davyboy

I think it could have happened like this.
To successfully take the boat overboard, this beam was lowered to the required level. At the same time, the beam remained connected to the davit and did not interfere with the work with the boat with its uncontrolled movements during the rocking of the ship.

Made another frame. They don't take as long to do as I'd feared.

I've been concerned about the shapes of the frames at the bow and stern. Because the model is based on a wreck which is very far from complete I'd had to generate its lines  from the remnants and from the lines of other ships of the same general time-frame (notably the Mary Rose, God bless 'er), and then use those lines to work out the shapes of the frames, and all this the first time I'd ever tried it, there was a fair bit of uncertainty. What if I've got the shapes wrong? Do all that work making them, waste all that wood - only to find they're wrong? So I cut out their shapes from card and put them (very!) roughly in place on the keel. They seem to work, so I feel better about going ahead with them when the time comes.


Steven

Post 25
The Lower Band.
This is the remaining planking down to the keel.
I have mostly used ca for plank fixing but I use  Roket odourless from Deluxe Materials, a little more expensive than the basic sort but there is none of the breathing issues.
Used on a slightly dampened plank it is very effective.

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I first fitted planks in continuation of the upper band down to the termination of the Square tuck. This comprised two strakes.

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The rabbet for the hull timbers at the stem, formed by the outer stem pattern, works very well on Harpy. A great asset for  bow planking, and providing a very neat finish.
I did use a micro chisel to pare down the first planking layer where required, to allow a better fit. It also helped to thin down slightly the Pear plank where it entered the rabbet.

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I now need to re-mark the planking runs for the final push.
 
B.E.
26/01/2025
 

As advertised, the deck clicked into place without and fiddling needed
 

Next feathered the ribs
 

 
Nest the stern patterns
 

 
Finally soaked and bent the the hull siding  to dry overnight. As others have noted, you need a lot of clamps.
 

Yeah but simulating wood with paint is a whole thing in and of itself, requiring at least two colors (one translucent) for best results and doing that without clogging the sheave holes would be a problem on smaller blocks. 

little more work on on the ship  loving the build

I have been quiet for a while; the main reason is my contemplating process re LR. I noticed few mistakes that I was not able to correct and that will be causing me more troubles as build continues, so I made executive decision to reuse all existing parts (only good one) and restart my build from scratch, which will make me more experienced scratch builder since I have a second build I can place in my pictures. And can pretend that I am working on two builds at the same time .

For this I have a new keel done and most of frames completed as well.









And previous experience...



Happy modelling..

Quater gallery construction and carvings.

Cannon port covers, backstay chainplates and quarterdeck accommodation ladder.

I got some additional carving practice, before trying the figurehead, while decorating the cathead.

Next were the bow gratings and seats of ease.

Around this time, COVID hit.  I we went on the road full time in our RV and this became my mobile shipyard.  Below is how the stern, with carvings eventually turned out, while I learned to carve in campgrounds across the USA!  This is where I discovered pearwood.  I started on the stern, hoping to gain some skill before tackling the figurehead!!

Post 24
Completing the first band.
My first action is to address the question of increasing sny.
I formed a plank in the normal way including the edge bend, and used this to shape a spiled version cut from 0.8mm fret.

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The two shapes.
The lower one is the spiled plank which has a less concave upper line reducing the upward curve on the next strake to be fitted.
 
I have now completed the first band.

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At the stern either stealers or planks that broaden out from the mid ships point will be required.
 I may use a combination of both as I have broader strips of Pearwood. It is not a critical decision as I fancy coppering this hull, after completing two bare plank hulls.
It has been some 14 years since I last coppered a hull (Pegasus) and it will keep me busy and extend the build time.
 
B.E.
24/01/2025

Finally installed the bolts and rings then completed the beams
 

Yes indeed. Though it's going to be a slow process, I'm afraid. 88 frames to build up out of bits. But I'm not in any hurry. 
 
The plan is to make every fourth frame and place them on the keel, then fill in the gaps. I have the positions of the 'one in four' frames marked on the keel in pencil.
 
After a bit of recherche research (sorry, I've just been speaking French for an hour and a half) I think the consensus of the (relatively) reliable pictures is that yes, though the planking curves up at the stern and some of it ends under the counter, much of it it nonetheless butts into the sternpost so it needs a rabbet. 
  
  
  
 
Ah well, better to find it out now before I commit myself by gluing any frames to the keel. The sequence of actions is important - I need to make sure I don't paint myself into a corner (in French 'me coincer' - I just learned that one today.)
 
Steven 

@Wishmaster
Thank you very much for your praise, it makes me happy and motivates me.
But I also don't want to miss the opportunity to thank everyone else for the LIKES.
 
Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail - and the main royal sail
Following a tip from a model-building colleague, I was able to find the following in K. H. Marquardt's book "Mastung und Takelung von Schiffen des 18 Jahrhunderts" on the question of the guidance of the main topgallant bowlines and the main royal bowlines:

This is how I interpreted the hidden detail in the image section of the fore cross trees of the La Creole.
Since Marquardt referred to Darcey Lever in his illustration, I did some more research and found this:

In his book "The young sea officer's sheet anchor; or, A key to the leading of rigging, and to practical seamanship" you can read that sometimes the space between the rear trestle trees was filled with a piece of wood in which there were 4 discs. Two for bowlines and two for braces, as long as they came from the front. In the case of the La Creole, however, there would be four bowlines.
Now I will think about how I should design this detail.
 
Unfortunately, I haven't heard back from the museum in Paris yet.
 
Best regards

My main objective today was to fair the hull. This was a fairly painless exercise and did not take too long to complete approx. 90 minutes in total.
 
I started by using my Amati sanding block (loaded with 120-grit sandpaper) on the bulkhead ears. Once I was happy with how they were looking I moved to fairing the mid ship ship sections, using a mixture of my Amati sanding block and Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit).
 
Next I moved on to fairing the stern area. For this I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. This took a bit more time and effort and once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

It was then time to fair the bow area. Once again I used my Infini sanding sticks (100-grit, 150 grit and 220 grit), my thin standing sticks and 120 grit sandpaper. Once completed I was happy that there was full contact with a test plank.

I did smooth the sanded hull using a 400 grit sanding stick.
 
Next I did a quick test fit the prow, keel and stern post and was very happy with how they looked. If I get time later today I will glue them in place as it is now time for my daily afternoon run.

Hull Planking
 
I proceeded with the hull planking as per the instructions. The paper template is crucial for adjusting the position of the sweep ports and gun ports. The height of a few gun ports sills had to be corrected (never more than 1/32") to conform to the template. Some sweep ports were a bit off and this could be taken care of by tracing their exact position using the template. I guess these slight adjustments are unavoidable given all the possible variations in frame construction and positioning. 
 
Adjusting the upper wale height at the bow is a bit tricky. For this I positioned a 1/8" guide as shown here.
With the upper wale position established, I proceeded with the planking. For shaping the planks I used the travel iron and air dryer technique. I used a combination of CA and PVA for gluing. I typically would apply CA to 10 consecutive frames and ten PVA on the following 2-3 frames. The CA glued section is position carefully and once the glue is cured, the PVA glued buffer gives me easy access and time to apply CA glue to the next 10 frames. I found this approach insured that all frames were glued to the plank, avoided CA messes, and minimized the risk of opening gaps at the joints when CA is used at once over the whole length of the plank. 
 

Before planking above the wales, I checked the width of my 7/32" planks. My planks were a hair too thick (0.225" instead of 0.219"). I used my Varitas mini plane to narrow the planks down to the correct width. Slightly thicker planks would have led to complications when planking around the ports and shifted the position of the fancy molding.  I completed the first three rows plus part of the fourth. 
 


 A milestone has been reached. It is now time to remove the jig! 

Hi drftrman,
Cruizer was my first ship model a long time ago. Don't worry about the bulkhead tops,at a later stage of the build when the hull is planked they're cut off. Just lightly tack glue the gunport patterns to them for that reason after fairing. I found that out the hard way. Have fun with your build,plenty advice on the forum,you just have to ask.
 
Dave 
 
 
 
 

Yes, I expected this question.  
In some cases, this griping spar  was attached for storage as I depicted in the model.

I think that in addition to dry and secure storage, they could serve as guard rails. This concerns the boats on the rostra.

Lifeboats and workboats are installed in their designated places.
 
 

Yes, that's right. The boats will be covered from above. 

Continuation: Further blocks in the area of the bowsprit
There was uncertainty about two ropes.
In this context, I then researched the fore topmast staysail stay in detail in the documents available to me.
I included the advice of fellow model makers in my considerations.
So I investigated the possibility of whether a fore topmast staysail stay was rigged on the La Créole. As so often, I found crucial information in the book - The Model of the Brigg Irene - by E. W. Petrejus.
At the beginning of the 19th century, few staysails were set on the stays, but instead were used on staysail stays and preventer stays.
Accordingly, I have come to the conclusion that it was quite possible and probable that a fore topmast staysail stay was rigged on the La Créole and have therefore added the explanations of the image section.

Unfortunately, I have not yet received a response from the restorer at the Paris Marine Museum regarding the bowines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail.
I hope something will come of it.
 
See you then...

I adjusted the controls on my ropewalk and started winding the ropes. I started with the weaker ones, which are easier to wind, but there are a few more of them. The first batch is done.