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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Very nice work hyw. I understand you have made a stove and a steam boiler to supply some sort of steam engine. Are you using etched brass parts for those miniature items?
  2. Or why not buy a perfect documentation package of the French cutter Le Cerf and scratch build her: https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html#/langue-anglais Plank on bulkhead model, not too complicated to build and good practice before Victory. Here is mine, built a few years ago:
  3. I have also found out that the 5 minutes Araldit does not always cure completely hard. That is why I have moved to use the 60 minutes Araldite which seems to work better.
  4. That's true. First I thought to use M5x0.5 thread which would have given forward movement of 0.5 mm with one revolution. But then I thought it to be an overkill for what I needed. After all they are wooden planks which we are producing. A change of air moisture or temperature would have more effect on plank dimensions.
  5. When working with my present project, I needed very accurate planks with even height. First I tried to set the fence of my Proxxon saw manually, but it is very frustrating to have it set within a few hundreds of a millimeter. So i decided to make this small gadget to simplify the setting. The only thing what was needed was to mill two pieces of aluminium, and cut threads into them for set screw and locking screw. The thread of set screw is M6x1, so that one revolution extends the screw with one millimeter. The head of the screw has 10 divisions so that one division represents 0,1 mm movement. The set screw only pushes the fence, it is not threaded into it, which makes it easy to remove the gadget after the fence is set. With this equipment i can now easily adjust the width of planks in about 0,05 mm accuracy.
  6. In northern Finland the outside temperature was rising almost 42 degrees celcius within 24 hours, from -35.1to +6.5. This is a record of all times here.
  7. Hello Aviaamator, at least I read your blog. Wonderful work you make there. I was watching with great interest your carving work and that video where a guy started carving. It looks that everything depends of very sharp tools. I have tried to sharpen my tools myself but never actually had them sharp enough. So first to learn how to sharpen and only then start carving. And you asked whether to paint the new model or not. I would leave it as is, without paint.
  8. Very nice tutorial torpedochief! I have always thought that the etch preventing film must be on both sides of the brass. So this is much easier method. But there remains one question: Where to get and what exactly is the brand of this plastic coated paper?
  9. I just love many of your building methods like using the coal fibre strips to check the lines of the hull, plank bending with help of heated aluminium profiles, and tying of planks with polyester string during glue curing. All of these methods are quite new to me and I am sure I will use them with my next build, whatever it might be.
  10. Hello MHo and welcome on board. Nice to have fellow members here from Finland.
  11. Thanks a lot for your opinions guys, this is what I thought too. A toy which doesn't perform satisfactorily any of the functions promised. So better to save one's hard earned cash and leave it to the shop.
  12. I found at facebook an interesting video about this machine. It does 3D printing, laser engraving and cnc carving, and price seems to be attractive too. But does it everything what it promises? https://www.solopopgo.com/products/all-metal-3d-printer
  13. I have sometimes used the Proxxon drill chuck with a Proxxon arbor in a bigger lathe to turn very small parts which are not possible to attach in a big lathe 3 jaw chuck. The first picture is showing this: The second picture shows the size difference of Proxxon 3 jaw chuck and drill chuck on the bed of DB250 lathe together with lathe spindle thread. From this picture it is easy to see that the drill chuch does not fit on the lathe spindle thread:
  14. One possibility might be to use AK Interactive's old bronze paint diluted in turpentine or similar and mixed with small amount of black paint. I was using this mixture to paint my cannons with Le Cerf project. At least I was quite happy with the result. https://ak-interactive.com/product/true-metal-old-bronze/
  15. Thanks a lot Rick for an interesting method. I have to try this when starting a new project. Very interesting feature is also to add more bulkheads if there are not enough them at the original plan. For this I should however get some sort of 3D cad and learn to use it, but that is another story. Interesting is also the fact that the bulkheads shown at the drawing represent the outer surface of the ship. And when you make the bulkheads after the drawing, you have to deduct the thickness of planking from them. I wonder how many of us are doing that. It is very difficult to redraw the bulkheads so that the outer form remains unchanged. So far I have made only 2 or 3 models and have made my bulkheads exactly as shown on drawing, so resulting to slightly larger hulls than they should be. But who will notice that? But you are right, when building a museum model, you should take also this fact in consideration.

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