Force9

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail
 
Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 
 
Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.
 
We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.


Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:



Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.



 
Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail
 
Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 
 
Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.
 
We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.


Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:



Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.



 
Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.
 
Cheers,
Evan

My initial intent with work around the Stern Frame was addressing the kit's lack of the curved lines the plating has in this area, as indicated in this photograph (image obtained from the Library of Congress).

But upon beginning this and looking into this further, a few other things came up.
 
First of was the zinc anode sheathing on the Rudder Post. I figured dealing with this was within my skill level.
 
I simply used masking tape and pencil shading to get a measure of the distance around , and also measured the height required (26mm) before removing the tape.

  
And then transferred that to .005” styrene sheeting.

 
Part of the process of cementing this “zinc” anode in place. It took a few clamping/cementing sessions.

 
Then on to my original intent….
First off, I scanned a certain diagram (of the Stern Frame) from a certain publication and then printed it more than once, reducing it each time and matching it to the kit until I got what I thought was the right scale. The original scan reduced to 65% seemed right to me.
With some more pencil shading, I got this….

I’m not showing the printed side so as to avoid any copyright infringement.
 
Transferred to .005” styrene sheeting.

 

 
I applied these pieces primarily with E6000+ glue. After 24 hours I used a rubber band to pull in the edges that didn’t lay flat and finished the job with CA glue.

 

 
Port Side:

 
Starboard side:

 
1). “Zinc” anode strip also added here, as per research.
2). Note modifications to Plate #1 of the aftermarket under hull plating kit. Trimmed
     longitudinally to bring it in line with the kits plate line immediately above, and
     curvature added as per research.
3). The stern tube for the center prop is just wrong. Still mulling over what to do with this, if
      anything. Might just leave it as is. It appears to me, upon comparing the mold
      to historical photographs, that it’s not just the lack of the tapered sheath
      plating here that is an issue, but I think the diameter of the stern tube itself is
      too narrow. Next step with this will be deciding which propellor I want to go
      with and see if the propellor boss diameter matches the stern tube. If the boss is by
      chance larger, then I’ll look at ways to build up the diameter of the stern
      tube and continue the modification forward, for the raised plating. Not holding my breath on this one. 
4). I have an aftermarket kit that has PE for these locations.
 
And back to the under hull plating one more time…..I came across a build log in a different Forum that made mention of Plates 200 and 202, of the same aftermarket kit that I used, with regard to how these plates just abruptly end and look unfinished. I agree. Therefore, I added .010” x .020” styrene strips to the forward edge of these plates.
 
Port:

 
Starboard:

 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Mark

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Love the dedication to this, can see this build is going to be running for a while 😂 brilliant.

Ahoy Mark -
 
Looks like some terrific adjustments to bring everything into alignment.  A tricky business with the overlaps needed for each plate.
 
Great to see the progress.
 
Cheers
Evan

Ahoy Mark -
 
Looks like some terrific adjustments to bring everything into alignment.  A tricky business with the overlaps needed for each plate.
 
Great to see the progress.
 
Cheers
Evan

Foremost plates of Sheet 5, both sides, redone.
 
Port side.

 
Starboard side.

 
More misalignments…..
 
Plate #1, Starboard…..

 
….and redone.

 
I must say the following two “misalignments” (for lack of a better word in this case), in the vicinity of Frame 90F, are not the modeler, but rather, the aftermarket kit. The pictures clearly show Plate #202, on each side, are not wide enough. They come pre-cut. They should be wide enough.
 
Port Side.


 
Starboard side.


 
Next up, I’ll be installing the Keel Bar. I will not be using the supplied aftermarket keel strips for two reasons.
1.   Four of the seven strips provided are distorted.
2.   They are not to scale. (Perhaps a moot point, but given reason #1, might as well model the Keel Bar to scale).
 
Titanic had a Keel Bar (flat bar strip for protecting the keel) that measured 19½” wide x 3” thick. At 1/200 scale this is 2.48mm wide x 0.38mm thick. The kit provided strips are 2.0mm wide (1.5mm at some points due to the distortion) x 0.20mm thick. I’ll be using 2.5mm x 0.38mm styrene strips for the Keel Bar.

 
Just a few things left to do after that.
 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Mark

Another part achieved was the hull detailing forward below waterline, looked like lots of simulated holes on hull in a horseshoe shape possibly a scuttling point l thought, drilled these through the hull just to define them a little better, they weren’t hundred percent like drawing in the book but l didn’t fancy try to replicate this, thought l was doing fine just drilling it out, first mistake 🙄 whilst fitting jig for boom ladders at Stern discovered there was a jig for this, Pontos went to the bother of correcting and making this but not to telling you in their instructions about it 😳 Am looking at all those holes in side of my boat that ain’t right 🤪 out with plastic rod and plugged them all. Discovered they were in wrong position anyway, so altered it all to suit drawing, same scale as well so just measured it  like for like, little bit doctoring then more drilling. Turns out these are for sonar microphones, nothing to do with scuttling point, a well learning all the time 👍

Hello Jeff.
I'm particularly looking forward to your construction report on this famous battleship, since I've already built her.
I'm curious how you will implement this model. Knowing your Mikasa, fantastic. The ingredients are very similar to mine. Pontos, CMK and the excellent book by Draminski. This will serve you well. Maybe take a look at the company Veteran Models, they have a few fantastic details for DKM ships in their program.
 

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Rudder Continued…
 
Let’s make a scratch-built rudder for the Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic.
 
I started with a sheet of .030 thick styrene.  This is not so thin that it’ll warp, and not too far off from scale.  It is also easily cut with common paper scissors.
 
Step 1
I traced the general outline on the sheet using my previously modified Trumpeter rudder as a template.  This provides a good shape while allowing exact alignment of the pintles to fit the kit.

Step 2
 
I cut out the gaps between the pintle positions and did some initial test fitting:

Step 3

The rudder outline was snipped using scissors to get a rough outline that was refined with a hobby knife and smoothed using a coarse flex file.
 
Step 4
Before adding the bolt flanges, I cemented some half round strip to the pintles to give them a cylindrical shape…
 

I used .080 No. 242 half round Evergreen that was filed a bit thinner to better match the scale before cementing.  I affixed a single length and used a chunk of styrene to press against the rudder edge for tight alignment of the half round strip.  After a few minutes I came back and snipped between the pintles to remove the excess.  Worked one side at a time.  These will later get filed flush on the ends as I fitted them to the kit.
 
Step 5
Now to attend to the bolt flanges.

I needed to find a method that would produce consistent wedge shapes for all the needed elements.  I determined that strips of .020 x.060 could be stacked in the approximate shape and glued side by side to some scrap sheet (only glued down at the ends) to allow me to file them all at the same angle to shape the flanges.

I needed ten for the job, but I made them in two batches of 7 each to get some extras just in case.  The thick chunk of styrene in the picture was used to press against each stack during gluing to make sure everything stayed aligned.
 
Step 6

Once dry, I came back and filed the wedges at a consistent angle and then cut them free from the sheet.  They didn’t need to have a perfectly smooth slope – just enough to represent the wedges.
 
I carefully separated them with the hobby knife blade:

Step 7
Next, I flipped over each of the newly made wedges so that the factory smooth side was on top and cemented them to the rudder with plenty of overhang:

These were carefully positioned in relation to the pintles according to the historic photo references.  Note that the last flange is set slightly BELOW the last pintle.  The overhangs were trimmed to fit and the whole process repeated for the other side.
 
Additionally, small styrene rod was used for the bolt heads on the pintles.

Step 8
I added the zinc anodes based on what appears in most of the historic photos. These were .010 x.030 strips that were pricked with a push pin to represent the small bolts and flipped over and cemented in place.
 
As @Tsm209 noted in an earlier post, there are discrepancies in how some folks think the rudder anodes should be represented.  Robert Read shows a “double-wide” version rather than what is seen in most historic Titanic photos.  It may be that Mr. Read has access to other photos and/or documentation that he used to source his drawings.
 
The talented digital artist Vasilije Ristovic’ also shows this type of rudder anode in his stunning 3D illustration:

(Image from Mr. Ristovic’s terrific Facebook page )
 
I chose to stick with what I could see on the historic Titanic rudder photos that are most referenced in online searches.
 
Step 9
I added the rudder stock to the top of the rudder using Evergreen .080 rod (No. 212).  The stock was made long enough to easily extend into the hull.

Step 10
Adding the details

The Titanic had stops mounted on two of the pintles to limit the maximum rudder angle to 40 degrees on hard turns.  Small snips of .020 x .040 styrene were added for these.  There is also a small piece of .010 x.020 strip on the outer edge for a future hasp (?) ring that mounts here.  I’ll add that just before priming/painting since it’ll be fragile.

Also included are the small stops mounted on the kit where the rudder pintles would meet the hull.  I should also note that the small hole under the counter was drilled wider to accommodate the new rudder stock diameter.
 
Some sample views from aft to show the overall effect:


Not quite up to the level of a 3D printed version, but it was fun to build and likely cost me less than $5 US in materials that I already (mostly) had on hand.  (I did need to purchase the half round and smaller rod for the pintle detail.)
 
Thanks again to those who’ve been following along.
 
Bow Hawse up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Hello @md1400cs - Thanks for your continued interest!  
 
I think that plastic kits have advantages for certain ships - particularly large scale representations like the Trumpeter Titanic.  However, they do generally have the associated disadvantage of the injection molding process - some contours just don't come out right.  
 
The level of detail that photo etch and 3d resin provides is next level - but has also bled over into high end wood kits as you well know.  I remember a note from Chris Watton on my Revell Constitution calling out the excellent detail that can be added with styrene scratch building.  All done in the interest of improving the interest and accuracy of our models!
 
And yes - I'll likely add a 3rd party wooden deck.  I have both the KA and Scaledecks at hand to choose from.
 
Thanks also to everyone for the LIKES.  Much appreciated.
 
Check back this weekend for new updates - thinning out the Well Deck bulwarks.
 
Cheers,
Evan