Rudolf

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 137 – Bilge Pumps 1
 
You may recall from an early post that suction pipes were installed from the limber channel at the garboard strake up to the main deck just aft of the main mast.  There, the two pipes were terminated at an iron plate on the deck.  Unlike earlier chain pumps that could only pick up water from above the floor frames, reciprocating suction pumps that came into use in the md 19th century could lower their intakes to the underside of the floor frames. This was discussed in earlier posts.  The first step in constructing the pumps was to make the two cast iron casings.  The completed casings are shown mounted in the first picture.
 

 
Casings typical of the times – these being only typical of the type and not based on a specific specification – usually consisted of a cylinder to house the piston and a second chamber or reservoir to collect the water and discharge it from the pump.  The integral assembly was cast iron.  There were two options that I considered for making these.  They could be machined from a block or they could be fabricated.  I chose the latter approach, using telescoping brass tubes.  The first fabrication step is shown below.
 

 
The main cylinder consists of a brass tube and the secondary reservoir is made from a similar tube that has had a portion sliced off on the circular saw.  In the picture the two pieces are shown ready to be soldered together.  The next picture shows steps after soldering the two tubes shown above.
 

 
The soldered pieces were first cut to final height.  Rectangular shapes were then soldered top and bottom.  The assembly on the right, shown upside down, has had its flanged discharge pipe installed the top rectangle shaped and drilled as shown to be open at the top.  The next picture shows the first soldering step with the cylinder assembly held in place on the top plate for soldering.
 

 
The device and surface shown in this picture is a new tool acquisition that I will discuss in a later post.  After the top plate was soldered on, the two top holes were drilled as shown in the next picture.
 

 
After drilling through from the bottom and soldering on the bottom plate, that plate was then drilled to fit a spigot that would fit into the suction pipes at deck level.
 

 
In the above picture the top figure eight flange has been roughly shaped.  The two finished casings are shown in the next picture prior to final pickling and blackening.
 

 
Also shown in this picture is the piston/crankshaft assembly.  A supporting iron standard with a mounted bearing is shown at the center of the shaft.  Work on this assembly will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Hello I've been here for a long time did not appear. I decided to show you one of my work. This figure of an angel on the French Le Ambitieux. I love the model of this ship, which makes an Italian master. It was in his review and saw this figure of the angel. It wanted to try to do it yourself. And that's what happened. I did it for fun, it's not an order.







 
 
This photos from the competition, they were held in May in St. Petersburg. I went there to participate with their works.

As promised a sequel to the last few threads. This openwork inset





 
Here was the difficulty. Part thickness only 2.8 mm, and the thread must be on both sides. Therefore, in areas of thinning turned very small thickness. And item several times I broke during operation.   I had to find a way out of the problem. Did so: the item consists of two halves. They became even thinner, but now they can be glued drops of glue on the bar and do as a bas-relief carving. And then glue it all together. Easy! Maybe someone is handy.  

more:



 

Good afternoon, everybody. 
I finished another small order. This is the most difficult job, that I had. But very interesting. I very much enjoyed the thread. 
This figure rooster for the French frigate «Le Francois». 
That's how this figure looks in the drawings. 

And here is what I got







 

covered with oil:


 
after drying oil tinting:




 
Everything. And so it did:


 
Sincerely, Alexander
 
 
 
 
 
 

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

Thank you all, this is lionfish poetry
 
I found some "how -to´s" concerning two important topics "guns" and "boats".
 

 
Most of the guns for model ships are either purchased or made, using a machine and brass tubes.
 
(please don´t care for the nickel silver tank tracks,  Merkava3D ) More important is the use of master patterns for the various types of gun barrels. In this case the 12pounder long gun....
 
and the 24pounder caronade. This masters are made from simple epoxy putty, intended for car repairs.
 
I choosed a very low temperature bismuth tin alloy to cast the guns (you can use normal silicone for the moulds) and didn´t mind to use resin parts for the wheels of the carriages.

The colour of the barrel is an experiment, in the end I prefered a dull black paint and a drybrush with "gun metal".
 

 
This is the complete layout of guns for Jack Aubreys Surprise  18punder caronade for the boat, 24 pounder for the upper deck, 12pounder longguns for the main battery and 9pounder longguns for the chasers.
 
 
Same thing with the boats:
 
I tried to simplyfy the whole procedure for the holiday "workbench".
 
cardboard replaced more elaborate methods:
 

 
The jollyboat took me three or four days hard holidaywork

 

 
When the boat was completed, I could´nt withstand to place it in front of the famous church tower of Coullioure (as a tribute zu POB )
My dog "Queequegg" was not amused though...
 

 

 
The pinnace is carvel planked but was build the same way.

Good idea, the problem is, a lot of the "how-to-do" pictures drowned, when a german forum suddenly "capsized" and sank deep in the heard of the internet nirwana...
 
have a look through Jack Aubreys rear windows...
 
Well there still are a few examples to be found in my personal data nirwana....
 
The Lamp

 
The asymetrical head was formed using copper foil, the base is a ordinary silver bordure from a goldsmith shop. Very useful especially if you don´t like to carve such horribly small parts. Its even better than a photo etching because it´s three dimentional and more convincing. I used it again for the portside galleries.
 

 
The glas is no glas at all. I employed a conventional laminator (bureau) without putting a sheet of paper in between. This material turned out to be very resistent using cyano acrylate glue ( clear plastic often tents to get "milky")
 

 
Before the lamp finally became decorated with oak leafes, it looked somewhat "chinese".
 

 
The side galleries

 
What the hell is that? A part of the original sketch of Mr. Marshal from 1798
 
and this is my, a little bit flamboyant design...
 
You may have noticed that my HMS Surprise is not symetrical, the starboard side is coppered, the guns are runed out and it features the shown side gallery.
 
The port side...
 

 

 
is looking more conventional. (despite the nice Sofia Aubrey portrait of course)
 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 135 – Capstans 3
 
With the capstan upper works mounted on their spindles, the next task was to make the baseplates and underlying timber supports.  Lacking cross-sectional details for these, I decided to mount them on an iron baseplate that would incorporate the anti-reversing pawl ring.  The appearance would be as shown in pictures of this type of capstan.
 
The iron baseplates with a groove around the outer edge were made first.  Stops for the pawls would later be soldered into the groove.  The first picture shows a baseplate being turned in brass.
 

 
A hole was first center marked and bored to fit the spindle diameter.  After turning to the final outside diameter of 44”, a 3” x 3” grove was then face turned as shown in the above picture.  The inside of this groove will be flush with the o.d. of the capstan bottom disk with its ½” thick iron rim installed.  In the picture this baseplate is being parted off.  The baseplates will be used to gauge the fit into the wood bases that were made next.
 
In the next picture, a pear block has been turned to the outer 54” diameter of the round wood base and the seat for the iron base plate is being face turned.
 

 
The grain digestion of these wood bases is fore and aft.  The next picture shows one of the baseplates being test fitted.
 

 
In the next picture the wood base is being parted off.
 

 
The main deck capstan has been temporarily set on these base parts in the next picture.
 

 
The iron band around the lower ring has been fitted and cemented to the disk with CA.  It was made from a leftover bit of hull strapping, measured to the circumference and silver soldered at the ends.
 
The main deck at the capstan location is virtually horizontal, so the issue of capstan rake did not have to be addressed.  This is not the case for the forward capstan that is mounted on the forecastle decking.  There is a lot of sheer on this deck, so the rake question had to be addressed.  I find this to be an interesting issue.  If the capstan is mounted vertically on a deck with considerable sheer the men will be forced to bend and raise their backs as the work their way around.  Making the capstan perpendicular to the deck seems a logical solution.  Being vertical offers no practical advantage that I can see.  However, capstans are shown vertical on many drawings, including Bill Crothers’ drawings that I have as a reference.  On the other hand, one of the Young America photos seems to show the forecastle capstan canted somewhat aft.  To try and resolve this, I looked through every clipper ship drawing and photo in the dozens of references that I have on these ships (Crothers, Chapelle, MacGregor, Campbell and others).  This left me exhausted and not completely satisfied.  I concluded that capstans were generally shown vertical on most drawings, but might be canted aft somewhat on decks with substantial sheer.  I decided to make the forecastle capstan essentially, but perhaps not precisely, vertical.
 
To do this, the wood base must be thicker at the aft end.  To accomplish this, the wood block was canted in the four jaw chuck after face turning the baseplate recess – as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture the base is being parted off in the angled position.  The next picture shows the capstan temporarily fitted on its base.
 

 
It has a slight rake aft that I thought was appropriate given the appearance of the actual capstan in the photo of the ship.
 
In the next part, the pawl stops and ratchet arms will be added and the capstans permanently mounted.
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 42– Fancy Rail Completion
 
This will be the last post on the POB version of the model, since it’s purpose as a demo model for the book had been fulfilled at this stage.  This stage of completion for both models constitutes the scope of volume I of the book and can be seen in the last picture in this post.  This point was reached on the framed version at the end of May 2015 and for the POB version in early October 2015 – just before the NRG Conference.
 
The only step remaining to be covered on the POB version is the completion of the fancy rails that cap the bulwarks along the main deck - quite a simple process after the curved shapes at the ends.  In the first picture a section of rail on the port side has been made, painted and pinned in place.
 

 
The pins are placed in the toptimbers.  The holes will later be filled with copper wire bolts to reinforce the connection and fill the holes.
 
 The width of this rail steps down at each of the breast beams.  The reason for wider widths at the poop and forecastle were explained in an earlier post.  In the next picture the rail has been raised on the pins so glue can be applied to the top of the bulwark and toptimbers.
 

 
As I have noted at other times, this method avoids having to find pinholes under a layer of glue.  In the next picture the rail has been pushed down and clamped.
 

 
At this stage all the excess glue was washed off with water. The next three pictures repeat the process on a forward section of the starboard rail.
 

 

 

 
Once all the pins had been removed, wire bolts were epoxied in and the top of the rail was filed/sanded smooth and repainted.  The sides of the rails were left untouched to avoid having to paint the white/black joint line.  The last picture shows the POB model at completion next to big sister.  All the remaining work that will be done on the larger framed version will be by methods that could be used on both.  That remaining work, including masting and rigging, are planned to be included in Volume II.
 

 
Those that attended the NRG conference at Mystic will probably have seen the models pictured above.  For the conference they were mounted on temporary bases with the base drawings attached.  The POB version remains as shown, residing in my basement.  The framed version has progressed substantially, as followers of the other blog will have noted.
 
I hope the increased level of method description in these postings will prove helpful to purchasers of the book who wish to build the POB version.  As I mentioned earlier, I have made these posts and given more process detail to supplement the information provided in the book on this version.
 
I like the size of this model and it is very tempting for me to consider finishing and rigging it, but I suspect after doing that work on big sister I may be in for a break and perhaps something different.  We’ll see.
 
Ed

Lets have a little surprise gathering tonight
 

 
a litle tribute to Capt. Marryat, the almost (al least in Germany) forgotten godfather of naval storys.
 
Ther are a lot of thíngs that make a quarterdeck looking "authentic", the capstan, the wheel and of course the binnacle.
 

 

 

 
... and aft of the wheel the (one and only) ships lamp.
 

Next I started to make the bugsprit. It was made of alder, which is local, cheap, soft and very tight grained wood. Not very often referred here, but I like it very much. Coloured again with oak stain.
Chains are bought from a jewellery shop, being silver, because I didn`t find anywhere thin enough made of brass. Darkened with Carr`s brass darkening stuff. Shackles are of 0,56 mm soldering tin and insect needles.
The rope is from German Morope, being 0,25 mm beige rope. I don`t know the function of this rope, and whether it is correctly laid, because there was no information in the drawing. But I am sure the specialists among you could give more advice for this.
 

 

 
 
Another thing: I would like to edit the heading of my build, but don`t know how to do it. I wonder if you could help me.
 
 
To be continued.....
 
matti

Has it really been five years? Congratulations! This is one of my favorite build logs to follow. You appear to think you are not as good a builder as some people? While there will always be someone somewhere that can do things better than any of us individually, I still have to point out that the modelers who work in a large scale and actually build an honest Plank on Frame Ship of the Line are few and far between. I never have.

When I started this build (over 5 years ago) it was my intention to finish up with a fully rigged ship. Right now at this time I’m not sure if I’ll ‘progress’ that far, but at least I want to have a completed hull model.
There are still so many small parts to be made and fitted to the hull and next task I chose were the boarding steps. I don’t know how all you proper model ship builders make these steps and before I recently got a milling machine I had imagined that I would have glued a narrow piece of timber to the underside of the step to achieve that ‘two-tiered’ appearance, but instead here’s how I’ve done them ---
In a 2mm thick piece I milled a reveal at about 0.75mm below the top edge of what will be the step . . . probably better seen in the pic below >>>
(each length had to be milled in 2 stages as the 'working travel' of the work table is only 134mm. In the pic the first half has been milled and the workpiece has been moved along the table ready for the 2nd half to be milled. The first half wasn't milled in 'mid-air' ! )

I used 2 pieces of about 190mm in length in order to obtain enough steps for one side of the ship from each piece then drilled 3mm holes at 11mm centres below the top of the ‘step’ along the entire length. These holes ensured a constant length of 11mm for each step and also provided an arc shaped cut-out on the underside at each end of every step after they were finally cut out >>>

Here’s one of the 190mm lengths after being milled to width (in 2 pieces after it collided with a ship builder’s hand) >>>

 . . . and cut into individual steps >>>

 . . . then, on the ship >>>

All the steps shown in the pics above were milled to final width and they are all more or less identical.
However, without thinking it through, I didn't use the milling machine at first to cut the other strip of steps to width. Instead, I started to cut them by hand and after about 5 or 6 I realised that it was going to be difficult to get them all a uniform width so I finished off the strip in the machine . . . but now I don't have a 'collection' of identical steps for the other side of the ship . . .
​ . . . so, it's back to the milling machine with a new 190mm length to start over again . . . 

Concerning the store bought Belaying Pins, I regard them as one of the great shames of the hobby. Manufacturers turn out decent metal pins but the wood ones they offer are a scandal and they do more to ruin good models than nearly any other off-the-shelf fixture, in my opinion. The engineering involved in turning out thousands of consistent wooden pins is too difficult to do economically I suppose- getting your industrial lathe to work at that level of tolerance in the wooden medium must be impossible so the best they can do is turn out these cartoonish wooden bulbs and call them Pins. Then the problems cascade from there as model builders try to reconcile these fat pins with their accurate plans, plans which show pin rails of accurate length and an accurate number of holes for pins. Now when these fat pins are jammed in there their holes have to be bored out larger to fit them and the spacing between the holes has to be tighter too in order to get them to fit on the rail, leaving not enough room between them to allow for the lines to be properly belayed and ruining the realism of the model. I have always made pins out of piano wire or stretched plastic sprue. This is not an option for the purist who can only envision the use of wood overall on their models. But I always rig my models and my accurately scaled pins vanish under the three crossing turns of the belayed lines leaving only their heads visible.

Hi All,
time for a small update.
 
Having started the build-up of the stern deadwood (and while the glue was setting) I focussed my attention to the bow.
There is a complicated scarph joint which I tackled with the following technique:
The joint in question:


 
I used electricians insulating tape to mark where I should remove wood:


 
This is the result:  The depth of the scarph is about half the width of the keel:


 
Even though I was very carefull to align all pieces correctly when marking (and gluing), and cut exactly along the lines I had marked, it transpired that I was off-kilter by a very small amount (but still too much to my liking):

 
Some careful pushing of the wood proved to me that it was possible to obtain the correct angle without breaking the wood.  However, I did not want any stress in the wood to develop (at least not at this early point in the build).  Then I remembered one of the tips from Chuck - he uses and heat gun to bend planks while planking a hull.
 
So I decided to give it a try before remaking the bow.  It turned out to be a success.  The keel is straight, the bow has a much better rake (angle) - at least one I can live with - and has kept that angle for several months now.
Here is a picture of the bow a few weeks after trial using my industrial heat gun (heat reaches 840 degrees Celcius):

 
When using that gun I have to be careful of a number of things: not scorching the wood, trying to avoid scorching any paper underneath - and keeping my fingers from getting burned (it is blooming hot, I can tell ya).
 
That's all folks
slainte
Peter

Good evening in the MSW world,
 
thanks for the compliments, I am very happy that you like it.
 
As already seen the hull has been built into the shell construction. Robert Volk had described it in his book, and I tried it on the trunk of the ROYAL WILLIAM and am very satisfied. Between the frames have been glued pine wood strips of 5x10 mm. The strips I have had 1 mm above the frames protrude, and then I sanded the shape of the frames. So I got a very solid hull. The hull is also a little heavier, but that does not matter. The second planking pear wood used was 0.5 x 5 mm.
 
@ Nils: All carvings are made ​​by myself. It takes a long time till I've finished, since I work with knives. For a ornamental pillar at the rear I have 20 minutes needed. Then there are some 80 pieces for many hours.
 
Here are some photos from the ROYAL WILLIAM arise. Tomorrow I will make again in the shipyard and take some photos of the carvings.
 
Regards Kay

HMS Royal William in 1719
 
Historical Background
 
 
The HMS Royal William in 1719 was the second ship of that name. The first HMS ROYAL WILLIAM was built in 1692 out of the 1670 HMS PRINCE forth. Rebuilt in this the extent of HMS PRINCE were retained, only the appearance has been significantly modernized. It was in honor of King William III. renamed HMS PRINCE in HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. The HMS ROYAL WILLIAM in 1692 was subjected to this Rebuilt in Chatham by shipwright Robert Lee.
William III. reigned from 1689 to 1702. He comes from the house of Oranien Nassau.
To make in England, he came through the „Glorious Revolution" 1688/89, at the Stuart King James II was deposed. William III. was married to Mary II Stuart. Mary II Stuart died on December 28, 1694th . After the death of William III. by Maria's sister, Anne Stuart power. Quenn Anne was the last British queen tables from the House of Stuart.
Anne reigned from 1702 to 1714. The English Parliament cleared the way for George I from the House of Hanover with the „Act of Settlement“. George I ruled Great Britain from 1714 to 1727. In the reign of George I., the second much Rebuilt HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. In 1719, she was subjected to this Rebuilt in Portsmouth by ship builder John Naish. You still kept the name HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. Rebuilt in 1756 during her next she was from a first rate to a seconde rate of 84 cannon built back. She was one of the ships of the Royal Navy with the longest period of service and was scrapped in 1813. Of the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM, there are three models in the NMM in London and one in Annapolis from the Rogers Collektion. Although the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM is one of the best documented ships of the Royal Navy, so there are very large differences in the models. In this I'll talk more about in the course of my building report.
 
My ROYAL WILLIAM is based on the plans of Euromodel. The keel and the frames are made of poplar plywood and the hull was built of pinewood. After a little bit of boxwood and pear only came to use. Now some pictures, I will soon, when I have more time, to write much more.
 
Regards Kay
 
I hope you understand my bad english, I will learn it here in the forum definitely better.

Hi everybody
The bilge pump is a little story for itself
I've learned to sand casting on a summer course at an artist school. the theme was jewelry - I'm not interested in jewelry but the technique i can use for metal fitings in model building.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
At this point the are not glued on yeat.
 
Cheers All
 
Jens
 
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 41 – Forecastle Fancy Rail
 
We are almost approaching the end of the modeling I did on the 1:96 version of Young America.  In the last part the fancy rail around the stern was installed.  The same methods were used on the fancy rail at the bow – with a few minor differences.
 
In the first picture, the central, forward section of the rail has been pinned in place – prior to cutting the scarph joints.
 

 
A template made from one of the pdf drawings was used, since the outer shape could not be traced as was done on the stern.   The joints were then formed, the inside (only) edge rounded by sanding, and the piece painted.  It is shown pinned in place below.
 

 
The side pieces were then fitted in the same manner as those at the stern – as shown below.
 

 
The joints were then formed on these, the edges rounded, and the pieces painted before installation. The starboard piece is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
Note the use of a screw clamp to close the joint to the forward section.  The next step is shown in the last picture.
 

 
There is a small triangular area between the knightheads and the rail on each side which must be capped.  In the picture, small pieces are being fit over these areas.  The outside edge of the forward piece was left unrounded for this work.  Fitting these with an invisible joint required some sanding of the top faces of the installed pieces – as can be seen.  These were of course painted over later – after the outside edges were made flush with the main pieces and rounded over.  Unfortunately, I did not take a close-up picture of the finished work.
 
All that now remained to do on this model was to add the fancy rails along the main deck.  This would bring it to the relatively presentable state for the trip to the NRG conference in October.  I will cover that last bit of work in the next – and perhaps final – part.
 
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 39 – Stern Fancy Rail
 
The so-called “fancy rail” capped the tops of the bulwarks along the main rail, but at the forecastle and poop decks it also served to seal off and make watertight the top of the framing at the side.  Although the curved margin plank below covered the tops of the timbers in these areas, this was not likely a caulked, waterproof joint.  For this reason, the fancy rails at the forecastle and poop needed to be wide enough to overlap the outboard planks and also the inside margin plank by enough to permit good caulked joints.  I wrestled with this because published sections through the bulwarks at the main deck generally show capping rails too narrow to meet the needs described above where they are at deck level.  To resolve this, I decided to make the fancy rail wider at the end decks and step it down at the breast beams to a narrower width along the main deck bulwarks.  A long story, but one that builders of the model should find useful.
 
The work on the fancy rail started at the stern.  The process for making the curved, hook-scarphed pieces was used on the margin plank below and on all similar pieces at both ends.  Since I took a lot of pictures of the method on this rail, and since there are a number of these pieces to make, I decided to show the process that I use for this in some detail. Although it is covered in depth in the book for the framed model, this description may be of help to builders of this smaller version.   In the first picture the first piece has been cut and pinned on the starboard quarter.  
 

 
Pin holes were pre-drilled for a sliding fit with the pins.  The joint of the two stern sections will be on the centerline – staggered from the joints on the margin plank below.  On this model all the pieces were cut from ¾” stock.  I used this as a maximum thickness on this version so modelers could cut members to size with a good 4” circular saw and not need major tools like full size band(or circular) saw and thickness sander(or planer) that would be necessary if starting with the thicker stock that is needed for many pieces on the framed model.  In this case the stock was readily available ¾” maple cut to a thickness of 3½” (just over 1/32”).  It will be painted.
 
In the next picture the scarph joints have been formed at the ends and the piece re-pinned in place.
 

 
The piece extends about 3” outside of the outboard planking and covers about one-half of the margin plank.  The piece was initially formed by the process shown below for the second piece on the port side.
 

 
The ¾” width of maple strip was first marked to the shape of the stern from below as shown.  The piece is being test fit in the next picture after cutting the outer curve.
 

 
In the next picture end of this piece is being marked from the joint of the piece below.
 

 
The full width of the piece was then marked out using a compass set to the width of the plank with an extended leg held to the outer curve.  It was then carefully cut and shaped to this line.  Care is needed because of the weak cross grain at the ends.  I believe in an earlier post I pasted similar pieces to a scrap piece to protect the ends on a similar piece for cutting.  The next picture shows the piece slipped under the first piece, fit into place and being drilled for locating pins.
 

 
Once pinned the joint on the new piece can be marked out using a very sharp pencil as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The joint was then cut on the second piece and fitted to the first as shown below. 
 

 
This picture was taken during the cutting and fitting process.  Note that the joint has not yet been cut at the forward end of this piece.  I will not describe cutting these joints since the method appears in a number of my other posts and is fully described in the book – and in the Naiad books.
 
In the next part the side rails along the poop will be fitted and all these rails rounded off, painted and installed.
 
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 38 – Channels and Pin Rails
 
The upper channels were installed first.  They were glued into the gap in the outer planking left for the main rail.  In the first picture these have been installed and one of the lower channels is being positioned and glued.
 

 
 
The lower channels were first located and pinned then separated on the pins so glue could be applied as shown.  The next picture shows one of these being clamped after gluing.
 

 
The channel is both pinned and clamped.  The small screw clamp at the center adjusts and holds the lower channel in a horizontal position.  After the glue had set the pins were replaced by epoxied wire bolts to strengthen the joint.
 
Next the pin rails inside the bulwarks were made and installed.  The holes were drilled thru these on the milling machine to maintain even spacing and a smooth line.  In the next picture the paint is being filed off the inside of the top timbers below the main rail so the pin rails can be glued.
 

 
After the pin rail was fitted and any width adjustments made to ensure the correct projection inside the rail, it was clamped in position and holes were drilled through it into each toptimber.  These were used for pins to maintain alignment when gluing and later replaced by wire bolts – epoxied in to strengthen the connection against future rigging strains.  In the next picture a rail has been pulled out on the pins for application of glue.
 

 
The rail was then pushed into position and clamped.
 
With all this work completed, the hull could be painted.  The methods I used for this were covered elsewhere so I will not repeat here.  Once the hull and the sections of the white outer main rail were painted, those sections could be installed in the gap left in the planking.  The section around the stern that was made earlier is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
This piece was fitted and trimmed earlier to expose the correct width outside the planking.  The next picture shows one of the installed section between channels.
 

 
The last picture shows the hull on the port side at this stage.
 

 
The work I planned for this model was almost complete at this stage.  All that remained was to install the capping fancy rail along the top of the side. 
 
Ed

Now that the rigging phase is about to start, I had to prepare myself by starting to make the blocks. According to drawing the smallest blocks are about 4x3x2 mm, so there is no need to make very small "microblocks".
 
Again I chose birch to be my material for these, and made first about 2 mm thick piece of it. From this a strip containing 10 pcs billets was milled with a cnc router. Because my machine doesn`t have fourth axle, the slots for wheels had to be milled using manual machine with 0,6 mm cutter. 0,5 mm thick wheels were cut from diam. 1,6 mm styrene rod  and inserted into the slots. Finally the blocks were separated from strip and sanded manually & stained with oak colour.
I could very easily have made working blocks by drilling axle holes to the blocks and wheels, but I thought these stationary ones to be enough for my build.
 
Outer form milled in CNC machine:

 
 
Slots for wheels milled using manual milling machine:

 
Blocks separated from the strip and wheels inserted:

 
 
Final stained blocks. Wheels to be coloured brown and glued:

 
 
And now the only thing that remains is to make hundreds of these, including some double and triple ones too, but that is another story....
 
 
matti