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Rick01

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  1. Hi - I see you've had a look at my build and will have noted a few of the problems I ran across with the build. To make the best of this you do need to dry fit and measure most items as I was never really happy with what was given on the plans. As for the padding out of the bulkheads I seem to remember at least two needed work otherwise the planking had a dip in it!! Have fun and look at as many photos of actual working dhows as you can find, avoiding the tourist ones if you want something with realism. Rick
  2. Still around but now only viewing. 😞 Arthritis in my spine and dominant wrist plus a couple of cataracts to be attended to early next year have stopped me building anything at the moment. Maybe later next year as I'm also seeing surgeons about the wrist, keeping my fingers crossed. Rick
  3. Hmmm I'm not sure if I'm speaking with you or not. Like others here I was traumatised when the build stopped - it was just like finding the last few pages of a brilliant book had been removed!! 😞 Anyway welcome back mate, it's good to see you here again and I'm looking forward to seeing this little build finished. 🙂 Rick
  4. For a master class in building this model check out this build https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15099-lady-nelson-by-vossiewulf-amativictory-models-164/ for some reason he never completed it but what there is, is well worth reading. Rick
  5. I seem to have been blocked from this thread Australia - If the crocs and spiders don't get you, the possums will . . . either that or the whole string has disappeared. Can admin please see what has happened here. Rick
  6. I'd like to say I made them of wood, but with no where enough skill for items that small I did twisted wire around a suitable bit of dowel, then ran a dremel cutting disk up the wire to provide a series of loops. A bit of solder and a paint job finished it. As the ship isn't viewed with a magnifying glass I'm quite happy with the result. Bowsprit guys and anchor were another item that needed a lot of adjustment until I had a clear run for all ropes. Rick
  7. I shifted mine to the rear of the channels - it just didn't make sense otherwise. As it is there is practically no port/starboard movement on the lower spar! As to the rings, if you used PVA glue you could get a bit drastic and soak the lower fitments on the mast, remove, fit rings then replace. I've just done that with the waterways on a model I'm working on as I just wasn't happy with the original fit and knew it was going to bug me if it wasn't fixed. Rick
  8. Something I almost didn't do on my original model - mast rings. Bit of a problem for you if you've already mounted the mast! Have you considered this, the correct number is clearly shown on King's sketch of the ship. Rick
  9. Almost all my ironwork is done using a flat black cartridge paper with PVA glue used to secure it. Pretty well impossible to tell the difference unless you use a magnifying glass on it. Rick
  10. It's probably worth re-visiting King's sketch of the Mermaid as it does give a rough idea of how he saw the basic rigging as well. Rick
  11. I've just looked back at my copy of the instructions. I made a few notes at the time and basically I threw my hands up in despair and then turned to Petersson's book as it was fairly obvious that the rigging plans had been taken from this book. I took it slowly, mounting and rigging each mast/spar fully before going to the next (working up the mast obviously). Good luck! Rick
  12. Pretty much - I lashed a block to the head of the mast at the rear. Ran the halliard from the block, through a free running block with a hook lashed on it back through the topmast block, then down to a spare belaying pin port side. The hook was secured in one of the eye bolts on the deck. Similar to the halliard as shown on p27 of Petersson. Hope my explanation is fairly clear. He also has a problem with the anchor cables on p21 - he's never going to get both anchors lowered at the same time! Note that the guy who put the Mermaid together has also followed Petersson on that point. Rick
  13. Don't forget that you still need a hoist for the spar/sail so a block at the head of the topmast is needed. I also ran the rigging through the block and down to eyebolts by the main hold. That may not be the correct anchor point but at the time it was the best idea I had. If you come up with some other way of handling it I'm happy to re-rig mine! Rick
  14. I re-jigged my model around the time we were all discussing the stern and its shape. I added a pair of bitt heads, but you need to be careful as it's easy for the anchor to foul the bowsprit braces. Page 1 post 27 has an illustration of her under sail with the anchor lashed up but it's not clear what to, so for my money it's a bitt head. You may also want to give yourself a refresher on those first few pages as there are a couple of points on the mast and its rigging that will need to be watched for. I'm afraid mine is now well encased in glass and I can't get a good photo easily, but if you think one will help I'll see what I can do. Rick
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