Neill

The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops, 1767-1780, by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, published by Seawatch Books in four volumes.
 
B.E.

Everyone who has just announced the happy arrival of their newborn Sphinx, please open a build log. We want to see them all of course, but it will save B.E.'s log from being overwhelmed with your news. 

After an age sorting the 51 sets of plans and manual, and working out the best way to fit all in the box, the first has been done! 6.5kg in total (Speedy kit is 2kg and Duchess a little under 2.5kg)
 
Now for the rest..

Thinking About colour
 
There are four main colours other than black to be used on the model.
Red, Blue, White, Yellow, and shades thereof.
 
On every build I have done the actual shade has exorcised my mind, particularly for the colour blue.
 
I am interested to see how various tones look against the mainly Pearwood finish.

3538(2)
This is my rough colour comparison chart painted on a Pearwood background. All I am interested in here is how the colour relates to what will be the bright finish between Wale and Waist rail.
 
The colour selection features paints from Vallejo, Admiralty (Jotika/Caldercraft) and Humbrol. The majority are water based but the Admiralty Red Ochre and Humbrol RAF Blue are oil versions as I didn’t have the acrylic versions to hand.
 
I favour the more muted tones as seen on contemporary models, and I hope with this build I can settle on a colour that does not require mixing as that relieves me of working out a formula for re-mixes.
 
 
My initial thoughts are:-
Vallejo Flat Red   - inboard works and some deck fittings.
 
Vallejo Grey/blue - Ground to the Topsides and stern decorations. (Humbrol RAF Blue (96) runs a close second.)
 
Admiralty Yellow Ochre – Frieze decorations, but with other shades of yellow and white for toning and highlights.
 
I don’t intend to use gold on any area of the model.
 
There is a very good section on painting decorative friezes in Volume 11 of the ffm, the techniques of which can be applied to the brass etched versions supplied with the kit to good effect.
 
I am undecided about the lower hull as yet, if it’s good enough I may not paint it at all, but if I do I may need to tone a bright white down a little.
 
This is the last of my musings before that large box hopefully arrives next week and the build begins in earnest.
 
 
B.E.
21/08/21
 

Look what arrived today, as promised by my printers!
 
We will spend all weekend finishing the Sphinx kits, and making sure all is packed well, ready for shipping. All orders will be shipped next week.
 
In the meantime, I have still been working on the new fishing boast designs, and have gone almost as far as I can with my pre-prototype models of Erycina and Nisha.
 
I received samples of the 3-d printed castings for them yesterday. I decided to have the tow posts drawn in CAD and 3-d printed because I wanting it to be as true to the real thing as I could, as it has many shapes, coupled with a bracket with holes each side at the top. The winch drums are also 3-d printed castings, as is the chain pipe. The forward winch drums are new turned brass parts I had made. The rest of the kits will consist of laser cut and PE parts - but have to wait for the PE until next month...

Mine will have to be dockyard style, unrigged, due to size restrictions anyway, so no grumbling from me.  Looking forward to a big heavy box arriving soon.

Mine will have to be dockyard style, unrigged, due to size restrictions anyway, so no grumbling from me.  Looking forward to a big heavy box arriving soon.

As soon as it's fully rigged, yes...definitely. 
It's full steam ahead now so Chris can add that stuff to the Rev.2 instruction manual for next batch of kits. 
The rig stuff isn't really needed for the manual as that's usually all done via plans anyway, but it's nice to add some of it to the next updated manual.

I am told I will receive the printed material (plans, manual and box label) on Friday, so all Sphinx orders will start to be shipped from Monday.
 
This is well over three times the weight of any previous kit!
 
And thank you, I still cannot believe I sold out of my first batch! I am working on the second batch, but will not get the PE until late next month, as Italy seems to close down in August.

Wow, Chris's website shows the 1st run of the Sphinx is sold out.  Must be some sort of record. Congratulations to Chris and James. Long may the Vanguard line prosper. 
 
Malcolm   

I think MDF has run its course here folks, plus this is still a build log

"Throwaway", they look good to me.

Bristol is a great choice.
 
 

WoW it’s like Pegasus on steroids, 11½ feet longer and 3¼ feet wider at full scale.
Come on Chantelle. 😉
 
B.E.

Thanks guys for your support, I do hope I live up to our joint expectations. 🙄
 
@ WestPort – Thank you, glad my Pegasus build has been of use.
 
@ Greg - I will be using your build of Pegasus as an invaluable reference work for my deck plan layout.
 
@ Neill – matrimonial harmony - Good thinking, assists a build no end. 😄
 
@ Mark – I’m looking forward to enhancing the exposed deck beams with carlings, ledges, and knees etc;
 
B.E.

They do look nice, but lack the 'polish' of a proper display model, I cut corners, as my main concern is seeing if the parts fit as designed. there are some that don't, and will be changed slightly for Jim's parts.

"Throwaway", they look good to me.

MDF is a great material, all my workshop benching is made of it.  Like all things, it just needs to be used correctly and with care, whether large project or small.🤐🙂

MDF dust is especially nasty stuff if inhaled. In the past I tended to wear a mask if I had one, nowadays that is not a problem!

Thanks James.

"Throwaway", they look good to me.

"Throwaway", they look good to me.

Just been working away on my two new prototype (well, pre-prototypes) fishing boats. Thought I'd share some (bad) pics. They are now both double planked, with decks in place along with the bulwark timber frames.
 
Nisha, the smaller vessel, has just had her gunwale fitted, with Erycina (the larger, ex cutter turned fishing ketch) about to have hers fitted.
 
I have gone a little further with these, compared to the Fifie and Zulu, with the outer bulwarks pre cut and etched (as well as the inner bulwarks, which have the timberhead positions pre etched). So planking starts at just below deck level. They are also easier to plank. 
 
I note that some who built the Fifie and Zulu added detail below the main deck, so with these two, I have included the lower deck platform to the correct height, and included ladders for the companionways, if you wish to show companion door open.
 
Pic not great, and builds are quick and a little rough but these, like my Sphinx pre-prototype are 'throw away' models, and used only to make sure designs work as they should, and change where required. The real prototypes will be made later, once I am happy the designs are nailed down, which is now pretty close. No varnish applied, and both have just been sanded, so look a little dusty.
 
As with the Fifie and Zulu, they will have optional pre made sail sets, 4 for Nisha and 5 for Erycina. 
 
Oh, I used that flexible masking tape for the white boot topping, it was great!

Suffice to say that many wood dusts are classed as carcinogens, and with ply, you can add the bonding resin to that, which isn't water soluble. 
 
Anyway......we don't have a great track record on MSW for debating MDF, so let's close that subject. 

That’s not any less true of plywood dust or any sawdust for that matter. When sanding anything I wear a mask. MDF is a solid reliable frame for any 1:64 ship model.