michael101

Thank you Berto

UPDATE : after thinking a lot about the block fillers i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece ) that is the best way i have found , the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card... that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!! and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ... in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template .. i now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before ) and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list : after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!! befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle".... i was thinking a lot what to do... and thank God at the end i got the idea : you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this : than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get straight line !) than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...) after all this is the result for the first sanding : now the next stag: block fillers for the second bulkhead: i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes : after cutting and sanding the second block fillers : i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!! after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler .. now after all we can start fairing the bow section ! but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape here is the final result :

Thank you E.J

Thank you Scott

Thank you all !!! i have installed the block fillers and now working on the fairing of the bow section , hop to update picture tomorrow... Best regards , Michael.

Thank you that is very good idia to taper planks with that machine i will check it when i will get to that stage

Just love your work! please keep update your build log with any step that you doing Best regards , Michael.

Hello friends i bought the proxxon belt sander and very happy with the tool i will be more that happy to here from you for what are you using the tool beside fairing the hull and tapering planks.. also if there is some tips and tricks please write me on this post Best regards Michael.

after searching in that web i didnt fined the tool that i want.. any way i bougt the tool in my country the belt sander little review : perfet tool for our hobby ! from fairing the hull until sanding a little parts on the ship ! best regards , michael.

THANK YOU ALL !!!!!!!

Hello friends , i bought a lot from sat berlin any tools of proxxon but now its look like they dont sell proxxon anymore ... someone know where is the best and cheap place to buy proxxon tools over Europa ? im looking for Delta sander OZI/E or Belt sander BS/E not sure what to choose .. i think the delta is better because you can cut with that machine also they have 14mm and 8mm blades/saw and for our hobby its will do very good job ..

Thank you Backer

Beautiful work Pete !!! Now im working on a new system for making block filler very easy i hop and it will work well and if so .. i will publish a little guide in my victory build log about the wood im using the is : pine wood, i took the advice from my best friend Matti Pilola he also a member in that forum (one of the best builders ) and like i wrote God willing and it will work then i will publish the guide Best regards , Michael.

Thank you Ian , so the best way is to make the block fillers first without touching the bulkheads by fairing.. than to install the block and after all to start fairing ... is the same as i thought Hellk Backer , yes the question is about the block fillers , but from your pictures i cant see if you fair the bulkheads before or after installing the blocks fillers

Hello friends I'm going to make the bow fillers in the bow and also on the second bulkhead but what is the order of the block fillers : firs to make the filers and than to fair the bulkheads or to fair the bulkhead and than to make the block filler? i was thinking the best way is to make the bow fillers firs for getting a symmetrical line in both sides of the keel ... but it will be better to hear that from someone how is did it before best regards Michael.

now I'm about starting the shape of the ship i mean the fairing progress , i want to do that before installing the patterns of the gun ports for not getting any damage on the patterns ... i have ask before about the shape of the bow forward supports (40 – 42) and after fairing... i got it straight with the bulkheads 1 and 2 now the only problem is the level between bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 i mean the bulkhead no.2 is a bit up ... i saw in all of the victory build logs the same level ! but I'm not sure if i need to put some plank on that bulkhead no.2 or to sand bulkhead no.3 for getting nice and smooth curve down the bow here is the picture :

A little update The building going a bit slowly because I'm working on the Ship Skeleton... I come back late in the evening and do not have much power to work on the construction of the ship also the table saw making a lot of noise at the evening lol most of my time build right now is in Friday that i have all a day free to build here is some pictures of my progress , i installed blocks between the bulkheads also behind the barrel strip i glue some wood (1mm thick ) to push the strip outside in the slots ...

Thank you David ! In that picture there is the same level.. its mean that the keelson line is not the border line of the plank ? I mean when i will install the plank i will still see the whait aria okf the keel in the corner of the bow ...

Hello friends tomorrow i wont to work on the bow stage but i saw the the line of the second bulkhead that is going up of the keelson line also something looks a bit weird with the line of the bow forward supports (40 – 42) here is a picture that i took ( dry fit ) please advice btw the second bulkhead are good fit ! The middle gun deck is 45mm from the bottom as the plans ! best regards , Michael.

Thank you David

Thank you David for the comment i asked you on the p.m about the dummy barrel strip (that has a 5mm thick ) how did you bend them ? I was thinking of putting them in water but not sure if its a good idea because they will be fatter after that proses .. and I'm not sure if they will go in the bulkheads holes nicely and smooth ... so what did you do?

Hello Reach good to see you in my build log thank you for your comment and yes i will do that 4 plank shift on the lower deck , My observation about our hobby its to take the time and to work slowly and do my best on any stage , to be honest if i wanted to have that ship at home i could fined it on eBay ready to put it in the show box but for me to have that ship in the show box its only a bonus and for sure you agree with me, my proof is your build log and you doing a best job !

Hello friends i asked before in other post about the middle gun deck plank .. and i got some answers , but i just find in the constructions manuals the exact length and the distance between the beginning of plank one to the beginning of plank 2 I'm talking about four butt shift system my question is if the middle gun deck has the same length ..? here is the text from the manual about the upper gun deck : Note: If you wish to accurately represent the plank length and four butt shift system used on Victory, each plank should be either cut to a length of 85mm (approximately 20ft) or the planks can be laid full length and scored with a craft knife every 85mm, this latter method often looks the most convincing at this scale. The four butt shift system simply implies that the end of each neighbouring plank is offset by 1/5 of twice the length of the planks (34mm) such that the end of every fifth plank athwartships only is aligned (i.e. separated by a four plank shift).

a little update today i glued the bulkheads in positions i had to fix bulkhead no. 13 , and to put all of the bulkhead in position my advice : never trust the laser cut !!! check in the plans what is the highest of the water line or in our case the middle gun deck.. and hold the keel in 90 degrees to some board , and start measuring every bulkhead than double check all the walls/decks act. For more accuracy i cut 2 pieces of 11 mm (the same size as the keelson that installed in the front ) and i have put on that to pieces of plywood and did the same thing in the bow i have put 2 pieces of plywood but without the extra pieces of the 11mm becouse there is a keelson , than i had enough space to put the 90 degrees ruler to check the bulkheads and because of that model its huge, i had to put all the bulkheads in the right place then i glue them from out side by timbers the deck is in , but without glue (not had time to glue that today ) my next stage before putting the patterns of the gun ports its to make it ready for fairing the hull proses by putting columns between the bulkheads i think to use 17mm plywood (that what i have in stock lol) but becoase the bulkheads are very big i will make the wide of the columns 5cm wide by 17mm and to glue them in a diagonal position .. but will see Cheers Michael.

beautiful work !!!!