an assembly table that would double as an outfeed table for the table saw. For this, I combined the plans/ideas from three different woodworkers. The top is a torsion box design by Ron Paulk in the USA. The frame is a design by Paul Sellers (UK), which is knock down design, and I added to that by putting 3” castors on the legs. Then I used an idea from Dave Stanton (Australia) to make the top similar to the Festool MFT table (only larger).
 

 
The top is made from ¾” plywood. It’s about 1.5m long by about 900m wide. The cut-outs around the side panels serve to both reduce weight and provide handy temporary storage for tools as you go. The dog holes are laid out using the UJK Parf Guide system, which guarantees alignment and spacing. I also added T-Track around 3 edges. The top is sturdy, and although it is fairly heavy, I can lift it on and off the frame by myself with relative ease.
 
Here is a view of the table top removed for storage. You can see the basic construction of the frame, and the locating slots for seating the table top securely. The aprons of the table are held together by half-lap joints and held securely by crucifix joints in the tops of the legs. Two stretcher/bearers are housed in dovetail joints to complete the frame.
 

 
Here is a close-up of the crucifix joint on one leg during disassembly.
 

 
Once completely disassembled, all of the frame components sit neatly on the extension wing of the table saw. The whole thing goes together in about one minute flat. Same for disassembly.
 

 
 
Next up were a mobile timber storage cart and some mobile bases for both Drill Press and Spindle Sander. While I was at it, I made a table for the Drill Press. It’s a bit hard to tell in this photo, but yes, that is a timber storage cart full of, well, timber…..
 

 
The Drill Press cabinet and the Spindle Sander cabinet are essentially identical, except that one has four drawers ,while the other has one drawer and a cupboard. The designs were based on more from Brad Rodriguez at Fix-This-Build-That.
 

 
Next up, I really wanted some storage for finishes and other “stuff”. I based this on a design from Jay Bates. After I made it, I realised I needed a second one…..
 

 
Also in the above photo you can see my large clamp rack (another Brad Rodriguez design) and a small storage rack for my Random Orbital Sander and various sand papers to go with it (also designed by Brad Rodriguez). All of the wall-mounted cabinets are mounted using a French Cleat system. This makes it really easy to move things around if you change your mind about placement of items as the cabinets are not fixed to the wall.
 
More in the next post…..
 
 

Lattice is completed. Oak veneer cut to form will be used to cover the cap. Then a 2mm layer of tile glue and then gray paint. 
Marcus 

Well that's the advantage of being the cook too ... although ... that does have it's downsides as well ...

kitchen table?.......gee,  if I even spread a rigging diagram on the kitchen table,  the admiral squawks.  I just look at her........."my two tables are precious, you know!"      

Thanks Dennis, took some time for I had to make some space on the table

looks like you've done a lot since you last posted progress.........looks really good.   glad to see your back at the table  

Very nice progress OC.
 
Cheers,

I still am mate, I even switched to optivisor mode!!
 
Thanks Pat, much appreciated!

Great to see you back at it Carl, looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

And you can keep searching for that number that does not exist on the fret....

Thanks Greg, still a ways to go ... the PE stash doesn't seem to shrink ... I keep on bending and sticking parts together ... this ship will sink just by the quantity of brass stuck to it!

Aaaaaaaand you’re back! That’s a lot of work done, the PE looks sharp mate, well done 

Thanks OC, 'tis about time I am!

Great to see you back at work on her.
 
OC.

How quickly time passes ... even if you're not having fun!
 
Finally I got some time at the "bench". Had some restorative work on the hull, finished the decks, front and rear, as far as possible to be painted. Masked the decks, partly with tape, partly with an extra wooden deck I won't be using. Dragged the monster to my spray booth for priming. Hope to do some shading this week, but that depends on the boss, and the additional freelance work I got presently.
Please, don't mind the very poor quality of the images. I'll try to get some better quality shots tomorrow if the weather cooperates ...
 

 
Decks have not yet been glued down. First shading on the bit of super structure fixed to the deck, then the hull. Haven't decided yet if I'll get the colour (grey ... very colourful) on first before I mount the decks to the hull or after. The main problem will be putting on the wooden deck if everything is attached. So some minor headaches before I'll be ready with that ...

thanks Piet     I took tomorrow off........the deck is really giving a hard decision.   if I do plank it,  even at .5 mm,  it will take away from the height of the bulwark.
   I'll ponder it tomorrow......after I cut the grass.  happy to see the snow gone ......but the other headache begins.   can't a modeler get a break?     

are they Britannia metal ?  kit supplied?

Eveniing all,   more work on the rudder today -firstly I had to cut out (well flat box file) the three cut outs to house the hinge linkages, this was a system of several dry fittings and more filling, then I concentrated on the metal hinges that needed some light cleaning up, then It was a case of applying a light run of ca glue and placed the hinges into place,   this was repeated three times,   afterwards any overspill of ca glue was sanded off.
 
Here are a few pics -
 
OC.

Thank you pat.
 
OC.

Some good progress OC; coming along very nicely.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I even got the time to build the keel  - made up from three pieces of 4 x 4mm, I glued these together then shaped  the profiles  - next will be to attach the hinges.
 
Just the one pic so far.
 
OC.

Thank you so much.
 
OC.

Beautiful progress you have done. Very clean work!

More work today continuing with the forecastle bulwark extentions,   I sanded the first one to give it a curved profile then a couple of coats of black,   pictures show the before and after including the other side prior to shaping.
Also a general shot with my first cannon just chilling on the deck before I fix it in place.
 
OC.

Nice work OC. About your hardware dilemma - get some thin brass wire and make your own.
 
Cheers,