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Moxis

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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Hello Agamemnon9, could you explain how you make those wonderful carvings? And if you consider new tools, how about a small CNC router or 3D printer and a good 3D design program?
  2. When I was making a round compass cowl for my Maaninka steamer, I first made a suitable sized ovalish ball out of plasticine. On the ball I applied a thin coat of a gel of milled fiberglass and epoxy, but left the underside open. When the epoxy was cured I removed the plasticine so I had a thin ballform coating which was sanded smooth and painted with brass colored Alclad. When weathered with black pigments the result looked quite realistic, although was not shiny polished unit as normal with these things. Thin celluloid plate was glued inside the cowl as a glass and nice compass rose found in Internet was scaled and printed & attached under glass. Then the cowl was glued on top of a wooden pinnacle.
  3. So far I have thought that the best scroll saw ever is Hegner. https://www.hegner.co.uk/products/machine-tools/scrollsaws.html It could be interesting to see a comparison between Dewalt and Hegner.
  4. I have used milled fiberglass mixed with epoxy to a gel like stuff and applied it inside the hull. When cured it strengthens the hull considerably and makes it watertight. https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Milled-Fiberglass-Ounces/dp/B001BHEGRO
  5. Thanks Per and Jaager. My Corel version was many years old, I think it was #7 or near. No key or anything left, so I think it is not possible to restart it any more. GIMP might be nice. I have to study it more carefully. I don't need this software very often, so don't want to invest hard earned money for it.
  6. From time to time I need some flags or other graphic drawings for my projects. Earlier I was using Corel Draw which is a vector based program and very useful for these tasks. Unfortunately a few months ago my old computer crashed together with Corel Draw. I was immediately downloading a free trial version but that is accessible only for 30 days. Buying new version is out of question because of high price. Does anybody know any other free or affordable graphic design software which would have nearly same features as Corel has? I was already testing Inkscape but results are not very promising, even after learning and reading through numerous tutorials available.
  7. Thank you guys, now I know I have a 7,8" bandsaw (wheel diameter 200 mm), a nice old Delta which could be bigger and more accurate. But with it I have built a lot of models and it fullfills my needs satisfactorily. I had a Delta scroll saw too, but never learned how to use it properly. Or maybe it just was not the perfect tool, so I let it free to recirculation for somebody else's frustration. A Hegner would be my dream, but too expensive for a retired person. So old school manual jeweler's saw is what I am using to produce small accurate parts. Time I have enough!
  8. I have always wondered what means 9", 12", 14", with bandsaws? Is it the diameter of the wheels, throat distance or what?
  9. I have same question, I wouldn't like to order blades from US, they must be available in Europe too.
  10. I was reading through the instructions .pdf but didn't quite understand the chapter "back taper". Is it really so that the fence of Byrnes saw is divided in two, the part before blade and the one after blade? And this gentleman is adjusting the part after blade a bit (0.005") differently than the forward part? Or is there something that I just don't understand?
  11. Good information about the blades, thanks Mark! I have tried the slitting saw blades made of HSS for ripping planks but had not very good results. The blades were bending and didn't give straight strips, and width of planks were not at all equal. So this is why I changed into tungsten carbide tipped blades and have had much better results. But it may be that my blades were too thin, they had thickness of 0,5 mm and 1 mm.
  12. I have a Proxxon FET, which is a great little saw which I use every day for scratch building. I am using also a 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade with the saw, which is better for ripping planks & other work than the stock one. But because the saw is already an old model, it has one drawback: It does not have the micrometer adjustable fence which is standard with new saws nowadays. So if you folks are thinking to buy the FET, (or a Micro Lux alternative) be sure that it has this micrometer adjustable fence. And buy the 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade as well. You won't regret it. https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27070.php?list
  13. I was trying to find this flux from internet but found only the flux remover. Is this the stuff you are referring to?
  14. Very interesting topic. Someone was asking where to get screws smaller than 1,0 millimetres. Here you can buy screws starting from M0,6: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/modellschrauben-messing/messing-hoher-kopf.html
  15. The same thing has happened in aeroplane building hobby too. Earlier you had to build your plane using balsawood, paper etc. and only after that go flying it. But now you go into the nearest shop or order it from a far eastern supplier and buy beautifully built (3D printed) plane with electric motor and radio control, everything ready made and working perfectly, and go to fly it. So nobody is any more interested to build a plane by himself. I am afraid that this is going to happen with ship model building hobby too.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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