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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. There is more snow in Malaga, southern Spain, than in Helsinki, southern Finland.
  2. Beautiful carvings. Could you explain more like which 3D programs you use, what kind of 3D milling machine you have, etc.
  3. Hello Aviaamator, I have not followed your blog for a long time, but now I see that you have had some progress. What a wonderful ship's boat you have made, congratulations! There are a few mistakes at Ancre's plans, so don't worry. You have to use your imagination once and a while to think how to continue building. After all nobody can claim afterwards if certain details have been build right or wrong, if they are built as perfectly as you are doing. And I am very glad you have healed from your health problems, congratulations for that too!
  4. Hello Mikko and welcome to very nice forum. Here are already some shipmodel builders from Finland, but there is always room for more. You are building a nice sailboat!
  5. Proxxon is selling a plastic self centring 4 jaw chuck for their DB250 wood lathe. Not good for metal but quite reasonable for wood. I have used it many times to make parts of different wood species.
  6. January in Finland is normally -10 to -20 Celsius and lot of snow. This week we have had about +5 and no snow at all. Climate change is really happening!
  7. I have used a mixture of epoxy and microballons. It has many advantages: When cured it is very easy to sand and light. And you can make it as solid as you want, from a youghurt like into almost solid only adding more microballons into mixture. Also you can prepare the amount you need without the need of buying a full tube which always hardens when not in use. Normally it is white but it can be colored with any pigments just mixed into it.
  8. You could use different shades of stain to "paint" the lengths of planks to have color change if you want.
  9. Hello Michael, would it work if you first prepare the full length plank so that it will fit completely into the hull, tapering the ends as necessary, and after that cut it into pieces of 127 mm length and glue them into the hull? This way you have the widths of plank ends to match with each other.
  10. You might be interested about the jig I made to tie rope around a block:
  11. Thank you Chuck for wonderful videos about hull planking. I didn't believe it is so simple, but now I know better. However I have one question: You said you use only CA glue to fasten the planks into bulkheads. Could you inform which brand of glue you are using? Because I have tried that too with different brands, but have not found any which would stick strongly enough. In fact they are not sticking at all perhaps due to the porosity of wood. And I would love to see how you are planking the stern of the hull too, because normally there is no groove where to place the end of plank.
  12. Very nice work hyw. I understand you have made a stove and a steam boiler to supply some sort of steam engine. Are you using etched brass parts for those miniature items?
  13. Or why not buy a perfect documentation package of the French cutter Le Cerf and scratch build her: https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html#/langue-anglais Plank on bulkhead model, not too complicated to build and good practice before Victory. Here is mine, built a few years ago:
  14. I have also found out that the 5 minutes Araldit does not always cure completely hard. That is why I have moved to use the 60 minutes Araldite which seems to work better.
  15. That's true. First I thought to use M5x0.5 thread which would have given forward movement of 0.5 mm with one revolution. But then I thought it to be an overkill for what I needed. After all they are wooden planks which we are producing. A change of air moisture or temperature would have more effect on plank dimensions.

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