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Rick01

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  1. A tip for miss-drilled holes and similar boo boo's . Fill the problem with PVA glue then sand the offending item lightly until the error blends in with sawdust mixing itself into the PVA. If it's a large problem drop some PVA on a sheet on glass, sacrifice a spare bit of the correct timber by sanding it down to a pile of sawdust mix the two together and use as a filler. Covers all sorts of problems that way. Rick
  2. Definitely side by side - if you go through my build there's a clear shot late in the build showing this. The holes only need to be big enough for the thread to pass through - so not as large a hole as you've made. Remember that you never want rigging to foul so when in doubt see if it looks like things will foul when fitted. Rick
  3. Try making the hatch cover first then lay edging along its sides, then attach the whole assembly to the deck. You're not actually fitting the cargo hatch to a cut out in the deck so actual size is not actually relevant. Rick
  4. Thinking of you mate. I know the pain having an arthritic condition affecting my lower spine. Just don't push the pain too far even if you 're having trouble resting it just isn't worth it. Rick
  5. I noticed that when first looking for working dhows, I just didn't feel competent to get a deck to look as rough as those I did find where deck and fittings were well photographed. Rick
  6. I wouldn't worry too much about the looks, if you search working Dhows their decks don't even have nice neat planking more often than not and as for neat rope stowage - the idea never existed. Fair bit of work as far as trim on the deck yet! 😉 Rick
  7. You may want to re-check my build regarding decking and the trim that they discuss. The main mast well in particular needs looking at as the tolerances are very fine and getting the mast mounted with all the trim they discuss can be pretty hard. Rick
  8. Hi - I see you've had a look at my build and will have noted a few of the problems I ran across with the build. To make the best of this you do need to dry fit and measure most items as I was never really happy with what was given on the plans. As for the padding out of the bulkheads I seem to remember at least two needed work otherwise the planking had a dip in it!! Have fun and look at as many photos of actual working dhows as you can find, avoiding the tourist ones if you want something with realism. Rick
  9. Still around but now only viewing. 😞 Arthritis in my spine and dominant wrist plus a couple of cataracts to be attended to early next year have stopped me building anything at the moment. Maybe later next year as I'm also seeing surgeons about the wrist, keeping my fingers crossed. Rick
  10. Hmmm I'm not sure if I'm speaking with you or not. Like others here I was traumatised when the build stopped - it was just like finding the last few pages of a brilliant book had been removed!! 😞 Anyway welcome back mate, it's good to see you here again and I'm looking forward to seeing this little build finished. 🙂 Rick
  11. For a master class in building this model check out this build https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15099-lady-nelson-by-vossiewulf-amativictory-models-164/ for some reason he never completed it but what there is, is well worth reading. Rick
  12. I seem to have been blocked from this thread Australia - If the crocs and spiders don't get you, the possums will . . . either that or the whole string has disappeared. Can admin please see what has happened here. Rick
  13. I'd like to say I made them of wood, but with no where enough skill for items that small I did twisted wire around a suitable bit of dowel, then ran a dremel cutting disk up the wire to provide a series of loops. A bit of solder and a paint job finished it. As the ship isn't viewed with a magnifying glass I'm quite happy with the result. Bowsprit guys and anchor were another item that needed a lot of adjustment until I had a clear run for all ropes. Rick
  14. I shifted mine to the rear of the channels - it just didn't make sense otherwise. As it is there is practically no port/starboard movement on the lower spar! As to the rings, if you used PVA glue you could get a bit drastic and soak the lower fitments on the mast, remove, fit rings then replace. I've just done that with the waterways on a model I'm working on as I just wasn't happy with the original fit and knew it was going to bug me if it wasn't fixed. Rick
  15. Something I almost didn't do on my original model - mast rings. Bit of a problem for you if you've already mounted the mast! Have you considered this, the correct number is clearly shown on King's sketch of the ship. Rick
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