Force9

@MisterMeester Love seeing the progress... And I appreciate the observation that improving the kit accuracy is likely to be a never ending quest.  I do, however, like the choices you're making in the near term.  
 
(and I see that you've figured out the Mini-Brass TEMPLATE provided for the placement of the discharge openings.  Interesting how many modelers think that is an additional part to be placed somewhere on the model!)
 
Fun stuff
 
Cheers
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

@MisterMeester Love seeing the progress... And I appreciate the observation that improving the kit accuracy is likely to be a never ending quest.  I do, however, like the choices you're making in the near term.  
 
(and I see that you've figured out the Mini-Brass TEMPLATE provided for the placement of the discharge openings.  Interesting how many modelers think that is an additional part to be placed somewhere on the model!)
 
Fun stuff
 
Cheers
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

First ever experience with PE went well. Very pleased with the results.
 
Started with the Condenser Discharge Ports. I did the Starboard side first....

 

 

 

 
And the Port side. For this side I decided to give the provided template a try. I think it helped a bit, but not essential.

 

 

 

 

 
Looking forward to working with the rest of the PE and getting on the hull.
 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Mark  

Trumpeter should definitely hire you to improve their models.... 😄
 
Amazing work.
 
Yves

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail
 
Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 
 
Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.
 
We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.


Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:



Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.



 
Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail
 
Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 
 
Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.
 
We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.


Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:



Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.



 
Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Hello Everyone...
 
The summer heat has abated and I have been able to get back into the garage workshop and work comfortably... I've been busy.
Let me start catching folks up on my project...
 
1st Class Lobby Entry Doors
 
To add more “depth” to the model, I’ll be cutting open various doors and hatches to reveal some of the ship's interior.
 
The first-class entry lobbies are a good place to start.  Initially I just opened the doorways on the kit:

But this exposed the thick plastic sides… Probably not a big deal for some of the other doorways I’ll open, but these doors have some ornate gates that I’d like to add, and I want to thin things out a bit… So, some surgery is needed.
 
I used a drill to remove the area around the doors (but NOT the top or bottom edges) and filed the edges smooth.

Then I carefully matched the dimensions using thin Styrene (.015”) to fill the opening and size the door openings.

Everything is supported from behind with some small angle strips:

Next, I used a 1.0mm Riveting wheel to replicate the rivet pattern onto the back of .005” styrene sheet and trimmed to match. 
 

Flipped it over and aligned the edges to match the kit then glued the .005” on to the underlying .015” elements.
 
The edges weren’t perfect, so some Tamiya putty was smeared into the gaps and filed smooth.


Here’s where it stands now:

Likely needs some fine tuning after a coat of primer.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Apologies to everyone for the long delay… I spent some time across the past few months working on my US Frigate Constitution model along with a bunch of travel (including to the other coast for my daughter’s college graduation) that kept my Titanic on ice (so to speak).
 
Let me catch you up.
 
Propeller Wings Continued…
 
There was still some styrene to add to the propeller wing surfaces.  The top and bottom wings are now completely covered and additional styrene was bent and glued around the prop shaft/boss outer surface. 
 

 
 

 

 
Added some thin strips to represent the plate overlaps in the same manner as the underbody hull plating… 
 

 
Used Tamiya tape to make a template to help guide similar placement on the starboard wing to make sure it all looks equal from the stern.
I won’t be utilizing the kit provided propellers, but why not slide them on to get a quick perspective with everything in place?

 
Next up I’ll highlight my initial effort to thin out the sides of the hull around the open first-class lobby entry doors to better match the scale.
 
Cheers,
Evan
 

Propeller Wings
 
The propeller wings on the Olympic class liners were graceful appendages that blended smoothly into the hull plating while supporting the massive prop shafts and propellers.  

The Trumpeter kit representations…not so graceful.  This is one of those Trumpeter adaptations that don’t match well with the actual ship.  The kit wings meet the kit hull abruptly and look a bit out of place.  In fact, the Trumpeter kit has these placed a bit too low and they don’t align well to the nearby hull strakes – which are also out of alignment with what was in place on the Titanic.
 
The detail on these pieces is subpar… The plating is wrong and a little overscale.
 
There seem to be some 3D printed versions available online, but I think this is another case where these versions are too accurate – they’ll look out of place on the model.
 
I’ll reach back into my bin of styrene sheets and strips and try to make the best of what the kit provides.  I won’t try to correct the hull strakes and the prop wing placement, but I can add better detail and get things to blend more seamlessly.
 
First, I’ll remove all the surface detail from the pieces:



I cemented the pieces together and added half round strips to the ends:

After attaching the wings to the kit, I was worried that there wasn’t enough surface contact where they meet the hull. I’ve reinforced them by adding thin half round strips into the crease where they meet the hull.  The curved side faces into the kit to maximize the surface contact:


 
Next, another larger half round strip was added above the first to fill in the gap and provide an angled surface for the styrene strips that will blend into the hull strakes.
 
I laid the first strip on the upper surface to serve as the baseline for the other elements. This was a .010 x .156 strip that was liberally doused with cement and pressed flat.  The top edge was trimmed to match the adjoining hull strake.

The remaining elements were fashioned from .005” Styrene sheet that I ordered directly from Evergreen… Hard to find these thin sheets at local hobby stores or model train shops.

The next “plate” was traced using Tamiya Tape to make a template for a tight fit:

…then transferred to the .005 sheet.

 
 


The remaining plates were added using the same process.

For the underside, strips of .010 x .156 were used. The ends were all trimmed to align with the bottom edge of the nearest hull strake.


Any gaps or blemishes were filled with Tamiya modeling putty and sanded smooth after drying overnight:


Some sample views:

 
 
 

 

Still a bit more work to do… Including the starboard side wing.
 
I’ll define the individual plates and add final details on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Center Keel
 
Time to lay the keel down… Obviously this is where the actual ship began construction, but I’m only now getting to this critical element on my build.
 
I laid the keel down in manageable sections using .030 x .080 Styrene strips.  Not sure this would be exact to scale, but it closely lines up to the width shown on my 1/200 scale print of the hull bottom.

The critical thing is to keep it straight all the way down the length of the underbody.  I taped a straight edge against the styrene and began cementing down the aligned strip in two-inch increments – moving the straight edge along as I worked my way from bow to stern.  I also had a small piece of scrap styrene that perfectly fit into the needed gap between the keel and the inner edge of the hull plating that I test fitted as I glued each strip.
 
The forward most keel section was tapered to meet the kit keel at the bow.  

The stern section was angled down toward the sternpost and filed to blend.


It really takes some effort to make sure that the keel stays straight and true all the way across the length of the hull.


Butt Straps
 
Generally, the hull plates were overlapped and riveted together across the length of the hull.  There was, however, a section of strakes lower down in the hull that had the butt ends set flush together without the overlap.  These plates were held together with “butt straps” – small plates riveted to the ends of the abutting hull plates.
 
See my orange highlights in Bob Read’s hull plan:

(Note that the port side butt straps are indicated with dotted outlines in Bob’s drawing and are offset port vs starboard.)
 
The Trumpeter kit seems to include faint outlines of these straps in the approximately correct location forward of the bilge keels. No indication, however, on the strakes aft of the bilge keels.  
 
Bob’s drawing shows five of these forward and four aft.  In a perfect world these butt straps would all line up against a single strake across the length of the kit underbody. This would include the tops of the butt straps that peek out above (and below) the bilge keels.  Unfortunately, the compromises made by Trumpeter in molding the hull have made it tough to add these butt straps with all the top edges aligned against one hull strake.
 
I’ll need to fudge things a bit to get these represented on my model. I’ll go ahead and use the kit outlined versions forward of the bilge keels for positioning my straps.  Aft of the keel I’ll align them against the existing kit hull strakes - marked first with a pencil.  

Thin .010 x .156 strips of styrene will be used for these butt straps:

These will all sit in line with the “in” strakes of the molded hull.  I inserted small snips of styrene to fill the gap to create a flush surface before overlaying the butt straps:

The corners of the styrene were first rounded and then cemented in place.

Once put in place, I came back along and sanded down the straps to reduce the dimension – didn’t want these to stand out too proud against the hull. Tape protected the hull while I used an Emory board.

Sample views:

 
 

I’ve decided to hold off on adding the bilge keels for now.  There is much abuse left to deliver on the hull and I think these keels will be fragile and vulnerable as I flip the hull on its side and upside down to make more modifications.  I can be patient and add these (along with more butt straps) at a later stage.
 
Miscellaneous Detail
 
I’ve also been tending to some of the smaller details along the hull.  
 
The historic photos show a small crease near the hull stern plates:

I grabbed the hobby knife and a micro chisel and went to work.

Thanks again for the interest everyone has shown (and the patience between updates).
 
Pondering next steps – probably the propeller wings.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan